kj1086

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About kj1086

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  1. one 5288 two 5488 at my shop
  2. there is a choke mode for those tractors first set at full idle then move the cutoff lever just before it hits the detent spring supposed to get more fuel tohelp cranking
  3. you should not connect all the wires together as one need two jumper wires to connect the wires at the regulator harness don't know which ones to connect will try and look at work
  4. there is a hose mount,clamp that is bolted to the lift cover if its missing would cause them to crack
  5. yep got one
  6. we have used piston jack plates and drive them from inside out would drive the seal retainer out at same time just use long bar and go through your rear wheel casting along as you don't have duals when going back we put bushings in the freezer over night and a heat light on the housing and lighly bump them in
  7. i have a 1086 that we removed the cab to replace the roof and panels and refurbish it with the shop crane and bent the drip rails ,does anyone know how the factory installed the cab or what they attached to with a jig any help or thoughts would be appreciated
  8. I have a 856 wheatland we trying to restore can anyone tell me if the bolts with loose washers for front hood are painted or left plain steel also the serial # is 9061 if anyone can tell me what that means thanks for your help
  9. I would pull the plate in front of seat to see if there is something blocking the linkage
  10. if been sitting for awhile could be carbon come loose and stuck on top of piston
  11. does this happen when your turning and picking up your impliment
  12. mike can you show us or tell us what a update kit consists of did not see it on your site
  13. ace, I will do the best I can ,most of the time the hole for the ball is worn out so I take 1/2 in x4x4 plate drill a 3/4 hole in the plate just off center and press the ball through the plate,now on the front of the yoke where the nut went I taper it so the lock wedge fits the taper(the wedge is 3/4 what is used to lock the axle to hub on big trucks)I use 3/4 lock nut on the ball ,after the plate the ball could be little longer on threads but have not had any get loose ,grind the backside of the yoke flat to fit plate,tighten nut and drive ball and plate till tight then weld plate to yoke ,paint it and hard to notice not stock ,I hope this explains better ,I have got to figure out how to send pictures!
  14. if you are rebuilding frontend do not use the washers ,we try to get front axle as close to or rubbing the front bolster so the pin will be farther in the bushings,do this by spacing stabilizer ball farther back,if the ball is loose and most are drill hole in 1\2 x4x4 plate press new ball in use 3\4 wedge lock on threaded end of ball install nut and tighten nut weld plate to front axle yoke .this wil take up space of washers.i have used this many times at my shop no returns ,would send pictures if I ever figure it out ,
  15. sounds like you are talking about the front pump or steering and ta pump,did you lose steering or your your rear hyd. if rear hyd then yes check signal line screen first it is in the fitting that connects the line to the rear pump