Recommended Posts

kenmcal    0

Hi all i have a question for the experts. I bought an old TD6 out of a scrap yard(probably should have left it there) for a little over scrap price. The engine is locked up. when I bought it I checked the oil it was not to far over full I pulled all of the spark plugs no rust. So I thought it was just dry rust in the cylinders. But after letting it soak for a few weeks nothing so I pulled the oil plug and about a gallon of water ran out. So my question is do these old buggers have a copper head gasket? if so I will pull the head if not I will give it  more time I have had really good luck with copper head gaskets resealing on old Caterpillars. Just want to see if I can get this old beast running again. Thanks in advance.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

check my post of here and you will see I just re-use the head gasket with a good coat of prematex aviation gasket maker. I don't spend money on my cats because I take them swimming in the winter time. any pictures???

 

KoO

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
kenmcal    0

Thanks KOO  I remember you from ACMOC glad to see your still at it keep up fighting the good fight!

 

Thanks again

Ken

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yes we are still kicking, have not been on the BBs that much because of working a real job, lol

 

KoO

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
kenmcal    0

Good news I just went out this morning and the engine broke free. I guess now we see how badly this old girl wants to live.

 

Ken

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

there will be blow by when you get it running, take it out and pull and drag to work the engine back in to shape and get the rings to seat again. don't wear white clothes because the exhaust stack will be a shower of debris, lol.

 

KoO

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
north of 60    0

I wouldn't be in a real big hurry to start it Ken. I know it is so tempting to do that.

Now that you have it turning over, I would continue to add whatever lubricant you're using into the spark plug holes, and turn it over by hand or with the starter with the selector lever in gasoline mode (less compression), and key in the off position. I would do this a couple times a day for at least a week before you actually try to fire it up. That way you will have given the rings and cylinder walls a chance to clean up somewhat at low rpm. 

I like the 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF fluid for this.

I would also change the oil in the crankcase before you try to fire it up...

Good luck, keep us posted ..

 

Grant 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
sugarmaker    0

Wow, good news that the engine is free. Good luck with your next moves on bringing this machine back to life. Pictures would be good too!:)

Regards,

 Chris

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
kenmcal    0

Thanks Guys good advice there is something wrong with the starter the bendex is not engaging so I pulled the plugs and I have been pushing it around in high gear with a backhoe. Amazingly its starting to build some pretty good compression.I will try to get some pics. Its missing the radiator,carburetor and air cleaner. The radiator and air cleaner are easy I can rig something up its the carb I am worried about. I don't see how this things ran with unregulated air.

 

Thanks again

Ken

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the starter will have the bolt fallen out of the Bendix spring which is normal. as for the f8 carb they should be easy to find in the south since there are no moving parts to wear out like most carbs, lol.

 

KoO

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
kenmcal    0
On 9/1/2017 at 10:12 PM, north of 60 said:

I wouldn't be in a real big hurry to start it Ken. I know it is so tempting to do that.

Now that you have it turning over, I would continue to add whatever lubricant you're using into the spark plug holes, and turn it over by hand or with the starter with the selector lever in gasoline mode (less compression), and key in the off position. I would do this a couple times a day for at least a week before you actually try to fire it up. That way you will have given the rings and cylinder walls a chance to clean up somewhat at low rpm. 

I like the 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF fluid for this.

I would also change the oil in the crankcase before you try to fire it up...

Good luck, keep us posted ..

 

Grant 

I will have to try the acetone next time I use Diesel to cut the ATF I add diesel till it is a light pink and pretty thin I have had really good luck with it. But I think I will give the acetone a try next time Mite work even better Thanks.  And thanks to KoO too your always helpful man.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
kenmcal    0

Ok I have another question. What is the proper oil level in the injector pump? I know it has oil in it but before I start it I would like to know I have it full.

Ken

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
crawlernut    0

Ken, On the injection pump, there is a petcock on the side of the housing. open petcock and fill until oil comes out then close petcock.

IF its been a while since changing, drain old oil and fill as above. Use engine oil. Jim.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
north of 60    0
On ‎06‎/‎09‎/‎2017 at 10:47 AM, crawlernut said:

Ken, On the injection pump, there is a petcock on the side of the housing. open petcock and fill until oil comes out then close petcock.

IF its been a while since changing, drain old oil and fill as above. Use engine oil. Jim.

X2, as Crawlernut suggests, I would drain the old oil from the injection pump and add new. The pump is such a precision and important part you want to keep it in the best possible condition. It's only a few ounces of oil, less than half a quart, so a very good investment for the TD6....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The injector pump should have  a  oil plug level on side and about carburator I should have one on racking if can help.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
kenmcal    0

I may be talking to you about that carb. I think I have it ready to try and start.The starter is still not working. So I think I will try to push start it tomorrow. I am going to try to add a few pics. 

Ken

0909171022.jpg

0909171022a.jpg

0909171023.jpg

0909171023a.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
crawlernut    0

That looks like the area east of Paso RObles. From the hills and wheat/barley crop. Where are you located? Jim.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
north of 60    0

What is your starter doing Ken ?  Is it spinning and the bendix not moving forward into the ring gear ? 

Think you may have to pull the starter, if you haven't yet, to see what is going on with it.

Like KoO said, maybe the bolt that secures the heavy spring has broken off or worked loose. If no obvious broken parts when you pull it out, a bench test will tell you lots.

