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About stageone

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 07/25/1975

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Qeensland Toowoomba
  • Interests
    Land Rovers,Stone buildings, and now dozers.

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  1. I really don't think you need one at all. I assume the lift pump on the injector pump was rebuilt with the engine? Even then the lift pump on a diesel injector pump is regulated by the relief valve as fuel exists the rack to return, I have no idea what the psi would be. Looking forward to seeing the painted stuff back and assembled.
  2. People here on the east coast of Australia would be asking $15000+ for it, sell for easy 10. Small dozers are worth a fortune over here right now. There was an old btd6 not running for years ( and looks like it's been chewed on) dozer for sale here the other day priced at $10000, ( totally dreaming sell for $3000). Another, "just needs a water pump", however you can see in the photo the engine is all pulled apart, rusted and the machine has been sitting so long it's sunk into the ground and also in the weather and wants $6800, ( dreaming again sell for $ 2000, parts). Your machine looks good, works, has rebuilt bits, original and 4 in one bucket, might get $12000 sell price here. I really have to start looking into importing quality stuff and see if it adds up. I have seen from my journeys around the world better quality older machines scraped than I can buy here.
  3. I think that is like a cold/ old worn engine start thing. When the cap is pulled up it allows extra fuel flow, opens the rack right up, when the engine starts it automatically closes again. I would also hazard a guess that the fencing wire is an ingenious design to prevent it closing. I have never used this feature on mine so I am not sure what effect it would have.
  4. I am sure not an expert in the field of oil and have forgotten most of the stuff I learnt about it at tec. I do know however there is a lot of "snake oil" and additives on the market to fleece the general public. They "make" the proof that you need it, I have busted a few of their myths and fear campaigns. Quote from the add::"Formulated without friction modifiers to allow for quick and efficient piston ring seating in new and rebuilt high-performance and racing engines. Contains zinc and phosphorus anti-wear additives to protect cam lobes, lifters and rockers during the critical break-in period when wear rates are highest." Well they are sort of right, friction modifiers (silicone based substances) are not to good in a rebuilt engine, or anything with wet clutches. Normal cheaper diesel engine oils don't have them usually but I can't remember why. May have something to do with diesel engine oils being high in detergents to remove carbon from inside the engine. Also I am sorry to say your engine is not exactly "High performance" ( and I bet real race engine builders wouldn't use this stuff either) so the money at $8.50+ a bottle of rocket fuel would be better spent on beer. I would just get a cheap oil of the right weight and run with it till your first service, dump it and then replace with a quality oil.
  5. Yes those 2 dowels can take a bit of moving. I jacked my machine up and out of the track frames then took the braces off afterwards.
  6. I didn't check to see if the engine was a AD or a BD. I know when I tried to date my yellow machine that is a apparently a TD6 that some believe is American built, the gearbox/final is really one of the last built in Doncaster UK, went nowhere, number is to low. I think things got really funny with serial numbers applied to machines assembled and partly built here in Australia. That one it the photos is early I think but the front idler and wheel weights could make it later?? I think this machine was bought second hand in the late 60's.
  7. And the other side. Neat original machine, won't rust much out there. Engines in these are easy to get parts for here, am thinking about it.
  8. Pump driven hour meter still intact.
  9. These are the best tracks I have seen here. I love the crank handle!! I would also like to see someone try to use one.
  10. While I was out there I also came across this thing, much safer than the super loader. Apparently the engine made some horrible noises and stopped. It was then towed to this, well sort of a shed and has stayed there ever since. The blade group is still sitting out in the paddock where it died. I imagine I am not the first person to restore a machine, that should oh been scrapped, at moderate expense only to be now tripping over much better examples of the same machine after the fact!! Again apparently I can take it away, but it's so remote it would cost a fortune to haul, and I already have one. Thinking about it however, there are enough original parts in good order to make this one a cheapish "as factory built" show tractor.
  11. No, I rebuilt them. Should be some info and pics in this topic somewhere.
  12. You must be getting to the exciting stage. Bolting clean, painted and repaired parts back together is always the best part of a resto.
  13. I guess this is where the operators would sit seconds before they died, or at best very injured. Nice ROPS fitted at some time but I don't think that's the real problem. This thing can stay where it is!!