Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'farmall'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Boards
    • General IH
    • Coffee Shop
    • Projects, Builds, & Restorations
    • Support
    • Announcements
    • IH Construction Equipment
    • IH Trucks
    • IH Engines
    • Cub Cadets
    • IH Toys, Memorabilia & Collectibles
  • Archives
    • Archived Posts

Calendars

  • Community Calendar

Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

Found 25 results

  1. 986 hydro failure

    Hello, I am working on the 986 I got from a local farmer, said it had a complete hydraulic failure (no brakes,steering, anything)and was parked, anyone know why this happened and how I can fix it? any help is greatly appreciated
  2. farmall axle planter sprocket

    Guys, somebody very recently (I think) posted a "what's this" topic, and had a picture... response was, sprocket that clamped on the axle of a farmall (like a M or H, I think) that was for driving a flat chain on a factory (i think) planter for those models. I can't find the post, but am interested in the sprockets. One person said, oh these are very common in my area. I'd be interested in knowing what they're called commonly (so i can hunt one by name), as I'd been thinking about a project where ground driven would be hard good, but doing it behind the tractor would be hard, but coming off the axle would make sense. Out of curiosity, also... how do you disengage that for road travel... do you take the chain apart? I'd be thinking of running that on a M or maybe even my 544. Thanks, Russ....
  3. Coming to the end of my rope

    I'm at my wit's end over this crankshaft pulley on my 1940 B. I tried half inch bolts and althread in the crankshaft hole with no luck. I tried a half inch tap to chase the thread and it ate the end of my tap. I tried a 7/16 fine thread tap and it went in fine. I then tried 7/16 althread and it pulled out without getting started. I can't get a half inch fine thread bolt or althread even started into the hole. The threads are not boogered up and I'm officially stuck. Yesterday afternoon I tried grade 5 half-inch course thread, both bolts and althread. No luck. This pulley has a hole for a set crew, but nothing in it. If I could find anything between 1/2" inch and 7/16" I would use that, but nobody has such a creature. I put it in the oven at 400 degrees for about an hour last night and it went on a little easier at first, then stopped with about 3/4" left to get it on completely; I used welding gloves rather than run the risk of my wife making me sleep in the barn with this tractor if I used her oven mitts on this thing. I got it on the shaft and lined up with the woodruff key then my dad held a 2x6 block against the pulley and I hit it until I split two pieces of 2x6, and it finally stopped as I said before, with roughly 3/4" left to go. I don't like the idea of hitting it and running the risk of messing up connecting rods or bearings. I admit that I'm no machinist. I don't have any Farmall guys around me that I can call on for advice or even invite over to sit on a bucket and give my advice. Both of my grandfathers were pretty fair machinists, but they've both been gone for years and I have no brothers or cousins in the tractor mechanic business that I can call on for advice. It's just me trying to get this tractor running for our little girls who are expecting daddy to perform a miracle in the barn and make their pretty red tractor that they've been waiting for nearly a year on to be fixed. I am open to any suggestions. And if anyone feels the need to publicly berate me as another member did on another tractor site by telling me that I didn't know what I was doing, that I better just quit, and that I needed to take it to someone who knew what they were doing, then I guess go ahead, too. Thanks in advance and God's Blessings on you all.
  4. I'm at my wit's end over this crankshaft pulley on my 1940 B. I tried half inch bolts and althread in the crankshaft hole with no luck. I tried a half inch tap to chase the thread and it ate the end of my tap. I tried a 7/16 fine thread tap and it went in fine. I then tried 7/16 althread and it pulled out without getting started. I can't get a half inch fine thread bolt or althread even started into the hole. The threads are not boogered up and I'm officially stuck. Yesterday afternoon I tried grade 5 half-inch course thread, both bolts and althread. No luck. This pulley has a hole for a set crew, but nothing in it. If I could find anything between 1/2" inch and 7/16" I would use that, but nobody has such a creature. I put it in the oven at 400 degrees for about an hour last night and it went on a little easier at first, then stopped with about 3/4" left to get it on completely; I used welding gloves rather than run the risk of my wife making me sleep in the barn with this tractor if I used her oven mitts on this thing. I got it on the shaft and lined up with the woodruff key then my dad held a 2x6 block against the pulley and I hit it until I split two pieces of 2x6, and it finally stopped as I said before, with roughly 3/4" left to go. I don't like the idea of hitting it and running the risk of messing up connecting rods or bearings. I admit that I'm no machinist. I don't have any Farmall guys around me that I can call on for advice or even invite over to sit on a bucket and give my advice. Both of my grandfathers were pretty fair machinists, but they've both been gone for years and I have no brothers or cousins in the tractor mechanic business that I can call on for advice. It's just me trying to get this tractor running for our little girls who are expecting daddy to perform a miracle in the barn and make their pretty red tractor that they've been waiting for nearly a year on to be fixed. I am open to any suggestions. And if anyone feels the need to publicly berate me as another member did on another tractor site by telling me that I didn't know what I was doing, that I better just quit, and that I needed to take it to someone who knew what they were doing, then I guess go ahead, too. Thanks in advance and God's Blessings on you all.
  5. IH Plow Identification

