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Found 8 results

  1. 986 gear noise

    The driven to gear on our 986 has a tooth broken off, so makes a clicking noise every revaluation. Would you split ta housing to fix, or run as is?everything else work as should
  2. Coming to the end of my rope

    I'm at my wit's end over this crankshaft pulley on my 1940 B. I tried half inch bolts and althread in the crankshaft hole with no luck. I tried a half inch tap to chase the thread and it ate the end of my tap. I tried a 7/16 fine thread tap and it went in fine. I then tried 7/16 althread and it pulled out without getting started. I can't get a half inch fine thread bolt or althread even started into the hole. The threads are not boogered up and I'm officially stuck. Yesterday afternoon I tried grade 5 half-inch course thread, both bolts and althread. No luck. This pulley has a hole for a set crew, but nothing in it. If I could find anything between 1/2" inch and 7/16" I would use that, but nobody has such a creature. I put it in the oven at 400 degrees for about an hour last night and it went on a little easier at first, then stopped with about 3/4" left to get it on completely; I used welding gloves rather than run the risk of my wife making me sleep in the barn with this tractor if I used her oven mitts on this thing. I got it on the shaft and lined up with the woodruff key then my dad held a 2x6 block against the pulley and I hit it until I split two pieces of 2x6, and it finally stopped as I said before, with roughly 3/4" left to go. I don't like the idea of hitting it and running the risk of messing up connecting rods or bearings. I admit that I'm no machinist. I don't have any Farmall guys around me that I can call on for advice or even invite over to sit on a bucket and give my advice. Both of my grandfathers were pretty fair machinists, but they've both been gone for years and I have no brothers or cousins in the tractor mechanic business that I can call on for advice. It's just me trying to get this tractor running for our little girls who are expecting daddy to perform a miracle in the barn and make their pretty red tractor that they've been waiting for nearly a year on to be fixed. I am open to any suggestions. And if anyone feels the need to publicly berate me as another member did on another tractor site by telling me that I didn't know what I was doing, that I better just quit, and that I needed to take it to someone who knew what they were doing, then I guess go ahead, too. Thanks in advance and God's Blessings on you all.
  3. I'm at my wit's end over this crankshaft pulley on my 1940 B. I tried half inch bolts and althread in the crankshaft hole with no luck. I tried a half inch tap to chase the thread and it ate the end of my tap. I tried a 7/16 fine thread tap and it went in fine. I then tried 7/16 althread and it pulled out without getting started. I can't get a half inch fine thread bolt or althread even started into the hole. The threads are not boogered up and I'm officially stuck. Yesterday afternoon I tried grade 5 half-inch course thread, both bolts and althread. No luck. This pulley has a hole for a set crew, but nothing in it. If I could find anything between 1/2" inch and 7/16" I would use that, but nobody has such a creature. I put it in the oven at 400 degrees for about an hour last night and it went on a little easier at first, then stopped with about 3/4" left to get it on completely; I used welding gloves rather than run the risk of my wife making me sleep in the barn with this tractor if I used her oven mitts on this thing. I got it on the shaft and lined up with the woodruff key then my dad held a 2x6 block against the pulley and I hit it until I split two pieces of 2x6, and it finally stopped as I said before, with roughly 3/4" left to go. I don't like the idea of hitting it and running the risk of messing up connecting rods or bearings. I admit that I'm no machinist. I don't have any Farmall guys around me that I can call on for advice or even invite over to sit on a bucket and give my advice. Both of my grandfathers were pretty fair machinists, but they've both been gone for years and I have no brothers or cousins in the tractor mechanic business that I can call on for advice. It's just me trying to get this tractor running for our little girls who are expecting daddy to perform a miracle in the barn and make their pretty red tractor that they've been waiting for nearly a year on to be fixed. I am open to any suggestions. And if anyone feels the need to publicly berate me as another member did on another tractor site by telling me that I didn't know what I was doing, that I better just quit, and that I needed to take it to someone who knew what they were doing, then I guess go ahead, too. Thanks in advance and God's Blessings on you all.
  4. I believe I understand correctly that there should be a timing pin near the crankshaft pulley, but I do not have one. Can anyone tell me if I'm just not seeing it or if mine has broken off? If it is gone, where do I put the replacement? Thanks in advance for the advice and encouragement you've given so far on this board.
  5. Long story short, I had my 113 in my B rebuilt in a machine shop that is high volume and does reputable work. They left the push rods out because I was going to try and find another valve train assembly off of another B that a friend of mine had. I found one, took it off and brought it home, put the push rods in- numbered and re-installed in trhe same order they came out- and this is the result. Are the gaps the result of my not having turned the crankshaft enough, thus creating rhe gaps between the tops of the push rods and the cups on the tappets? I grew up with Moline equipment and never worked in IH tractors until recently. Anybody have any ideas? I have other questions about timing marks on timing gear and governor, but I'll save that for another posting. Any help is most welcome and appreciated.
  6. B Farmall pushrods

