MCC

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About MCC

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 10/28/1975

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    Male
  • Location
    Argyle, WI

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    dankoch737@yahoo.com

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  1. Update. Well, I have some encouraging news. I got a chance to work on my Super C. I pulled the valve cover and I did not find any sign of sand on top of the head. I pulled the oil filter that has about 10 hours on it and I cut it apart. It had no sand at all. I pulled the oil pan and found no sand. I pulled a rod and a main bearing and no signs of sand or bearing damage. So at least the Super C looks like it is in the clear. I won't get a chance to work on the expensive Super MD for a few more weeks. I have my fingers crossed. So at this point, as crazy as it sounds, I am guessing the sand was in the filter from new. Dan
  2. I did not do any of the internal engine work. I had a reputable machine shop do the engine. The first time I had a local mechanic pull the engine and use the machine shop I wanted. The mechanic assembled the engine and it had issues. The second time, I pulled the engine and the machine shop did all the work. The owner has been in business over 50 years and has a good rep. This is why I am paranoid about trying a third time. I can't afford to waste another wad of money on this just to have it fail. Right or wrong, the first failure was blamed on the mechanic. The second time, the machinist thinks I got sand put in my motor by a "helper". I just can't see that being the case as I have no known enemies and the tractor is locked up 24/7. Since he thinks it is vandalism, I didn't get any indication that he would help me out. Dan
  3. Hi Tony, Sorry to hear of your troubles. Is that sand looking grit in your oil pan? I haven't dropped the pan yet, but the whole pail bottom was covered in the gray stuff. I was hoping that was normal for a motor that was just rebuilt. Now I'm fearing it is bearing material too. I really don't know what to do at this point. It is a long story and there is the wife variable too. The fall of 2010, we were on vacation and my 5 month old son had a seizure and he ended up passing away after a two month battle at a children's hospital. My wife's Grandpa gave me this tractor(my first tractor) the following Easter. I think as a way to comfort me. It needed overhauled and I stuck a pile of money into it because I am particular. My wife was ok with it as I was planning on restoring this in honor of my son Mathias. Anyways, the first overhaul failed and I had to do it a second time and then I have had a lot of other issues with the injection system. Fast forward to today. I have probably $20 grand in this thing and this has happened again. If the motor has bearing issues again as I fear, I don't want have to try and come up with the money again and try to find very hard to find bearings just to have it fail again. I would hate to throw another 5 grand at this and have it fail again. My wife doesn't want me to get rid of it because of all the money I put into it and the fact she only approved the expenses because of the reasons I mentioned. I just want a working tractor, something I can enjoy hobby farming with. I have fought this thing for 6 years and it is a bitter pill to swallow. Anyway, that is the short version, but kind of a picture of where I am at. Dan
  4. The filters were still in the plastic.
  5. So I took the filters to my machinist today and he said he has not seen this in his 57 years as a machinist. He cut both filters apart and found that all of the sand and mud grit is concentrated a couple of pleats on either side crimp. None of the material is magnetic. I am leaning towards thinking the crap was somehow there from the manufacturing process of the filters. I can't think of another reason all of it is piled up in the couple of pleats on either side of the metal crimp. Both the machinist and mechanic thought it strange and thought it would have been throughout the whole filter surface. He wants me to drop the pans and look in there and look at the bearings and go from there. I have not sandblasted or painted these tractors yet. Thanks, Dan
  6. I have a SMD with a brand new overhaul with 10 hours total run time. I drained the first oil after the first heat cycle and then after 10 hours. I found maybe 10 pieces of sand in the drain pail which i had cleaned beforehand. So I cut the oil filter apart and there is probably a teaspoon of sand all throughout this filter. Freaking out, I cut the oil filter apart from my Super C and it has the same looking sand in it as well but not nearly as much. I am a maintenance freak and am super picky. I use Case/IH No. 1 in the SMD, Case/IH Low Ash in the Super C,Fleetguard Oil filters from Case/IH. I showed the filters to my local IH service manager and he was perplexed. Said it looked like my oil system was open in a gravel pit during rock crushing operations. I am a super clean freak. All maintenance performed in my closed garage. Garage is always locked up. It looks like my hot oil pressure may be down some on the Super C as it now low idles slightly in the red. Anyone else ever seen this before? Are my motors doomed? I have 10 grand in the SMD motor and am sick. Thanks, Dan
