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About Binderdan

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  • Birthday September 26

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  1. So the engine is not supported at all by this crossmember? All the support is at the rear of engine? What is the grease zerk for?
  2. The rod attaching to the clutch lever is the upper rod bent 90 degrees upward at the rear. It looks to be to engage and disengage the clutch when using the winch from the rear. With this picture can you say for certainty which lever (inner/outer) does what? This winch certainly is a monster! I'm rather anxious to play with it. I know very little about judging the wear of the undercarrage. The gear teeth aren't razor sharp so I think that's a good thing. Any opinions on my undercarrage life?
  3. Thank you all for the encouragement! I talked to the owner when I was out there today. She was happy to see me still trying. She said I have all the time I need to try to get it going. That was a relief. I love the idea of using the 3020 remotes to lift the blade! Hopefully it wont be necessary but just in case its a great option. Headed out to the dozer today to spend my Easter Sunday trying to free this beast. Poured more ATF/Acetone down cylinder #1 and it didn't take much to fill. So I took the rest and dumped down cyl #2, #3, #4 for good measure. I put the pry bar on the ring gear in the starter hole and pushed with everything I had with hopes it wouldn't slip off and smash my hand. Unfortunately no progress yet with turning. I still think its a little strange that I can get a slight wiggle when prying on the ring gear, but when I pry on the front of the crank it is rock solid. Possibly because its cylinder #1 that is the suspected problem child. However I noticed this grease zerk covered in crusty dirt behind the front crankshaft pulley. I looked at how the front of the engine is mounted and it looks as if the front of the engine is attached to the cross member by the front of the crankshaft going through a bearing? Could it be that this bearing is seized and working against me? And the reason it feels so rock solid when prying on the front of the crankshaft?
  4. Went out last week and tried my Harbor Freight pry bars on the ring gear. Unfortunately it didn't budge. But I also took along my cell phone bore scope and tried to shove it down the compression release valve. It was ALMOST small enough to fit. I could see inside but not a well focused image. However I did notice that cylinders 2, 3, and 4 looked grey inside, and cylinder 1 looked brownish red. So I think cylinder #1 is the problem child but I couldn't tell to what extent. So I mixed up what I had left of ATF and Marvel Mystery oil and filled cylinder #1. I think I need to get more acetone and add it this week to thin out my concoction. At this point I think I have had oils in the cylinders for about 3 weeks or more. Friends are telling me I should walk away at this point because even if I get it freed up it will never have compression on that cylinder and I'd have to get a sleeve and piston which are made of unobtainium. It was also suggested I pull the head and put heat on the piston head. I don't think I'm equipped for that out of the trunk of my car and I have heard you cant get head gaskets. I don't want to walk away just yet because its so cheap and in pretty decent shape in my eyes. Thanks for the kind words on my trailer. I take a lot of pride in my equipment. I custom ordered it new last year while I was deployed. Has 12K oil bath axles and electric over hydraulic disc brakes. They are amazing! Hauling that IH bucket truck down the Raton pass was nothing for those brakes, like I was empty. It certainly wasn't cheap but it will hopefully last me my lifetime. The Raton Pass isn't the worst I have been over but it can be scary. 9 years ago my girlfriend had a nightmare that I lost brakes coming down the Raton Pass with a trailer and went over the edge. Call me superstitious but that women's intuition stuff is real and it scares me every time I'm hauling across that pass. The levers all move freely except the winch stuff but I didn't mess with those much. I just hope the clutches aren't stuck. But I guess I won't know until it runs. The rod on the clutch goes back to the winch and allows you to engage/disengage the clutch from the rear winch controls. That would be awesome if that was a hi/low! I realized I have a friend with a big truck and lowboy trailer. Now that I have my CDL I'm hoping I can bat my eyes and trade a pallet of beer for the use of his equipment to move this. lol Not sure if the Deere 3020 has the guts to lift the blade parts but that will be my backup plan. I think the blade and such will go nicely on my trailer if it has to, then haul the tractor separate.
  5. I just did my paperwork and fingerprinting for mine today. They said I should have it in 30 days. We will see if that happens. Cost about $125. You can look up your closest office and make the appointment online.
