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About trucker1

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  • Location
    Southern Maine, USA
  • Interests
    Truckin' fool from the old school

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  1. After I wrote the reply and posted it, I remembered those round covers, and figured that may have been what you were talking about. I will look, but am pretty sure all of my machines came with just holes. That was the problem with them, thumb nuts, that people would not get tight enough to hold and then they would fall out, or the threads would rust up and they would never get put back on the way they should be. Will let you know what I find after the sun comes up. George
  2. No luck on the lights, out of 3 machines I only had one light that I am going to mount on one of the two TD9's that I still have and I need another light to match that one. I need a better explanation of what you call a port cover, never heard of anything called that. George
  3. Yes, busy taking apart 3 old crawler chassis. By the way, you can see my old second favorite tool in the second picture. 12 pound splitting maul. It failed to do the job so it is now my number 3 favorite tool, and of course the fire wrench will always be my number 1 favorite. I am getting to use the fire wrench quite a bit, cutting these 3 old T9's up getting them ready for the scrap man. Saving anything that is good or rare, someone may need them someday. This one had the low compression gasoline/kerosene distillate engine in it, and you can see by the final drive it was a narrow gauge too. Tracks on it were like new so I took them off and put them on my TD91 dozer about 15 years ago. George
  4. I should have done this years ago. I spent two days pounding on the top of the pistons in this T9 engine,trying to get them to let loose. Not concerned about damaging anything as most of this is going in the scrap pile. I finally broke down and made one of KoO's starter tools. With a 5 foot long 2 inch pipe it all popped loose on the first pull. Thanks Joey. George
  5. To remove that pivot shaft, you have to crawl under the machine. There will be a bolt that you remove that is holding two locks, one of which is around a big nut. After you get the locks off, loosen the big nut and then turn the pivot out of the main frame case. That pivot will have a cross cut in the end of it. George
  6. IH called this "curved bar" a diagonal brace. It holds the track frame in alignment, front to back. Think of a triangle, one point being where it hooks to the pivot shaft in the middle rear, one point being where the studs were broken off and the third there the track frame hooks to the pivot bar at the sprocket. Drott loaders did not have these diagonal braced, they replaced the spring in the front with a square bar that bolted to the track frames on each side. I was surprised to see that your loader used the diagonal braces, but that was the choice of the manufacturer who made the loader attachment. I also checked some wheel studs off a Budd wheel that I have and they are 3/4 course thread, 2 1/2 inches long, but I am sure that there may be some wheel studs out there that are the right size and length for you. I also checked McMaster Carr and they have the right size studs you need, grabe 8, but are course on both ends which the wheel studs would be anyway. George
  7. I am willing to bet that it will come off there fairly easy. If 3 of the studs have been broken off then it has probably been moving around just a slight bit on those two pins. Take the connection off the back at the pivot shaft, and the remaining nut and get in there with a couple of pry bars and work it off. If I remember right the studs are course thread where they go into the rear spring casting and fine thread for the nuts. George
  8. Service manual says to line up the "L" mark on the big gear with the mark on the small gear. The "L" mark is for counter clockwise rotation. If the mag is use in something with clockwise rotation, you use the "R" mark, but it says to use the "L". George
  9. See, I told you I wasn't sure, but as soon as Louie said take out the grease nipple I remembered that had to be done too. Thanks for adding that in there. George
  10. You do not need to trim the case or remove the engine to remove the clutch. You do if you are pulling the flywheel out. If I remember right you do have to snap the clutch over center to make enough room to sneak the clutch coupling out. George
  11. I would cut the side out of an empty plastic quart oil bottle and hold it under the plug. Should be plenty of room for that, and be ready to put the plug back in, maybe have to empty it and do it twice. I doubt there would be much over a quart of oil in there, possibly 2 quarts. George
  12. There is a plug in the base that you take out, but there is not a lot of room for something to catch the drain oil in. I think the old timers just pulled the plug and let what oil there was in there drain out on the ground. And no, I never did that, honest. George
  13. Wix lists it as a 51155, NAPA number will be 1155 George
  14. The grease zerk in the photo, to the right of the fan belt is not the one for the pump drive. The zerk in the photo is to grease the front motor mount, believe it or not. that motor mount just slides over the front cover and the motor can move and twist inside of it, thus the need for grease. The zerks for the drive coupling will be in the shaft itself, about an inch ahead of the lower crank pulley and should be two of them, 180 degrees apart. Greasing either one will do the job as they only thread into a hollow tube. I bet yours are gone, and the holes full of dirt. George
  15. And when you put the battery in, it is positive ground, not negative. George