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About crawlernut

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 06/07/1957

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    San Luis Obispo, Calif.
  • Interests
    TD35,TD6, TD6-61, TD9(3),TD14,TD14A,TD14(141)(2), TD18A, 1952 Ferg.TO30,MF 50,1929 John Deere D,1947 John Deere D,1917 Holt 45 hp Harvester Engine,1911 Reid Oilfield Engine, Antique Flywheel Engines,Antique Garden tractors.

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  1. For TD18A engine: Oil Filter Wix # 51146 (Takes two) Primary Fuel WIx #33157 Secondary WIx # 33158 You can get these filters thru Napa or auto store that carries WIx. Jim.
  2. Dalton, That's a big leak. My TD14 leaked. would fill the pump after sitting a week. I would drain and refill each time I used it. The gasket on the drive side of the transfer pump on the 14 was just normal material, probably .020 thick. You need to pay attention to the hole location for the fuel flow. The rear gasket which holds the gears in is a very thin gasket. If too thick, the gears dont create the pressure as the fuel does an end run. MD.diesel is the guy on this site with the experience to help you with 18 pumps. Not sure why he has not chimed in yet. Maybe he will see this thread and offer his opinion. Also check the old threads related to TD18 fuel pumps. I am sure the site has covered this questions before. Jim.
  3. Dalton, The double lip seal is for the shaft on the transfer pump. It is a modified seal assembly to replace the obsolete OEM seal. There is a seal on the front of the pump also. On the smaller engines, this is gear driven off the front cover and the fuel will leak into the engine crankcase. The 18 pump is separate so the weeping is less of an issue. Will be a problem if oil loss is too great. ON the gasket, best to check the manual for the correct thickness as this will effect the lift height of the distribution valves. If your pump has an A on the cover, theres your sign. The B type is plain or with a raised IH logo cast into cover. Jim.
  4. The transfer pump has a seal on the shaft that can leak fuel into the pump crankcase. will overfill with fuel and dilute the oil. Central injection in Iowa sell the seals for the pumps and kits to convert the early style chevron seal to a double lip seal. The pump has its own crankcase filled with motor oil, same as engine. should drain and change with each oil change or if it has sat for a while. Jim.
  5. That seat looks more comfortable than the one in my office. Can you still access the batteries under the seat? When I was a kid running the TD14 in the fields, my seat consisted of two boards with old seed sacks for upholstery. I suspect the seat cushions in the 141 were reused from a bass boat or a Dennys restaurant. Jim.
  6. A 1/8 inch pipe coupler will pull the valve body, Then a brass brazing rod or wood dowel will pull out the tappet and the tappet guide. Jim.
  7. Dan, The blade will have two trunion mounts and 2 lifting rod mounts. usually the bolts are stubborn to get off. I would guess that blade and arms would weigh 3 to 4,000 lbs. The side arms are full length, so would be too wide to load sideways. You could see if the loader has the stones to pick it up. If not, some side ramps with heavy timbers and use the tractor to pull it across the trailer into position. That is a very nice trailer but not enough to haul the 141. Would be real hard on the pickup also. I dont know how ugly Raton pass is, but I worry more about the coming down with that much weight than the going up. 3 stage compression brakes or a Kitty Cat with a retarder is more sensible. Make some calls to local equipment haulers, They often need back hauls and will make a better deal to cover fuel costs. The timing will be at their mercy, but you could save some bucks on the hauling. good luck on your mission. Jim.
  8. Dan, Does the Owner have any equipment to drag the crawler around? Fork lift or loader. If you could find an equipment trailer with a winch, you could drag it up onto trailer and take it to your shop for further disection. when I brought home one of the 141s, i removed the blade and moved that separately. I hired a guy to load the machine and drop it at my yard. You can find pictures of the move on my personal site here. Look for Flickr page called "rusty acres" . There are other projects there also. This may be a easier way to work on the machine. My tractor was 1.5 hours away and it took many trips just to get it into a shape to be transported. Jim.
  9. If the clutches are stuck, you will need another tractor to pull it into a position so you can go forward or backward. Drag it up to the truck (out of the way) so you can position the trailer to just drive (or pull) the tractor onto the trailer. Easier and quicker than fighting a dirty gas and fuel system out in the sticks. But, if you are looking for adventure.... Jim
  10. Dan, I had never heard of ATF on priming before, but I follow your reasoning. I would hold off on the sparkplugs until you know you can get the engine free with a minimum of hassle. The hole on the left side of dash is for a hourmeter. You should take the valve cover off and make sure all the valves are free to avoid damage to valve train if it starts to rotate. You could also dump some juice down exhaust manifold and open exhaust valve on each cylinder to let the juice in.
  11. I use a 1qt oil squirt can filled with the "Juice". Decompression lever set on the gas (down) position. Why are you using ATF to prime the filters? I am guessing fuel filters. Jim.
  12. BigTow, Welcome to the Forum. Where are you from and what types of machinery do you have (or interested in) ? Jim.
  13. Dan, Take the sparkplugs out. Mix 1 qt. acetone with 1qt. ATF. Put 1.5 cups of mix in each cylinder and reinstall the plugs. Give it a week or two to set. If possible,pull the floor plate to access the flywheel and clutch. Use a big prybar on the bolts around the flywheel to get movement. work one way ,then the opposite. Just go till it gets tight, then go the other direction. Good idea to crack the drain plug on the oil pan and see if any water has collected in the bottom. If there is water, it will need to be drained out and replaced. Dont use the starter until you have it rolling free. be sure to remove plugs before using starter to prevent further damage due to hydrolock. Don't be in a hurry, It took time to seize and will take some time to unstick. JIm.
  14. I think the drapes are a nice touch. What is it about this machine that scares you? The lack of iron between operator and load? I would think the visibility would be a plus in operation. Probably not the greatest for loading pig manure. I do know that the owner has gotten most of the service from that one rear (or shall I say front) tire. Jim.
  15. W400, There should be a brass screen in the inlet fitting to the carb. This can plug up with debris. Also make sure no rust or leaves are floating in the tank. If the sediment bowl stays clean thru a wide open flush cycle, Tank is probably clean. Hard to see into tank with the offset filler neck Does your engine have the priming plunger to pull gas out of bowl and spray it into the manifold? They are spring loaded. Just pull back and will deliver some extra fuel for cold weather startups. Did you replace or reuse the gaskets in carb and mounting flange? Might want to check for vacuum leaks in these areas. Jim.