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IHCfarmer

IH 2400 round baler

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Ok maybe I did something stupid last summer got myself a 2400 baler I have made some bales with it and don't like doing hay with it like the one guy told me need the dual spring setup to make tight bales!! But that said I did go out late last fall and make some cornstalk bales with it worked great! But I broke one of the wide outside belts that day and didn't make enough bales. So this last week I went out and cut and raked up some more stalks and went out to make bales and guess what now it won't work!! It wont start the stalks rolling it will stuff the area behind the  compression roller all the roller will push in and then it plugs up!! What do I need to do to make it work? I like the simplicity of this baler and for the 100 bales I need it's just what I want just need to get it working help please

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Depending on the baler corn stalks can be a pain. Too dry, too wet, too windy too anything some days. Dont know anything about your baler myself but would look and make sure belt is routed right( shot muself in the foot a few times on my jd 510) make sure nothing is broken and all is turning, moving as it should....if you can find nothing wrong with baler its self your back to the first things i mentioned i would guess.

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Dad bought an IH 241 round baler new and we ran it for over 20 years.  I think it works about the same as the 2400 and most other balers in the 70s.  When my 241 baler would not start a bale it was usually a bearing out somewhere (typically one of the smaller roller bearings).  Thx-Ace

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Conditions can make a big difference a little damp can help a little too damp and it's plug and cuss time. I'm biased but I would suggest a yellow baler if you can. We ran a super F Vermeer for 20 years they are getting cheap less than $1000. makes nice big bales no net but use plastic twine on the stalk bales and you're good. 

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What about new belts would that make a difference?? I am going to pull it out and check the bearings and see if one is out. I used sisel twine on the few bales I made and it worked ok  tying was not the problem. Thanks for the tips!!

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You used sisel on corn stalk bales? 😳 

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Tire carcass press roller is a must if you want to bale up corn stalks.  

You can put new belts on if you want, but $1000+ worth of belts still don't make it bale any better.

Dual spring setup is a must, otherwise you'd just as well have the Amish pile the hay with pitchforks.
 

Plenty of those balers out there set up correctly.  I have two of them....

Travis

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Ok got the tire carcass roller

did some cornstalk the Amish pile works till I can get

the duel spring setup but planing on the upgrade any other ideas?

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Sisal twine will most likely rot by middle of winter or freeze to ground and break easier than plastic twine when you pick it up. Once that happens your cornstalk bale will fall apart and look like afore mentioned amish pile......wont be as bad if your using a fork instead of a stabber but still not good.

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Make sure bottom belt is turning, try opening the end gate a bit to get the belts started turning have a duel spring 2400 that Dad and uncles bought new and make between 1350-1600# bales and makes almost 400 bales a year ,slow going but has paid for itself many times. It has 10,000 bales on it now. maybe if what I said won't work try some hay in it too. PM me if need more info.

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I have a 2400 that works ok although I wish it was a modern baler

 The previous owner was a millwright and said he always had trouble with starting a bale esp when extremely dry and the chaff and dust fell on the drive roller. So he went to work and made up a drive system that goes up to the top roller as well . He did a very nice job on it and it starts a bale very well

DSCI1745_zpsekgi4mih.jpg

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DSCI1711_zpsfcio7sjt.jpg

 

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 Do the rubber drive rollers have enough rubber on them for traction?

We had one where the rubber was all most worn off  and was hard to start a bale.  I used some industrial grade duct tape as

a temporary fix. It last 50-75 bales but got the job done that day.

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What there is NO rubber on any rollers but for the carcass tire roller the stuffs the material into the baler!! Must be mine baler had made a crap ton of bales no rubber at all anywhere on the belt driving rollers that I can see. What did you do after the duck tape fix to put rubber back on your rollers??  

Hillman

that is a nice looking 2400 baler looks like the guy did a  Beautiful job adding power to that top roller to drive it! Have you ever made cornstalk bales with yours?

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nope, just hay

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Did they all have rubber on the rollers? Did all stuffer rollers have rubber as well or did some come all metal for any reason?

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On my dual spring 2400 it just had rubber on the roller that drives the belts. I have baled corn stalks with mine but with all the 4" belts still on I have trouble with belt twisting so mine just does hay. Here are some pics of our balers if I can upload them. Nope can't get them up how do you downsize pictures to get them on here??????

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What kind of  duck tape did you use 

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I got it at the local elevator. It's 4 inches wide. 25 bucks a roll. Don't remember the brand

The tape goes on quicker if you take the chain off and have some turn the roller for you. Make 4 or 5 wraps.

When the duct tape wears off there are three choices. 

1  more duct tape.

2  new rubber roller

3  trade balers, let some one else put the new roller on. I traded for an CaseIH 8460.

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Problem is I like the baler it's  cheap for what I need to do.  And I'm sure  you cannot get the  roller  Anymore don't know if  someone could put rubber back on the  Old roller? Good idea with the ducktape I'm gonna try that!

 If I have too new belts 

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I would check on roller before i wright it off. Then would check after market for roller or someone to put new rubber on. There more than likely is someone who does that.

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I think you're barking up the wrong tree....

Do you have your upper belt tension set correctly?

I've baled cornstalks and even bean stubble with mine and never had trouble. and the only roller with rubber on it is the tire carcass press roller.

Travis

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How  do you check the tension ?

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14 minutes ago, IHCfarmer said:

How  do you check the tension ?

Okay...if you're dead-set on running a 241, please, please, PLEASE go buy yourself an owners manual. It tells you stuff like this.

There are three positions to adjust the upper belt tension.  If i remember correctly, corn stalks needs to have it adjusted towards the top, straw is best at the bottom, and normal conditions are in the middle.

Also, belt length makes a big difference in how well your baler works....too long and you'll have problems like you describe.  

Travis

 

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Ok got the owners manual and the services manual but it's hard to read as it is just a copy I get how you set the stoppers by the springs but where do you set your rear gate stops? And it  does say something about the upper belt drive roller being rubber??

thanks

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I've never worried about the rear gate stops, just make damn sure your rear gate has the cross braces to keep it straight, and as long as the rear gate is straight, don't mess with them.

Like I said, only rubber on any of my rollers is on the press roller....

 

Travis

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