ycanby

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About ycanby

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    SE Ohio
  • Interests
    Farming, machinery, welding, heavy trucks
  1. Farmall 656 gas Exhaust manifold replacement

    I had pulled the manifold off to replace the gasket, which had blown out on the forward exhaust port. Ordered new extra thick washers on ebay and when they arrived I put it back together with new bolts. Did the least I could do before firing it up and testing it for leaks. It was leaking in the exact same spot where it had blown out before. Took it back apart and gently cleaned up the exhaust part of the manifold where it contacts the head. I could tell the exhaust ports were all slowly deteriorating, but the intake ports were like new. After chipping off rust flakes with a chipping hammer , and a gentle brush with the grinder I put it back on the tractor. Tightened her down evenly and fired the tractor. No leaks, was totally surprised. I let it get hot, then tightened the bolts again, and finished putting it back together. Went ahead and ground two loads of feed with it, then retightened the bolts a bit more. all seems well though I suspect only for awhile. I noticed that the exhaust manifold metal where it seals to the head is definitely thinner than the intake metal. Sooner or later will have to replace the exhaust manifold. That leads to a couple questions. In order to part the one from the other it does seem best to cut the heads of the four bolts holding them together. At this stage will the two separate easily leaving the four headless studs sticking out of the intake, or will they still need persuasion to come apart? Also what is the heat riser that is mentioned often here. I take it it may be a flapper that cases heat from the exhaust manifold to warm the intake when the engine is cold. Seems when I bought mine in 1985 it did have a bimetal coil on the outside of the manifold , but it soon fell off and the rod that it turned has long been seized. Is that thing worth reactivating? I know the tractor is cold natured when first started, but once it warms up it runs fine. Thank you all for the help!!, YC
  2. Hello, I has wondering if anyone had experience with the new replacement exhaust manifolds for the C-263 engine. Is there any problem getting them to match up and bolt up with the existing US made factory intake manifold? Also what is the best way to get the four long bolts out that hold the two together. Looks as if they have been on there for 52 years. I can't see it being very easy. Thanks in advance! YC
  3. 706 Hydraulics

    Hello Pete, Is that unloader valve under one of the big hex head plugs on the right side of the seat base? Thanks for the help!
  4. 706 Hydraulics

    Hello, I have a F706 that I just recently purchased. Pretty decent old tractor. I had a couple questions. The tractor has one hydraulic remote which the quick connects are mounted straight out of the big square housing that the seat is mounted to. While moving round bales the other day, using the draft arms for the first time , the only way the arms would raise is if I pulled back on the remote lever after having slid the draft arm control handle all the way back to the lift position. The draft arm control handle would let the 3 pt arms go down by sliding it forward, but the arms would not come back up if I did have the handle in the lift position AND pull back on the remote lever. Is this normal for these tractors? I also have a 656 and a 1066, both of which operate the lift arms entirely separate from the remote lever. Also wondering should we work this issue out is it possible to put a second remote, lever valve, lines, and outlets on this tractor? Thanks for the help!