Binderdan

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About Binderdan

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  • Birthday September 26

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  1. Plow identification

    Well I went to pick up the plow today and a few other things came home with me too... IHCPloughman was correct it had those stamped on the blades. So it must be a J.I. Case plow. Still not sure on a model. Ended up buying a 1964 John Deere 4020 diesel powershift. And a Cub Cadet 122 as well. I think I did good today. There is the skeletal remains of a Farmall 450 LP for $300 I may go back for if I can justify it. Had a later model IH square baler too.
  2. Carlisle tires

    I hope they aren't too bad. I just put two Carlyle tri ribs and new wheels on the front of my 856. I was surprised to see "Made in USA" on them. Best looking thing on the whole tractor. I guess time will tell...
  3. Plow identification

    It is located here in southern New Mexico. It is very dry here. I don't think this plow has been used in many years but you are right about it looking like it was recently used. You rust belt guys would be blown away working on western equipment. Not much need for PB Blaster here. I am originally from Indiana so I don't miss the rusty stuff.
  4. Plow identification

    I made a deal on this plow for $400. I think I got a fair deal. Missing the wheel but I can find that. No marking as to a make or model. I think it might be a J.I. Case but I don't know. I want to see if I can get parts like shares and mold boards. It has what looks like a hydraulic motor to roll it rather than a ram like most I have seen. I hear Oliver made plows for other makes but I don't see a similar looking Oliver on Google search. Any ideas on what make and model it is?
  5. Moisture testers

    $500 for a moisture tester!?!? Now I'm kicking myself for selling this gem in its original box on ebay for $250. Figured some AC collector would want it. No wonder it sold so quickly.
  6. 56 and 66 series sloppy shifter rebuild

    The old bushing must be pressed into the sleeve making sure the holes on the bushing align with the holes on the sleeve. Then drive the sleeve into the dash tower. I cleaned out the hole well before doing so to make it drive in easier. Use something in between the sleeve and your hammer to avoid mushrooming the end of the sleeve or damaging the bushing. The detent springs install on the reverse and range collars like this. Except they go onto your new collars, not the old ones like I started to do in the picture. Before sliding the collars on I put a film of silicone grease on the inside part. I may regret that someday since I live in a dusty area. But I did it so there's no going back now. I also reinstalled the speed lever shaft and woodruff key. I reinstalled the shift pivot collar and installed the shift lever using the new bolt. It fit so much nicer than the old one. I also put some silicone grease on the shank of the bolt where the shift lever pivots. I ran into an issue with the reverse collar. The casting of the collar interfered with the one beside it. So I took my grinder and ground the upper inside portion to clear the other collar. Looks so much better and fits so much tighter too!! Reinstall the speed lever onto the shaft and tighten the bolt. I used some anti-seize on the threads of the bolt. Then I reinstalled the shift housing and covers. After replacing these worn out parts and adjusting the linkage it shifts so much better!! I had about $300 in parts for this project and it took about 3 hours. I hope someone has found this helpful and informative.
  7. When I bought my Farmall 856 Custom one of the problems I faced was the range/reverse shift lever was very sloppy, to the point it wouldn't function without assistance from a pry bar or screwdriver. I did a lot of internet searching and found many threads about this as it seems to be a common issue with the 56 series and 66 series Farmall tractors. Unfortunately all of the information I found was scattered and had no pictures or part numbers. This thread is to help others that were in my shoes wishing to see what they are up against before tearing into it. This project was undertaken after other shift linkage issues were corrected. All loose roll pins were replaced, along with bushings and ball and socket joints in the shifting linkage. I started by removing the cowl cover, then the gear shift cover, and shift lever housing. Now all the shifter pivot points can be seen. This is the worn out stuff that needs replaced to make your tractor shift like new again. Unfortunately this projects is not cheap. The new parts I purchased for this project are shown above. I bought the A&I kit containing 4 parts. A-404855R1 is the large cylindrical sleeve the collars pivot on. A-529489R1 is the range collar. A-387987R1 is the shift pivot arm (the small collar). A-529490R1 is the reverse collar. I also purchased the bolt for the shift pivot arm since mine had worn out threads. Its is an A&I A-397986R1 shown on the right of the above picture. I purchased the detent springs shown in the center. Case IH part number 397991R1. I disconnected the ball and socket joints to begin disassembly. Don't mind my wiring mess. The new harness is the next project... Remove the bolt from the speed shift lever and wiggle it, working toward you. Some penetrating oil helps. When it comes off you will also need to remove the woodroff key. In hindsight I wish I had bought a new woodroff key rather than fight the old one back in. The old collars on mine were two piece, the new replacement ones are single piece. Takes oil and some wiggling, prying and hammering to slide the collars off. The 15/16 bolt head holds the range lever onto the collar. Mine had damaged and loose threads. Its easier to remove now rather than after the collar is off. Slide (or pry and beat) the collars off. Now the collars are off you need to remove the woodroff key so you can slide the inner shaft (speed lever shaft) through and out the other side. Removing the woodroff key was a pain and it was slightly mangled. I was able to use a file and remove the damage from removal. I pulled the speed lever shaft out the other side and cleaned it up with emery cloth and a rag. Now the sleeve that the collars pivot on needs to be removed. It is pressed into the dash tower. The bushing in the center must be retained to go into the new one. Unless you bought a new bushing. I did not. I used a tire spoon that fit through the speed shaft hole and beat it around the edges of the sleeve being careful not to damage the bushing in the center. It came out nicely. There is another method using a pipe, washers, nuts, and all-thread to make a puller as seen on a YouTube video but I didn't have those things laying around. I used a brass drift to beat the bushing out the other side of the sleeve. I don't recommend this. A press would be ideal.
  8. TD-141 engine stuck

