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About crawlernut

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 06/07/1957

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  • Location
    San Luis Obispo, Calif.
  • Interests
    TD35,TD6, TD6-61, TD9(3),TD14,TD14A,TD14(141)(2), TD18A, 1952 Ferg.TO30,MF 50,1929 John Deere D,1947 John Deere D,1917 Holt 45 hp Harvester Engine,1911 Reid Oilfield Engine, Antique Flywheel Engines,Antique Garden tractors.

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  1. Dan, I had never heard of ATF on priming before, but I follow your reasoning. I would hold off on the sparkplugs until you know you can get the engine free with a minimum of hassle. The hole on the left side of dash is for a hourmeter. You should take the valve cover off and make sure all the valves are free to avoid damage to valve train if it starts to rotate. You could also dump some juice down exhaust manifold and open exhaust valve on each cylinder to let the juice in.
  2. I use a 1qt oil squirt can filled with the "Juice". Decompression lever set on the gas (down) position. Why are you using ATF to prime the filters? I am guessing fuel filters. Jim.
  3. BigTow, Welcome to the Forum. Where are you from and what types of machinery do you have (or interested in) ? Jim.
  4. Dan, Take the sparkplugs out. Mix 1 qt. acetone with 1qt. ATF. Put 1.5 cups of mix in each cylinder and reinstall the plugs. Give it a week or two to set. If possible,pull the floor plate to access the flywheel and clutch. Use a big prybar on the bolts around the flywheel to get movement. work one way ,then the opposite. Just go till it gets tight, then go the other direction. Good idea to crack the drain plug on the oil pan and see if any water has collected in the bottom. If there is water, it will need to be drained out and replaced. Dont use the starter until you have it rolling free. be sure to remove plugs before using starter to prevent further damage due to hydrolock. Don't be in a hurry, It took time to seize and will take some time to unstick. JIm.
  5. I think the drapes are a nice touch. What is it about this machine that scares you? The lack of iron between operator and load? I would think the visibility would be a plus in operation. Probably not the greatest for loading pig manure. I do know that the owner has gotten most of the service from that one rear (or shall I say front) tire. Jim.
  6. W400, There should be a brass screen in the inlet fitting to the carb. This can plug up with debris. Also make sure no rust or leaves are floating in the tank. If the sediment bowl stays clean thru a wide open flush cycle, Tank is probably clean. Hard to see into tank with the offset filler neck Does your engine have the priming plunger to pull gas out of bowl and spray it into the manifold? They are spring loaded. Just pull back and will deliver some extra fuel for cold weather startups. Did you replace or reuse the gaskets in carb and mounting flange? Might want to check for vacuum leaks in these areas. Jim.
  7. Since you removed the carb for cleaning, I would check for sticky float or needle valve. WIth full starting tank, set engine on gas cycle and remove the drain plug on bottom of fuel bowl. Place a container under the flow and make sure you have a good steady flow for several minutes, or tank drains out. Check the drained fuel for water and rust particles. It could be a sticky poppet valve in the intake manifold above the barb. you can pull the top cover and clean and lube the valve stems, making sure the valve seats in both start and run positions. lube all the linkage pivot points also. Could the timer on the fuel pump be tripping the decompression lever too soon? What does the exhaust look like for the 3 to 8 revolutions when it does fire? Sounds like you are close. Jim.
  8. My father had one on his farm in the California Delta. I use to help him move it from field to field. You stood on a platform on the back and steered it like a hook and ladder truck. I pulled it with the TD14. After the wheat was harvested and stubble disced down, you ran it over the field in two directions. It would level out the check berms and fill in the low spots. It was a bit tricky turning and going around power poles. You had to pivot the bucket on the dirt pile you were carrying without losing any of the pile. The bucket had 2 foot extensions on either side so you could make a wider pass. Had to be real careful going around the poles so you didnt hook the extension on the pole. The wheels, once unhooked from the steering bar swung free like huge casters. It was kinda fun to operate such a big piece of equipment when you're a kid. Jim.
  9. Also could be the splines on imput shaft have rust and a worn area causing a lip to prevent the friction plate from moving freely. Penetrant may help but the shaft may need removal and some filing work to remove the lip. Also, could the forks be going too far forward and causing the throwout bearing to not return to original position. Jim
  10. MM, What are the points above the blade for? Part of a brush rake? What brand of engine is in this machine? Not familiar with Cletrac. Looks good. Jim.
  11. td6

    Cliff, I am getting into uncharted territory, but I think the casting the adjusting rod go into also holds the front end of the big track springs which are tensioned with a rod that must be released and springs removed to access that casting. See if you can get a parts book that shows the exploded view of the track spring system on a 6. Pull the spring cover off and have a look in front of the springs. It will be nasty in that area and a good pressure wash will help you find the casting. You may be in for some cutting torch time on your back if the bolts are stubborn. Jim.
  12. td6

    Cliff, You can try to get the rod out, but I dont think the front idler will move far enough forward to allow the rod to come out. I have seen machines when the rod is stripped out in the track housing, the operator puts a big nut on the rod to push the idler forward and hold the track tension. Not sure if this is what you are doing. Jim.
  13. On the misfire, could be the cylinders were cleaning out the diesel fuel remaining from previous start. on the butterflies, make sure the springs under the end covers are attached and not laying in the bottom. On the overflow pipe, there is usually a piece of felt where the fitting screws into the carb body. It can be full of rust and debris and not let the overflow work properly. Only time my overflow ran is when the float stuck and bowl overfilled with gas. Engine still ran but behaved like it was choked. Jim.
  14. td6

    Cliff, It depends on what you need to do. If you are removing the threaded rod, you have to pull the front idler and that means the track has to be opened. Once the track is off, the front idler sides off the frame and you can get to work. Most times, you will see other items that will need some repair also. Jim.
  15. On the shipping, look into Fastenal. They have some very cheap rates as they tailload onto shipment to all their branch stores. Jim.