    Can anyone point me in the identification of this plow? Being told it is an IH from the 30's. I am not sure but was wondering if a guy could possibly take off one plow and use it as a single bottom? I have a little Farmall B and want to use it to plow up some areas in the woods/food plots next year. This one is priced right! Thanks
  6. Tractor Model Question

    Hello, folks! I'm looking to add a tractor to the farm (mostly I just want an old Farmall) and have my wish list narrowed down, but want some information from people that know them a little better than I do. I will be using this tractor for mowing (finish and hay), baling (eventually), maintaining a 1/4 mile driveway, hauling firewood, and the occasional parade trip. No gardening/cultivating since I have a 140 for that, but I will probably get a plow for it, too. I have narrowed my list to a 300, 350, or 340. I grew up on and there a lot of As, Cs, 140s, etc. around my home, but I want something bigger AND with an independent PTO. I know that my list members are all about the same as far as weight and power, especially the 300/350. What are the pros and cons of these tractors? Or, are they so similar that I should not turn one down when found just to wait on the other one? I'll be honest. I think the 300 and especially the 350 are much better looking, but I'm not going to let that be the only reason I get one or the other. Thanks for the info!
  7. B Farmall pushrods

    So I had my 113 engine rebuilt by a machine shop. I get it back and the pushrods are not in it, but I put them in once I got it back to my shop and on the engine stand: I say that because the bar in my old valve train was worn in several places so I picked up one in very good shape at a salvage yard. I get the pushrods in and down into their seats and then put the valve train/rocker arm assembly on and I'm confused: there are gaps of up to 3/4" between the head of the pushrod and the cup in the rocker arms. Do I need to turn the crank until each pushrod comes up to the cup of the arm and then adjust each one? I've never had to fool with pushrods and rocker arms before. Anyone with some grandfatherly-type advice please feel free to comment. I've got a service manual and gauges to set the valves once I figure out what it going on with the rods. Also, do I have to take the timing gear off to locate timing marks on the internal gears or are all of the markings on the flywheel? Like I said, this engine has been completely rebuilt and I have had the clutch, flywheel & ring gear off, had a new pressure plate built, and put a new throwout bearing in but that wouldn't mess up the timing marks on the flywheel, would it? My dad is not a Farmall guy and there's not many around that I can go to with help on this project. Thanks in advance for your time and input.
  8. starter drag

    My 39 h starter drags. Has been converted to 12 volt should turn over faster then that any clues?
  9. 1939 farmall paint

    Can't figure out how to send pictures working on that . I know I am getting ahead of my self but I am thinking about paint. Thinking about valspar anyone have any ideas thank you all on your replys on the fuel pitcock was very helpful
  10. 1939 farm all h

    Kind of need help bough a ole 39 h. It is is kind of rough . was wounded where I could get the valve that goes in the main fuel tank. It is a duel fuel thank you
  11. Hey there gentleman, A little bit of a odd post but I'm on the hunt for my familys old Farmall H from our farm. From the information I have it was bought by a gentleman from Alberta in about 1999 or 2000 that owns (or did own) a International farm dealership. The tractor was bought from outside Shellbrook Saskatchewan. My uncle can't remember the exact place it went but "High" something Alberta. He thinks High prairie, but could be High River, High Level. It was a wide front H, had a heavier draw bar off of a WD9, tool box on left side of tractor beside engine. Hydraulic control rod was attached to right side of headlight bracket. Little bit of a needle in a haystack situation but any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks very much Dave Mulhall
  12. Bad Condensor???

