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About 1958560

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 07/20/1974

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    Huron, SD

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  1. We're in east central SD, I'll check it out, thanks
  2. Yeah, we're looking for a parts tractor to update the 806. The 966 has a weak engine, but he's got a combine engine lined up to put in it. I just didn't know if the back of a wheatland is interchangeable with row crop pieces. Thanks for the info!
  3. Got a friend that can get a 966 hydro very cheap if he can find parts to put a pto and 3 point hitch on an 806 wheatland. Do most tractors have the shaft in the trans to hook pto to? I've never been around wheatlands, he says rockshaft freeze plugs are there to cover holes, can a top cover from a 806 rowcrop be bolted on for ram and controls? How about draft tube and sensing linkage? The 966 would be a nice tractor, but he's wondering what he might be getting into, thanks, Rob
  4. Helped bmp my neighbor on a 11000 hr mx110 a few years ago with a vibration, replaced flexplate which looked suspect, broken spring inside and loose, but didn't fix problem. U joints were good, had to replace yoke which slid into trans, splines were loose enough to create a wobble. He got a used one from salvage yard, new was around 700 iirc. That seemed to fix it.
  5. Ive ran a white for the last 7 years, the row unit parts are similar to deere or kinze and seed meter is very simple, just a disc and two brushes. To me, air pressure is easier to deal with than vacuum. I can get near perfect stands and have had over 200 bpa corn in at least one field for the last 4 years. Mine has variable rate drive which I think makes a big difference on varied ground types in same field. Possibly could hire it done for close to ownership costs, but timing is never right it seems and at the end of the day I have a machine worth something at least. Most parts are available aftermarket cheaply, just need to check over and do the work. Nearly 100% no-till here so planter is most important tool!
  6. Ok, thanks! He said if its a major teardown not to do it now before haying season
  7. Hey guys, an older gentleman brought me his 3020 because the pto keeps turning, anybody know anything about these? Wrong color I know! The tractor is a gas powershift, I have a buddy looking for his manual but hasn't found it yet. Is there any adjustment externally or is it a wet clutch type with a worn out brake? Really didnt need another project but i seem to have a soft spot for the old fellas in the neighborhood, thanks
  8. Measurements looked the same, thanks
  9. Broke a spindle just inside of inner bearing last night. I have had trouble with keyway getting wallowed out so I was wondering if I can install 86 series spindles and taperlok arms. I have 8 bolt hubs also. Will the tie rods adjust correctly for toe in? This tractor has a F25 farmhand loader on it, and gets used/abused daily, thanks, Rob
  10. Kinda my guess too, might plant small grain someday to get a cover crop in
  11. Anybody know about what an 810 header 21 ft weight? Neighbor has one on an online auction, might go cheap but I may not ever use it. Just wondering for s salvage value for worst case scenario, thanks, Robert
  12. Exactly, I'm afraid to use heat for fear of ruining a seal and still not able to get pump off, not sure if I could even get heat where it needs to go to free pump from shaft
  13. I've replaced axle bearings on 4/560s before and knew that axle had to come out some to get bull gear off, so I expected the same here. We decided to put on new seal and see how it works. Also replaced trans main and countershaft bearings and seals. Needs pto seal, but cannot get pump to budge on shaft. Have a 2 ton bottle Jack against shaft thru pump hole and chained onto pump. Have been trying to soak and beat/pry but no luck. Any suggestions? Thanks
  14. Thats what I thought, there is some wiggle in the bearing, which is why I wanted to remove the retainer. Can the bull bear be moved enough thru the pto hole to get the retainer out? Also, how thick is the retainer, tractor has an f11 farmhand loader mounted to the axle, best I have is 7.5 inches clearance, is that enough? I'm afraid that a new seal won't hold, how loose is too loose? I get around .030 to .040 inch play up and down on the bolt head screwed into the shaft
  15. I got the band cover off and removed the brake drum/pulley. Then I removed the six bolts and threaded 2 back into the seal/bearing retainer to remove the retainer. The seal is leaking and I can see that the brake shaft will move up and down too much for the seal to hold. The retainer doesn't seem to want to come out, is there something else I need to do to remove the retainer? I don't have a book, and cant seem to get an M to come up on the caseih parts website, thanks Rob