kis2

My Super M!

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

First post, thanks for having me!

Recently picked up my first tractor and its a Super M! We are the second family to own this tractor since 1953, which is pretty neat. All the gauges work, engine sounds great, hydro, 3pt, block heater...good stuff. needs new lights (I may wait to do a 12v conversion and then replace the lights), hydro some hydro leaks here and there I need to chase down (worst one looks like the bottom of the pan, probably just need to RVT it), but otherwise pretty solid! Planning on some general homestead work and snow plowing a flat driveway, got the rest of summer and fall to get it ready.

Like I said, I'm new to tractors, so I apologize in advance for the basic questions. I think I'll be in for new tires before the winter, reading around here seems like this is the size I want: https://simpletire.com/alliance-13.638-35710400-tires

I was going to upload some pictures of the tractor, but the forum doesn't seem to want to let me. I'll keep trying.

 

Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Very nice! Do you know if it was ordered with the wide front? Nothing like a family tractor. Do you have any documentation from when your family bought it or old photos?

 

A note on tires, the cheaper brands tend to last less than 10 years from most reports, usually suffering from severe cracking rather than tread wear. You might consider a Firestone or a Titan (they had issues in the past but have pledged that their new tires are cured). That being said, a lot of the farmers around here use Alliance, but they can run through tires in under 10 years.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Enjoy, my first purchased tractor also at 19yrs old.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks all!

and thanks for the heads up on tires rcb. Right now I'm budget tight, but we will see what happens before the winter. Those are the right size tire though right?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tires are a personal prefrance, I have 14.9x38 firestore field & road with 6.50x16 fronts. Very happy with this set up for 30yrs.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

She looks nice and straight, obviously well cared for over the years!   13.6 tires are probably the most common on M's and SM's and are the right fit on 12" wide rims.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have one set of Galaxy Earth Pros they look just like the old Firestone Field & Rhodes but they're made in China but a set of them in 15.5-38 is about $1,000 for the pair our tire guy has had good luck with them with all the customers he has sold them to. They are about the same height as 13.6 are 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

12 volt system is installed! Would post a video if I could here, but it fires right up! New sediment bowl stopped the fuel leak (although the 'direct replacement' part was nowhere near a direct replacement!), and 4 shiny new tires will be here by the end of the week!

She's pretty much ready for winter! I'll post some pictures once the new tires are on.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds good.  The best way to post a video is with YouTube.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice looking Super M. Just trying to get a Super M back in the family that my uncle bought new, then sold it to my brother-in-law, who then lent it to his sister about 25 years ago. As far as I know it is still in running condition.

If you are new to tractors, be really careful with that loader if you have the bucket loaded up and get it up high. Have a friend that ended up paralyzed with a broken back after a round bale came down on him when going over rough ground. Have heard of many other serious injuries that happened the same way. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We used to have the same front end on our M and it's not the least bit adequate for loader use.   The three contact point hub design tears up and cracks the rims to bits fairly quickly.   We went through a lot of them before(~1 a year) converting it over to an old W-9 front axle and wheels which now 12 - 15 years later are still holding together just fine.  

Moving the loader back to where the rear uprights are just in front of the rear axles helps take a considerable load off the front end and steering and makes the tractor considerably more stable when loaded as well.  As long as the loader arm cross member clears the front of the tractors it's not too far back and can make it possible to pick up and carry well loads over 1500 pounds without too much difficulty.     

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the advice all, it's duly noted!! Safety first and small loads!

fun little project tonight: none of the lights worked previously, and now it's a 12v system, so went to Walmart and found these little $20 LED, and they fit in the original housing! Used the styrofoam from the box and some weather stripping to really sit them in there good.

Look real nice!

IMG_4666.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks and will do!

A couple hydraulic questions for anyone with the time:

1) How do I check/fill the fluid on this system? There's no dipstick under the cap or anything. I'm about to drain the whole thing to replace the seal on the bottom, need to know how much to fill it back up!

2) Right now my hydro pump runs off the PTO, some day I'd like to move to an engine driven pump. I've seen one that mounts to the right side of the engine, anyone know where I can find one of those (or if I should be looking at a better solution to get the hydro off my PTO?)

 

Y'all are great, thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For live hydraulics those old distributor mounted ones are expensive, ~$800 for a good one, plus for loader work they are slow and underpowered  at ~12 GPM and 1000 - 1200 PSI. 

If you really want decent live hydraulics and don't mind doing a bit of unseeable modification to the tractor you can put a crankshaft driven one underneath your radiator by cutting into the big hollow area of your front bolster.  

That's what I did to my dads M a few years ago and put a 2500 PSI 25+ GPM unit in there.    

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was just in Walmart the other day looking at those same lights and wondering if they would fit in the existing Guide housing. Let us know how they work and if they are adequate.

You have a stage 1 SM with belly pump it only holds 6 quarts, they had a dipstick attached to the filler/breather cap but they can fall off. So just empty the pump and put 6 quarts back in. SAE 30 non detergent motor oil was original but if it will share an implement with other tractors put in HyTran, it will work fine.

Off the top of my head I think you can bolt the stage 2 SM live pump between the ignition and the mounting on the engine. Then you will need a reservoir for fluid, you can use the belly pump for a tank. I believe you can use the drain to supply the pump and return through the fill. There may be some issues with cam gear improvements to handle the live pump, someone will know for sure.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do youself a favor and get some rear tire chains for winter traction. with a bucket hangin over the front it will do more spinning than pushing. just type tractor tire chains in to google. nice machine!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
53 minutes ago, 660 driver said:

Do youself a favor and get some rear tire chains for winter traction. with a bucket hangin over the front it will do more spinning than pushing. just type tractor tire chains in to google. nice machine!

X2!    Chains will make a huge improvement in traction.  New tires almost none.  Chains actually work better on tires with little or no tread too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As far as modern tires and cracking...Store the tractor inside.  Doesn't matter what brand of tire, it will last far longer if stored inside out of the direct sun.

I have rear tires on a Ford 800 that are 30+ years old, always stored inside, and they look brand new.   The 5yo tires on my FC that sits outside are all splits.  And that's TYPICAL.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 11/9/2016 at 4:55 PM, kis2 said:

Thanks for the heads up, y'all have a link to some affordable chains?

Not really. They're all expensive.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now