DWV

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About DWV

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 04/06/1948

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    Male
  • Location
    Near Jackson and kanawha co. line WV

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  1. W-6 lights up on grill 29474 up. W-6 wheel, clamp type 501-45872. For loop wheels 45873 up. Also a special 20 inch wheel and rim with 5 attaching bolts was available. WD-6 serial numbers a little different for wheel changes. Dave
  2. Bolt supply places that supply steel erection bolts have them. Dave
  3. 656 has a small frame bell housing but the rear end is stronger than a M. Dave
  4. Both are correct. Combo light was listed as a attachment though it seems the most common one used in some places. Dave
  5. Was keeping subject on 350 tractors, meaning 350 Gas, LP, and other fuel except diesel when I said others on left.
  6. Easy to spot the diesel farmall 350. Exhaust exits on right side of centerline and exits on left side others. Dave
  7. Bill 45108D? is the distillate kerosene carburetor. Your gas carburetor would have had a one screw choke plate and shaft. Check out Mcdonalds carburetor & ignition web site. They have the one screw shaft if you still have the plate. Later carburetors had the two screw choke shaft and plate that seems to be better to use. They have a carburetor rebuild kit with 2 screw shaft and choke plate included for less than $50. They also have the little friction spring and ball if not in the kit or needed. Never had a problem ordering parts from there. Dave
  8. Is a NP 241- C included in the problem. Have one with 200007 thousand on it? Dave
  9. for a Farmall 300 and 350 work, 300 units before a serial number break used a steel pipe and threads in the intake pipe of air cleaner for the vent line. After the break 300 and 350 used a PCV type hose to a pipe on air cleaner intake pipe. PCV hose can be adapted to work on the earlier air cleaners if wanted. Dave
  10. Ones in the lower bolster forward facing 2 hole flange are 3/4 coarse thread. Measure what thickness added and flange thickness for length. Dave
  11. Threads and double nut is so the spool can be adjusted so lands are centered in valve body when operating lever goes to center. Centering springs are on the same rod the nuts are on down in the spool. If centered before and double nuts not changed that should be good. Don't need to keep belly pump lever pulled back now. can use it for one way hydraulics to something else if ever wanted, just stops when clutch is disengaged . Dave
  12. You could if the operating lever was blocked forward and stays there. But if it comes back oil will get blocked from going back in the sump. If your going to use the drain for the suction line, Put a short nipple and tee with a plug in bottom so it can still be drained. Put another nipple looking forward and another tee to suction line. Run a 1/2 inch hydraulic hose down to the second tee from relief valve. If all parts are still inside the belly pump and the belly pump drive has been removed it would just make it harder to get suction to the engine pump like it is now. Ports on the side of housing still only let oil flow back in the ports drive dog or not when operating lever is forward. Dave
  13. Relief vale should have a range around 1000 to 1200 PSI. Usually adjustable, try 1000 so it will be safer on the pump drive parts. if you need more I wouldn't recommend going over 1250 PSI. It can be plumbed in where the arrow is pointing at the Christmas tree valve. It will have a third opening for dumping oil back to sump if it pops off. Probably need to run a hose from it to a tee in the suction line at the lower plumbing. If the belly pump is intact the only other place to dump bypass oil back is the fill opening. Dave
  14. Forgot to say with the bottom lever pulled back the Christmas tree valve should still raise and lower hitch. If not the Christmas tree valve has a problem or you have a blockage somewhere. Also with a working belly pump whenever the wheels stop rolling the suction to engine pump drops. Now you are pressure feeding the engine pump when transmission countershaft is turning. Dave
  15. If all the original internals are in the belly pump the only way to get suction to engine pump is when the lever in front of belt pulley is pulled back. Even if the belly pump is gutted the suction line is to high. Move suction line to bottom of belly pump housing by drilling and tapping for a fitting, or some use the drain hole for suction but it's only a 1/2 inch pipe thread opening. Get the suction fixed and all you do is move the top valve lever back and forth to raise or lower hitch. Really should have a pressure release valve between engine pump pressure line and the valve to limit pump pressure unless you want to replace damaged engine or pump parts. Dave