IHFarmer07

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About IHFarmer07

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 06/16/1990

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Central, MO
  • Interests
    hunting, fishing, tractor pulling, farming, enjoying the great outdoors!

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526 profile views
  1. 826 with a d358 combine engine

    Ya I was afraid of that. Are those pumps easy to find parts, work on compared to the older models, because the pump shops that we have taken the older ones said that the heads are hydraulically driven or something like that and made it a PIA to get it right and the chroming can't be done on the parts that are worn in the states because we can't do it like the Germans. Thanks Eason
  2. 826 with a d358 combine engine

    Bump.....Anyone?
  3. Ok got the tractor running and had been farming with it for a month or so, now my dad is not real happy with the performance with it, lol he said that his 706 will walk circles around it (which he's not wrong, we've dynoed it at 160hp or so) I would have thought the 1420 combine engine would have been more than capable to come close or beyond the 706's performance. We had a turbo on it that was on it before with the 358 that broke the crank, and it seemed to choke it down and had no spunk. Took the turbo off and it seems a little better but still not quite up to snuff. Is there any fuel adjustment to the electronic shutoff VE pump? How much can one get out of this setup with the turbo that the turbo is a T04B80(have this on the 706 also)?
  4. Broke crankshaft in d358 in 826IH

    I think the combine engine would work great but we would still have a German engine, don't get me wrong, the German engines are awesome engines but the injection system has limits and is very expensive to get work done to and from what I was told is the pumps can't be 100% rebuilt exactly like it was from the factory because of how the head and such is built. Us in the USA can't replicate what the Germans built to the T with these pumps. With the ambac 100 there's new parts, pieces and all kinds of advances that can be done to them. I'm not sure what it would take to put a d360 in the tractor but I think that is the route we are leaning towards. Thanks Ed
  5. Broke crankshaft in d358 in 826IH

    Bump
  6. Broke crankshaft in d358 in 826IH

    What would a person have to change to put a d360 in the 826? If a d312 was in a 686 and 666 then a d360 would work but is there anything different about the front cover on a 312 to get it in a narrow frame tractor? Or could a person modify the front cover of a 360 to make it fit in the narrow frame?
  7. Broke crankshaft in d358 in 826IH

    That's exactly what I mean!!! We will just have to take it apart to see maybe but if we can find a GOOD used engine I believe we will go that route and do idk what with the broke crank one.
  8. Broke crankshaft in d358 in 826IH

    Yeah all good points. The place we had found used running engines tells you the idle oil psi and max oil psi. Dads feeling a lil sick with this hole deal and he was thinking to not stick anymore money in this engine, we have had nothing but problems with this engine, oil leaks everywhere, 3 injection pumps, all injectors gone through and when it was getting rebuilt the head bolt holes had to be cleaned out because there was a bunch of stuff at the bottom, tried to clean them out good as possible but still had problems with a seepy head gasket until we torqued the head more than spec. I don't know, we probably won't ever get our money back out of it, the repaires on this tractor is almost to the $20k range already in the last 4 years and we know what kind of pos this engine is already, thinking it's been run extremely hard and hot before we got it.
  9. Broke crankshaft in d358 in 826IH

    My dad has a d358 in an 826 that had gotten a total rebuild 2-3 years ago and about 300hrs on that overhaul. Well it had gotten parked for about a week and when he went to start it it knocked for a bit until the oil psi came on, parked it in the shop for a day or so, started it and it sounded different but not bad. So he put it to work on a 3 shank deep till that he was just 10" deep in some soil that was already chiseled about 4" deep, so it really wasn't pulling hard. On the 4th round of a 400yd pass it started growling and knocking, got it to the shop and took the oil pan off and found out that the damn thing broke the crank between #4-#5 pistons.....my question is, what would you all do, is the block shot? I would think it would've stressed the back 2 or three mains to the point it may have oblonged those? Thinking to find a 358 out of a 1420 combine and putting it in there, what needs to be changed or switched to make it work in a tractor?
  10. Cat head bolts for 560/660D?

    Does anyone know the lengths and sizes of bolts I would need to get from the cat dealership for a 400 series engine and or part numbers?
  11. Tire questions

    Ok guys I'm wandering how similar 20.8R38 compared to 18.4R42. I've got 20.8x38 bias firestone field and road tires on 22" rims and I'm wanting to change to radials for field work and tractor pulling. So my question is how would the 18.4R42 compare to 20.8x38, 20.8R38 traction wise for tractor pulling and field work? I'm running around 250-350HP on the pulling track and 150 for field work, around my area 20.8R38's are very very hard to find in any tire brand at the 50 to 20% tread for decent money, for what some people ask for used 20.8R38's a person could buy brand new.
  12. MCV bolts

    I guess I'll ask the nearest Matco man to see if he can calibrate it. Thanks, over looked that aspect of the situation!
  13. Got the hard part done with the D414 engine swap and finding parts the the original owners of the engine kept for their puller which was a pain in the a$$. I had first had a clutch rebuild place rebuild my factory 12" clutch but they must have not measured to see if the flywheel could be resurfaced, so when I had it all put together and the with the pump turned up without rpm adjustment and 20.8x38 it would slip going up my testing hill in 7th and road gear. So back apart here I go....this time I'm going 14" with a 21 spring pp and a hd6 pad. Rebuilt the MCV with 15 series springs to help keep the TA from completely going out right away. It did well farming last year and pulling, the original pump started leaking so I put a spare pump on and with a to4b25 it did ok but seemed to be laggy so I had a performance place put a 1.00 housing on and that worked great and was making around 250hp. I was experementing with this and that all year, tried a s2e didn't like it, the spare pump was doing some funny stuff so I got a new pump with some goodies packed in it. Hp didn't make a difference with the s2e but had a more torque with the new pump and the to4. This spring it got a slitly used 3lm and some new injectors and boy did that wake it up. The first pull this year was very happy with it and with a 8mph class it spun out in 6th getting 2nd. But the next pull something slipped, wasn't for sure if it was the clutch or TA but I was testing pressures and I was lossing lube psi on the high side. Just getting it back together and found out that the TA was SHOT, one of the clutches was trashed and 2 o the 3 rings that hold the psi was busted, like having a broken compression ring or 2 on a piston. So new HD TA and weights on the pp, hopefully it all holds!! Learned a lot putting the TA in myself, it was not so fun but in the end I did enjoy it after I figured out how to do things better. I was going to put pictures up but it keeps saying there too big to put on here!
  14. MCV bolts

    Question for you guys on the torque of the MCV bolt torque. I have been following the book on the torque specs and it says 25ft/lbs and I've been pulling the threads out of the cast at 25ft/lbs, this was the second one to do this. I had put helicoil for replacement but if that fails then what do you do, drill it out to a 3/8" bolt??? So what have you all been doing?