    Hey there guys.. I have a McCormick W-6 with distributor ignition. It runs very good when cold, once its warm (half a lap around the 10 acre field pulling a cultivator) it starts missing and gradually gets worse. It doesn't stall out completely but misses really bad after running that long. I replaced the coil with one I had in the shed, replaced the plugs with new autolites, only thing left would be condenser??? I don't know how a bad condenser would act..?? A few years back I rebuilt the carb, and have had it off about 6 times with no change. When its running I pull the choke to see if it gets better and it just smokes black and stumbles, so I don't think its fuel. Could be coil, but I don't think so. I'm running 12 volt with a ballast resistor (and have tried changing the resistor) As always, thanks in advance for all your advice. Dave M
  13. 303 combine Ignition switch

    Hi Everyone! I'm working on the 303 again and I bent the starting switch (long story) and I was wondering where I could get a new one if anyone knows of any sites or a specific switch to get. I was looking at Steiner Tractors parts and they have a few, just didn't know which one would fit on it. Any help would be very appreciated! Jon
  14. Farmall 504 Diesel Questions

    I am currently looking at buying a 504 diesel and was wondering what problems, if any, these tractors were known to have? Or if anyone had any advice from their own personal experiences with them. Anyway to get some more ponies out of a D188? It's going to be pulling sled for the rest of it's days while I own it! I currently have a 504 gas burner and haven't had any bad problems with it. Anything is appreciated! Thanks!
  15. Hello everyone - Greetings from Charlotte, NC. Unfortunately, my father passed away recently (he was 58) and I'm left with three Internationals: 1966 806D (pictured), 1967 806D, 1974 1466 These tractors were never show ponies - always work horses on a dairy. He bought the '66 806 before I was born (I'm 29). Because of this, they're all in need of a good amount of work - particularly the 806s, they both need a new clutch. I don't want to sell the tractors - I'd like to keep them and restore as I find time & money. Although I spent the first 20 years of my life milking cows, stacking hay, and cutting silage - I stepped away from that after college and now work in engineering. It's safe to say that these old tractors inspired my fascination with engineering and mechanical stuff. My first goal is to get them all running - some have been sitting for a few years, but were all running when parked. The '66 806 just required a new battery and a shot of ether to fire right up. I suspect the others will be the same. This will take years of work and tons of money, but hopefully it'll be worth it in the end. I'm sure I'll need the help and support of this community. Pictures of the other tractors to come shortly. Thanks, -Chad
  16. Farmall 85 U, are they any good?

    Hello everyone, I am looking at a used 2011 Case IH "Farmall" 85U with loader. It has MFWD is a open station with ROPS and a canopy. It has 950 hours on it. The tractor looks to be in overall good condition, its not bent up or banged up. You can see it has spent most of its life outside as some of the plastic is faded. Does anyone have one of these or one of its bigger brothers the 95 or 105? I did test drive it and it works great besides one thing I noticed: this tractor has the power reverser and it works great with the hand lever however when letting out the clutch is has quite the jerk to it right away with very little petal movement. All in all I am looking for a replacement for my old 454 that I spend more time working on that driving... It seems I've rebuilt that entire tractor over the past 10 years and it keeps repeating itself...
  17. Farmall H 12 volt conversion

    Hoping to get a little help i have a farmall H running on 6 volt system, I just converted it to 12 volt with a kit from all states ag parts, I have everything hooked up and it runs good but I don't show on the ammeter where the alternator is charging, i rev the tractor to full throttle and the belt is tight but with my battery tester that shows how many volts( ground it to the tractor and put hot side on the 1 wire on the alternator I only show 12 volts only thing I have left off is there is one wire that hooked on the ammeter and the other side side of the wire went to a screw on the light switch/ ammeter housing, I didn't know if it needed hooked up or which side of the ammeter it should be on now any help would be great thanks
  18. Just like the title says, Are Farmall and Oliver rear rims compatible from the 40s & 50s? M and 88 if the tire size is the same? Found some on an Oliver for my M and just need to know if I can take the whole tire & rim of if the tires have to be taken off and remounted on the M rims.
  19. 1968 IH 1256

