Martin SA

Case 5140 Maxxum - Fed up with its problems

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Morning guys, hope you all doing well. I am in desperate need of some advice, i bought this tractor about 4-5 months ago it seemed to be fine but when we started ploughing the issues started 

1) The lift lifted the plough and lowered it with no problem but when the command switch is in neutral the plough lowers, it didn't worry us to much at that time but when start ploughing the depth management was not working at all, all the settings were correct. We checked everything and  used the manual to do some fault finding, ending up adjusting the center spool as per the manual , now it doesnt lower in neutral position but now it  doesn't want to lower when you put the command switch in fast lower position or work position, we tested the lowering selenoid there is power on it we even remove it and tested it it works fine but still would not lower the plough, we notice the following, when the switch is in fast lowering position there is power on the lowering selenoid and when you put it in working position there is power on both the lowering and raising selenoids, is this correct? And then when you put it in raise position only the raise selenoid have power.

We ended up adjusting the centering spool again, now when the command switch is in neutral it lowers but when you put it in fast lower position and work position it stops lowering, but it raise fine when you put it in raise position. We managed to plough a piece of land like this but it is not ideal, this is when we noticed problem no 2.

 

2) When you make sharp turns at the end of the field the tractor would just jump out of gear, sometimes when you press the clutch it will go sometimes not, then you have to put it in a other gear and will work again this happend more then 20 times ploughing a small piece of land.

The rest of hydraulics is working fine we used it to disc and plant with no problems 

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if one that new is like the 5130  

you have a bad switch under dash at clutch pedal  (rubs contact on bumps) or another on that circuit they can be a pain to find without test manual

the hitch issue  .....   there are very sensitive set screws behind lower 3pt arms must be set + - per manual

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A couple things come to mind, on the hitch first thing I would do is raise it up with a load on it then support it with hoist or other means. Identify the hitch raise line goes across left upper hitch arm and down side of hitch housing where it connects at bottom. With load supported disconnect line and cap it off with steel caps then relax support to allow weight back unto hitch. Hitch should hold the weight (700-1000 lbs) with no problem and you should not measure any drop, if you do the hitch piston seals are bad or an overload relief valve (inside hitch housing) if not then you are dealing with control side of hitch. 

When adjusting the hitches on this series tractors it is very important to start at the beginning and follow thru using a OEM service manual. To me it sounds like the hitch centering valve was not out of adjustment, but when adjusted to favor the raise side it is compensating for a leak but then will lower slowly / or not at all. 

Locate the large diameter line that leaves your hydraulic pump and goes to remote valve, then just in front of where this line connects to hydraulic pump you will find a test port. Get a 3000+ psi gauge in this port, with oil at operating temperature (125+F) start the tractor, set engine to 1500 RPM's, with no hydraulic function demanded you should have a gauge reading between 4-600 psi closer to 600 is best. Turn steering to lock and hold it there gauge should go to 2400 psi. Relax steering and dead head a remote (nothing in coupler) gauge should read 2700 psi or 300 psi greater than steering. Example steering at 2500 then remote should be 2800. If pressure limiters for steering or hitch / remote circuit are out of adjustment it will have effect on the pump compensator and pump pressure will drop to "0" this pump also supplies the regulated circuit which in turn supplies the powershift valve, when you rapid steer pump pressure drops and safety switches in powershift controller disengage transmission. 

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Thanks CIHTECH

I will do the tests thanks for the advice, please see attach photos i have taken this morning, i noticed that the hole next to the lowering selenoid looks like they plugged it, and find a hose that is blanked off and tied away behind other hoses, looks like it is going the same direction as the pipes for the power steering.IMG_1082.JPGIMG_1083.JPG

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After looking at the picture, the plug beside the lower solenoid is what is left of the third solenoid used for rear fender hitch controls. We did not have this option in North America until the 5200 series however I was aware that it was used in the Euro market on the 5100 series. As far as the hose blanked off and going forward, it possibly goes to the front 3pt lift cylinder. Trace the hose and see were it goes. 

The wires at the lower solenoid almost look to have a bad connection / melted grommet, the solenoid should test around 7-10 ohm's across the coil. 

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Hi CIHTECH

Thanks for the reply, i have taken out the plug next to the lower selenoid, there is no selenoid just a home made plug i guess it was damaged and removed, i also have found 2 wires at the harness that taped off with isolation tape will test them to make sure they are from the fender controls, is it possible that the missing selenoid could be the reason that the hitch is not working properly? 

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Quote

As far as the hose blanked off and going forward, it possibly goes to the front 3pt lift cylinder. Trace the hose and see were it goes.

As late as the MX Maxxum the front hitch was simply plugged into the #3 remote outlet, from the factory.

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8 hours ago, Martin SA said:

is it possible that the missing selenoid could be the reason that the hitch is not working properly? 

It would be possible that could cause a problem, would not be able to verify without further study of hydraulic schematics. The cartridge of solenoid spool valve would surely block some internal porting and then when energized open said porting in valve body. Have you traced out the blanked hose...would be curious where it goes. 

 

6 hours ago, Gearclash said:

As late as the MX Maxxum the front hitch was simply plugged into the #3 remote outlet, from the factory.

That is interesting, never been around one with front hitch. I guess never thought of where front hitch would have been controlled from. 

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8 hours ago, CIHTECH said:

That is interesting, never been around one with front hitch. I guess never thought of where front hitch would have been controlled from. 

It seems kind of crude but that's how they did it.  I installed a NOS Genuine CIH front hitch on my MX170 a few years back.  The kit includes all the lines to go to the back of the tractor.  Because my tractor has a loader with mid mount hydraulics on a power beyond circuit, I opted to use the loader control to run the front hitch.  Also, the main application for the front hitch already tied up all three remotes.

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