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About Hooked66

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    Farming and Tractor Pulling

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  1. International 966 rebuild - high oil pressure

    A lot of people have been having issues with the quality of reliance parts. I have ordered multiple 400 series kits from them. What I have found is that the gaskets are usually pretty good. Sleeves and bearings are usually ok too. The pistons are where I have ran into trouble, usually with bad finishing on the pin holes or ring grooves. For me, it has only been things like one piston out of the six is in bad shape. I ordered all this online from Howard enterprises. The good news is that when I have issues, I call them and they have no problem sending me a replacement piston, sleeve, or whatever was bad. I know receiving bad parts is not fun, but when the company has good customer service, it makes you feel a little better. But, the majority of parts I have installed from reliance have given zero issues. Nice rebuild pictures, by the way!
  2. 1486 oil filters?

    If they are from a dealer they should both be Fleetguard LF3316.
  3. "Farm Stock" pulling

    When I first started pulling my 1066, I had a custom drawbar that went in place of the stock one with a hooking eye welded on top of the actual drawbar. There is not an easy way to get to 20" with the stock hanger setup without making one, especially with 34 inch rubber I'd guess. Mine had 20.8-38 rubber and still wasn't quite at 20" with my stock modified drawbar and it was up as much as it could go. You're probably about right with 12psi in your 34's. I run my 20.8's anywhere from 16-18psi. The best way to gauge this is to look at the holes you dig as you pull off the track to see if they are concave or convex. Also my thoughts on gearing for more "stock" pulling is that speed is not always the best answer. Depending on how the track is, etc. spinning out in a lower gear can usually get you farther than powering out in a high gear. I suppose this could be said for almost all classes, but it seems the more power they have, the more forgiving the gear choice is. Good luck!
  4. DTM Farms

    Are you sure it is not the hammering noise that those injection pumps can make? I wonder what noise a slightly loose idler gear bolt would make. That could make quite a ruckus but I wouldn't think it would just be at idle. An injector misfiring or injector issue sometimes can be heard as a popping noise out the exhaust (especially noticeable with a straight pipe). A valve issue usually has a hissing noise when starting the tractor. After checking everything easy with no improvement, I would be looking at the wrist pin bushings or connecting rod bearings. You could crack the oil drain plug to look for shiny metal flakes in the oil just for a quick check. I don't know for sure but those are my thoughts! Good Luck!
  5. S2e vs 3lm466

    You'd be just fine with either turbo. S2E will whistle more if that makes a difference to you. I doubt you would notice much of a difference in performance between the two at your desired HP level.
  6. Square head bolts

    About the best deal I've found is through Case IH. They are about $7 per bolt, but that's not too bad considering they are fine thread and square head. 7x24= $168 (for 38 inch hubs). Then you can get nuts and lock washers from McMaster Carr for a good price.
  7. Bringing back to 'life'

    The only thing I'd see as a problem is if the fuel has gummed up. Seems to be a real problem with today's bio fuels when they sit. Good luck
  8. main frame gaskets

  9. IH 966 tire choices

    If you want to get serious with the pulling then do not buy new tires. A set of radial all traction Firestones at about 20% or less tread is what I'd try to find. I wouldn't be afraid of a good set of BF Goodrich Powersaver radials either. I have both and honestly, I like the BFG's for pulling, but the Firestones are pretty good too. If your tractor has 34 inch centers you will either need a set of step up rims or wedges. Personally, I would look for a set of 38" wedge lock hubs before going with step up rims.
  10. 756 Jumpin' Gear

    They don't typically have issues with popping out of gear as long as the detents in the shifting mechanisms are functional. The shifters should have a firm snap when they are put into gear. Even with some wear, they usually don't have too many issues. Just make sure you have decent enough brakes just in case.
  11. Arithmetic Problem

    There is only one correct answer and that answer is 50.
  12. Dt466 crisis, please read