    So I had my 113 engine rebuilt by a machine shop. I get it back and the pushrods are not in it, but I put them in once I got it back to my shop and on the engine stand: I say that because the bar in my old valve train was worn in several places so I picked up one in very good shape at a salvage yard. I get the pushrods in and down into their seats and then put the valve train/rocker arm assembly on and I'm confused: there are gaps of up to 3/4" between the head of the pushrod and the cup in the rocker arms. Do I need to turn the crank until each pushrod comes up to the cup of the arm and then adjust each one? I've never had to fool with pushrods and rocker arms before. Anyone with some grandfatherly-type advice please feel free to comment. I've got a service manual and gauges to set the valves once I figure out what it going on with the rods. Also, do I have to take the timing gear off to locate timing marks on the internal gears or are all of the markings on the flywheel? Like I said, this engine has been completely rebuilt and I have had the clutch, flywheel & ring gear off, had a new pressure plate built, and put a new throwout bearing in but that wouldn't mess up the timing marks on the flywheel, would it? My dad is not a Farmall guy and there's not many around that I can go to with help on this project. Thanks in advance for your time and input.
  7. 1940 B Rebuild

    First, let me thank everyone in advance because I would have never decided to tackle this project without previous help in this forum on another tractor. That being said, let me pose my questions with some background. I have a 1940 B, serial # F.A.B. 40150 that arrived on our farm close to 20 years ago after a neighbor traded it to my dad for some work. Long story short, it's been sitting for nearly 18 years and is now in my barn in pieces. I have the engine apart and crank and block both sitting in electrolysis tubs, and will hot tank them probably in the next week or so, including the governor, carburetor, and everything else engine-related that I can get into the tank to clean up. Suffice to say that this will be a pretty thorough refurbishment since I plan to put this tractor back into light duty cultivating our garden and small jobs around the place. So, here's the fun part: 1) I don't see a problem with buying a complete overhaul kit that includes valves, gaskets, etc. Or should I not? I've never done this before so I'm asking the experts, here; this will be my first engine overhaul, but I've grown up working on equipment, have toolboxes for of tools, and a nice barn/shop to do this in, so why not. If you had to buy a rebuild kit, whose would you buy and your thoughts on the product(s). 2) I've also read that step-head pistons are better if a tractor is going to be working. It may wind up in our local parade, but that's once a year- the rest of the time it'll be wearing double-row cultivators or pulling a planter. What are the pros and cons of step-head pistons? 3) The radiator: while taking it off, one bolt on the left side (while sitting on the tractor) was rusted smooth off and pretty much disintigrated when I took the radiator off. The other broke the whole piece of cast-iron off from the block that it was bolted to when it came off. I'm thinking it had already stress-fractured at some point, but nevertheless, it's off. Can a good radiator shop replace those bolts in the bottom, or am I looking at a new radiator because of that issue? When I drained the radiator, it was still green and was not leaking anywhere, so at least I know the core is still in good shape. I'd like to get some answers before I start buying parts this week, and I wanted to bring my concerns here because I trust the folks in this forum and value your opinions.
  8. Farmall B clutch adjustment

    Just putting a B back together. Complete major overall. I didn't change the clutch, pressure plate or throw out bearing as the looked fine. Lots of clutch pad, no wear on the flywheel and the fingers showed little to no wear. The clutch engages and disengages just fine but I have almost 3 inches of free travel. This is a school project and clutch travel has to be to spec which is 1.5 inches. Any ideas? Anything is appreciated. Thanks