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About stageone

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 07/25/1975

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Qeensland Toowoomba
  • Interests
    Land Rovers,Stone buildings, and now dozers.

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  1. Nice work Tanker, you have officially entered the fun stage where sleepless nights end.
  2. Well I guess that's the quick way to get to the final drive! Got a spare track frame? Welding that out would be tricky and take a while. Good to see this type of final dive failure in not unique to Australia.
  3. I think you can leave the steering clutch, but there are studs behind the bull gear that need to be removed.
  4. That's really quite a show piece you have there!! That much detail would drive most people insane.
  5. It's coming along, got to start somewhere. What is this "E" tank you speak of?? Over here I have heard of soaking rusted parts in molasses mixed with water, much like coke I imagine. I have never tried it, but will give it a go just to find out if the people telling me this are just crazy!
  6. It's coming along, got to start somewhere. What is this "E" tank you speak of?? Over here I have heard of soaking rusted parts in molasses mixed with water, much like coke I imagine. I have never tried it, but will give it a go just to find out if the people telling me this are just crazy!
  7. Oh my god!! Looks like something built with parts from a hardware store! I have never seen such a thing in working condition, but I am sure it's a simple unit with seals possibly made from dead cows. Get's really tricky this old, old stuff, so many things can be worn, can have quirky designs and you can't get parts. Still look into the hose set up, but the only sure fire way I know to fix it for years to come is to rip it all off, fit an engine driven pump, modern rams, hoses, valve bank and tank. From the stuff I have seen scraped in the US I am sure you can build something for less than repairing that constantly.
  8. Hi John. Just a couple of questions. Is your reservoir tank the round one with the screw in fill point at the top with a hole drilled in it? If so and the oil shoots out of that when you lift the blade, you have way too much oil in it, that's just a breather. Have you got the single leaver standard HI valve body? And have you changed any hoses recently, did you just buy the machine, or has it ever worked properly? If the rams hold the machine up in the down position with your hand off the lever they and the valve would seem to be OK. I don't know about the original valve set up to much as I replaced mine with a modern valve bank. I would hazard a guess one of your hoses is hooked up wrong and investigate if the hoses that go to the top of the rams both go to the same place. And that place isn't return to tank. Can you post some photos of the lever/ tank assembly showing the positions of the hoses?
  9. Old rams often get scores positioned in the bore where they where they do the most work, that causes a internal by-pass right where you don't need it! Classically a leak down test will seem normal till the piston reaches that section of the bore. I would imagine that's what you have there, Only other thing would be a worn spool in your valve body for that function.
  10. Here you go BTD8.80. These are a couple of photos of how this ripper group is mounted. This set was taken off a btd8 and bolted straight on. Using the draw bar is important and I have pre loaded it with the jack bolts you can see in the photos. The bolts, or long studs at the top go right through the gearbox and have a nut on the other side, you will see the holes for it in your machine.
  11. The oil pressure is 45 psi from idle to max rpm at 1600 and never changes. I believe that's the way the relief valve is set up and they have a big oil pump for the size of the engine. My ripper group pulls from the draw bar and rods that go through the top of the casing. I have heard and imagine it's possible to tear the back of the gear casing out if rippers are only mounted to the back of the box. The rear wall has lots of webs but is quite thin and only cast iron. Have you got a ripper group on it now? Can post a few more photos if required, just a little busy right now!
  12. I really don't think you need one at all. I assume the lift pump on the injector pump was rebuilt with the engine? Even then the lift pump on a diesel injector pump is regulated by the relief valve as fuel exists the rack to return, I have no idea what the psi would be. Looking forward to seeing the painted stuff back and assembled.
  13. People here on the east coast of Australia would be asking $15000+ for it, sell for easy 10. Small dozers are worth a fortune over here right now. There was an old btd6 not running for years ( and looks like it's been chewed on) dozer for sale here the other day priced at $10000, ( totally dreaming sell for $3000). Another, "just needs a water pump", however you can see in the photo the engine is all pulled apart, rusted and the machine has been sitting so long it's sunk into the ground and also in the weather and wants $6800, ( dreaming again sell for $ 2000, parts). Your machine looks good, works, has rebuilt bits, original and 4 in one bucket, might get $12000 sell price here. I really have to start looking into importing quality stuff and see if it adds up. I have seen from my journeys around the world better quality older machines scraped than I can buy here.
  14. I think that is like a cold/ old worn engine start thing. When the cap is pulled up it allows extra fuel flow, opens the rack right up, when the engine starts it automatically closes again. I would also hazard a guess that the fencing wire is an ingenious design to prevent it closing. I have never used this feature on mine so I am not sure what effect it would have.