Fred B

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About Fred B

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  1. i think i have the 3 wheel oliver back up. fred
  2. That Oliver row crop was a fine tractor in its day, foot clutch, wedge lock wheel hubs, steering wheel at a nice angle, automatic steering brakes, tall back wheels, a well designed engine, some of its faults were turning brake pedals were on each side of the tractor, (couldn't operate right brake and clutch at the same time) and even though it was built from 1931-47 with very little change,(only the last 8 years it was upgraded to a model 80), to my knowledge it was never available with a starter until the last few years and then only as a diesel. That is an early one. It still has the horse hair air cleaner (the mess kit looking object near the carburetor), notice the front skid rings tied inside the back wheels. I do hope they chain it down. Here is a photo of my mother (in dark dress) and her friends all single farm girls (8 young ladies, one had kodak duty) servicing her brother's (my uncle) Oliver H-P 18-27 (same model tractor as above) in 1932 at her home place. Kodaking on a Sunday afternoon. Tractor has mounted 4 row cultivator and 3 row front mount middle buster (unmounted) in foreground. Sorry about the picture disappearing. I was editing earlier and apparently when I pressed save it lost it. Also, it's been so long since I looked at that picture I had forgotten that is was a 3-wheel 18-27 so it is not exactly like your 18-27 on the Model A truck. And also, I found out you can't believe everything you read even in the books. I found in print that says the dual front wheel 18-27 has an oil bath air cleaner where you can clearly see that one has the dry horse hair type air cleaner. It also says the extra ring in the back wheels was added in 1935. Which I guess could still be true. They probably just used up all the older parts. Fred
  3. i do as weapon above said, cut washer out of 1/4" plate w/square hole and weld to length.
  4. actually if you count the spokes from top to bottom it looks like 5 for half way ,(6 showing) it looks like a 10 spoke wheel on that M size farmall. although i have seen photos of 8 spoke wheels on that photo of the 2 row experimental cotton picker on the M, then there is the 8 spoke wheels on the F12,and 14.
  5. my thought on those 78-90 caprice were the last of a real auto, full size, rear wheel drive, metal showing to the outside on bumper, sensible good looks, all cast iron engine, and. headlights you can buy anywhere.
  6. U-C i collect MM, and others, it looks like your A-O has a wisconsin 4 cyl air cooled for power ?, although i see 2 filler caps on top.
  7. i am thinking the tractor on the threshing machine is a Z, based just that . Z would be a better HP match. they both look almost alike. both R&Z very good, i think.
  8. Well Gary that is a really weird cotton harvester on that f-20. looks to be west, or central Texas, the men have coats on, cotton stalks have fair height, could be, it's already been hand harvested? those two guys probably put that thing together. i'ts possible there are brush rolls in those bottom tubes, i can see the one on the left is belt driven, which it then gear drives? the one on the right. the top tube (one each side) ( other not seen from this angle) would have a slit,(opening) to the inside, to suck the cotton inside and to the back,into the suction fan, then into a container/ sack? at back, (not seen) of tractor. this is very similar to today's cotton stripper, except the brush rolls are down in front,angle up at the back and use augers to bring the cotton to a central fan air stream. As the cotton stalks pass between the rolls, the rolls are rotating opposite each other, from bottom to top, on the cotton stalks. (Rotating just opposite from a corn picker.) Below is an example of what the brush rolls should look like from the bottom end on today's stripper. That's a very good homemade (if i'm thinking correctly) example of what we know today as a brush roll cotton stripper. There were two brothers (now deceased) in my area in about 1970 that used a rust cotton picker chassis and mounted brush roll strippers on it and used fan suction to remove cotton directly from behind the augers on each row and deliver it to the basket. They put out a brochure and tried to market them, don't know if they ever sold one. Here is a brochure. Very interesting. Thanks for posting. Fred
  9. actually anson, it's exhaust pressure using standard garden hose fittings from a diverter valve mounted on the exhaust manifold.under the muffler. On the plus side it basically was live because it worked whenever the engine was running and you could move the lift cylinder to different areas on the tractor. On the negative side, as the piston came out of the cylinder, it pulled up on a cable that ran under pulleys and through a pipe to do its job. I am thinking since the cable came down the side, it kind of pulled the piston plunger sideways. Of course the hot exhaust gas didn't help any. The valving mechanism was very problematic. I would think it robbed some horse power and it's my understand that it caused some burnt valves. oh well they tried.
  10. well, i've not put any time on a implement behind a horse, so i don't know of their hydraulic systems, but the farmall A & B had an exhaust gas lift system , maybe that's what the horse system was. just connect that bottom hose------never mind
  11. i don't remember the details but it seems jd bought paddle dirt scrapers from hancock in lubbock tx , for a while, then just cut out hancock, and built it themselves. also there was the law suit where jd tried to patent the color combo of green and yellow, when oliver had been using it for years.
  12. you'er right all it does is increase the leverage, you can also do it by extending the foot pad up' and at the same time move the pad back, and correct the pad angle to better fit the foot, when pedal is fully depressed .. look at the pad on a 560, the chassis is the same as a M, but the foot pad is about twice as far back, and some up. ( brake pads may also be further back on 560), also won't change ta linkage. just clamp new weldment pad to pedal shank, you will have to lift foot higher. my dad made one for his M in 1952.
  13. well, i'm sure he's a nice dog and all, but can he make straight rows?
  14. on rh side there is a small horizontal pressed u shape welded at front, there is a 1/2" hole near front using that hole, bolt flat iron behind it, about 5" drill another hole to rear about 2" , remove flat iron, cut u shape with hack saw behind hole, remove hood support weldment (that you just cut) and hood support link that side, remove radiator from that side, no need to remove hood.
  15. Sorry for late response. Been out of pocket for a while. Equipment Junkie, Thanks for your comments. While I was trying to make up my mind whether or not to put a loader on a tractor w/o power steering, some one else bought it. With the addition of an arm to the back axle, it looks like the 7108 would have been a good loader. While not necessarily heavy duty, I always liked the simplicity of the Schwartz front axle. To look at that photo of the broken 1066, it looks like w/tongue placed correctly in cheek, you could just get someone to guide the driveshaft back into the clutch disk, while operating the loader in the down position (to suck ram back closed) to bring torque tube back together and using chain and the turnbuckle type load binder from front to back to snug it up and you're good to go. LOL Too bad it doesn't work that way. It's possible some of the bolts were missing on the 1066 at the bottom which caused it to break. but of course, if you overload something, there's always a breaking point. If I'm thinking correctly, assuming loaded bucket resting on ground, the pressure on all the tractor wheels is down while the bucket is trying to go up. Once daylight appears under bucket pressure on front wheels is down, no pressure on back wheels , or back wheel weight transfers to front. And bitty, I looked up your loader # and it seems to bolt to center and w/2 bolts farther to front and an arm to back.