    After returning from deployment I finally got a chance to try to break the engine loose after sitting since March with diesel and other concoctions of oils in the cylinders. I went over and took a long pry bar to the ring gear and starter hole and gave it my all. Unfortunately it didn't even budge. After many attempts with all my might I finally decided to call it a day after the pry bar slipped off the tooth and I smashed my thumb into the oil pan. Although I won't say I have officially given up on it I have accepted that it will probably not be freeing up without major surgery. I may add some oil occasionally when I go visit my friend and try to turn it from time to time just to see. But unless I could somehow get it home I won't be doing surgery where it sits. The best trucking price I got was almost $3000 because it needs winced on. Way too much for something with so many unknown conditions. R.I.P. :'(
  9. Payline name

    Dresser bought PayLine division and later did a joint venture with Komatsu that didn't go well. Komatsu ended up buying out the Dresser side to keep their foothold in the US market. Komatsu later sold the loader and dozer/pipelayer designs to a Polish engineering company which formed Dressta and continued to build off the IH designed loaders and dozers/pipelayers for a while. About a year or two ago LiuGong (a Chinese company) bought out or merged with Dressta. About a year ago the new Dressta loaders came out which appear to be rebadged LiuGong loaders, and the old IH designed loaders were discontinued. My guess is LiuGong wanted a time tested bulldozer design and bought Dressta to have the bulldozers. As far as the "Payloader" and "PayLine" names I haven't seen the Payloader name used on the equipment since Dresser owned it. On an interesting note the PayHauler was not sold to Dresser but sold separately to Terex. Maybe this breakup is why "PayLine" was never used after being sold. I have been wanting to have decals reproduced and maybe some cool IH PayLine or Hough T-shirts made to wear to the shows, but nobody will reproduce the logos because nobody knows or really cares who owns the naming and logo rights to Hough, PayLine, ect. However if someone knows a contact for this I'm all ears. From what I understand each company knows nothing and says its not them who owns it.
  10. Hough HF Payloader

    The old HF has been pretty handy so far. I think I can justify the $300 master cylinder now. After that and cleaning the crud out the fuel tank it should be a pretty sweet unit. Been running it off an outboard boat gas tank since the fuel tank plugs up rather often. Can lift a Scout body tub easily and can man handle future projects around the yard.
  11. Hough HF Payloader

    Well... I dun did it again and I allowed something big to climb on my trailer and come home with me. Picked up a 1953 Hough HF Payloader last night from a friend. Got a pretty good deal, everything works except the brakes and the gear shifter is stuck in a gear. Starting my search for a master cylinder for it today. I don't really have any questions yet, but I just wanted to show it off to fellow IH construction enthusiasts. I am curious why they would put the drive wheels on the back rather than the front where it would make sense. Having weight on steer wheels doesn't make sense either. Especially considering they made models at this time that where front wheel drive and rear wheel steer. Winching it up onto the trailer. Got it loaded! SAY "HUFF"
  12. 1967 ih 1100b

    So when you say side shift you mean that there are two levers on the side of the transmission to shift it? Meaning it is (or was) a 3 on the tree(column shift)? Is there an issue with the transmission or are you just wanting to freshen it up? I have had a couple of 69-70 IH trucks with column shift 3 speed manuals and about 90% of the issues I had with it was caused by shift linkage. I have a couple of these transmissions laying around if you are in need. Cant help you with the fuel tank.
  13. Sloppy shifters

    Great! Thanks for confirming that number for me. Makes me feel better about ordering it. Yes, all the pieces are available separate or all 4 as a kit. Seems to be much less expensive for the kit. The part number for just the shaft is 404855R1, and a quick Google search for that number will bring up the A&I replacement.
  14. Sloppy shifters

    Is this the kit with the all original style parts? I am needing to do this to my 856 but the $220 price tag makes me cringe. However sure beats the price of buying the pieces individually. I believe this is the A&I kit. I have seen mention of an inner bushing that's not included. I think it goes inside the big cylindrical piece in this kit. I read you have to get this bushing from CASE IH still. I believe the inner bushing to be CASE IH #398274R1 but the parts diagram isn't as clear as I'd like to see before dropping $62 plus shipping. I believe the inner bushing is #11 on this diagram however in the picture it looks bigger than the outer piece. Can anybody confirm this before I spend the $? #9 is also listed as a "bushing". "Range transmission shift support" PN# 398273R1 No Longer Available #10 is listed as a "sleeve cylinder". "Sleeve, transmission shift support" PN# 404855R1 #11 is listed as a "bushing". Transmission cross shaft" PN# 398274R1
  15. Engineers speaking at redpower

    Was anyone able to make a video of the speakers happen? I really wish I could have been there for it.