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Hey guys. I bought a 706 with a bad clutch a while ago and have finally had time to get it split and a new clutch installed. I have everything reassembled and went to try moving it for the first time and it still would not go into gear properly you can slip into gear and when it is moving you can push the clutch in all the way and it does not stop it slows down a bit but does not stop. So I looked in the bottom cover and everything is moving as it should. So I figured it had to be the trans brake so I took the cover off with the trans brake and there is about and 1/8th inch of pad left on it is this enough? Also there was a good amount of leather in by the drain plug in the same cover from a seal I am thinking? Any ideas on this would be greatly appreciated.
Buddy of mine is coming into possession of a number of tractors that have been sitting outside for a decade or more. (long story). Among them is a 706D which I looked at and said Id help him try to rehab it. The engine is free and oil looks good though I expect some things are going to be tight on it. Not bad for rust tho. OK where the HECK do I start with this thing? Im not a diesel mechanic and other than draining all the fluids and starting over not at all sure how to proceed. Any advice appreciated. He also has an old spoke wheeled H on rubber Im interested in for myself. That one I can handle if it isnt tight.
There is a 706 for sale close to me with a bad clutch but new tires he wants $2200 for could probably get it for less was wondering if it would be worth buying and fixing and flipping if a guy would make anything on it? How long would it take to do the clutch and what would it cost? Don't have any pics and am not sure if it's a gas or diesel think it's a diesel but not sure wanted to ask here before I phoned about it. Thanks
If you've been following any of my other threads on my 706 gas to 301 Diesel conversion, then you know what an education it has been; I keep telling myself, nothing ventured, nothing gained . So I cut 20 acres of hay and things were going swimmingly, so I thought I had ironed out the wrinkles and had settled in to reliability - not so fast. The next use, it quit on the road on my way home, like it was starved for fuel. I waited a minute or so and it fired right back up (without glow plugs!) ran for another 3/4 mile and quit again. I found that if I kept it around 1500 rpm it would stay running. Once at the shop I drained the fuel, flushed any sediment, changed fuel filters, refueled, and bled. Started right up and ran for a few min and quit in the same starved fuel manner. The longer I used it the shorter the duration of run time I had, until finally it was only running for a minute or less. Deep in the depths of my brain was some remnants from my fuels class in college about these pumps regarding a deteriorating torsional vibration dampening ring, a glass check valve at the top of the governor housing, and the problems that was caused. When I took this valve out with the engine running only a trickle of fuel would come out, but no chunks of ring or debris. The check valve works and wasn't plugged. I pulled that valve and fitting completely out of the return line and now the engine stays running. This engine, in it's entirety, only has 2200 hours on it, so I am hoping the pump isn't going bad. The 715's were suppose to be 105 hp, BUT this engine isn't any where close, which makes me wonder if this pump is on it's way out. You can buy seal kits on ebay for $30 and I thought about pulling it apart and having a look inside. Between it idling at 1000 rpm, not having any power, and now this check valve issue, it may be time for that. My question is, what is going wrong?