axial_al

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About axial_al

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday September 21

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    SE SD
  • Interests
    F-14,H,400G,560D,756D,8920,MX120, NH9282 (versatile), 2366,Massey 44.

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  1. I did this to my 756 a few years ago. 18.4's on the 15" rim. I already had the 10:00x16 tires on the front and the tractor still sits a little nose low, but not bad. I think it would be really nose low without the big tires on front. The biggest problem with this swap is that the fenders become VERY close to the tire. There are two different fender/axle mounts for these tractors and mine were the shorter ones and the fenders were already in the top hole. I suppose these fender/axle mounts for the taller tires could be available from a salvage yard or aftermarket type place, but I just welded a 2"x 1/4" steel strap to the top of the mount with two more holes and adjusted the fender up. The 756 is my chore/raking/general purpose tractor, so the extra ground clearance is good. Good luck.
  2. Sounds like the live power take off splines in the clutch back plate may have stripped like ih crazy said. Fairly common and will result in the symptoms you describe. There is a little plate you can remove below the clutch housing to see if there are filings being produced there. Good luck. Al
  3. If I were you, I would put 15" rims on the 706 along with 16.9x38's. Good luck.
  4. That is what you call "carburetor heat". Airplanes use a version of that to melt carburetor ice at the pull of a knob. You lose a little horsepower, but enough carb ice can stop your engine! looks like a nice fabrication.
  5. I replaced the rear housing gasket on my 560 once by working through the PTO opening. Replaced a broken axle on a 400 the same way. Of course getting the axle bolt out and removing the axle and housing was no problem and I was able to lift the gear up with a short pry bar to re-install the axle. (watch out for your fingers). Maybe an H is too small inside the rear housing for this approach? Anyway, on an H there is a lot less stuff you have to remove to get the trans/diff cover off. Good Luck.
  6. It wouldn't hurt to check your glow plugs. You can pull all wires from them and then check them one at a time with the glow plug meter, or use an ohm-meter. A bad plug could cause a miss at startup and the white smoke.
  7. Thank you SD Man.
  8. The auto temperature feature on my '02 2366 has become erratic. There are no error codes appearing, but the A/C sometimes will not cool, no matter where the temp knob is set. Then all of a sudden it will start and run for awhile and then quit again. Has anyone had a similar problem? Thanks for any input.
  9. Looked up the pinch point for my 2366. Says it is about 7:00 as viewed from the back.
  10. I think your owners manual tells you where the "pinch" point should be between the rotor and the concave. IIRC it is something like 5 o'clock as viewed from the rear of the combine.
  11. I have hammered out some fairly minor ripples in metal snoots with a hammer and wood blocks,but a U shape may be a bit much. Salvage yards around here are running out of them. The good news is that the poly snoots are a bolt on replacement. Good luck. Al
  12. Something to keep in mind is that there are two belt lengths available for the 100 balanced mower depending upon whether you have a 12" (high speed) or the 11" drive pulley.
  13. Dad always said that every farmer needed an M. Congratulations.
  14. sounds like a problem in the hydraulic clutch booster. good luck.
  15. The J in the date code would make it a 1940 model, but that is a really high serial number for a 40 model, so I don't really know what you have there. Al