larbear

hooking up to remotes

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I want to hook up my 310, 706 diesel to the haybine. I can't get one of the hoses from the haybine to go all the way into the remote. I've worked the remote lever in the tractor back and forth and have switched the hoses, one will go in properly and the hose that would allow the haybine to lower won't go in all the way. I had a bit of this difficulty last fall in hooking up to disks, though eventually I was able to make the connection. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

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Tractor shut off and mower sitting on the cylinder lock  or on the ground to eliminate as much pressure as possible.  And you pressed the hoses against something, don't spray yourself, to drain  any pressure in them.  You can get the hoses both to go into One of the holes in the tractor (right? eliminating a bad hose tip on the mower) .  I'd start with new tips on the mowers hoses anyway.  The Round ball tip style, not the little nipple style.   If that's a no go, then you replace the outlets on the tractor. Who wants to fight hoses  every time you hook up. 

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Sounds like pressure is in the hose you are trying to hook up therefore preventing it from opening and hooking up the whole way

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Yea, I would think that the ram on the haybine would want to go down. They are the original pioneer ends that have always been on, I switched the outlets on the tractor to pioneer as well.As I said I had this issue with hooking up to a set of disks last fall, though eventually I was able to make the hookup. The 706 would not raise the disks though, a set of 18 ft IH disks. Weak hitch pump? Though the three point hitch will easily and readily raise a 5x5 round hay bale. There is a valve under the seat relevant to the remotes, I believe. Could that be part of the issue? Thanks.

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My 806 wouldn't raise my disc either. I replaced the relief valve on right side of seat support casting with a 2,400lb valve for a 1066. Now it raises it at idle no problem 

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I wonder that if that valve is sticking or needing some attention, could it be that the tractor side of the hook up is holding pressure that isn't being released and is why the hose end will not go in all the way. I'm sure that if I hook these hoses up to  my fordson major, that the hook up would be no problem. I like this 706, but it is a bit worn and is somewhat complicated. I wanted it for the 1000 rpm pto and the Gehl baler I have use of. I rebuilt the pto and still have some shifting issues, but a 706 310 diesel with a year round cab is a rather nice unit provided I don't turn it into  a bucket of bolts. Thank you for the responses.

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Take two wrenches and break the connection on one side, try it, then the other side. When you get a connection you are on the right path.

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The relief valve I mentioned will only fix the weak lifting problem it has no effect on the coupler problem. 

A new set of female pioneer couplers is only about $30 and it will more than likely fix your issues. 

One "trick" I use is when unhooking I shut of tractor and work lever back and forth to relieve all pressure. Usually makes unhooking and rehooking effortless. 

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 As noted above, release all pressure first.  If both hoses will go into one coupler, but not the other--you need to replace that coupler.   Sometimes you just get a bad coupler or tip, that makes connection difficult.  best thing to do is spend money to replace it, before endangering your afterlife experience..... 

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When you parked the haybine last time, did you set  the transport locks and float the hydraulic valve before disconnecting, or did you just yank the hoses out?

Since it's the hose that lowers the haybine, it is most likely got pressure on it. You need to support the haybine and CAREFULLY loosen the coupler from the end of the hose to relieve the pressure. CAREFUL because hydraulic oil will SPRAY because it's under pressure.

You have to leave it loose until the oil stops spraying, and if the haybine is all the way up and unsupported, it will be a LOT of oil because the haybine will have to lower all the way to the ground before the pressure will be relieved.

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Thanks for the advice, all good, and gives me direction. I will be at it later but I better get to making a few dollars today, thanks again.

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The symptoms you describe could also be the result of a female coupling locking ring not working freely. When you push the hose in as far as possible, you may be actually opening both valves, but if nothing grabs the hose coupler it can give the impression of hydraulic pressure holding one of the valves shut. All it takes for this malfunction is a small burr / deformity on the female coupling body for the lock ring to get caught on. I fixed mine by removing the assembly from the tractor, disassembling the body and chucked it up in a lathe. Put a little valve grinding compound in the lock ring and lap the lock ring to the body until smooth action returns.

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