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On 9/2/2016 at 4:04 PM, TomH said:

Try Bates Corp.   Example :

 

 
New Parts

 

***NEW*** 5.08" long, 1.38" head diameter Exhaust Valve. 4 used per engine. For distillate engines on H, Super H, O4, W4.

 

 
Inventory On Hand: 76 item(s)
Quantity to order:

Thank you Tom H!  I'm hoping they restock the intake as well in the near future as I am missing both.  Never thought of looking at Bates to be honest, total forgot about those guys.  

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thanks for sharing your work, enjoying it very much.

I learn so much from posts like this.

Mark

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OK, been thinking about the items left on the list to get my motor buttoned up for the H and I keep staring at the oil pump.  I plan on getting a new relief spring and check ball(if available) checking the run out on the bearings and giving the body a bath in mineral spirits to start but is there any thing else?  I saw one guy that milled or ground the cover plate flat for better seal or pressure?  Any one have some thoughts or experience on this?

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Sorry Doug in NY, no updates just yet.  My work schedule is rough to say the least so things have been at a bit of a stand still.  I have a week off after I get out on Friday so hopefully I can get a day in some where.  There is a pile of parts at the farm so I really need to get some work done if the weather permits.  I will try and get some more progress pics if I get out there to it, I have a few short video's but nothing that is really that exciting.  

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I know some others are saying not to trim the seal but I do know when I did mine it had to be trimmed. There was absolutely NO WAY it was going to all fit and in fact Steiner, where I bought my seal, says to trim them and talks about having just the right amount of extra. It's in their video series. Once I did it the way they showed I had it together and no leaks since. That has been three years now. 

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I rolled as much as I could into the two halves with a socket with the seal dry

I then trimmed the ends flush with a razor blade, liberally oiled the felt on both halves and bolted together.

This was 10 years ago and no leaks.

Will try to get the book out and see how IH says to do it.

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On 10/29/2016 at 9:39 PM, Diesel Doctor said:

I rolled as much as I could into the two halves with a socket with the seal dry

I then trimmed the ends flush with a razor blade, liberally oiled the felt on both halves and bolted together.

This was 10 years ago and no leaks.

Will try to get the book out and see how IH says to do it.

I've heard both stories now and I can see logic in both ways and here is my thought on the issue as this point.  It would stand to reason that the the ends of the seal that stick out of the upper and lower half of the holder should not combine in length to be any longer than the amount of sticking out of the middle of the holder.  So, for instance if there is a quarter of an inch sticking up in the middle of the holder than I would expect there to be an eighth of an inch sticking out of the ends of the holder, right?  That would give me a quarter of an inch all the way around it would seem.  I will keep researching the issue but as of yet I have found no references in the book to lead me in any direction which makes me think that this was or used to be common engine 101 back in the day.  

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Here is what Fel-Pro gasket has to say about the felt rear main seal.  So, take it for what it's worth and tell me what you guys think about this:

 

Hi Brian,

After some searching (we don't have a service manual for this application on-hand) we have determined it would be best to treat this seal like a rope RMB seal. 

Install the RMB seal into the block after soaking it in oil. Rope seals have graphite in them for lubricity while felt does not, so that’s why we suggest soaking the felt in oil. Install the seal into the block cavity first and use a large socket (3/4” or larger) to roll the seal into the groove. Install the crankshaft & carefully trim the seal so it sticks up past the block edge about 1/16”. Install the RMB seal into the RMB cap in the same fashion. Since the felt is oil soaked, no RTV can be applied to the ends of the seal as it will not cure properly. We would apply a thin coat of RTV along the sides of the RMB cap where it joins the block to seal it. Like a rope seal, this type of seal will likely seep some over time.

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Dad got a little progress done the last few weeks, managed to get the rear main seal installed and ready to go.  The rear main seal material is not to my satisfaction as far as material goes, the CNH seal looked far more compacted and tight compared to the one that came with my engine kit.  Hum....  Any how, the oil pump spring has been replaced and the cover bolted back on.  Just got a call from the IH dealer to let me know that the oil pickup float was in and ready so hopefully I can get some work done this weekend.

Oh, the reason the float is being replaced is that the pickup was dented and cracked the seal around the intake tube allowing fluid to enter the float.   

IMAG2983.jpg

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After picking up a new oil float I was a little disappointed, the 'float' portion of the pickup has been deleted from the part, which is not to my surprise.  I'm thinking that I could have just drained the mineral spirits out of it and reused it.  It would work in the same manner as the new one.  Well, I know better now.

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A few progress pictures from this last weekend.  Had a pretty good weather over the weekend and no work, a rare combination this time of year.

 

This last picture is of the rear bearing race in the governor.  Wow!  Those bearings were not cheap!

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Brand new nos head getting ready for the hot tank.  Brand new CNH clutch, throw out, and pilot bearing.  IH dealer had one governor bearing but not the large front bearing so I'll have to wait till next week.  

I was disappointed when I looked at the parts.  The clutch was made in China, one bearing was from Bulgaria and another from Argentina.  And yes, I know, it is an International company, and I'm sure the quality of the parts are just fine.  I was just a little bummed out.

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Here is a few more updates on my snoozer of project.  :D  This weekend we got a head back from the machine shop (Thank You A&R Machine) after being hot tanked.  The head is NOS and has been sitting around my parents barn for about 11 years so it just made sense to get it hospital clean before getting started.  The only engine experience that I have is with my Cub Cadets so I don't know how to grind valves other than to lap them by hand.  The band looked good so I'm going to go with it.  My parts professional at CaseIH advised that I consider new valve keepers due to there possible wear and prevent dropping one but after seeing the 'new' keepers versus the original ones I thought the old ones looked much better built and warranted being cleaned and reused but that is just my opinion.

 

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Looking good, thanks for posting

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Found the missing wheel, the old spoke side has got to go.  Wish I had the steel complete but I don't so this is what it's going to be replaced with.  A buddy of mine has a bad key in his H and is buying the other.  One set found and two tractors fixed.

 

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Edited by fbh31118
Change in picture size

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1 hour ago, fbh31118 said:

Found the missing wheel, the old spoke side has got to go.  Wish I had the steel complete but I don't so this is what it's going to be replaced with.  A buddy of mine has a bad key in his H and is buying the other.  One set found and two tractors fixed.

 

20170211_155432_001.jpg

Good score

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Lifters are on there way to Effingham Regrind.  Should have everything to finish the motor when they get back.

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Lifters are done and are being shipped back from grinding!  Hope to have them for this weekend but I'm not holding my breathe.

 

Edited by fbh31118
spelling error

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Finally  got a few lifter pictures.  Can't wait to see these in the motor!

 

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Tires, tubes and rims ordered.  OUCH!

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