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About 5488Duke

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 11/25/1965

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    North Central Ohio

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  1. 3pt hitch levers on a 50 series

    No those aren’t bad at all. Just unhook linkage bars and loosen them up they should come off one by one.
  2. 3pt hitch levers on a 50 series

    Unless you have small hands or someone nibble it is best to remove the right tire at least. I have fought to change some linkages by removing the seat and floor but it is time consuming and working blind at lot. If you can take that wheel off or move it way out, then everything is right there to work on and take apart. And a lot easier to make adjustments putting it all back together. Two bottom bolts and the pivot shaft drops out, plastic cover on bottom has to come off first. Then you can pull the knobs off the drop the levers down through for removal and repair. Good luck.
  3. Happy birthday 5488duke, Mnredfarmer, Dirtboyz07

    Thanks everyone! And Happy Birthday to all those that share this day !!
  4. Happy Thanksgiving Every One

    Happy Thanksgiving to everyone! Hope everyone has safe travels today. Enjoy the family, friends and great food!
  5. 5488 and 3688 headlights flicker

    After all these years, who knows where things are grounded and how the power feed is. Maynard and the other guys are right, you need to check the power and ground situations. Two power connections that could be bad, one like Maynard said up by the air box/alternator area; other one is under the right front part of cab at right rear corner of engine. I have found one or both of these plugs heated/melted/corroded from bad connections and causing problems. The ground...trace the ground on the lights to make sure where the ground goes to and that it is clean. Regardless, I have always put a single ground wire from alternator mount bolt to a bolt on the air box somewhere, just to give a good ground. The 2wd drive 54 I had flickered the lights one spring...found plug by alternator bad and fixed that...flickered again a week or so later...checked wires, cleaned, looked OK..so added the ground wire...OK for a while...then flickered again!! Found plug at rear of engine had been overheated and looked awful just on that wire, had to remove wire and make a single connector for it and finally the lights didn't flicker... So been there done that...check ALL the connectors the first time and you should be good.
  6. Brought this home today

    Very Nice! You will like the new addition. She looks to be in great shape!
  7. Battery life

    All of our stuff is fairly old also, 2188 is a 95 and all the tractors are older than 84 other than the 315 for tillage. A lot of the wiring on our tractors was in the same shape as you describe when we got them. No new harnesses, just got some wire, some heat shrink wrap and a bunch of connectors and started in replacing bad spots or bad ends. Like on the 2188, we were having trouble with holding voltage at night with all the lights on. So that winter I took every connection apart and you can't believe how much bean dust can pack into those, blew them out, used electrical cleaner and greased...but I found many that were starting to corrode which is where the extra battery draw and heat comes from. After cleaning it all up, we hold an easy 13 on the gauge all night long with everything running. I have had some comments on how clean we do keep things...and we had 150 head dairy up until 95 with many of those tractors around. So they weren't always shed queens between seasons, ha ha! I do get disappointed when we have a breakdown...take a lot of pride in making sure things are up to snuff before season starts. Makes the season go a lot smoother!
  8. Battery life

    Northern Ohio winters here also...We have been getting batteries from our local dealer, but they handle Harris Brand batteries. They try to give me a felt washer to put on the battery posts every time we get a new battery and I tell them to keep it for the next guy, I use grease for that purpose. Here is what we have been doing for the last 20 years and we have numerous batteries that are over 10-13 years old. Two tractors only get 40-50 hours of use a year on them. And this includes the 2188 combine too which has 11 year old batteries and starts like a fire cracker still! Batteries: apply a heavy layer of grease on each post to seal the post and the plastic battery case around it--this seals the post and the area that may leak acid fumes that cause the corrosion on the posts and cable clamp; next attach the battery cables..grease up the clamp and bolts also...and make sure they are good cables! If you got one with one of those bolt on replacement ends, pitch it now!!! Next step: clean all the ground connections for the battery cables and the main grounds for the tractor wiring too. Then clean and protect all other main positive connections for starter, alternator and positive cable connections going to main fuses/cab relays. We have never used any battery tenders and never disconnect the grounds. Most all equipment is in cold storage in the buildings. We do pick a couple warmer days through the winter to start everything up and let them run for 5-10 minutes. I really think keeping the wiring and connections clean and never using those crimp connectors on stuff is also key. Any wiring issue gets fixed with soldered connections, as soon as possible, yes we do use the crimp ons for quick fixes to keep us going, but if that happens it is written in the service book and changed next chance we get. We also will go through the entire machine every 5 years or so and take every wiring connection apart and check for being clean and apply electric grease to the connections. The extra draw from bad connections and that load on the alternator and battery system has an effect on the life you will get from the battery and alternator.
  9. Powershift problems

    The cables that control the hydraulic remotes, is what I think you're talking about. Each remote valve has a tall cap with a two bolt retainer that holds it down tight against valve top. Remove the two screws and lift the retainer ring, then the tall cap can be unscrewed and lifted up...underneath that cap is the end of the cable with a yoke and pin attached to the valve plunger. Remove pin and it will be free.
  10. 5288 seat

    part number is 84380450. I made "Z" brackets with bolt pattern for bottom of new seat on top and existing holes in floorboard of tractor on bottom. It only comes with one arm rest, as the seat would normally have the control center arm rest on the right hand side. The arm rest is center mount so it works on either left or right side, and I took the left arm rest bracket off and made a copy of it bent the opposite direction to install on right side and put the second arm rest on that. The seat has an accumulation bottle at the base of the seat which sticks out too much, but I just unbolted it and made new holes closer to seat bellows and it fit nicely in the 5488. It listed for much more than I paid for it, dealer cut me a deal and it was only a couple hundred more that the top of the line grammar/sears seats. If you go that route I can send you some more pics of the brackets and mounting. I had a thread over the winter on the new seat and how I did it. Loren
  11. 5288 seat

    You can also put in the latest new style magnum seat in also, you mentioned not going the cheap route, so just throwing all the options out you could check into. Then you get the new style active responsive cushioning along with fore/aft and lateral side to side. Air ride just need a power wire and some brackets to raise it up off the floor a little, also has heated seat cushions too.
  12. Tying the 5488 to the ground

    Very nice tractor you have! Those weights should really help the rear end bite in now. I have 5 sets of split weights on mine with the 18.4 x 42's also.
  13. Anyone else working on theirs?

    Pete1468, I ran some beans tonight and here is the scoop on the new led lights. Last several years we had been having trouble with the lights staying on, would clean up terminals and try but lights would just go out, I believe from the heat those old lights generate, would weaken the solder on the end of the bulb and not make good contact. I had bought two new center headlights two years ago, the old lenses were dark and could barely see through them. After putting those two new ones in the center, those two were very bright compared to the other 4 outer lights. So I then changed the 4 outer lights to led lights...WOW!!! Can't even tell the center lights are on at night, due to the other lights are so bright, I actually got out to make sure the center lights were on, which they were!! There is a not lit void in the center where the center lights should be shining now! I am going to change the center two this winter and maybe some of the other side/auger/ rear lights too. Loren
  14. This will make the neighbors look

    That's a neat purchase you have there. I also like the ice cream cab with the narrow front.
  15. The Girls all got a bath before fall.

    No they are 18.4 38s