• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Binderdan

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday September 26

Profile Information

  • Gender

Recent Profile Visitors

558 profile views
  1. Payline name

    Dresser bought PayLine division and later did a joint venture with Komatsu that didn't go well. Komatsu ended up buying out the Dresser side to keep their foothold in the US market. Komatsu later sold the loader and dozer/pipelayer designs to a Polish engineering company which formed Dressta and continued to build off the IH designed loaders and dozers/pipelayers for a while. About a year or two ago LiuGong (a Chinese company) bought out or merged with Dressta. About a year ago the new Dressta loaders came out which appear to be rebadged LiuGong loaders, and the old IH designed loaders were discontinued. My guess is LiuGong wanted a time tested bulldozer design and bought Dressta to have the bulldozers. As far as the "Payloader" and "PayLine" names I haven't seen the Payloader name used on the equipment since Dresser owned it. On an interesting note the PayHauler was not sold to Dresser but sold separately to Terex. Maybe this breakup is why "PayLine" was never used after being sold. I have been wanting to have decals reproduced and maybe some cool IH PayLine or Hough T-shirts made to wear to the shows, but nobody will reproduce the logos because nobody knows or really cares who owns the naming and logo rights to Hough, PayLine, ect. However if someone knows a contact for this I'm all ears. From what I understand each company knows nothing and says its not them who owns it.
  2. Hough HF Payloader

    The old HF has been pretty handy so far. I think I can justify the $300 master cylinder now. After that and cleaning the crud out the fuel tank it should be a pretty sweet unit. Been running it off an outboard boat gas tank since the fuel tank plugs up rather often. Can lift a Scout body tub easily and can man handle future projects around the yard.
  3. Hough HF Payloader

    Well... I dun did it again and I allowed something big to climb on my trailer and come home with me. Picked up a 1953 Hough HF Payloader last night from a friend. Got a pretty good deal, everything works except the brakes and the gear shifter is stuck in a gear. Starting my search for a master cylinder for it today. I don't really have any questions yet, but I just wanted to show it off to fellow IH construction enthusiasts. I am curious why they would put the drive wheels on the back rather than the front where it would make sense. Having weight on steer wheels doesn't make sense either. Especially considering they made models at this time that where front wheel drive and rear wheel steer. Winching it up onto the trailer. Got it loaded! SAY "HUFF"
  4. 1967 ih 1100b

    So when you say side shift you mean that there are two levers on the side of the transmission to shift it? Meaning it is (or was) a 3 on the tree(column shift)? Is there an issue with the transmission or are you just wanting to freshen it up? I have had a couple of 69-70 IH trucks with column shift 3 speed manuals and about 90% of the issues I had with it was caused by shift linkage. I have a couple of these transmissions laying around if you are in need. Cant help you with the fuel tank.
  5. Sloppy shifters

    Great! Thanks for confirming that number for me. Makes me feel better about ordering it. Yes, all the pieces are available separate or all 4 as a kit. Seems to be much less expensive for the kit. The part number for just the shaft is 404855R1, and a quick Google search for that number will bring up the A&I replacement.
  6. Sloppy shifters

    Is this the kit with the all original style parts? I am needing to do this to my 856 but the $220 price tag makes me cringe. However sure beats the price of buying the pieces individually. I believe this is the A&I kit. I have seen mention of an inner bushing that's not included. I think it goes inside the big cylindrical piece in this kit. I read you have to get this bushing from CASE IH still. I believe the inner bushing to be CASE IH #398274R1 but the parts diagram isn't as clear as I'd like to see before dropping $62 plus shipping. I believe the inner bushing is #11 on this diagram however in the picture it looks bigger than the outer piece. Can anybody confirm this before I spend the $? #9 is also listed as a "bushing". "Range transmission shift support" PN# 398273R1 No Longer Available #10 is listed as a "sleeve cylinder". "Sleeve, transmission shift support" PN# 404855R1 #11 is listed as a "bushing". Transmission cross shaft" PN# 398274R1
  7. Engineers speaking at redpower

    Was anyone able to make a video of the speakers happen? I really wish I could have been there for it.
  8. 1994 gm tbi issues

    Have you talked to Bill Hamilton of Hamilton Fuel Injection? He's over on the Binder Planet forum and a few others. He is extremely knowledgeable on the GM TBI system and he helps many of us convert our Scout's and other classics to run GM TBI systems. I think his name on the forums is Bill-USN-1. He would be the person to talk to when troubleshooting the 87-95 GM TBI systems.
  9. Engineers speaking at redpower

    I would love to see a video of these speakers! I hope someone will make this happen. Unfortunately I'm deployed this summer so I wont make it this year.
  10. IH Marked Dealer Toolboxes

