texgyrene

D282 in 706 to Cummins 5.9B?

42 posts in this topic

If you get a manifold off a Cummins powered tractor ,you need not worry.i used the truck turbo.and she barks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, cwinn said:

If you get a manifold off a Cummins powered tractor ,you need not worry.i used the truck turbo.and she barks.

cwinn- Thank you for the tip! I checked the 806 with the 361 I mentioned in a previous post. Too much was wrong with it. Blowby was bad. Hydraulic pump was weak. Weathered terribly. Never seen the inside of a barn. I cannot find any knowledgeable source where I live that can tell me if I should use an engine that is industrial, on road, or off road. I want a 4B that is naturally aspirated. I can't use a turbo due my front end loader being in the way.And, I am avoiding the turbo due to the ECM and it's wiring, and sensors, plus the gauges to monitor it. I'll use water temp,and oil pressure, and amp gauge to gauge performance. Do you have any recommendations as to industrial, off road, or on road?  I really appreciate your help and knowledge in helping me out on this project . Thank you again!   texgyrene

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would go for an offroad / industrial version to get the right governor in the injection pump. If you are going to using the tractor for stationary pto with changing loads, (think generator or forage blower) the speed droop will be unacceptable as engine will fall on its face. If you find an automotive version with a Bosch VE pump it is fairly easy to change the main governor spring to the ind / ag "404" spring. If CAV DPA pump location of governor spring can be changed for better performance. If pump is Bosch inline with RQV governor it will get expensive to change over. 

If you go with a 4B or BT make sure you get one with a crankshaft balancer or it will eat anything like filaments in lights, gauges and sheet metal. I would also use a turbo charged version, there are lots of exhaust manifold options to tuck the turbo up in over top of engine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Why do you insist on a 4 cylinder?Find a 6cyl out of a Dodge ,case loader,dozer,roller,etc.Mine is a Ve pumped engine out of a 96 Dodge.paid $1000 bucks for it.My exhaust parts are all off a Case 1896 tractor with a 5.9 Cummins.You can use one off a 5250 Maxxum it just will put your exhaust in a different spot.Mine is hooked to the factory air box and lines up with the hole in hood.Hood is justed drilled in rear .Save the piece and Tig it back in hood.All my hoses are from wrecked trucks. Or the 1896 case .But you can go to silicone boost hoses.com I think, or summit racing and buy any hose you want.Turbo clamps are all off school buses with dt466 that were in junk yard.The front acsecory drive has to be off a tractor also to line up in radiator .Mine came from salvage yard.This job is challenging the first time .IF,you want it to look professional.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
16 hours ago, CIHTECH said:

I would go for an offroad / industrial version to get the right governor in the injection pump. If you are going to using the tractor for stationary pto with changing loads, (think generator or forage blower) the speed droop will be unacceptable as engine will fall on its face. If you find an automotive version with a Bosch VE pump it is fairly easy to change the main governor spring to the ind / ag "404" spring. If CAV DPA pump location of governor spring can be changed for better performance. If pump is Bosch inline with RQV governor it will get expensive to change over. 

If you go with a 4B or BT make sure you get one with a crankshaft balancer or it will eat anything like filaments in lights, gauges and sheet metal. I would also use a turbo charged version, there are lots of exhaust manifold options to tuck the turbo up in over top of engine.

CIHTECH- I sure I am glad you are on this site! Thanks for all the knowledge! The only thing the PTO would be working is a mist sprayer for pecan trees, 8 ft. shredder, or a post pole digger. My bro-in-law does my baling. Would the 4B hold up for those functions? I can check again about the fit of a 4BT with my front end loader as I have been told that it would interfere with the rear arms movement of the Allied 595 model loader if a side mount turbo is used. I have also been advised that the height of a top mount turbo would interfere with the hood sheet metal of the 706D. The engine that is in the 706 is a 282 D that I am tired of screwing with. It has a great future as a boat anchor. Again, thank you for all the info you passed on to me. Please don't get annoyed if I lean on you for more guidance in the transplant I am attempting. I live in the weeds of central Texas and most of the tractor mechanics have never heard of anything like this transplant, hence all the knowledge I find comes from the internet. Again. thank you

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, cwinn said:

Why do you insist on a 4 cylinder?Find a 6cyl out of a Dodge ,case loader,dozer,roller,etc.Mine is a Ve pumped engine out of a 96 Dodge.paid $1000 bucks for it.My exhaust parts are all off a Case 1896 tractor with a 5.9 Cummins.You can use one off a 5250 Maxxum it just will put your exhaust in a different spot.Mine is hooked to the factory air box and lines up with the hole in hood.Hood is justed drilled in rear .Save the piece and Tig it back in hood.All my hoses are from wrecked trucks. Or the 1896 case .But you can go to silicone boost hoses.com I think, or summit racing and buy any hose you want.Turbo clamps are all off school buses with dt466 that were in junk yard.The front acsecory drive has to be off a tractor also to line up in radiator .Mine came from salvage yard.This job is challenging the first time .IF,you want it to look professional.

