mudmakerhf

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About mudmakerhf

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  • Birthday 04/25/1951

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  • Location
    Farmington Minnesota
  • Interests
    IHC Tractors and Trucks
  1. Sleeve and block damage

    If you do not have a crack in the block, but think you have some wear gaps under the broken pieces, LOCK TIGHT makes a sleeve backer product.
  2. Custom decals

    I painted my U4 even though I am missing several clutch parts. IH used the Rockford clutch line and the U4 uses a SAE #4. If someone knows of a source for these parts please post. Hugh
  3. Custom decals

    Maple Hunter site, International Harvester, Misc., page 2 bottom left. 14 1/2" White INTERNATIONAL with black outline. Item # VI1001B. $6.00 each. I bought a vinyl cut set from them for the W4 I just painted, and gave one of the "W4" in circle to a guy I know that has a decal machine and he found a U and 4 in one of the machine standard fonts that looks close and says he will make a pair for me. I haven't seen a picture of a U4 with the circle decals where the "H" or "W4" on the respective machines but mine will have them. The W4 hood is longer between the back of the hood and the bend in the bead where the circles go, 26 1/2" and the "McCormick" decal is 22 1/8". The "U4" is 19 1/4" long so I think the 14 1/2" should look correct. At one time I thought You could buy individual decals for the oil filter and air cleaner, and I thought it was Binder Books but they do not show them on their web site. I was able to scrounge some from some old decal sets I had. Your machine has the short oil filter so you need the small rectangular oil filter decal. The older machines with the tall filter use the larger "Purolator" decal. If someone finds where individual decals are available please post. Good Luck!! Hugh
  4. What is it...

    Back to the device at the start of this thread. If the outside threads are 9/16 fine it may be a H4 magneto impulse coupling puller. The inside should be a large enough bore for the mag shaft to fit in and the inside tread for a push bolt. Remove the nut, thread is device in, and run the inside bolt down. I would like to have one. I have to barrow a buddies. Hugh
  5. W4 Cast Wheel Removal

    All of that heat will do a number on your paint. After you get the wheel off of the axle there is very little to get a hold of on the seal ring and the bearing is recessed into the axle housing so nothing for a puller to grab. It can be cut off but there will more than likely be slag blown into the housing. (The seal must be changed from the inside of the cap.) The ring has to come off to get the cap off. I tried welding two 5/8" fine thread nuts to the ring and used a good sized slide hammer with no success. I miss spoke in the above post. The second push can be against the bearing. The ring is tall enough that it will not push on the cap and break it. There is a pin in the ring that engages a spline on the shaft so it doesn't spin. My recommendation is remove the PTO, it is easy to get back in. Hugh
  6. W4 Cast Wheel Removal

    I did a W4 last year. I drained the transmission oil. Then removed the PTO. you can set the brakes or block the wheels and remove the bolt and washer that holds the bull gear on the axle inside of the transmission. Put a small wedge, (like for adjusting a wood door frame) under the bull gear because it will drop just a little. Remove the four bolts out on the axle cap and the axle with outside bearing and seals should pull out with little difficulty. Take it to a machine shop that has a press but remove the wheel with one push. Then block under the ring that the seal rides on for the second push. Do not try to do it in one push or the ring may get distorted. If you need to replace the inside axle bearing the axle housing can be removed but it is a lot lighter and easy to handle with the axe and wheel out of it. Hugh
  7. Update 300 U oil high on the dip stick + hrs

    When you have the distributor off and change the points and condenser be sure the advance weights and springs are not stuck, not very likely with that much oil in there but a good thing to check out while it is apart. After the dist. is back on before you turn over the engine you should static time the dist. Put a ohm meter lead on the wire post that goes to the coil and the other lead on the dist. body. Loosen the small bolt on the clamp between the dist. drive unit and dist. body and rotate the dist body clockwise (retarding) from the rotor side until you have a circuit. Then turn it counter clockwise, advance, until the circuit just opens and tighten the clamp. Be sure that the coil has the correct polarity. If the battery is positive ground, the points wire should go to the positive post of the coil. I've seen several tractors that were converted to 12v alternator w negative ground where they added a resistor to drop the voltage to the dist. and not change the coil polarity. Hugh
  8. Update 300 U oil high on the dip stick + hrs

    I just did this on my 300U. Before you pull the distributor and hydraulic pump be sure to set the engine on TDC on #1 cylinder. The timing marks on the 300u are on the right side of the engine front, opposite of the H and M. And you want to be on the last mark on the pulley as it passes the pointer. The first ones are advance markings. Find the #1 plug wire on the distributor cap and mark that tower on the dist. were the cap meets the dist. body. Then remove the cap and turn the engine over until the rotor points to your mark on the dist. body and the front pulley TDC mark is at the pointer. That makes it much easier to time going back together. The parts book shows two different pumps and IHC didn't have the seals. Mine had C/R 8844 seals on both sides. I Think, I will have to verify. It wasn't a perfect fit on the distributor side, but that is as close of a size I could find and it seams to work. On the dist. side there is a coupling that has a counter sink style screw in the center, then it pulls straight off of the shaft. I had a lot of trouble getting that pulled and I had to tack weld a 5/8" fine tread nut on it and use my slide hammer. Then I did a lot of filing to get it to side back on without hammering. There is a splined shaft with a tee on the end to engage the coupling on the pump to drive the dist. This will fall out easily but when you have the dist out you want to clean that out and put in new points and condenser ect. and it is easy to figure out how to time that shaft to the rotor. good luck!! Hugh
  9. Farmall H Carberator

    There is one passage that is easy to miss. When you take the main nozzle out there is a passage that runs vertically from just inside of the casting almost under the screw that holds the nozzle, up to the idle jet on the top of the bottom casting. Hugh
  10. H axle housing removal

    I had to remove the axle housing on a W4 last winter. The bottom of the axel hosing needed to be welded. Very similar to H but much more sheet metal to work with. If you remove the housing with the axle in it, the axle should come out of the bull gear since it is running in oil. I did it though the PTO opening. The bull gear only drops about a half inch and was easy to get started going back together. Much easier to deal with axle bearings, inner and outer, off of the tractor. Hugh
  11. what is guy supposed to do?

    Be aware that there is a frost plug in the front of the block behind the timing gears plate, at least there is on and a TD6. See if you can consult a parts book. Those rot out and are only a couple of bucks. Of coarse there are gaskets issues and it's a lot of work to get to. I think there is one or two behind the flywheel also but I think they would leak into the clutch area and not into the crankcase. Hugh
  12. 248 Engine

    Lock tight makes a sleeve backer product. I used it on a U264 one time, I don't remember the product number. I would look into that. Hugh
  13. farmall M leaky axle housing

    I just went though this with a W4. You can pull the PTO and get at the bolt that holds the "BULL Gear" on the axle. I would remove the wheel from the axel first, just to make the pieces easier to handle. Check the inside axle bearing while you have it apart. I put the bearings and axle shaft in the axle housing first, then used a bar to pry up on the bull gear to get it started on the shaft going back together. Good Luck! Hugh
  14. WD-9 hubs

    Yes that is how I got the W4 apart.
  15. WD-9 hubs

    I recently went through this with a W4. I had to change the axle seals and the bull pinion seals and one bearing on one of the bull pinion shafts. I could not get the collar in question off. I welded a nut on it and tried a slide hammer with no success. Since I had the top of the transmission off I took the bolt out of the bull gear and the axle with the outer bearing, the collar and the seal cap came off in one piece. I then took it to a press and pushed the bearing and collar in one push. I was concerned about breaking the cap but the bearing butts up to the collar and the seal cap was not harmed.