Binderdan

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About Binderdan

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  • Birthday September 26

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  1. So when you say side shift you mean that there are two levers on the side of the transmission to shift it? Meaning it is (or was) a 3 on the tree(column shift)? Is there an issue with the transmission or are you just wanting to freshen it up? I have had a couple of 69-70 IH trucks with column shift 3 speed manuals and about 90% of the issues I had with it was caused by shift linkage. I have a couple of these transmissions laying around if you are in need. Cant help you with the fuel tank.
  2. Great! Thanks for confirming that number for me. Makes me feel better about ordering it. Yes, all the pieces are available separate or all 4 as a kit. Seems to be much less expensive for the kit. The part number for just the shaft is 404855R1, and a quick Google search for that number will bring up the A&I replacement.
  3. Is this the kit with the all original style parts? I am needing to do this to my 856 but the $220 price tag makes me cringe. However sure beats the price of buying the pieces individually. I believe this is the A&I kit. I have seen mention of an inner bushing that's not included. I think it goes inside the big cylindrical piece in this kit. I read you have to get this bushing from CASE IH still. I believe the inner bushing to be CASE IH #398274R1 but the parts diagram isn't as clear as I'd like to see before dropping $62 plus shipping. I believe the inner bushing is #11 on this diagram however in the picture it looks bigger than the outer piece. Can anybody confirm this before I spend the $? #9 is also listed as a "bushing". "Range transmission shift support" PN# 398273R1 No Longer Available #10 is listed as a "sleeve cylinder". "Sleeve, transmission shift support" PN# 404855R1 #11 is listed as a "bushing". Transmission cross shaft" PN# 398274R1
  4. Was anyone able to make a video of the speakers happen? I really wish I could have been there for it.
  5. Have you talked to Bill Hamilton of Hamilton Fuel Injection? He's over on the Binder Planet forum and a few others. He is extremely knowledgeable on the GM TBI system and he helps many of us convert our Scout's and other classics to run GM TBI systems. I think his name on the forums is Bill-USN-1. He would be the person to talk to when troubleshooting the 87-95 GM TBI systems.
  6. I would love to see a video of these speakers! I hope someone will make this happen. Unfortunately I'm deployed this summer so I wont make it this year.
  7. I know Maple Hunter makes a few of the common IH dealer decals. Another place to check is Scoutco Products in Harrisonburg VA. Its a print shop and Scout Light Line dealer. The owner is Mike and he has a lot more decals than are listed on his website. Give them a call and ask him about the decal you are after. He may have it in his computer and can make you some. He has made me many for my restorations.
  8. Beautiful job! I didn't see any pictures of the dash/steering wheel. Does the system you installed use one of those roller wheels against the steering wheel or one of those goofy looking big center steering wheels? Or were you able to retain the original IH style steering wheel and make it auto steer hydraulically?
  9. So the engine is not supported at all by this crossmember? All the support is at the rear of engine? What is the grease zerk for?
  10. The rod attaching to the clutch lever is the upper rod bent 90 degrees upward at the rear. It looks to be to engage and disengage the clutch when using the winch from the rear. With this picture can you say for certainty which lever (inner/outer) does what? This winch certainly is a monster! I'm rather anxious to play with it. I know very little about judging the wear of the undercarrage. The gear teeth aren't razor sharp so I think that's a good thing. Any opinions on my undercarrage life?
  11. Thank you all for the encouragement! I talked to the owner when I was out there today. She was happy to see me still trying. She said I have all the time I need to try to get it going. That was a relief. I love the idea of using the 3020 remotes to lift the blade! Hopefully it wont be necessary but just in case its a great option. Headed out to the dozer today to spend my Easter Sunday trying to free this beast. Poured more ATF/Acetone down cylinder #1 and it didn't take much to fill. So I took the rest and dumped down cyl #2, #3, #4 for good measure. I put the pry bar on the ring gear in the starter hole and pushed with everything I had with hopes it wouldn't slip off and smash my hand. Unfortunately no progress yet with turning. I still think its a little strange that I can get a slight wiggle when prying on the ring gear, but when I pry on the front of the crank it is rock solid. Possibly because its cylinder #1 that is the suspected problem child. However I noticed this grease zerk covered in crusty dirt behind the front crankshaft pulley. I looked at how the front of the engine is mounted and it looks as if the front of the engine is attached to the cross member by the front of the crankshaft going through a bearing? Could it be that this bearing is seized and working against me? And the reason it feels so rock solid when prying on the front of the crankshaft?
