Tractractor

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About Tractractor

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 04/23/1938

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  • Location
    SE Pa.
  • Interests
    Hunting, Grandkids, Working on my projects.

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  1. Charlie, if you wind up needing a head, let me know. Jere
  2. I use Autolite 3077
  3. I do have NOS fuel filters for these machines. Military surplus. I also have a spare fuel pump with most of the parts. Jere
  4. RD engines were used in the R & L model trucks. The RED engine was used in the KB model trucks. Only slight differences between the two. I am about 5 miles from Lancaster, Pa. Jere
  5. I have heard they were used mostly for trucks that had to go up over the Rocky mountains on their runs. Supposed to give them more H.P. I have a NOS RD (for L & R model trucks) maniforld (no carbs) I would like to trade for a RED manifold (for KB trucks). Jere
  6. I use Autolite 3077. They should be available.
  7. The brake linkage is set up on an eccentric wedge type linkage with a wedge plate turning to apply pressure to the brake plates. Remove the round covers (which are the rear brake plates, to view the brakes. They probably only need cleaned up & the linkage lubricated. The brake pedal works through a shaft to the eccentric plate. That may need cleaned up also. Without the drain hole plug, lots of critters can make the brake area their home. If a lot of work is needed, remove the whole rear plate to access the internal works. You can see the steering clutchs & if any seals are leaking. I found a dead rat in the transmission sump on mine. Jere
  8. Good to see some old tractractor posts on here again. Binder Books in Oregon, USA has all the manuals for the 35's & 40's. They also have a chassis manual for the TD40 which will work for the 35. Spark plugs would be Autolite 3077. They should be extended tip type for fast starting. The motor except for the pistons & sleeves is the same as the 40. A parts book & the red motor manual are a must to work on these antiques. Once you get them, it will be easier to work on. I have a parts machine but am probably to far away to ship parts. My 35 is a 1939 with factory starter bell housing & 45 degree head. It is all apart. I drove it into the shop. Good luck, Jere
  9. Thanks for the reply. I am aware of the MTD new splined spindle. I have found a used spindle & a bracket. Will make do for now. Thanks again. Jere.
  10. Working on my 126 steering, I have a left spindle that is welded to the top bracket. originally, the spindle had a pin to attach to the bracket. Once the pin hole got worn and developed a lot of play, one way to fix it was to weld it. Now, how to get it apart. Grind off the weld I guess. I want to take it apart to bush the axle to tighten up the spindles. My question is-has anyone come up with a better way to keep the spindle and bracket from wearing with out welding it? Keyway it? New spindles are very expensive these days. Any ideas appreciated. Thanks, Jere.
  11. I'm pretty sure that the brake disc's are the same for the T20, TD35 & TD 40's. The track clutch disc's on my TD35 are also used on some Cletracks. The back cover just pulls off. Should be NO oil in there. You need new seals for the two drive shafts that the track clutchs are on. Engine clutch is IH. Track clutch is different. There is no service manual for T20 or TD35. Use the service manual for the TD40 as everything is nearly the same. Jere
  12. I'd send you a photo of mine, but it is all apart. Jere
  13. TD6 starter is a Delco Remy 12 volt, #779. It was used on TD6, TD9, T9, WD9 & ID9 tractors. May have been used on other brand equipment. Have no reference to them. Hopes this helps, Jere.
  14. The fire ring sealed engines had a special relationship of fire ring to head gasket. The head gasket would compress just enough to compress the fire ring to seal both areas. When WWll came, the copper ring were discontinued & replaced by iron rings. Grinding any material off the ring would not be recommended as there wouldn't be enough material to make a seal. Try FP Smith to see if they have any iron rings left. Only other alternative is to reuse the copper rings after annealing. TD40 engine manual describes how to anneal the rings. "Servicemans Guide to International Diesels" -BinderBooks. Original thickness of the copper rings is .129/.131". Jere
  15. Unfortunatly, T20 head is different than an F20. Bigger valves & different head gasket. Manifold may be the same, I forget. If you need any spec's for the engine, I have some of them. Jere