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About crawlernut

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 06/07/1957

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  • Location
    San Luis Obispo, Calif.
  • Interests
    TD35,TD6, TD6-61, TD9(3),TD14,TD14A,TD14(141)(2), TD18A, 1952 Ferg.TO30,MF 50,1929 John Deere D,1947 John Deere D,1917 Holt 45 hp Harvester Engine,1911 Reid Oilfield Engine, Antique Flywheel Engines,Antique Garden tractors.

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  1. RW, You know they all kinda look the same, and the engines are set up the same, but there is a quantum leap from the td 18 to the td24 and the transportation becomes much more difficult to coordinate. I would bet the blade and arms on this thing weigh more than a td9 with a blade. I am getting more cautious with age. Jim.
  2. On sunday, I went to look at the 24 dozer. Temps were in the mid 100s and everything around the property had burned last week. About 2.75 miles off the highway. The tractor has sat outside and untouched by humans for 20 years. The rats and squirrels, however, have made a 20 ton condo out of the machine. The engine is stuck and all linkages are frozen. Undercarriage is =/- 50%. Blade is IH manufacture and is 14 ft wide and side arms are 14 ft long. transport will mean removal and disassembly. A friend who came along with heavy hauling experience, mentioned would be easier to get the tractor running where it sits and road it out to a point where the wide blade is not an issue. Consequently, my desires to own this behemoth as a toy have cooled down considerably The owner lives out of town and is not in a big hurry to get all the iron out of the way. With the logistics and potential problems with finding repair parts, I dont think this one will move real fast. Sorry no pictures, my camera coudnt take the heat any better than I could. Jim.
  3. Rod, What does the engine do when it stops? Does it sputter and slowly die or just die like you turned off the switch with no sputtering? Is this engine a magneto or distributor model? If the latter, it could be a bad condensor or coil that has a slight short that comes on with higher temps. When it stops, check the plug wires to see if you still have spark. If you do have spark, probably a fuel problem. I would check to make sure gas tank is clean and filter on carb inlet is clear. Clean the needle valve of any accumulated crud. Fill the starting tank with gas, put a clean white bucket under the carb and pull the drain plug on the carb bowl. Flow should be steady and drain tank dry in a couple of minutes. Check the bottom of bucket for dirt and debris. If dirty remove tank and flush out and repeat the flow test. Another thing to check is that the fuel tank cap vent is working and not creating a vacuum in the tank. Check by removing cap and starting engine to see if it stays running. JIm..
  4. JIM, Get a picture of the entire dash, both sides of the air cleaner. there has to be a switch or starter button somewhere on that tractor. go to the starter and follow the wires back up to the inside of the dash. That square hole in the lower part of the dash is to allow the brake pedal adjustment to pass thru the dash. Jim.
  5. I replaced the felt seal on the TD 14. Got the parts from FP Smith. There are also neoprene seal kits but I think you need to get new housings as the slots which hold the material are thinner on the neoprene style. Make sure you get or make all the gaskets and follow the directions on installation exactly. It is not a slap on and go operation. Jim.
  6. Bones, First, Welcome to the board. Great bunch here with lots of experience to help you. . I would recommend getting a operators manual that covers most of the needed adjustments. On ebay or from Jensales (reprint) On your tractor, the main clutch cover is round just under the bottom of the air cleaner. Look inside and you will see the pressure plate mounted to the flywheel. there is a threaded ring about 12 in diameter that adjusts the clearance. There is a locking tab that is held by one bolt. it has 2 teeth on one side to lock the adjusting ring after adjusting. Use a small bar to rotate the clutch until the ring lock is visible. take off the lock tab and turn the adjusting ring clockwise to tighten the clutch. if ring is stuck (usually is) take a brass punch and hammer to knock it around. There are raised blocks to tap on to do this. Only do a couple of notches at a time, then check the pull on the clutch lever. The lever should require some pull to get it to snap over center. if lever wont snap over, then back off ring 1 notch and try again. While you are in there, grease all the zerks on the pivot points as they are usually needing some attention. When all is adjusted, replace lock and go push something to make sure its working OK. Jim.
  7. I have contacted the owner and set up a visit for the weekend. Just hope the fires are out by then. Jim.
  8. On it.
  9. I dont know about that. The old timers always told me to keep the shiney side up. Looks like he did just that. Jim.
  10. Was that all from one guy? Man, what a collection of really cool stuff.
  11. JKK, That looks like a machine that has been well taken care of. Be sure to run the engine and drive around if possible to make sure the drivetrain and tracks are in good order. All the suggestions here are correct. I would assume some sticking of the brakes and steering clutches, that is normal for machines that sit outside. If everything else checks out, That is a fair price for that machine with those attachments. Jim.
  12. Louie, Yes, 6 bottom rollers and a longer front idler adjusting rod. The front of tracks came out beyond the radiator. Puts a lot of "bite" on the ground. Used a lot of the longer frames on the front end loader attachments. Jim.
  13. Looks to me like an extended track frame model. The Pump is a bee-gee made in Gilroy, Calif. Good solid built pumps suited for ag. implements. Jim.
  14. JIM, Did you make it out to the new obsession this past weekend? Curious if machine is a TD something or some other brand. Jim.
  15. Vic, I would not use sand blaster on the intake. Parts are soft and sand can remain in areas where it is unwanted. I would recommend removal of intake and remove the over center springs at each end. Clean and lube the points where the shaft goes thru the intake. Inspect the butterfly valve plates inside to make sure they are centered and not rubbing on the interior wall of the passage. Keep working the manifold control lever (flipper thingy) back and forth while spraying penetrant. You can loosen and remove the clamp holding the two shafts together to isolate the problem to front valve, back valve, or both valves. If penetrant and working the valve shafts still doesn't make the shafts free up, pull out the butterfly plates and remove shaft from each end for inspection, cleaning and reassembly. The dust seals are replaceable but not sure they are available. You will need to check the adjustment of the valves to make sure they are horizontal in the diesel (flipper down ) position. This is done with the set screws and lock nuts on top of each end of manifold. Jim.