 

4 hours ago, cwinn said:

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

cwinn- Good to hear from you again! Did the 5.9 you installed go into a 706D  with the 282? I was told that if I wanted a 5.9 I would have to get frame rails off an 806D for the length to fit the 5.9  as the 706D rails are too short. Is that the case?  Let me know.  Your ideas on sourcing ancillary parts for the build are money savers. Thanks! I am looking forward to hearing from you again

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 Just cut the rails in a power hacksaw,figure out length,add in a piece of channel iron.polish welds with a polishing wheel .Just like new.or those can be bought out of junk for $100 bucks .My tractor is a 756 gas.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, cwinn said:

 Just cut the rails in a power hacksaw,figure out length,add in a piece of channel iron.polish welds with a polishing wheel .Just like new.or those can be bought out of junk for $100 bucks .My tractor is a 756 gas.

756 is the same length as the German diesel 706

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, bitty said:

756 is the same length as the German diesel 706

Yes it is.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 1/14/2017 at 0:36 PM, cwinn said:

 Just cut the rails in a power hacksaw,figure out length,add in a piece of channel iron.polish welds with a polishing wheel .Just like new.or those can be bought out of junk for $100 bucks .My tractor is a 756 gas.

cwinn- Thanks for the idea on piecing out the frame rails! Good thing people like you are on this site. That idea leans me back to a 5.9., instead of the 3.9. Cummins. I measured the frame rails on an 806D and they came in at 49.5 inches that I looked at the other day. My 706D is 46.5 inches. The 3 inches I lack will be a snap to do. I'm certainly thankful you put me on to this fix. Thanks again.    texgyrene

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 1/14/2017 at 7:11 PM, bitty said:

756 is the same length as the German diesel 706

bitty- Thanks for your reply as to frame rail length. It increases the knowledge I need to get this transplant going. Funny thing where I live is that guys I know that run the German diesel are holding on to them for dear life and if they decide to part with them they want a fortune or your first born son as an indentured servant. Again, thanks for the info!  texgyrene

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Keep measuring and looking at tractors.That's all I did .lol.For  about a year before I started. Lol.good luck.Feel free to stay in touch. You'll get her done.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
17 hours ago, cwinn said:

Keep measuring and looking at tractors.That's all I did .lol.For  about a year before I started. Lol.good luck.Feel free to stay in touch. You'll get her done.

cwinn-  I cannot adequately thank all the people on this site for the advice and insight I have been given to get this transplant going. I deeply appreciate it.  Big Red will have a new life thanks to guys like you who are blazing the trail for dummies like me. Again, thank you and I will be on this site again when I run into a roadblock I can't figure out. As I have always said, I'm not the brightest bulb on the tree, but, I can always find people brighter than me. Thanks again for the knowledge and encouragement to see this project through. texgyrene

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No problem we will help ya thru it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have 11,000$ in a complete rebuild for my 282 can't complain really being it has 14,000+ hour's but if it ever goes again I'd be looking into a 5.9. leaman makes adapter plates that bolt um right up then just figure out frame rails and  make the hoods fit 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, taylor1566 said:

I have 11,000$ in a complete rebuild for my 282 can't complain really being it has 14,000+ hour's but if it ever goes again I'd be looking into a 5.9. leaman makes adapter plates that bolt um right up then just figure out frame rails and  make the hoods fit 

taylor1566- I believe I am done with my D282. Another guy came to check it out. Bad news for home team. Onward to the 5.9. Checking on frame rails off an 806. cwinn put me on to a piece out solution which I can do. Great Idea if I can't find any factory rails. The guy that checked the 282D the other day came in at the money you are talking about, but offered a 30 day warranty. I didn't bite. I kinda like the reliability and easy starting of the 5.9, and since the adapter and all components to swap are available, I'm thinking with all the the implements I have for the 706, I just can't turn it loose considering what I have in it. As far as sheet metal is concerned, I just might be the only guy in this county with a custom ram air hood on a tractor. Time will tell the tale. Thanks for your input on this project of mine!   texgyrene

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now