    I have an IH 1256. The rear axles went under water during a flood. I didn't know that the oil got replaced with flood water. I started it up and pumped water into what ever it went into. I've drained the oil. Only pulled all the plugs from under the tractor and pulled the filter. What else should I drain, check? Also it has tilt steering. The PO welded the joint to the motor shaft. I want to change the hand pump or motor, what ever you want to call it. My 2nd question is, are the tilt and non tilt steering motors( hand pump) the same? Reason I ask is there's a guy on eBay selling them with a description of tilt or no tilt. The only difference I see is it appears that the tilt has a spacer on the shaft. Please help and thanks in advance for all who reply.
  20. We are looking for the gasoline starting tank for a 1931 Regular, the large kerosene (distilate) tank was intact It appears that the 10-20 had the same fuel tank set up, so that may fit as well. Re-manufactured or existing used stock is accecptable. Could use a set of front steel wheels as well, the rear lugged wheels are in pretty good shape. It was retrofitted with welded rubber rims to the existing steel center spiders long time ago. It are the parts that are off the machine to make it complete to the eye. We are in South Carolina, cheers !!
  21. Hi ya'll!! I've been a lurker on this form for some time and I just couldn't resist joining finally. Anyway, this post is going to be my first on this form. I just managed to pick up a 1937 Farmall F-30 and I'm a little tired of the 4mph high gear. I've heard that Heisler made one such High/low add on for the older tractors and I wanted to know what one looked like, or better yet if someone might have one for sale? Thank you for the help!!
  22. Tractor Pull in the back 40

    I know some guys always like to see how we do things in WI so here is some footage of a pull that myself and a few other guys put on in Western WI every summer, this year we were able to get some drone coverage. This pull has been going on for 10 years now and we have consistently had over 100 hooks each year.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mm1jGGao9go
  23. 504 hand pump

    Hello, i am working on a Farmall 504 diesel with the adjustable wide front end. on the way back from the Christmas parade the steering started to catch when i turned to the right. So we took the hand pump off and sent it out and were told it cant be rebuilt because it is cracked. Also it seems like i cant find any replacement hand pumps for sale, so I'm not sure what to do. Any suggestions, thanks.
  24. Blown Head Gaskets '51H

    1951 Farmall H - Ran fine for years then started burning oil. Tore down and rebuilt with new sleeve and piston kit. Kit increased bore from 3-3/8 to 3-9/16 with high compression pistons. Used new Felpro gasket from NAPA at reassembly. Blew out head gasket between cylinder 1 and front water port while pulling hay wagon uphill at WOT then dropping throttle down after going over top of hill. Disassembly identified composite gasket blew between back of compressed metal ring and water jacket. small composite fragment behind paper was torn away and pushed into water hole between cylinder 1 and front of block at water jacket hole. Disassembled and straight edged block and head to find no abnormal surface or warpage. Cleaned both surfaces thoroughly then ran fine flat file over both surfaces to confirm no high spots. Purchased another Felpro gasket from NAPA and reassembled. Almost identical situation and head gasket blew again. This happens when going over top of hill or downhill when engine is breaking load speed. Pulling hard wide open throttle up hill then speed increases as I top hill, I kick down throttle to slow speed of load then exhaust blows white atifreeze smoke..... My Question - Is it possible the Felpro gasket for H application does not have enough support between the cylinder bore and the back of the metal ring leaving the composite material to blow with the now larger overbore sleeve? Is it possible the stock 3 3/8 bore head gasket is not getting enough squish with the new 3 9/16 sleeve? Should I be using an SH head gasket for the stock SH bore of 3 1/2" ? Should I be using a 300 head gasket for the stock 300 bore of 3 9/16" ? Is there a better composite head gasket with more metal between the edge of the cylinder bore or sleeve and the water jacket port?
  25. I have 2 questions here. I know I have a factory Farmall wide front for an H or an M with the tie rods in front. I think it is for an M specifically. I bought it for cheap with no hubs/wheels and it has a broken spindle. First question: Do you think this is something I should bother attempting having repaired? That's pretty thick to weld. I found a place online that I can get a new spindle for around $220. Yowza. http://www.abilenemachine.com/international-tractors-spindle-left-hand-AM51699DE.html