cgage

Members
  • Content count

    368
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About cgage

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 02/06/1991

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Michigan

Recent Profile Visitors

413 profile views
  1. Thanks, if is is in spec for size I may just lightly use that to take any sharp edges and run it rather than polish or turn it down. When I find some specs and get it measured I will let you know what I find. Thanks for all the help.
  2. I would also say at least save the engine and trans if it is a runner. A running 466 core with matched trans is worth something.
  3. That is my next step before it goes anywhere is to see how close to spec they all are but my manual I ordered is still on the way so don't have specs yet, just wanted to get an idea of what people can typically polish out vs. machine out. Once I get my book and check against the specs I will post it. Have to check before ordering anything anyway since it is very possible it has already been machined down some in the last 70 years.
  4. Figured I would throw this out there as it applies to pretty much all these old engine builds and there is lots of experience here. I am restoring an Oliver 70 that I got as a basket case that already had the engine mostly torn apart. I have it pulled down the the block to check everything and found that the number one rod journal has some just visible grooves in it that I can just barely feel if I use my fingernail. I have heard if it is that minor you can polish the journal rather than have the crank machined? I have a local place that can do polishing but it has to be sent out to be turned which I would like to avoid with a hard to find crank. I have had some people just say get some emery cloth or fine paper and oil and do it myself but I definitely plan to at least have it professionally polished to make sure it stays in round. So, with all the experience here should I just polish and put it together with standard bearings (obviously still checking specs and clearance), or does the crank have to be machined and order some under-size bearings? It is just going to be a show tractor; will go to a few shows and parades a year and I may take it back to the farm to rake hay for a little run time but its not going to live a hard life or get many hours which is why I figured I might be able to just polish it since it will be light use and I know these old tractors aren't nearly as picky on being to perfectly tight specs like the new engines being it's a lower compression low speed gas. Thanks for any opinions.
  5. Yeah, at that moment you could have knocked me down with a feather as they say. Didn't think she would get that sentimental aspect of collecting. Now she is ordering Farmall Encyclopedia books because she wants to know what everyone is talking about at the shows we go to and know all the little info. She is a keeper for sure!
  6. Very Nice! I will have to start a restoration thread as this is what I'm starting with. I bought it last fall running but after hauling it home I had to pull the top of the engine off as someone had dropped a carburetor jet in the manifold when the carb was rebuilt and on the trailer ride home it managed to get into the No. 2 cylinder intake and jam the valve open so it had a dead cylinder. As a result it now has a complete tune up, all top end gaskets, and valve adjustment so now its just down to cosmetics. It is fairly straight but has some sheet metal issues to work out. The main things making me crazy are the old Chevy steering wheel just threaded onto the steering shaft and the too big and mismatched front tires that make it steer terrible so those things will definitely be addressed. It runs awesome; now just have to do the cosmetics and some rear end seals. My wife's dream tractor is an M but I found this for a good deal and thought I would grab it. She drove it once and said I love it but still want an M one day. So I told her okay, next year we can fix up the H a bit and make some money on selling it and get you an M (something I figured she would be fine with to get her M). She looked at me with a really sad face and said "but why would you sell my H, its my first tractor, I want both!". So know I am saving up to also buy her an M! She has since told me she now understands my tractor collecting and the "classic tractor fever" and the reason I never seem to sell one to get another. Finally got her hooked!
  7. Thanks for all the info! This place is like a treasure chest of IH knowledge! I will get a set of the McCormick-Deering decals and let them know my year to be sure.
  8. Thanks, I was planning to get the Maple Hunter Vinyl decals as they seem to be the best quality even the garden tractor ones I have used. Just wanted to make sure I got the right one.
  9. Working on restoring my wife's 1944 H. Have to order a set of decals and going to replace the gauges. My understanding is that the logo change over was in 1945 so her 1944 should have "McCormick-Deering" decals instead of just "McCormick" and the gauges should have the old circle IHC logo rather than the newer IH logo as I have found both. I'm sure it won't be a perfect restoration but I would like to be as accurate as possible so just checking to see if this is correct?
  10. I agree with you and the rest that when you drop that blade you will probably spin out before you power out. I would think the main issue is going to be weight and traction as you probably have the power to spin out in lower gears.
  11. I gave up on TV a few years ago. I have access to fast internet at our location and just stick with streaming like Netflix, Amazon prime, and motortrend. They are each like $5-$10 a month so for about $30 a month I can hand pick any show on there that I want to watch and go back and pick from my favorite episodes. So much better than the $70 I was wasting on cable that just showed garbage. Really the only perk of a TV service anymore is being able to watch sports but I don't follow any so that wasn't an issue for me.
  12. It must depend on the people there maybe and how the local store is run? I have had much better quality with NAPA parts and they are much more helpful to me than the general auto stores. They can mix paint and make hydraulic hoses and I know they guys there so they will take the time to look up parts for the old tractors and garden tractors in their books and if they don't have something they can almost always have it there the next morning. Other general stores and just cheaper but I find many of the parts are bad quality and the guys there don't know anything so if its not a direct fit part for a fairly new vehicle that is in their system they are stumped. Also don't have any support for any equipment besides light cars. As said above about all I use them for is their cheaper prices on oil when it goes on sale but my filter come from napa.
  13. I would just grab some pieces of wire and go right to the light wires and touch the wires to the posts of a 6 volt battery just to do a direct test of the bulbs. If they are good then you can work on wiring them up nicer to the tractor and check the wiring and switch that is on the tractor.
  14. Yeah looks like a 2655, they didn't build that many I don't think. It was after the white merger so it does have a Minneapolis engine. It looks straight but value would probably depend on if the missing parts are there as they probably wouldn't be easy to track down replacements.
  15. When I replaced the lights on my Super A in order to upgrade I got some sealed beam 6V lights and put them behind the stock lenses since they are smaller diameter so there were just two wires to connect to and run out the back of the light housing and then most hardware places have little rubber grommets you can fill the hole in some with to make it look nicer. Takes care of the old connections and the put out more light anyway.