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About Binderdan

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  • Birthday September 26

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  1. scrapped 1086

    Thanks for the reply! I'm glad I didn't waste money buying the tool. Not to hijack the thread but if I want to move my wheels in with clamp wheels do I just jack a side up, loosen the clamps and slide the wheel in and tighten the clamp?
  2. scrapped 1086

    So the 1066 pictured at the top does not have wedge locks? The one pictured above has wheels that look just like my 856 wheels. Does that mean I don't have wedge locks? What are they called? I had just assumed I had wedge locks and I needed that tool to move them in further.
  3. Hough h 30

    Unfortunately my books are all too old for that model. Hopefully someone else will chime in. Nice loader though!
  4. Square diamond plate steel?

    I suppose it would be "square plate". lol. But not sure what the proper term for this stuff is. Anti slip steel, treaded steel? Do you know where to get it? I have asked a couple local suppliers and none had ever seen it before.
  5. iH pickup/truck cabs

    Jacka, I'm not sure where you are located but I live in the desert southwest and those cabs can still be found. Rust isn't a big issue out here but dents tend to be. I may know where a couple are but not sure how far you are willing to travel for a good one. I am into the 69-75 pickups so I don't really take notice when I see the older ones. But they are around.
  6. Square diamond plate steel?

    Since seeing my first IH pickup as a kid I took notice of the distinct square pattern steel used on the rear bumpers. I have seen this square pattern diamond plate steel on a few other things. But everything I have seen it used on is IH. Because IH owned Wisconsin Steel could it be that this pattern is Wisconsin Steel's version of the common diamond plate? Is there a source for buying this stuff new?
  7. Hough h 30

    There are a few different series of the Hough loaders. Do you know which it is? Or can you post a picture? If its one of the early ones I may have the manual for it.
  8. Fuel tank restoration

    Luckily I think my tank will be ok as long as I can prevent the rust from returning. Those Cleveland tanks look to be well built. Hopefully it won't come to that but it might be a good option if so. Got home from work and inspected the tank and it looked dry and clean enough for coating. I taped off the openings and started stirring the coating. Took a LOT of stirring to make the liquid all a single color. Poured it all in and rolled the tank around slowly to coat the whole inside. After coating it looked pretty good. Instructions said to drain all excess and not to let it puddle. This was difficult because the pettcock hole had a slight dent and wasn't the lowest spot. I rolled it around and did my best to get it all out. Now I have to wait 4 days before adding fuel. But in the meantime ill prep and paint the outside and get the tank mounted back on the loader.
  9. Fuel tank restoration

    Well my POR-15 kit arrived so I started the process on my Hough loader fuel tank. Step 1 involved taping off openings and dumping the quart of cleaner/degreaser along with a quart of "very warm" water into the tank and shaking the tank for 30 minutes. That was a long 30 minutes. Then flush with water. My water is so nasty here that you have to chew it, so I used gallon jugs of distilled water. Step 2 was to fill with the quart of metal prep and let it sit on each side for at least 20 minutes to etch the metal. Then flush the tank with water. Step 3 was to dry the tank inside completely with a heat gun then apply sealer. After my tank was dry I looked inside. Most of the inside looked acceptable to apply the coating but the upper part of the tank was still slightly rusty and I was not comfortable applying the coating. So I took another half gallon of warm water and a heavy dog chain and with the help of a friend we slid the chain back and forth inside the tank. After our arms got tired we strapped the tank to the center of the wheel on my Farmall 856 and went for a drive. This made easy work of it. I flushed the tank with water again and it knocked a lot of stuff loose. Still not perfect inside but I find it acceptable to apply the coating now. I'll be doing that after work tomorrow. It says not to put fuel in it for 4 days after coating.
  10. Excuse me pilots

    Yes, it was said that the rear of the 3 military MRAP trucks on board the 747 broke loose and rolled back during climb out causing the center of gravity to move rearward too far for the flight controls to correct. I'm sure the crew knew what was going on, but could do nothing as it stalled and fell.
  11. Excuse me pilots

    I agree, this video is camera angles. Once an aircraft like that passes a certain angle without enough power it loses speed and eventually the wings stall. Fighter jets are different since they have so much more power than weight. Here is an example of what happens when you nose up to hard without enough power and stall... I was present but off shift for this event. Was pretty ugly. Everyone died.
  12. International 384

    Here it is a year ago alongside my newly acquired Farmall 544.
  13. International 384

    I have a International 384, and my friend in California also has one. I really like the size and power of it. but mine was a beat to death POS money pit. Parts tractors don't seem to be come by easily. I still have it and use it. But I could have bought a nice one for what I have in this one. The 484-884 tractors were built in Doncaster England. But the 384 was the odd ball built in Bradford England.
  14. Fuel tank restoration

    Thank you for the input everyone. I think I am leaning towards using the POR-15 kit since I am familiar with their products. I agree that now is the time to do it since it clean now. I do need to find a universal fuel level sender to replace the nasty original one. New master cylinder is in and I have brakes now! I'll show some pictures of the results when I get my kit in.
  15. Fuel tank restoration

    Every 15 minutes or so my old 1953 Hough HF would die as a result of crud floating inside the gas tank and blocking the outlet fitting. This got annoying so I used a outboard boat gas tank strapped to the hood to get me by for a while. Worked good except in the sun the boat gas tank would pressurize forcing fuel into the engine so I had to monitor it closely. I finally got time to remove the nose piece and fuel tank a few days ago. I poured out the remaining gasoline and out came lots of rust flakes and crud. I have a friend who runs a automotive machine shop who offered to hot tank it for me. I was amazed with the results as it even took most of the paint off of the outside. He said it was due to a high acid content in the tank t was soaking in. Looks very good inside now but rather pitted from the rust. I have read of many methods of restoring the inside of the old fuel tanks but I'm not sure what to do. 1. Leave the tank like it is inside, paint the outside and just use it. After all they came from the factory uncoated metal inside. 2. Send it off and have the inside blasted, dents removed, and an epoxy coating that is guaranteed. Cost of $300-$400 + shipping cost. 3. Put river rock and water in the tank, strap tank to the center of my Farmall 856 rear wheel and drive around the property slowly. Buy POR-15 or auto parts store gas tank coating and attempt it myself. I have heard horror stories of this stuff flaking off eventually and causing the same problems. 4. Buy some epoxy paint and primer and slosh it around inside and let it dry and just install and use it. 5. Other ideas? This old Hough loader only gets used once a week or so to lift heavy items around the property but it sure is handy. But the fuel tank is such a pain to remove I don't want to do this again someday. Plus all the pitting might not allow for a next time.