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About MCC

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 10/28/1975

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    Argyle, WI

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  1. You can drop the reservoir by using two pieces of all thread rod, one on each side and ease it on down yourself. Dan
  2. It might be the belly pump drive shaft seal if it has one. That is replaceable without splitting the tractor. Dan
  3. Hi Arno, Nice to see you posting. So far, I have installed just the two temperature gauges. One on my SMD and the other on my Super C. It is nice having an accurate temp gauge on the SMD with the sensitive head. Do you have any pictures of your fuel gauges? Thanks, Dan
  4. Hi Arno, Are you the same Arno making gauges? Thanks, Dan
  5. Is it true that using a Petronix kit will "fix" timing issues caused by slop in worn distributor bushings and slop between the shaft and cam? Thanks, Dan
  6. I'm from WI. Maybe they haven't called me yet. Dan
  7. After going through everything on my rebuilt SMD with a fine tooth comb and coming up with nothing mechanically wrong that I could see, other than the gas residue on the manifold walls. I took Cardale Bob's advice and tried using some 100LL aviation gas and I now have no more rev ups on switch over either hot or cold. It may or may not be a band aid fix but it works perfectly now. I used to shut the gas off and then let it almost die before switching over to try to keep it from reving to the moon. I killed it the first two times on 100LL because it just died, so now I actually have to give it a little diesel first. Dan
  8. I had to get custom sleeves made for this same issue on my SMD. Dan
  9. Mine had lock washers only. From memory, I think they are 3/16 studs and the book called for 33 to 37 lb/ft. torque. Please double check this. Dan
  10. "Also check the manifold drain hole behind the carb. It isn't very big of course." Where is this drain hole? I know of the drain hole in the exhaust manifold, but did not find a drain hole in either of my intake manifolds. Are you talking about the drain out of the side of the carb body? Thanks, Dan
  11. My completely overhauled SMD does this if it is allowed to cool off for acouple of hours,. I pulled the manifold off and noticed gas residue all over the diesel intake side of the manifold(I've actually proven this twice). I cleaned off the residue and it acted correctly the next change over. I think as the motor cools off, it is somehow pulling gas fumes into the manifold and it condenses on the walls. I would try leaving the choke closed after shut down next time and see if it helps. I found this after going through everything else with a fine tooth comb and with a different completely rebuilt manifold. Dan
  12. While running on gas try cracking the injector bleeders and advancing the throttle and see if you have diesel squirting out. Could also be stuck starting valves. On a side note, the book says to not run on gas for more than 10 minutes. Could also look behind the manifold and make sure you see the flap actuator moving.
  13. That is how mine looked mounted on 12 inch rims. They are wearing terribly in the middle of the tire from road use. I do not believe I would mount them on 12 inch wheels again.
  14. It is a '53 and when I overhauled it, I found 450 pistons in it. So it was rebuilt at least once before.
  15. My SMD I am restoring reads 16,649 hours on the still functioning hour meter.