    I know Maple Hunter makes a few of the common IH dealer decals. Another place to check is Scoutco Products in Harrisonburg VA. Its a print shop and Scout Light Line dealer. The owner is Mike and he has a lot more decals than are listed on his website. Give them a call and ask him about the decal you are after. He may have it in his computer and can make you some. He has made me many for my restorations.
  11. Beautiful job! I didn't see any pictures of the dash/steering wheel. Does the system you installed use one of those roller wheels against the steering wheel or one of those goofy looking big center steering wheels? Or were you able to retain the original IH style steering wheel and make it auto steer hydraulically?
  12. TD-141 engine stuck

    So the engine is not supported at all by this crossmember? All the support is at the rear of engine? What is the grease zerk for?
  13. TD-141 engine stuck

    The rod attaching to the clutch lever is the upper rod bent 90 degrees upward at the rear. It looks to be to engage and disengage the clutch when using the winch from the rear. With this picture can you say for certainty which lever (inner/outer) does what? This winch certainly is a monster! I'm rather anxious to play with it. I know very little about judging the wear of the undercarrage. The gear teeth aren't razor sharp so I think that's a good thing. Any opinions on my undercarrage life?
  14. TD-141 engine stuck

    Thank you all for the encouragement! I talked to the owner when I was out there today. She was happy to see me still trying. She said I have all the time I need to try to get it going. That was a relief. I love the idea of using the 3020 remotes to lift the blade! Hopefully it wont be necessary but just in case its a great option. Headed out to the dozer today to spend my Easter Sunday trying to free this beast. Poured more ATF/Acetone down cylinder #1 and it didn't take much to fill. So I took the rest and dumped down cyl #2, #3, #4 for good measure. I put the pry bar on the ring gear in the starter hole and pushed with everything I had with hopes it wouldn't slip off and smash my hand. Unfortunately no progress yet with turning. I still think its a little strange that I can get a slight wiggle when prying on the ring gear, but when I pry on the front of the crank it is rock solid. Possibly because its cylinder #1 that is the suspected problem child. However I noticed this grease zerk covered in crusty dirt behind the front crankshaft pulley. I looked at how the front of the engine is mounted and it looks as if the front of the engine is attached to the cross member by the front of the crankshaft going through a bearing? Could it be that this bearing is seized and working against me? And the reason it feels so rock solid when prying on the front of the crankshaft?
  15. TD-141 engine stuck

    Went out last week and tried my Harbor Freight pry bars on the ring gear. Unfortunately it didn't budge. But I also took along my cell phone bore scope and tried to shove it down the compression release valve. It was ALMOST small enough to fit. I could see inside but not a well focused image. However I did notice that cylinders 2, 3, and 4 looked grey inside, and cylinder 1 looked brownish red. So I think cylinder #1 is the problem child but I couldn't tell to what extent. So I mixed up what I had left of ATF and Marvel Mystery oil and filled cylinder #1. I think I need to get more acetone and add it this week to thin out my concoction. At this point I think I have had oils in the cylinders for about 3 weeks or more. Friends are telling me I should walk away at this point because even if I get it freed up it will never have compression on that cylinder and I'd have to get a sleeve and piston which are made of unobtainium. It was also suggested I pull the head and put heat on the piston head. I don't think I'm equipped for that out of the trunk of my car and I have heard you cant get head gaskets. I don't want to walk away just yet because its so cheap and in pretty decent shape in my eyes. Thanks for the kind words on my trailer. I take a lot of pride in my equipment. I custom ordered it new last year while I was deployed. Has 12K oil bath axles and electric over hydraulic disc brakes. They are amazing! Hauling that IH bucket truck down the Raton pass was nothing for those brakes, like I was empty. It certainly wasn't cheap but it will hopefully last me my lifetime. The Raton Pass isn't the worst I have been over but it can be scary. 9 years ago my girlfriend had a nightmare that I lost brakes coming down the Raton Pass with a trailer and went over the edge. Call me superstitious but that women's intuition stuff is real and it scares me every time I'm hauling across that pass. The levers all move freely except the winch stuff but I didn't mess with those much. I just hope the clutches aren't stuck. But I guess I won't know until it runs. The rod on the clutch goes back to the winch and allows you to engage/disengage the clutch from the rear winch controls. That would be awesome if that was a hi/low! I realized I have a friend with a big truck and lowboy trailer. Now that I have my CDL I'm hoping I can bat my eyes and trade a pallet of beer for the use of his equipment to move this. lol Not sure if the Deere 3020 has the guts to lift the blade parts but that will be my backup plan. I think the blade and such will go nicely on my trailer if it has to, then haul the tractor separate.