  12. Went out last week and tried my Harbor Freight pry bars on the ring gear. Unfortunately it didn't budge. But I also took along my cell phone bore scope and tried to shove it down the compression release valve. It was ALMOST small enough to fit. I could see inside but not a well focused image. However I did notice that cylinders 2, 3, and 4 looked grey inside, and cylinder 1 looked brownish red. So I think cylinder #1 is the problem child but I couldn't tell to what extent. So I mixed up what I had left of ATF and Marvel Mystery oil and filled cylinder #1. I think I need to get more acetone and add it this week to thin out my concoction. At this point I think I have had oils in the cylinders for about 3 weeks or more. Friends are telling me I should walk away at this point because even if I get it freed up it will never have compression on that cylinder and I'd have to get a sleeve and piston which are made of unobtainium. It was also suggested I pull the head and put heat on the piston head. I don't think I'm equipped for that out of the trunk of my car and I have heard you cant get head gaskets. I don't want to walk away just yet because its so cheap and in pretty decent shape in my eyes. Thanks for the kind words on my trailer. I take a lot of pride in my equipment. I custom ordered it new last year while I was deployed. Has 12K oil bath axles and electric over hydraulic disc brakes. They are amazing! Hauling that IH bucket truck down the Raton pass was nothing for those brakes, like I was empty. It certainly wasn't cheap but it will hopefully last me my lifetime. The Raton Pass isn't the worst I have been over but it can be scary. 9 years ago my girlfriend had a nightmare that I lost brakes coming down the Raton Pass with a trailer and went over the edge. Call me superstitious but that women's intuition stuff is real and it scares me every time I'm hauling across that pass. The levers all move freely except the winch stuff but I didn't mess with those much. I just hope the clutches aren't stuck. But I guess I won't know until it runs. The rod on the clutch goes back to the winch and allows you to engage/disengage the clutch from the rear winch controls. That would be awesome if that was a hi/low! I realized I have a friend with a big truck and lowboy trailer. Now that I have my CDL I'm hoping I can bat my eyes and trade a pallet of beer for the use of his equipment to move this. lol Not sure if the Deere 3020 has the guts to lift the blade parts but that will be my backup plan. I think the blade and such will go nicely on my trailer if it has to, then haul the tractor separate.
  13. I just did my paperwork and fingerprinting for mine today. They said I should have it in 30 days. We will see if that happens. Cost about $125. You can look up your closest office and make the appointment online.
  14. Sounds like my clutch may need the adjustment North of 60 mentioned. I'll be asking about that in more detail once the engine is free. Starter engaged nicely, and after removing it I hit it with some jumper cables and it seems to be working well so I should be safe there. Weather has been wet and rainy so I haven't gotten back out to try my new pry bars yet. But tomorrow is supposed to be really nice so I will see what happens after work. The owner has a John D***e 3020 with a Farmhand loader but that's about it. I don't think the 3020 could move it without lifting or removing the dozer blade. I had originally intended to winch it on my trailer and haul it myself at first when I thought it was a TD-9. But from what I have read on here about the weight I don't know if that is a realistic thing to do with a TD-141. From what I have read on here the tractor by itself weighs 15,000 plus winch and blade another 3,000? Unfortunately the hour and 45 min drive is only to where I am staying while I'm working here. It will need to be transported 500 miles and over the Raton pass to my home, where all the proper tools and equipment are. Crawlernut you perked my attention when you mentioned removing the blade. How much weight do you think this will reduce? If I took the blade into 3 parts do you think the 3020 and Farmhand loader could lift them onto my trailer? Are the blades difficult to remove? I have a trailer with a 26,000 GVW and a 13,500 winch. It hauls my TD-91 around fine but it doesn't have a winch or blade. I think my trailer would move the tractor ok without the blade. But going over the Raton pass my Super Duty might start hating me. lol. I'd rather be able to drive it onto the trailer than use my 13,500 winch but I might not be so lucky. Paying someone to haul the tractor, and hauling the blade on my car trailer might be the wiser option so I don't have to end up buying a transmission too. Going rate is about $2.00 a loaded mile to haul equipment isn't it?
  15. Yes, the starter is under the oil filters. In the picture you can barely see the top of the solenoid under the rear oil filter. Its not easily accessible. I can get a shorter pry bar on it from laying under the tractor. From what I understand these TD-61, -91, -141 tractors had a slightly different engine as it was the last of the gas start diesels. So if yours is older its probably a bit different. The main clutch lever pushed the throw out bearing into the pressure plate like it should, but it doesn't cam over and feel like the lever on my TD-91. Next time I'm out there I will try removing the bolts on the front of the crank pulley. I don't have any pics of that area at this time. Seems like that would be easier than removing the pump from the front since I think I would have to remove the big heavy grille cover to do so. I was speculating that something else may be wrong since if I pry on the flywheel I get slight movement (not productive movement, it just wiggles a tiny bit) but if I work at it with the prybar in the front it seems solid. Thanks for the info on what everything does. I was hoping that shifter was a high/low but I suppose a fast direction change on a bulldozer is good to have. I'll probably go out again after work Tuesday and try a few things and get more pictures.