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Found 5 results

  1. 466 over rev

    Alright, when I am at a stoplight and want to start off easy I start in high 3 at 1,200 RPM, it dies down a lot, I go full throttle and about 2,000 RPM I clutch in to go to High 4, and it revs all the way into the black part, and the MPH Tac comes down into the white! Also if I go from a high idle to full throttle under no load it does this, but will eventually govern back after about 2 1/2 seconds, not sure why. This is on a 1971 or 1973 International 1066 with the DT466 engine, and a rotary pump. This only seems to happen when it is at an operating temperature, I am running 15-40. If the engine is 'warm' or 'cold' than it won't do any of this, and I can start from idle in High 4.... The fuel is only turned up about 1 turn, It has somewhere around 4,480 hours and runs great, accept for governing. I feel like it could be an issue with governor spring or something with the weights slipping. Anybody got a solution for this, and what it could possibly cost to rebuild myself or have a shop rebuild it?
  2. DT466 1066 Twin Turbo?

    Alright, So I have a DT466 in my International 1066. (1971) So it won't have any electrical junk all over it, like egrs n stuff. I had saw a video of a Dt360 with twin turbos. I was wondering what type of turbo setup I should do for this Dt466. I need to keep my fuel efficiency, and need to get just a bit more power, safely and reliably. I do need to replace that turbo anyways. I need to be able to run FULL LOAD at FULL THROTTLE for more than 8 hours with a new setup, and not have any issues. Thanks!
  3. 1980 IH Cargostar 1850B with boom

    I recently got this 1981 Cargostar 1850B. It is surplus from the Navy. Mostly it is going to be a general work truck and hobby welding rig. There are lots of little things to do on it, but the body, chassis, and work bed are in good shape. Transmission is Allison MT643 and it works well so far. I have not gotten into the crane yet except to see that it works. Overall, the wet kit is in very good condition. The first thing I will do is repair the leaking seal on the steering gearbox. This is my fist posting on this board. I will be looking for tips and advice from guys who know this kind of rig. I have some mods in mind and I plan to post them here to see if they generate any comments.
  4. Oil Pump Priming

    A little background. I have an '86 IH s1900 chassis with a DT466. I have it stripped to the frame, and I will be putting a '65 F700 cab onto it. I had the pan off while I fixed up a leak, then I buttoned it back up but never put oil back in it for a few months. So, if sat without oil for a few months. I also replaced the turbo with an S2E during this period. Prior to start-up, I was weary of running the turbo dry. So, I put oil into the pan and didn't get back to the job for a week. About a week later, I no-fuel cranked the engine over for about 20 seconds - no oil out of the turbo feed line. Not a drop on the oil first filter either. So, I figured I would loosen the first filter in an attempt to lower any possible head on the oil pump. Another 15 seconds, still nothing, not a drop. Next step, take a garden sprayer and push a gallon into the oil pressure sender port. Got to have it now right? Nope, no oil out of the turbo feed line after 15sec. Next step, what about they 1/4" bung on the oil cooler, the pressurized oil fed through the pressure sender port should squirt out of the bung like crazy? Nope, not a drop. In light of that, I then figured what the heck, might as well push another gallon through the oil cooler bung. The oil seemed to push though easier and hardly even got to the turbo feed tube - like most of the oil was flowing backwards through the oil pump. Also heard some air bubbling in what I imagine was the oil pan area. Tried the starter again, and the pump started pushing oil out the turbo line like a faucet. You never know what is coincidence and what is fact, but it seems like there is a check valve between the oil sender/filter area and the oil pump. But who knows, could have been bad luck/dumb luck. Anyone have an oil system diagram? I can't find one. Does anyone have similar experiences from after a motor sitting for an extended period, or a rebuild? This seems a bit strange to me. One might wonder if the oil pump is getting weak, but it makes really good oil pressure and has been really quick to build pressure prior to that. It seems like the pump got dry from sitting a few months, and just couldn't get a prime until it got wetted with oil. Maybe it would have sucked the oil up had I just fired the engine up, as cranking rpm is pretty low. But with a new turbo, I wasn't going to take that chance. Truthfully, I probably wouldn't have worried about verifying oil pressure prior to starting, had it not been for worrying about the new turbo. Also, to throw in a possible red herring the oil is 15w40 Rotella! Sorry, thats in jest. I wanted to use 30wt, but it is getting to be hen's teeth up here with our cold climate.
  5. Hey all, I am in the process of restoring a 1965 F-700 Ford, merging the body on to a s1900 IH chassis. Its a 1986 with a 466C (180hp). The old TO4 that was on this motor was getting pretty tired, so I replaced the turbo with a S2E114 (167336). I also considered using 3LM-466 (193876), but landed on the S2E for the following reasons: 1. I understood the S2E114 has more capacity. All fuel settings the same, the S2E will flow more air (make more power). I recently found some comments (forums) indicating that the S2E may not have this edge in capacity. I also recognize that the this is a difficult subject, as turbine efficiency/design comes into play here, so simple inlet/outlet measurements are not always the true "tale of the tape". Muddying the subject further, a more efficient compressor will put less waste heat into the charge air, which can result in a higher mass flow, but with a lower boost pressure. I am assuming the S2E has the edge here, being a newer design, but this is a guess on my part. This truck has an MW pump, and I want to turn it up to around 275hp. The truck will never have much load on it I want to avoid installing an intercooler if I can, so I am going to get a pyrometer and watch it hard. Any comments out there for actual experience with either of these turbos? Has anyone ran both turbos? 2. The S2E was a "heavier built" turbo. Reasons sighted from my research (forums) were a more robust bearing system. I have since learned the shaft on the S2E may be slightly smaller. The differences here are probably minor, and both are good turbos that will probably give long service life, so this wasn't a deal breaker either way for me. 3. The S2E apparently has a really nice "whistle" the 3LM lacks. This is about the only thing that isnt disputed on the forums. This truck is going to strictly be a big toy, so I thought a louder turbo would be a nice touch. This might be dumb reason, but what the heck! Does anyone out there have maps for these two turbochargers? It seems like a comparison of maps would be helpful. I have checked Borg Warner's website, but I cant see find anything for these two. It seems that since these are OEM replacement turbos, there isn't much design information for either.