On my TD9 the bendix was moving forward to the ring gear but not engaging properly. The problem turned out to be someone had put the wrong size bendix gear on the starter before I bought it.

The correct one had 2 more teeth on the gear, and the gear was larger in diameter. As soon as I replaced it with the proper one the starter worked properly...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
kenmcal    0

Crawlernut located in South East Idaho about 30 miles from Wyoming and 30 miles from Utah.

 

North of 60 I wonder if the bendex is wrong one on mine as well I bench tested it when I had it off  freeing up the engine the bendex was moving and the starter spun up fine so I didn't load test it but the starter just spins like it's ether not engaging the ring gear at all or it is completely shot. The starter couldn't be spinning backward could it? The ring gear looked good I turned the engine over several times wit a bar so I got a good look at it. I changed the oil in the injector pump and tried to push start the old girl she popped a few time but I had the firing order off. I am sure it will run on the gas side now. I had the bleeder screws backed off and the throttle open on the diesel side it looks like #4 started pumping a little fuel. The injector pump oil looked to have Diesel in it though when I drained it. I think there was diesel in the crank case as well. so any advice is welcome.

Thanks again

Ken

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
north of 60    0

Someone on here with a TD6 starter should be able to tell you how many teeth should be on your bendix gear and the diameter of it. If you have a repair manual it should tell you as well. I'll check my manuals to see if they cover TD6 starter specs..

Not quite sure about the starter spinning in reverse.. someone on here with more electrical knowledge than me will know if that is possible, if you have positive vs negative grounded battery.

I think your TD6 probably had a positive ground from the factory, depending on the year it was built ? And your engine rotation is counter clockwise when looking from the drivers seat ?

These are a bit hard to start on the diesel side only, I would always recommend working on the gas side so it will start and run.

So much easier to start the diesel side once you have the gas side running.

Grant

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
crawlernut    0

Ken, On the  diesel in the pump, sounds like the seal on the primary pump is bad. It will allow fuel to enter the pump main housing. If the drive seal on the front of the pump also leaks, it will leak the overfilled diesel down inside the front cover and into the engine crankcase. diluting the engine oil. This is a somewhat common problem with these pumps and the seals have become hard to get. In the last couple of weeks, someone posted some places that still sell the seal kits, or a conversion kit that will work. 

If you have the timing and gas ready to start the engine, you can crack the fuel throttle while it runs on gas and bleed the injectors at the same time. While it runs on gas, check the pump fuel pressure gauge on the pump to make sure it has enough pressure to fire it off once you switch over to diesel cycle. Jim.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
kenmcal    0

Well good news and bad news after a few more adjustments it fired up and ran on gas,at least long enough to build some heat in the engine. It quit smoking after it burnt the oil out of the exhaust manifold. But the diesel lift pump is shot. I will try putting a little air pressure in the tank and see if I can push the fuel up and get it bleed out and switched to diesel. I think there is fuel in the injector pump again but i am not sure( I will just keep changing the oil until I get it figured out). I may try putting an electric fuel pump on it to test run it. If it runs good and the steering clutches work I may spend some money on it. I know the left clutch works I used it to steer it when I loaded it. Its slowly coming back to life.

Ken

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
crawlernut    0
On 9/11/2017 at 9:03 PM, kenmcal said:

Crawlernut located in South East Idaho about 30 miles from Wyoming and 30 miles from Utah.

Ken, Just had my neighbors move to Driggs, Idaho. Is that near to you?

North of 60 I wonder if the bendex is wrong one on mine as well I bench tested it when I had it off  freeing up the engine the bendex was moving and the starter spun up fine so I didn't load test it but the starter just spins like it's ether not engaging the ring gear at all or it is completely shot. The starter couldn't be spinning backward could it? The ring gear looked good I turned the engine over several times wit a bar so I got a good look at it. I changed the oil in the injector pump and tried to push start the old girl she popped a few time but I had the firing order off. I am sure it will run on the gas side now. I had the bleeder screws backed off and the throttle open on the diesel side it looks like #4 started pumping a little fuel. The injector pump oil looked to have Diesel in it though when I drained it. I think there was diesel in the crank case as well. so any advice is welcome.

Thanks again

Ken

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
north of 60    0
21 hours ago, kenmcal said:

Well good news and bad news after a few more adjustments it fired up and ran on gas,at least long enough to build some heat in the engine. It quit smoking after it burnt the oil out of the exhaust manifold. But the diesel lift pump is shot. I will try putting a little air pressure in the tank and see if I can push the fuel up and get it bleed out and switched to diesel. I think there is fuel in the injector pump again but i am not sure( I will just keep changing the oil until I get it figured out). I may try putting an electric fuel pump on it to test run it. If it runs good and the steering clutches work I may spend some money on it. I know the left clutch works I used it to steer it when I loaded it. Its slowly coming back to life.

Ken

Sounds like progress to me Ken.

Confirm you have fuel right through to the pump by cracking the line connections right up to the pump.

Could be as simple as a blockage preventing the diesel from getting to the pump, or shut off valve not open ? Do you have a fuel pressure gauge on the pump or elsewhere on the TD6 ?   

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
JamesW    0

Which Injector pump Ken?

The transfer pump may be sticky?

The fuel tank should be high enough to give you a gravity bleed with a full tank... no need for compressed air.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now