  7. Scott, I was told the cast iron retainer isn't correct for the felt seals. Maybe this is your problem. Dan
  8. I had this exact thing happen to mine. I was told they all leak by the mechanic. I took it somewhere else and they found the one retainer was cracked. I bought a different retainer and mine is now dry.
  9. 2.5" R.H. on my SMD.
  10. I got a chance to play with the pump settings and it is still there. One thing I am sure of now is it sounds good on gas when I switch it back. There are no signs of smoke out the exhaust either while fluttering on diesel. Other than the pump and injectors, what is left that would make it run like poo on diesel, but good on gas. This has new front timing gears, have tried multiple pumps, tried new injectors. If I had valve issues or cams issues, how could I tell? Would it still run good on gas? The head has all new valves, seats and springs. The cam was redone. The last IH pump manual I bought said injector lines with different internal diameters could cause a rough running engine. That is something I never looked at yet. Thanks for any ideas, Dan
  11. The sleeves were custom made by LA Sleeve. My block needed over size sleeves and we couldn't find any. They are the dry type. Opening the injector bleeders does cause the motor to change sound evenly across all four injectors. But the motor still flutters. The injectors are newly rebuilt and that didn't change anything. I had the rotating assembly balanced he second time. Thanks, Dan
  12. I am curious if your idle is fluttery like mine is or if it is super smooth and even. My idle flutters as the governor arm dances. The local mechanic told me he thinks it is a "governor with nothing to do" as it sounds good under a load. When first started it is fairly smooth, but starts fluttering as it warms up. Thanks, Dan
  13. I honestly can't say for sure. I hear what I think are similarities, but they are much more subtle. I've heard several videos on you tube with some similarity to my diesel idle, but not most of them so that is why I'm not sure. Most people tell me that's just how old tractors sound and I'm being anal, but none of my critiques own one.lol Thanks, Dan
  14. I had this motor overhauled. It has new timing gears, sleeves, pistons, valves, valve seats. I've tried more than one rebuilt pump, precups, and two sets of injectors with the current ones being open face injectors with new valves. I actually had the motor done twice because I found the cylinders scuffed at the bottoms. The machine shop said he bored it to spec and they were CaseIH pistons, wasn't sure why it did it. He opened up the bores a little more. I'm almost wondering if the pistons are still too tight as the problems gets worse as it warms up. Im not sure if it turns over hard by hand or not because I don't have another to compare it to. There is no smoke out the exhaust at all with this happening. It will only smoke if I set the timing pointer back 2 notches from zero. As I go down the line cracking injectors, nothing changes. If I drastically increase bumper spring pressure, it helps some. If I had a valve problem, would I see smoke puffs? I don't. The pumps have all been set up for a Super MD. I din't know if it matters I have 450 injectors in it or not, soI tried a 450 governor spring and settings and it didn't change anything. I have also taken compression readings through the spark plugs and get with in a few pounds of each other whether the motor is cold or warmed up. And no leakage of the starting valves. How can I tell if the motor is too tight? If this is the problem, could it need to just get some run hours on it? I'm to the point where I think I should drop the oil pan again and have another look, but I really don't want to see a problem in there again. I'm really at my witts end on this. I had it overhauled in 2011 the first time and only get to work on it in my spare time and as money allows and this is where I am at with a whole lot of money pissed away. The "Boss" is out of patience too.lol Thanks, Dan
  15. I shot a short video of my tractor idling tonight. Can anyone tell me if they think it is normal? It sounds good on a dyno load and produced 58 hp. This D264 motor has been overhauled, new pump and injectors. The galloping doesn't change when I play with timing or when cracking the bleeders on the injectors. It sounds pretty good when started cold but after running about 10 minutes, it sounds like this. If I look at the torque arm in the pump, it is quivering back and forth. If I apply a lot of pressure to the torque arm, it helps a lot. I have also tried more than one pump. http://jmp.sh/gUjLUaP Thanks, Dan