Matt Kirsch

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About Matt Kirsch

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  1. Isn't the 504 distributor the same mechanically as all the earlier 4-cylinder engines like the letter series up through the 140/240/340? It should use the same points as an H or an M, I'd think.
  2. You can also go to RADIAL tires for additional height. Some brands of tires are bigger around than others too.
  3. My understanding is that the head is the part that's not available. Everything else is. Not cheap, but you can get it.
  4. I knew I kept Dad's old Lincoln buzzbox around for a reason.
  5. No. They're not designed to do that. You need to add an aftermarket valve and connect it to the system. In addition to the valve you will need a hydraulic bypass block, which will install between the existing FH valve and the hydraulic block under the gas tank.
  6. I'm intrigued by 1586 Jeff's suggestion about getting the bolt hot with the welder. Do you just pile up weld on the head, or connect the welder directly to the bolt somehow? I remember hearing about using a welder to thaw frozen pipes by connecting it at both ends and letting it buzz.
  7. The outputs for the cylinders on those valves are on top. They are already connected to the loader. You can't use them for rear remotes unless you disconnect them from the loader.
  8. 340 uses the same distributor housing as letter series, hundred series up through the 30/50 series, and Cubs and 140's through 1979. Obviously they didn't add the tach drive until the hundred series. Tach drive parts are the same. I bought all the parts for the tach drive from Steiner's a couple years ago, the gear, the housing, and the retainer, for my Cub. It wasn't cheap but they had the parts. BTW, I believe the gears have always been plastic.
  9. You could replace the spool valve with a power beyond plate, then plumb in as many Prince valves as you want. In this case it makes sense because that's exactly what you're trying to do, not adding a loader valve to existing valves.
  10. I have had such good luck with welding nuts on broken off bolts, I think I would simply grind the heads off these bolts and do that. Once the frame rail is out of the way there should be plenty of stud there to weld a nut to.
  11. I've split many cords of wood with a 5220 Maxxum which is rated 20GPM and 80HP. Not impressed. The engine driven splitter will run circles around it, and the hydraulic cylinders are identical between them. Had the hydraulics flow rated on the Maxxum. They're fine. Nobody knows why the splitter cylinder moves slow until it contacts the log.
  12. You can get the 212cc Harbor Freight engines for about $120 any day of the week. They are phenomenal engines, reliable, and a good replacement for a 5HP Briggs.
  13. I looked up the 300 pump on Worthingon. It's something like $1100. Looks like they dropped the price on the 400 pumps and jacked it up on the 300 pumps to make up the shortfall.
  14. Is this a 756 like the American 756 from the late 1960's, or something different? If it's the late 1960's tractor, the clutch is a purely mechanical, dry clutch. No hydraulics involved. Is the tractor revving and just not going anywhere? If so it's probably the main clutch. Does it have a TA?
  15. Yeah, $900-$1000 has been the going price for the camshaft-driven hydraulic pumps for these tractors for several years. IMHO a used one is too risky. You are more likely than not to be buying someone else's junk, and you'll spend $300+ for the privilege. So instead of just sucking it up and dropping $1000 on a new pump that you know is going to work one way or another, you are now spending $1300 on a used pump that's no good and a new pump that you should've bought in the first place... What's your brake problem? Brakes locking up? Unless the old actuators are broken beyond repair, there's no need to replace them, and replacing them won't do you any good if you're having the lockup problem. The problem is a combination of wear, and the actuators are only a small part of that. The REAL solution to the brake lockup problem is to have the brake drums milled down so the clearance is back in spec. Right now there's too much total gap between the braking surfaces and the brake disks, which makes the actuator go past its design limit, i.e. "over center" and lock the brake up. If you know someone with a Bridgeport they can do the machine work to the brake drums.