5488Duke

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About 5488Duke

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 11/25/1965

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    Male
  • Location
    North Central Ohio

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  1. Prayers for you and your friend and family. Just remember that during these times it is our closest friends that bring comfort and a shoulder to lean or cry on. Even though you dread the trip, remember that they need you and your comforting words more than anything.
  2. Prayers for your family sent. May the Lord comfort you and your family during this tough time.
  3. You can take the bolts out of the top and bottom of the cylinder mount, then remove vertical pin that holds the bracket the cylinder and tie rods mount to. After pin and cylinder are out, you can take bracket and both tie rods out and get it on your work bench. Good time to check play in the bracket and pin area and replace bushings etc as needed. Also can check those cylinder trunnions to make sure they are tight. Get all your tie rods ends changed and everything else tight and you will have a new front end!
  4. Very Nice!!
  5. 89vmax, it sounds like your problem is the movement in the linkages due to wear. I had the same issue, basically most of the travel in the lever slot was taken up just getting from raise to lower positions and two of them you could push and hold for float but not enough travel to lock into float. Like Mike said, there is adjustment underneath the 3 point control cover, slotted screwdriver can make the adjustments, but if I adjusted to get float I then lost being able to lock into raise position. I ended up removing seat and floor under seat to watch all the linkage move and had to get several new parts. My wear was in the L shaped piece and the bolt that fastens it onto the bracket that bolts on top of each remote, the "chain link" looking connecter that hooks to the L piece and then hooks into the remote stem also had some wear. After replacing those pieces I was able to adjust all three remotes to have plenty of travel to lock into raise, lower and float again. Its somewhat of a pain to get into those pieces, unless your wheels are set out wide, that is why I took the seat and floor out and it was still a task to get your hand in there to get them loose and back in.
  6. The outline is the check valve one will be on the left side and one on the right side if you have three remotes. Hydraulic lines come from valve stack behind the right hand battery and tire and run to the check valve block then come out the back and go to the rear of tractor to the remote coupler housings.
  7. 5488 MFD is the only one left on our place, had two years ago had a 5488 2wd, 5488 MFD, and a 5288 2wd. Both 2wd's were sold to other guys in the area. As far as I know they are still around.
  8. Prayers for your dad and your family.
  9. Welcome aboard. And loved your story. Hope some day you get that 1066
  10. Got some great information late last night from a fellow forum member. I am going to finish the install and document as I go. If everything works great I will start a new thread and explain. Thanks for everyone's help so far Loren
  11. here is the schematic for the 88 series steering pump, supply line comes from regulated flow divider and steering return tees into brake for supply and continues down for return with two check valves in the system. Supply is #13 steel line--return is #19 hose goes into brake tee and continues to second photo as #34 Hose with #29 steering check valve and #32 as steering make-up check valve. But as I have mentioned, slightly different system and does not use a signal line for pressure demand. Second photo of flow divider
  12. Here is the scan of the magnum schematic...the 88 series does not have a line signal hose, so what should I do with the LS1 and LS2 ports on the diagram?
  13. This is where the problem lies...the 88 series is Off Platform, so they don't support...so no diagram. We are using a magnum kit and schematic, the early magnums had a signal line on the steering motor and the diagram shows it being plumbed into the electric valve body for the auto steer and then comes out and goes to the steering motor. 88 series has no signal line, so do I just blank off the two ports on the valve body for the signal line and forget it? I know others have used the magnum kits, which are very straight forward for all the other connections, just wondering about this signal line. Loren
  14. I know several of you guys out there have put autosteer on your 88 series tractors with hydraulic interface instead of the electric steering wheel drive. Got a lot of pieces and parts to do the job and just worked on laying everything out. Here's the question, the control valve that is added for the autopilot system wants a signal line from steering motor installed into the valve body, but the 88 series steering motor does not have a signal line on it... How did you guys work around this? Thanks for any input and/or advice to help the install go easier. Loren
  15. Farmerfixemup, did you bolt your brackets in place and the bolt heads are tearing up the door seal? I made a heavier bracket and drilled a 3/4" hole top and bottom and welded it in place. Has not caused any seal damage on mine