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About hoodeleydoo

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    Schoharie NY

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  1. Pictures of new paint TD7G

    Looks great. New decals really do it! All you need now is a nice shiny blade from dozing I hope that is the best reward! Good job
  2. 1936 WA-40

    Hi. Saw the pics and the video. This is great. Looking at the post and noticed the date. Do you still have the tractor? I have. 1936 T40 that I have never got running. Engine is about the same thing. Was going to try working on it this winter. Happen to have any detailed pictures of the engine and intervals?
  3. Looking for a little knowledge

    Looks like a typical Mennonite adaptation. Go with what makes you happy
  4. Farmall Regular Cracked Block?

    I use a arc welding rod purchased from "muggy weld". The name is unusual but the rod works great. I have welded theee blocks in varying degree and they are working great. The one crack between the holes is not going to go anywhere if the crack is entire they the thickness of the web and there are no unusual webs below the deck that the crack can continue to travel. However the antifreeze will seep into the bolt threads and cause issue over time. You can check out my recent t340 post in construction to see the webs I welded with it. Feel free to ask questions. kevin.
  5. T340 steering clutch

    I put some pics of my t340 I recently got running in the construction forum. I tried uploading a video but if didn't like the format.
  6. T340 steering clutch

    I have a td340 that Needs the whole clutch and brake service. Holding to do this over the winter. Also needs a lot of track and roller work. Ugh. Very interested in your pics
  7. IHC 345 cc engine distributor wire question

    Adaptive dwell? Sounds interesting. What does it do?
  8. IHC 345 cc engine distributor wire question

    yea- you could make the wire between the distributor and the primary coil is 18 or 16 gauge stranded (nothing special) - could probably get away with a 22 but why bother. regarding the resistor - the resistance is needed in the positive (battery or ignition switch) circuit to the coil. Be careful about the ballast resistor. it is usually by-passed on the startup circuit but engaged always afterward. The resistor drops the voltage to the coil to approx 7 volts. on my old stuff I dont bypass it (ballast resistor is always in the circuit to the distributor) becuase its an extra circuit and if you have a good coil I never had an issue. as for the coil - be careful because there are some "internal resistor coils" i have no experience with them except the one time i used one, it failed after 20 seconds. i'm not sure what running a ballast resistor with an internal resistance coil would do - probably reduce the voltage to 3volts on the primary and probably get a very weak or useless spark. I also never heard of a ""resistance wire". i'd think it would generate too much heat and melt. sure it wasnt referencing the resistor wire - meaning the wire going to the resistor? either way the wire between the distributor and coil doesnt get a resistor. hope that helps
  9. early model t-340 Drott rebuild & pics

    more random pics but this time more of "before". the engine are pics where I welded up the cracked inner cylinder deck. it had fatigue cracks thru the thickness on one web and stating on the other two. the red liner is a top from a plastic coffee can - i needed that to protect the sleeve counter bore as the cast iron rod I used flashed over VERY easily thru the flux coating. thats another long story and lesson learned......
  10. Paint Color - 1934 TA 40 crawler

    howdy, I have 1936 T-40 that is mainly rusty but had the same question. It has been painted yellow sometime in the past. I can have a look tonight when I get home. i was hoping at some point to take some parts off and find a remnant of the original paint. Unfortunately, most of what I had taken off was either taken off so many times int he past or was rusty, or was painted that I'm, going to have to dig deeper. if i find something I'll take a picture and post.
  11. IH gas 301 timing

    Here is an example of advance data for the early IH 4 cyclometer line. I don't see why a 6 cylinder would be much different. I have the c-135 engine that I was discussing earlier.
  12. 1976 Fleetstar 855 cummins (270) idle adjustment help

    Hi thats perfect. Happen to know how sensitive the idle is to turns of the screw?
  13. hi guys, I think im going to try to adjust my fleetstar idle. I have fresh fuel in it and have been using some fuel treatment cleaner (Lucas). its still too low. I think an additional 100 or 200 rpm would be just great - it would take the shakes out of the cab (so much I can see out the mirrors) as well as help with the shifting. I thought about limiting it with the pedal travel but thats not the proper way. so there is a tool to do it while running or you can do it by small adjustment when off then start er up and see. i dont have the tool but pretty sure I can make one. anyone have any advice or experience using the tool or not? any advice on any idle adjustments? I also heard that possible injector pump pressure adjustment may help but i'm not too keen on that. The engine runs out just great so I dont think there is an injector or injector pump/pressure issue. Thanks!!
  14. IH gas 301 timing

    HAA! this subject is good timing (get it??). i just went thru this on my recent tractor overhaul. I switched to diesel mindset MANY years ago. I had to brush off the cobwebs to troubleshoot my rebuild. my advance was stuck wide open and it ran horribly across all speeds (of course). once i tuned it, it runs nice (of course). ideally (theoretically) , the timing is set at the advance at the lowest RPM (idle) as listed in the manual. if everything is proper, (weights, springs, etc) the timing will advance where it should all the way up to top speed. My tractor is mechanical advance ONLY and no vacuum advance (that would be in an automobile). I hardly ever run at idle (definitely without load) so I tweak the timing to be where it is supposed to be at my optimum running speed (for me i chose PTO =540 which works out to around 1800-2000rpm). So i set my advance to the book recommendation at 2000 rpm (which happens to be about 18 degrees). as for the rest of the timing, the curve for the remaining rpm spectrum will be what it will be - unless you try to manipulate the springs, weights, and stops. Once timing is set, then I tune the carb. If your timing is correct and your sputtering at different throttle loads, you may be too rich or too lean by the carburetor tuning or by an ulterior means such as having the choke partially closed, a dirty/clogged air filter, bad carburetor, vacuum leak, burnt valve, bad plugs etc etc. as others suggested. My C-135 book recommends 2 degrees advanced at 400 rpm and goes up to about a max of 24 degrees at 2200 rpm (from what i can recall). If i interpret your question another way, I think you may have meant: will/should the timing change if the throttle/load changes while the engine remains at a constant speed - and that answer is that it shouldn't. The mechanical advance amount will remain constant relative to engine RPM regardless of load. on another note - it would change with load only if it had a vacuum advance. so whether your pulling a house or being pulled, at a given engine speed the mechanical advance will be constant. Having said all that, If your advance is changing with load that means your RPM is changing- if its more than a couple hundred rpm then your either pulling too much load or your engine is not tuned properly or getting "worn-out". you should give the engine throttle the time time to reach steady state if the load can be steady - this should be a few seconds for that reaction time. here is more interesting FUN- the governor reacts ONLY by changes in RPM (even very slight changes) from the target speed. the bigger the swing in rpm, the bigger the reaction and the bigger the throttle (closing and opening). This is the cool part- notice how the engine can get loaded and remain under heavier throttle? watch your tachometer. the engine speed will actually be lower than what your target that was set at no-load. It would be cool to document the original engineers design map by mapping out how much throttle our tractors are using per rpm drop (if you had the hood removed and can maintain your work, measure the throttle position, the tach, and hold your beer at the same time). - or get a pto dynomometer. thats the cool part about tractors - that's their "personality" Hope this wasnt too long winded - these topics are the only fun I have throughout the day......... Kevin
  15. td14 cab

    Thanks again Steve!!