trucker1

Members
  • Content count

    331
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About trucker1

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Location
    Southern Maine, USA
  • Interests
    Truckin' fool from the old school
  1. The grease zerk in the photo, to the right of the fan belt is not the one for the pump drive. The zerk in the photo is to grease the front motor mount, believe it or not. that motor mount just slides over the front cover and the motor can move and twist inside of it, thus the need for grease. The zerks for the drive coupling will be in the shaft itself, about an inch ahead of the lower crank pulley and should be two of them, 180 degrees apart. Greasing either one will do the job as they only thread into a hollow tube. I bet yours are gone, and the holes full of dirt. George
  2. And when you put the battery in, it is positive ground, not negative. George
  3. 8625D is the part number for a brake pedal on a T9 or TD9. The serial number we need will be on a plate riveted to the dash, lower left. When sitting in the seat it should be down by your left foot. Tell us where you are, there may be someone on here that is close that can go and give you hands on help to get it going. George
  4. I took a quick look at Binder Books website and they list the same engine service manual for both the 100C and 100E, and it covers 7 different engines. They are reprints, but I have bought all my manuals from them and been very happy with them. The engine manual lists for $25 so not that bad a price. George
  5. My vote is for the final drive area, behind the sprocket. Easy to check like Kevingweq said, pull the bottom drain plug and fish around with a magnet. A lot of ball bearing in that area that had a tendency to come apart and drop down into the bull gears locking them up. And lots of machines with busted final drive casings cause the chunks get between the gears and housings and bust them out. George
  6. I got thinking about this again, and wondered why do you want to change it over to a remote solenoid setup? Is the mechanical linkage shot or missing? George
  7. Sorry it wouldn't let me load the picture of the contact. George
  8. yes replacing the original stud with a copper bolt can be done, anything can be fabricated. I was curious what was under the switch so I took it off and this is what the contact looks like. And on the inside it is slotted and the straps from the coil windings are soldered into the slot. I think I know why they went with the strap holding the switch closed. Looks like replacing the switch with a stud would be quite a project. George
  9. To use the same starter this was one solution that they came up with back in the day. It is a simple "U" shaped strap and flat plate to hold the switched engaged all the time. Then you need a separate solenoid, probably mounted on the firewall, and the cable from the battery goes to that, and as cable from the solenoid to the stud on the starter switch, plus a push button on the dash to engage the solenoid. George
  10. There is supposed to be a spacer washer (thrust washer) between the commutator and the end plate. Is there one in there or did someone leave it out at some time? George
  11. My plans for this motor is to rebuild it and put it back in the Drott loader it came from. Of course that was the plan 15 years ago when I pulled it out (cracked head and burned pistons) and put another motor in it's place. That motor is getting pretty tired now, so I guess now is the time for me to do it, get the machine back to original. There are lots of places listed in the sticky at the top of the forum who can supply almost all parts you would need. George
  12. the pipe next to the tube is the end of the dipstick tube. the dipstick does not just stick down into the oil, it stays inside the tube and the oil inside the tube stay "calm" while the engine is running. that is why you can check the oil while the engine is running, and there are two marks on the stick, engine stopped and engine running. I "think" there is an "O" ring on the tube up inside the block, but it has been 15 or so years since I had this motor apart and the old memory just don't work like it used to. George
  13. There should be a pipe from the oil pump stuffed into that hole. I got excited this morning and flopped my spare motor over onto it's side this morning and took the oil pan off. The pipe runs from the front of the oil pump/balancer assembly around the balancer and up to that hole. And how it attaches to the front of the balancer at the oil pump. Please disregard the dirt and rust. That is not supposed to be in there but a family of mice thought different. George
  14. No size in the parts book for the expansion plug, just a part number. Has this motor been apart?? Or did it suddenly lose oil pressure? There is a steel line that goes from the balancer assembly/oil pump in these 91 series motors that I believe plugs into the hole where you are losing all the oil. but you would have to drop the oil pan to see what has happened. George
  15. I think North of 60 is right. Where mine has the Allen screw looks to be 1/8th inch pipe thread, the size a sending unit might be. And I think there is an oil gallery that runs from behind the oil filter past that open hole all the way to the front. George