Haymaker101

Need advice with diesel leak on 1086

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Hi everyone, I have a fuel leak coming from the injection pump on my International 1086. It started leaking last fall, and I just tied a rag around it and it is time to make the appropriate repair. I tried to tighten the Allen bolts but that did not make a difference . I am told that these are timeed gears and I'm just curious as to how hard a job this is to fix, I am hoping that is simply a gasket or a ring which may need replacement. Any advice as to what I may be getting myself into or special tools would be much appreciated. Also I do not have a international dealer nearby, so who do you recommend that I buy parts from online

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I would bet that you'll have to pull the pump to fix. Seems like I see most of those leaking there on tractors that set outside and the aluminum oxidizes and "pits" around that seal...

Couple of guys on here know what's up and will tell you what you need to do for sure.

Travis

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Well my buddy and I are just two monkeys with a tool box and we got the manuel for the pump off ebay its like a 100 page book just for the bosch pump and it will explain on how to remove that head the lines go to! Pump shop said we couldnt do it but we did my buddys 1066 first it worked cost like 15 bucks in o rings so we decided to do my 10 pulled the head out and right where the one oring sits the fuel will erode the aluminum housing over time and then the o ring fails which mine is eroded bad but so far so good hasnt leaked in 6 months 15 bucks for o rings and 30 dollar manuel cheaper than a 1000 pump shop bill and if you screw up least you can say you tried! My theory! Who knows maybe you can get a couple more years outta your pump! Good luck Brian

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It's not a bad job but you need to be very fussy when doing this , no dirt , and not one tooth off on the pump timing or you epwill have trouble .send me a note if you need some help .

Danny

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You can make a runaway too if you don't put it back together right.

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If a guy pulls the pump off, how do you get the teeth lined back up correctly on the gears when re-installing?

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Oay this sounds good. What's a runaway tool?

Does anyone know exactly the specs for the O ring needed so if I do pull it apart, I can just install new o-ring and put back together right away and hope for the best

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Also, I have just a generic oring kit from my local auto parts store just curious if one of those should fit they're all the SAE size O-rings

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THe key on pumps is to time it BEFORE you take anything apart. Remove the little cover on the side below the head and rotate the motor forward until the scribe lines inside line up perfect. If you overshoot, back the motor off a ways and try again. After removal, don't touch the motor again. Then when you reinstall the pump, simply reinstall it so those lines are lined up again.

I've never used this on a pump..but have had excellent success with the clear red/purple Loctite "Gap Sealer" RTV on pitted aluminum.

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i would take it to a pump shop you aint going to fix it with an o ring kit. philip

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What's a runaway tool?

Too. Not tool.

A runaway is a diesel engine that can't be shut down, either because the injector pump rack is stuck, or it's being fed atomized oil from a failed turbocharger.

Unless you can choke off the air supply, it's fatal. The engine will scream until it comes apart.

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What's a runaway tool?

Too. Not tool.

A runaway is a diesel engine that can't be shut down, either because the injector pump rack is stuck, or it's being fed atomized oil from a failed turbocharger.

Unless you can choke off the air supply, it's fatal. The engine will scream until it comes apart.

If you have good brakes, put it in High 4th and stand on the brakes....

Travis

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i doubt you have enough brakes to choke down a 414 turning oh say twice the normal red line. you can look under the valve cover and tell when number one

is coming up on tdc on the compression stroke look at the timing pointer get it on 0 tdc now you can pull the pump tell the pump shop you pulled it at no1 tdc

and they will give it back to you ready to put on. also check the idler gear that runs the pump it is likely loose. philip

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Threat, thanks everyone for the ideas. I'm going to have a friend (excellent mechanic) give me a hand pulling it in the next couple weeks and go from there. Still hoping to just replace an Oring. Thanks guys

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When the top of the pump started to get wet on my 766 (this has been over 35 years ago), it turned out to be a cracked pump head.

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Tightening the allen screws retaining the head won’t stop the leak as it is completely seated. The top o ring is what is leaking and it merely seals AROUND the head. This leak can easily be fixed WITHOUT removing the pump for the engine. Remove the fuel supply line, inlet fitting, 4 screw side cover plate, cut the safety wire between the retaining plate screws and with a flat blade screwdriver, gently pry the control shaft from the housing . An amount of diesel will pour out. Turn the engine until a mark on the head driven gear aligns with a raised mark on the housing just below it. Pump is now timed for head removal. Disconnect the lower ends of the injector lines, bend them out of the way for head liftout, remove the allen screws and clamps, and pry / lift the head from the housing and pull out the old seal rings. The head drive gear will have a chamfer on one tooth which if in time, will be at the top of its rotation. Install new rings, (one on control shaft also), set head back in while aligning marks and clamp back down. Turn the metering shaft, such the sleeve control pin is at the bottom and flat, push it in, then rotate it. If it can make a full rotation, it is correctly engaged with the metering sleeve. If you get it a tooth off, it won’t lead to a runaway. It just won’t start. Been there, done that. Governor failure causes a runaway (aside from major turbo seal failure).

An AMBAC seal kit for an American Bosch 700 pump was $70 a few years ago and has every seal needed for a full rebuild. If you have a good hydraulic shop, take your old o rings and the head to them and get a round o ring to replace the bottom flat ring. Get the larger cross section of the two available in that diameter as it has a better compression seal.

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Buy an blue ribbon Ih manual for injector pump on ebay, mine was about 10 bucks, fixed 2 pumps myself you definitely want the book. Think the o rings are square edges

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CAT_8_IH stated; (Turn the metering shaft, such the sleeve control pin is at the bottom and flat, push it in, then rotate it. If it can make a full rotation, it is correctly engaged with the metering sleeve.) I would only add that the control arm needs to be at 3 o'clock per pump service manual

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Which manual # is the one we should get? I looked on Ebay and there are lots of manuals , but done really stated that pump series.

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the complete rebuild manual for that pump is on the mfg web site its long but its free. philip

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I fixed my injection pump head leak last week on the 1066. Downloaded and printed the first 20 or so pages from the web. $39 pump kit. Not too bad of a job. With the advice from the previous posters went really well. Thanks guys.

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