  6. Sounds like my clutch may need the adjustment North of 60 mentioned. I'll be asking about that in more detail once the engine is free. Starter engaged nicely, and after removing it I hit it with some jumper cables and it seems to be working well so I should be safe there. Weather has been wet and rainy so I haven't gotten back out to try my new pry bars yet. But tomorrow is supposed to be really nice so I will see what happens after work. The owner has a John D***e 3020 with a Farmhand loader but that's about it. I don't think the 3020 could move it without lifting or removing the dozer blade. I had originally intended to winch it on my trailer and haul it myself at first when I thought it was a TD-9. But from what I have read on here about the weight I don't know if that is a realistic thing to do with a TD-141. From what I have read on here the tractor by itself weighs 15,000 plus winch and blade another 3,000? Unfortunately the hour and 45 min drive is only to where I am staying while I'm working here. It will need to be transported 500 miles and over the Raton pass to my home, where all the proper tools and equipment are. Crawlernut you perked my attention when you mentioned removing the blade. How much weight do you think this will reduce? If I took the blade into 3 parts do you think the 3020 and Farmhand loader could lift them onto my trailer? Are the blades difficult to remove? I have a trailer with a 26,000 GVW and a 13,500 winch. It hauls my TD-91 around fine but it doesn't have a winch or blade. I think my trailer would move the tractor ok without the blade. But going over the Raton pass my Super Duty might start hating me. lol. I'd rather be able to drive it onto the trailer than use my 13,500 winch but I might not be so lucky. Paying someone to haul the tractor, and hauling the blade on my car trailer might be the wiser option so I don't have to end up buying a transmission too. Going rate is about $2.00 a loaded mile to haul equipment isn't it?
  7. Yes, the starter is under the oil filters. In the picture you can barely see the top of the solenoid under the rear oil filter. Its not easily accessible. I can get a shorter pry bar on it from laying under the tractor. From what I understand these TD-61, -91, -141 tractors had a slightly different engine as it was the last of the gas start diesels. So if yours is older its probably a bit different. The main clutch lever pushed the throw out bearing into the pressure plate like it should, but it doesn't cam over and feel like the lever on my TD-91. Next time I'm out there I will try removing the bolts on the front of the crank pulley. I don't have any pics of that area at this time. Seems like that would be easier than removing the pump from the front since I think I would have to remove the big heavy grille cover to do so. I was speculating that something else may be wrong since if I pry on the flywheel I get slight movement (not productive movement, it just wiggles a tiny bit) but if I work at it with the prybar in the front it seems solid. Thanks for the info on what everything does. I was hoping that shifter was a high/low but I suppose a fast direction change on a bulldozer is good to have. I'll probably go out again after work Tuesday and try a few things and get more pictures.
  8. I had a thought. Could it be possible that the front Bucyrus Erie pump is locked up and preventing the engine from turning? If I unbolt the flange drive on the front crankshaft pulley going to that pump and try turning the engine would this eliminate this possibility? Or is it attached with more than the 6 bolts to the pulley?
  9. Since I have a TD-91 I am fairly familiar with the controls. But this one has more since it has a blade and winch. Can someone tell me what the lever to the right of the gear shift does? It seems to only have 2 positions, forward and back. A high/low maybe? There is another tall curved lever all the way to the right. I assume this is to raise and lower the blade? There are also two levers all the way to the left that I assume are winch controls? There also seems to be a rod attached to the center of the clutch lever. Is this winch related?
  10. Thanks for the picture resizing suggestion. Once I downloaded that and figured it out it works nicely. I went over again yesterday to try again. I tried from the clutch area but no luck so I decided I'd better remove the starter like had been suggested. Once I found the starter buried behind the right frame rail and under the oil filters and hydraulic lines I realized that this would be no easy task unlike on my TD-91. The field was muddy and wet due to a blizzard the day before that quickly melted. I managed to get the starter removed with some assistance, but I only had a 5 foot long bar which was way too long, and a tire spoon. I tried the tire spoon on the ring gear with no luck. I decided to put more oil in the cylinders and buy a Harbor Freight pry bar set for my next trip out. So I dumped about a pint of a Marvel Mystery oil and ATF mixture down the cylinders to let it sit another week. I took the can off the exhaust and looked down the muffler with a flashlight. I saw a bit of dust and dirt but not the rustyness I expected to see. Makes me wonder how moisture got in the cylinders. Or maybe if something else is preventing it from turning and I'm barking up the wrong tree. My new cell phone bore scope didn't arrive until after I had started the hour and a half drive to where the TD-141 sits.
