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About trucker1

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    Southern Maine, USA
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    Truckin' fool from the old school
  1. If by head bolts, you mean the stud nuts, it is 100 to 120 ft lbs, lubricated with 30 wt engine oil. George
  2. you should plan on a PTO pump when mounting it, the hydraulics on the machine were a low pressure, high volume system, and the hoe will use a more modern high pressure low volume system. I have no doubt that you can get it mounted and working. George
  3. Serviceman's reference manual shows wide tread with no attachments at 10070 lbs, narrow tread unit is 9825 lbs. That is the shipping weight and I believe it is with no fluids, so a couple hundred more with the fluids. With all the blade and hydraulics probably 3000 more. I would say 14 to 15 thousand pounds complete, but that is just my guess. George
  4. Both intake and exhaust, .019 cold, .017 hot. George
  5. It isn't necessary to use two, but there is room enough for two in there. As long as the new seal isn't running on a worn groove in the input yoke you should be OK. another place that would take two thin seals in place of the old thick seal is in the finals between the ring gear and the dry compartment of the steering clutches. George
  6. I googled it and came up with an Amazon reply Order quick, only one left George
  7. 25 gallons is 100 quarts, so 100:1 George
  8. I can't remember for sure, been years since I had one apart, but I remember you have to engage the clutch, pull the lever back, for something. I think it was to get that yoke out of there. Try it. George
  9. it doesn't matter how far down the grouser is worn, the one in the center you are measuring down to will be worn down as much as the two your straight edge is setting on. I made a wrench out of 1/2 steel plate, three feet long. Just barely did the job. George
  10. The seal can be replaced by just taking of the nut off the end of the shaft, pulling the yoke, take the three bolts out and remove the seal holder and seal. NAPA has the seal, it is an SKF, #21134 George
  11. The one in the photo is the heavy duty version, will work fine. If you can get two I would replace them both so they will match. George
  12. Man, is old age setting in. total brain cramp. Louie, you are right. It is the flywheel that won't come up thru the opening, not the clutch. man, do I feel stupid. I guess I am going to have to do a complete teardown and reassembly on one of my crawlers to refresh my memory. But in my defense, It has been 20 plus years since I have had to take one apart. Tanker916, you realize to slide the engine forward you have to take out the 6 bolts on the bottom of the mainframe and jack the mainframe and engine up, and block it up to pull the engine forward? George
  13. Thanks for that Louie. I have a Td9 and a TD91 and 2 T9 parts machines, and I know they will not come out of the top on any of those. I have seen people posting on here where the housing has been ground on both side so they could get them in and out. They must have fixed the problem on the later series. George
  14. If I am pulling the engine, I would leave it on. If you take it off before pulling the engine, you are lifting the clutch, back plate, and shaft out as an assembly, not easy to do. In my manual, it says to leave it on when pulling the engine, just take the 3 bolts out of the coupling. then in the clutch section it says to remove the clutch assembly out of the top. There are many here who will testify to the fact that on the 9's it will not come up thru the opening, the engine has to be pulled. I don't know if the clutch on the 6's are smaller or the opening bigger. George
  15. farmalldr is right. leave the clutch on the back of the engine and take it off after. you may be able to lift the clutch out of a T6 but on the 9 series which is covered in the same manual, the clutch will not come up out of the main frame without grinding access notches on either side of the case. My manual says to disconnect the clutch coupling, which you have done, but not to remove the clutch before removing the engine. George