Matt Kirsch

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About Matt Kirsch

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  1. No. You still need to get something to pull the tractor up the hill to relieve the pressure on the transmission so you can shift it to neutral, then you need to let it down the hill and tow it to a shop where you can split the tractor and figure out what broke.
  2. AgriSupply sells them. I believe you can get a version that fits in place of the fast hitch and a version that uses the stock rear cultivator rockshaft. Another place, Tony's Tractors if I'm not mistaken, also has aftermarket 3pt hitches.
  3. Oak dowel works too. They're wet sleeves, so there's not much holding them in place with the head removed. They should pretty much pop out with one good hit. Once they're out of the block you might be able to press the pistons out and save the rods without all the drama of a cutting torch.
  4. You got two problems. First, like others have said, your TA is out of adjustment. On the side of the tractor where the clutch linkages are, there is a short bar running from the clutch rockshaft to the TA rockshaft. Every time you press the clutch this short bar is supposed to shift the TA into low range to allow you to shift. In high range, the one-way clutch in the TA unit causes the gears to bind slightly, and makes the tractor difficult or impossible to shift. On flat ground the test for this would be to shift the TA into low and see if the tractor shifts smoothly. If it does the TA is definitely out of adjustment. DO NOT PULL THE TA where the tractor is sitting. You WILL go for a scary ride back down the hill. Second, something failed or broke between the clutch pedal and the main clutch. If it is external it should be obvious. However if all the linkage from the clutch pedal up to where the clutch rockshaft disappears into the tractor looks okay, the problem is internal, and will require splitting the tractor to fix. It could be the throwout bearing that has failed. You need another tractor at this point. It is not going to move on its own without some repair. You will need to hook a chain on the 560 and pull it up the hill a little bit to relieve the pressure so you can shift it. Then you will need to tow the tractor somewhere you can work on it. Wish the news was better, but unfortunately this kind of stuff comes with running old tractors.
  5. I watched a 7110 MFWD that looked used but not used up sell for $13750 at an auction here about a month ago, and they had to work to get that much. Bidding stalled at $7000 initially. I should've jumped in but I didn't because I fell for the "What does everyone else know that I don't?" routine. Oh, and Craigslist isn't the best place to find cheap used ones either... There's a 7220 on a nearby Craigslist with 9000-some hours on it and the guy wants $46000. Makes the ones on Tractorhouse look cheap by comparison. It's exactly what I want but he's about $15000 high if you ask me.
  6. Make sure the distance between the arms on the fast hitch is the same as the distance between the pins on the 3pt hitch implement. They aren't always like that.
  7. Or at least so it doesn't happen again until you can get it fixed right. The key is to shift in a "square" pattern. Most of us get lazy and run the lever diagonally from gear to gear instead of going straight ahead/back to take the tractor out of gear, then straight sideways to select a different gate, then straight ahead/back to go into the next gear.
  8. When you parked the haybine last time, did you set the transport locks and float the hydraulic valve before disconnecting, or did you just yank the hoses out? Since it's the hose that lowers the haybine, it is most likely got pressure on it. You need to support the haybine and CAREFULLY loosen the coupler from the end of the hose to relieve the pressure. CAREFUL because hydraulic oil will SPRAY because it's under pressure. You have to leave it loose until the oil stops spraying, and if the haybine is all the way up and unsupported, it will be a LOT of oil because the haybine will have to lower all the way to the ground before the pressure will be relieved.
  9. If your goal is a working tractor, and the diesel engine is pooched again, you can easily find a usable gas engine for not much money, put it in, and have the working tractor. At least for the time being. Park the diesel engine in the back corner of the garage for the day when you work up the courage and the cash to attack it again.
  10. That's a good idea. It's a lot easier to pop off the valve cover on the C than drop the pans on either one. If it was sabotage you should see a pile of sand on top of the head on the C.
  11. Aren't the planetaries a weak point on the 15's, or is it a matter of the "weak" planetaries of a 15 being stronger than the bull gear drivetrain on a 14?
  12. Is the feedback system on the teladepth connected and working? You need to follow the Rube Goldberg contraption all the way from the hitch cylinder, up along the platform, to the steering pedestal. I've seen these disconnected, but when they are you can usually find a "sweet spot" where the hitch will stay put and the hydraulics will unload. If everything is in good order, the problem is likely internal to the teladepth valve. Parts are NLA, so your only choice is to replace it with a regular valve.
  13. The ground is like cement. It is VERY tough plowing ground unless conditions are just right. Basically, you take however many bottoms you think a tractor should be able to pull, and subtract one.
  14. Judging by how many 756 gas tractors you see for sale these days and how few diesels, the gas seems like it was much more popular. Makes sense because a lot of small farms still only ran gasoline powered tractors in the early 1970's. There were a LOT of 706 gas tractors sold in the area I grew up in. Seemed like most every small farm had one as their big tractor, and there were a LOT of small farms around. Not a lot of 756's but the ones that were around, were gas. 806 gas was pretty popular too, about 50/50 with the diesels.
  15. So you think it would have better traction WITHOUT the fluid in the tires? I think if I went to Dad with that, he'd write me out of the will! He is decidedly old school about fluid in tractor tires: tractor's helpless without it. No idea what it weighs, but it is heavy. Would have to truck it 45 miles to the nearest CAT scale.