    If there doesn't appear to be much oil getting up to the valve train, I would be looking at the head gasket. Oil comes up from the rear cam bearing, then goes through the head gasket. There were some changes throughout the years with how oil got through the head gasket area. Older engines had a passage through the block itself. Later engines used a gasket with a slot to get the oil where it belongs. I have also heard of a gasket partially blocking this passage. However, if you put an old style gasket on a new style engine, the valve train will not get any oil.
  13. 13MM AMBAC pump

    IMO, I would either go with an out of the box 3lm-466 or make the jump to an s300. Unless you have to be stock appearing, a 3lm special would just cost more money than an s300. Also, for stock pulling, a 3lm special is overkill depending on your location. An s300 is a great step up from a 3lm. I have a 1066 that I pull anywhere from 11,000 to 13,000Lbs with 20.8x38 tires. It is a 414 with a 13mm rotary pump and a box 3lm turbo and no water injection or intercooler spinning 3000RPMs. You would be amazed at how much horsepower the box 3lm is capable of supporting if you upgrade the cam, do mild cylinder head work, and get everything right from top to bottom of the tractor. Granted, the 3lm is the limiting factor on my tractor. If I put on an s300 or whatever, I could get way more out of my setup, but rules are rules. I have never used a gear slower than high 3rd on the track, unless there was a speed limit. In fact, I usually run faster than third and spin out on most tracks with the 3lm. I have even used road gear on certain tracks with good success. The tractor usually zips down the track around 18-22MPH This goes to show that the 3lm is better than many believe it is when you start pouring fuel to it, and for the cost, it is hard to beat for a farm stock tractor.
  14. Farm stock pulling. Lots of questions!

    I guess I can take a stab at a few of your questions. First, as Danny mentioned, you will not be sacrificing much HP by staying at 414. In fact, a 414 is just as tough as a 466 when they are set up right. You will especially not notice the difference with the desired power output you are after. Now, on to the ol' 3lm-466. The 3lm is a lot more of a turbo than a lot of people think. With a maxed out 10mm pump, you will be no where close to the power limit of the 3lm. With that being said, however, a 3lm is a perfect, cost effective turbo for what you want. In my experience, a 3lm with a maxed out 10mm pump will do exactly what you described. High first with 20.8-38 or high second-ish with 18.4-38 tires. The next step for power is to get a bigger head in the pump. Whether that's 11mm or 13mm is up to you. With an 11mm head, you could still probably farm with it. With a 13mm head, you will not want to use it on the farm. You would be getting at the limit of the factory lines and injectors with 11mm delivery. Your head gasket will be short lived once you start getting more fuel, and unfortunately, I don't know when the head gasket becomes a problem for sure. On to the clutch. I personally wouldn't want to push the stock cast flywheel past 2850. I'm sure they could handle more, but I wouldn't want to push the limits and find out the hard way. EGT's will be something to watch, but I wouldn't worry about them too much. I'd say try to not let them get much above 1300-1400, but stock pistons will handle 1550-1600 in short bursts. Start at stock or maybe slightly advanced timing. Advance timing to adjust EGT's.
  15. Oil Fliters

    These are the kind of posts that drive me insane. Someone has a legitimate question about filter brands and there are only a few out of many replies that actually provide thoughtful information on the original question. The OP is obviously aware of all the different filter brands available including OEM. It seems that a lot of people confidently claim that brand x and brand y filters are the only acceptable brand of filter no matter what. They should try to come up with a reason not to use Baldwin. The fact is, Baldwin makes good filters. I have used them over the years in everything from my pickup to my combine. I have bought Fleetguard filters from case IH and noticed "Made in Mexico" on them. I can tell you as a fact that most if not all of my Baldwins on the shelf say "Made in USA" on them. Not like that is a huge deal, and I will say it again that I am not complaining about Fleetguard. After all, who knows, Baldwins may be better than OEM, even though I can't prove it. All I'm trying to say is that unless someone has actual data that proves otherwise, Napa is probably just as good as Baldwin which is probably just as good as brand X which is probably just as good as brand Y ....... Especially for our 25, 30, 35 and even 40+ year old machines.