  11. I went over yesterday after work to try to break the engine free. With a blizzard warning in effect and only an hour of daylight I had to work fast. Got the center floor panel pulled up and the clutch cover removed. I found a large tire spoon and a 5 foot pry bar. I figured one of them should work. When I looked inside at the clutch area I didn't really see anything safe to pry on to turn the engine. The last thing I want to do is damage more stuff I will have to fix later. The only spot I saw was to put the large pry bar between the transmission input shaft and one of the release fingers on the clutch pressure plate. I didn't trust the fingers much so I didn't put much force on it. I tried adding a pic to this post but I am having trouble shrinking the file. I wish I could because its hard to describe without pictures. I pried on that a bit and tried the tire spoon on the front of the crankshaft. No luck with either. So I mixed what was left of the acetone and a half quart of ATF and dumped it down the spark plug holes. I wish I could see down in there. I ordered one of those cheap bore scopes for a smart phone. Hopefully it will get me far enough in to see through the decompression valve enough to see what I'm up against. I think I'll hold off on the new plugs at least until I can free the engine. It has AC plugs in it now and all I can find new are Champion. I'll probably just clean up the ACs. Valve cover idea sounds like a good plan but I'm not sure how feasible it is to do where it sits. I'll have to remove the muffler and hood which will be quite a challenge. I'll see if I can get the muffler to budge tomorrow.
  12. Thank you for the advice everyone! I went over to the TD-141 after work today and replaced a rotten fuel line, cleaned out the sediment bowl, and added gasoline to check for leaks in the gasoline system. So far so good. I pulled out on the compression release lever but soon realized I wasn't getting it out far enough so I cheated with a pry bar. Not that it was that stiff to pull, There's no seat to sit in and pull so it was too awkward to pull easily. I removed the spark plugs and mixed up the concoction that Crawlernut suggested with ATF and acetone. Tried a long flexible funnel but most of the mixture ran out. I took a piece of 5/16 fuel line and a mini funnel and that seemed to work good since it slowed the flow down to let the mixture run down into the cylinder. I put some in each cylinder and reinstalled the spark plugs. Now we wait... The spark plugs in it could use some cleaning but are AC plugs and look very old. I found new Champion plugs for about $7 each. Should i replace them or let them be? I took a look at that starter bar the King Of Obsolete made. That looks like a great idea but I don't have extra starters laying around to mutilate. I'll probably pull up the floor and try the clutch and pry bar idea when the time comes. This thing has one more shifter lever than my TD-91. Is it a high/low? Seems to be only two positions. At least that's what it feels like. Note the awkward location of the compression release lever under the throttle quadrant unlike my TD-91 which is up top. What instrument went in the hole on the left side of the dash where the hole is? Crawlernut: I have always used ATF to prime fuel filters on diesels, especially ones that have been sitting for a long time for initial startup. A guy showed me that when I was fairly young. His reasoning was It will burn like fuel, its much more slippery(for lack of a better word) than diesel fuel for lubrication of the pump, and its high in detergents for cleaning the injection system. Plus a quart bottle is much easier to pour than my 5 gallon diesel can. lol. If there is a reason I shouldn't do this please speak up.
  13. My friend posted a picture of Facebook of some cows in a pasture and I spotted a corner of a Bucyrus Erie blade in the corner of the picture. I asked about it and she got me the owners contact info. Owner said come take a look if you are interested. I went over expecting to find a TD-9 which would be manageable for me to transport. It turned out to be a TD-141, (later model gas start TD-14). Which would be more of a challenge to haul. I am planning to buy it if I can make it run since its fairly cheap. But without it running I have no idea how I could move it. It has a Bucyrus Erie blade and a huge winch on the back. I went over today with high hopes, a can of gas, heavy jumper cables, some ATF to prime the filters, and tools. Trying to jump it the starter tries but cant budge the engine. Been sitting at least 10 years. Can over the exhaust. I tried a pry bar on the crankshaft pulley with no success. So for my question... Can I remove the spark plugs and put some Marvel Mystery Oil down the holes and let it sit for a while and try again? Or are there pre-combustion chambers in these gas start heads that would prevent anything I pour down the spark plug holes from reaching the pistons? Any suggestions for getting it loosened up? If its bad I'll just walk away, not worth fixing. I am far from home so I have minimal tools and equipment at my disposal.
  14. Mine was doing something very similar. It also made a whining noise in the hydraulics. The last thing I suspected was the transmission/hydraulic fluid. But sure enough it was so contaminated with water it coagulated and plugged the filter and the pump couldn't build proper pressure. After a filter change and fluid change it worked great. Might be worth a check if the fluid hasn't been changed in a while.
  15. Great job! Looks beautiful! Those wheel clamps look odd to me. Are those 34" wheel centers but the clamps allow you to use 38" wheels on the 34" centers?