trucker1

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About trucker1

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    Southern Maine, USA
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    Truckin' fool from the old school
  1. Do you think pictures 1 and 2 are from a Drott assembly plant?? Everything has a loader on it, picture 2 looks like the two men are tightening up the long rods with nuts on both ends that hold the loader assembly to the transmission case, and the loader to the left still has the counterweight hanging on a chain fall at the rear. Plus no assembly line, looks like they would park a bare chassis and then assembly everything else in one spot. George
  2. I got my facts mixed up, you are right, you can use 10w to 30w depending on the temp, and that is what I do too. but I bought a gallon of 10W to use in the air cleaner cause I thought the 30W was a little too thick for starting it on gas in the winter. Kept flooding the plugs out. It was better after I switched the air filter to 10W. George
  3. The pump only take a pint of oil, and I think the recommended oil is 10 wt, so it would look thin if that is what they used. George
  4. If by head bolts, you mean the stud nuts, it is 100 to 120 ft lbs, lubricated with 30 wt engine oil. George
  5. you should plan on a PTO pump when mounting it, the hydraulics on the machine were a low pressure, high volume system, and the hoe will use a more modern high pressure low volume system. I have no doubt that you can get it mounted and working. George
  6. Serviceman's reference manual shows wide tread with no attachments at 10070 lbs, narrow tread unit is 9825 lbs. That is the shipping weight and I believe it is with no fluids, so a couple hundred more with the fluids. With all the blade and hydraulics probably 3000 more. I would say 14 to 15 thousand pounds complete, but that is just my guess. George
  7. Both intake and exhaust, .019 cold, .017 hot. George
  8. It isn't necessary to use two, but there is room enough for two in there. As long as the new seal isn't running on a worn groove in the input yoke you should be OK. another place that would take two thin seals in place of the old thick seal is in the finals between the ring gear and the dry compartment of the steering clutches. George
  9. I googled it and came up with an Amazon reply https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=SKF+21134+Grease+Seals&rh=n%3A15684181%2Ck%3ASKF+21134+Grease+Seals Order quick, only one left George
  10. 25 gallons is 100 quarts, so 100:1 George
  11. I can't remember for sure, been years since I had one apart, but I remember you have to engage the clutch, pull the lever back, for something. I think it was to get that yoke out of there. Try it. George
  12. it doesn't matter how far down the grouser is worn, the one in the center you are measuring down to will be worn down as much as the two your straight edge is setting on. I made a wrench out of 1/2 steel plate, three feet long. Just barely did the job. George
  13. The seal can be replaced by just taking of the nut off the end of the shaft, pulling the yoke, take the three bolts out and remove the seal holder and seal. NAPA has the seal, it is an SKF, #21134 George
  14. The one in the photo is the heavy duty version, will work fine. If you can get two I would replace them both so they will match. George
  15. Man, is old age setting in. total brain cramp. Louie, you are right. It is the flywheel that won't come up thru the opening, not the clutch. man, do I feel stupid. I guess I am going to have to do a complete teardown and reassembly on one of my crawlers to refresh my memory. But in my defense, It has been 20 plus years since I have had to take one apart. Tanker916, you realize to slide the engine forward you have to take out the 6 bolts on the bottom of the mainframe and jack the mainframe and engine up, and block it up to pull the engine forward? George