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Honesthill

Question about magnum

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I looked at a 7130 today. Looked very clean, very good rubber and 6200 hours. Seller said that after running for a while the transmission temp light would come on and it would shut down. He said that with the three point hitch arms raised it would do this but if he lowered them it would not overheat. I know nothing about them, newest I have are 88's. Looking for opinions on this. 

He also said he was told it needed a new accumulator?

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Are the hydraulics laboring with the 3pt all the way up? The accumulators can be taken off and driven to the dealership to be recharged. Want to get an aftermarket replacement ( hycapacity iirc ) 

Great tractors. We have 7. Averaging above 11,000 hours amongst the bunch of them

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They did not sound like they were laboring   to me. He said that when they were raised all the way the hydraulics were at high pressure

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11 minutes ago, Honesthill said:

They did not sound like they were laboring   to me. He said that when they were raised all the way the hydraulics were at high pressure

I'm not as familiar with the controls on our 7140 but on the other ones they have a upper limit adjustment. You turn a dial as to how high you want it to come up.

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Is there anything else that would cause the transmission to get hot and shut the tractor down? The price seems reasonable but not if there is going to thousands of dollars in repairs. 

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8 minutes ago, Honesthill said:

Is there anything else that would cause the transmission to get hot and shut the tractor down? The price seems reasonable but not if there is going to thousands of dollars in repairs. 

May have to clean out the hyd oil cooler in front of the radiator. One of ours would do that same thing and after pressure washing everything out it was fine.

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Fan clutch could be bad too.

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i'll second Jass1660 our 7120 did that while running a hydraulic pump for the sprayer blew the rad out and also check the breather at the back on top of the rear end mine was plugged right solid I believe that is what caused most of the problem no cooler air goin into it

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If you are going to look at it , see if the hitch will stay up. If it leaks down the system will keep supplying the hitch fluid to keep it up and if there is a load on hitch the pressure will be equal to  what it takes to maintain hitch height. That could  cause overheating of  system.  If hitch stays up but system is on demand with hitch all the way up the system will stay on high pressure standby but that should not cause overheating.  That would require adjustment or repair of hitch controls.

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Pete could the screen and or filter be dirty?  Heck the light may be bad.  There is a override switch to test things so it wont kill the engine on the dash.  Bring a temp gun to see how hot the oil actually is.  Sounds like a good tractor.  I would bet its not some thing major with those hours.  Bad accumulator make it shift sloppy, you'll know when you shift.  Or bang hard.  Proper psi will make a nice clean crisp shift.  There are 2 and a dealer would have the chart to set the N psi.  It makes a dif if they are set proper.  Also smell the oil in the trans.  Burnt?  Brown? Cloudy?  Would low oil cause heat from cavitation?

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8 hours ago, Honesthill said:

I looked at a 7130 today. Looked very clean, very good rubber and 6200 hours. Seller said that after running for a while the transmission temp light would come on and it would shut down. He said that with the three point hitch arms raised it would do this but if he lowered them it would not overheat. I know nothing about them, newest I have are 88's. Looking for opinions on this. 

He also said he was told it needed a new accumulator?

 

7 hours ago, Honesthill said:

They did not sound like they were laboring   to me. He said that when they were raised all the way the hydraulics were at high pressure

When you look at it, raise the hitch all the way, see if there is any upward travel left in the rockshaft. The arms should be about parallel to the back side of the fuel tank. If the hitch is staying on pressure it is a simple adjustment at the rockshaft potentiometer to correct the problem.

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30 minutes ago, Maynard said:

 

When you look at it, raise the hitch all the way, see if there is any upward travel left in the rockshaft. The arms should be about parallel to the back side of the fuel tank. If the hitch is staying on pressure it is a simple adjustment at the rockshaft potentiometer to correct the problem.

This is the problem when my 7130 did the same thing a few years back.  Dealer made a simple adjustment to the potentiometer and has worked fine ever since.  It is also important that you keep it clean between the radiator and the oil cooler.  It will look clean at a glance but they have a tendency to plug and it is not very easy to clean. Engineering failed to make it so you could open that area up to clean out.

jerry 

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Thanks guys! You have gave me a lot of advice and things to check out. Will let you know what I find out. Can they be any harder to clean out than the 88 series?

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I made a copper pipe to blow out our radiators on 88 series. 

Took 4' piece of 1/2" copper, soldered cap on one end and threaded fitting on other for air fitting. Than I took a hammer and flattened the whole thing out so it was real thin but not smashed solid. Than I drilled a 1/8" hole all the way through the cap on the end. You can stick it in between those close radiators and with it blowing out both holes in opposite directions it's very controllable. 

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The hitch staying up all the way with the hydraulics on high pressure standby is a more immediate problem. Seen more than one top cover/rockshaft cover break the casting due to this. The internal hitch cylinder will keep pushing against the underside of the cover until something breaks. That casting was over $4K the last time we replaced one years ago due to this problem. With the hitch all the way up, you should be able to lift the lower links an 1" or so above what the hitch maximum height is with the hitch controls(think of it as 1" of free travel or free play above the hitch's maximum height).

If this is an earlier Magnum with just 1 hydraulic filter, I could see a misadjusted hitch causing high hydraulic oil temperature. This was just one of the many reasons why they went to the improved flow hydraulic system after tractor serial # JJA0027701. The older Magnums had just one hydraulic pump sending 12GPM to the cooler; the later ones(with the 2 hydraulic filter system) had up to 64 GPM of oil flow to the cooler-which made a huge difference in cooling. The older Magnums running on high-pressure standby would heat the oil up pretty quickly.

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