Baradium

Members
  • Content count

    292
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Baradium

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Salcha, Alaska
  1. Krone RF-200 gear oil

    The idea is for them to replace a plow. We have a 4 bottom plow now as well and actually used both of them this time. A pass from each made for a really nice smooth surface, we're doing hay and not a normal row crop but the machines are meant to be usable for row crops.
  2. Mice

    Thank you, the picture alone was worth asking!
  3. OH MY !!! (auction)

    Apparently a working one is very rare and in general they aren't really common. Sounds like they weren't a super common option and even then most were thrown away over the years.
  4. Mice

    Can you post a picture of this setup?
  5. Krone RF-200 gear oil

    Definitely planning on trying to source the bearing locally. Their price is around $850 for the bearing alone.
  6. Suitcase Weights

    One of the guys with the fire dept here in AK has a farm in MO still that he has been working to get the old equipment from up here. He's been renting out the old farm house with plans to sell it once he got his equipment out, he went down over the summer to pick up some stuff and found the renters had started stealing whatever they could to sell for scrap. They even pulled the radiator and weights from his running 560 tractor. I didn't ask, but I imagine if they were to the point of taking stuff off the tractor anything in the barn that was unattached is long gone.
  7. Professional restoration

    If it's a functioning tractor I agree that it may be worth more unrestored to the right buyer than restored, because then they know what is done and not done to it and the quality. Especially if being an early unit is part of the value.
  8. Krone RF-200 gear oil

    It's more than a few drips is the problem, although after 2 days sitting it stops dripping at all.... The 4020 is nowhere close to the 756 in low range speeds (4020 is synchro-range). It needs another lower range on the transmission IMO, we have a loader on the 4020 and I've thought about how much better the 756 would be just because of that. High side TA 1st low on the 756 is slower than the lowest gear I can get on the 4020, I need to do an actual comparison, but 2nd gear on the 756 on the low side might even be slower if and is probably not any faster at least. Between that and how the draw bar and lift arms mount to a plate that is attached using a pin that goes through the hydraulic reservoir (for no good reason), as well as having to change PTO shafts to swap between 1000rpm and 540, the 4020 is just a PIA. The pin going through the hydraulic fluid (that is prone to leaking) really aggravates me. The 756 also burns a lot less fuel.
  9. Krone RF-200 gear oil

    Thanks DD, I don't know how easy it'll be to get that grease up here, since we don't have corn or cotton, but I'll look for it. moly-grease and 140W I can probably find though. Side case is gear drive on this machine, has a top fill port and a fill to port on the side as well as the drain. With the slip clutch, I imagine they anticipate the clutch taking care of excess power with larger machines. Our 4020 with the larger engine should be around 100hp pto, but as I said, the 756 does a much better job anyway due to gearing.
  10. Krone RF-200 gear oil

    No, I didn't... guess I should go there first next time!
  11. Krone RF-200 gear oil

    Thanks a lot for the input. This is far from a new unit, although Krone seems to support it pretty well so it would have been cloned off a long time ago. The gear box is multi speed, but there are (or were) more gear sets available from krone for it, this one is configured for 540PTO, but 1000rpm was standard with a 540 conversion available. The manuals for it spec 70-150hp recommended for this model, it's just under 7' working width and weighs in at 2110lbs. We started off running it with our 4020 JD which is slightly up-engined but that tractor doesn't have a low enough first gear for our liking so we have it on our 756 IH now and it seems to pull it perfectly. I'm thinking of loosening all the bolts for the slip clutch though and making sure it isn't stuck or try to free it up if it is. My next problem is that I noticed an oil leak from the side gear case at the seal where the actual tiller shaft comes out. Gasket for the gear case cover and seal aren't too bad, but the parts supplier quoted me $750 for the bearing. Think I'm going to dig into it with the gasket and seal handy and look at that bearing before I order it at that price. We didn't pay that much for the machine...
  12. Life in Alaska

    As sturdy as your boom setup looks, I think that'll be your lifting limitation
  13. Life in Alaska

    I saw that tractor going down the road, he had a normal moose buggy on the trailer IIRC. I wondered if that's what he was doing with it, while it's an interesting setup, I'm not really convinced that's really the most practical moose buggy. You've been quite busy with that new truck I see. You have a counterweight in mind?
  14. Krone RF-200 gear oil

    I have a krone RF-200 tiller that I recently acquired, I'm in the middle of servicing it as I'm certain it hasn't bee done in a long time. The manual calls for SAE-90 gear oil in both the gear box (which is 2 speed) and the drive to the tiller section. The manual does not call for EP gear oil. I'm trying to decide whether to use 90W EP gear oil, 50W motor oil (same viscosity) or search for 90W non EP gear oil (which can be hard to find). I know that the EP additives can harm manual transmission, but I think that is primarily the synchros. Is there anything I should worry about with EP additives on this?
  15. Thiokol Snow Cat

    I'd love to have something like that, but I can tell you that you can spend a LOT of money on that kind of equipment. Friend of mine had a Nodwell and spent $30,000 getting it fixed up right. A lot of the real high dollar stuff is track related, especially because people will skip maintaining them because of parts expense so a weak part will take out another one that should have been fine. There's a guy around Anchorage that buys up scrap SUSVs from the army and uses them for parts. He gets $20,000 for a bare engine block for them, although they are a bit more modern machine that was also sold to civilians.