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About cgage

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  • Birthday 02/06/1991

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  1. My wife carries a Charter Arms .38 Special. She likes it; five round dual action revolver with a short barrel. Compact and basic so it has been reliable; never missed a round. Hers is the "pink lady" .38 so it is finished in a matte pink color which for her was just a bonus!
  2. Cockshutt 1850 was the newest gas tractor we have had
  3. $6000 for an old chevy with over 200,000 miles! Yikes! Give my $800 and I can probably get you the same truck in my area. Will no doubt have the standard chevy rust but I can buy a lot of welding wire and patch panels for for $5,000! Especially if the one they have needs clear coat/paint anyway. Does anyone actually pay those prices that they think they can charge that?
  4. I would go back to it as a mag but they will run that way. I would also agree the condenser is not meant for that kind of coil so either run one with a resistor or run a 6 volt coil. We have a cub set up that way (mag to distributor) that works fine but it is still 6 volt with a 6 volt coil.
  5. A big water pump with some kind of progressive valve for load. That might be a good one!
  6. Might be a good way to wash the tractor at the same time!
  7. Your suggestion does give me another crazy idea though. Thinking of a baker fan where you run the drive through an old truck manual transmission and clutch. That way you could change the speed of the fan (load) at a given tractor rpm with various gears and get the tractor to a set rpm and then add the load progressively with the clutch to see how it responds.
  8. I thought about just building a baker fan but for break in and tuning purposes I can't vary the load at max power; the load varies with rpm so I can't just set it somewhere and then load it. It crossed my mind and if the project gets too crazy that may be what I end up with but the adjustment would be ideal. Thanks for the input
  9. I have been thinking about more crazy projects; what would it take to make a pto dyno type machine just for applying load to my old tractors? It doesn't have to be accurate or calibrated to actually measure HP but just something I can use to load engines after rebuild and when doing tuning. Also, helps these old tractors to make them bark every now and then and clean out the carbon. I don't live on the farm anymore so I can't just take them out and plow or disc anymore either. My understanding is that the pto dyno's like the little M&W units basically used a pump and valve for restriction? I figure that is about all I would need since I don't have to take actual measurements. Any ideas what pump would work for this? I have seen a few of them in action but haven't ever been in one to see specifically how it works. Thanks for any help or ideas. Doesn't have to be up against huge horsepower either; I talking tractors like Farmall H, Super A, and F-20, Oliver 70, Allis B and WD, etc.
  10. I have heard a lot of the head issues with these tractors happen with the little valves that switch combustion chambers. Now that we have good quality heavy duty batteries they didn't have at the time would it be possible to switch it to a good 12V deep cycle battery and just start one on diesel? Might also have to beef up the starter but I don't think they were that high compression of a diesel that they should be impossible to start on diesel if you got one to spin?
  11. Thanks for the info, sounds like I am hoping the diesel can be saved because it sounds like you do need a lot of parts for the swap. I am thinking if I have to go to gas I will use the MD flywheel and starter and make up some mounts and fan spacer and mod the hood. Sounds like the least work or at least the option that requires the least amount of parts from a donor tractor. Thanks for all the help. Hopefully I can just save the diesel (or find a way to get a Cummins in it!)
  12. If I could find one for a decent price and figure out how to get it in there, that would be a sweet swap. I may keep that in mind and keep an eye out for one.
  13. I am going to pick up an MD, early next week. It is in "restorable" condition. Supposedly complete but the engine is seized hard; owner says it drug the back tires and wouldn't come loose. My hope is that it can be broken loose, honed, and be brought back to life. However, if the head turns out to be bad that will probably be tough to do without a huge bank account. So, if the engine ends up being a loss will a regular M engine bolt into an MD or do they have a different bell housing? I would hate to have the engine be bad and end up pretty much having to find another whole M worth of parts to swap the motor. Another option would be do the 2-71 GM swap but I'm not sure what all that takes and those engines probably aren't much easier to find than the IH diesel.
  14. I also now have a few Allis's in my collection, I grew up on a WD and now have one of my own and I agree they are a good tractor. I always thought they were comfortable and had nice features. I have quite a bit of respect for Allis equipment. I sure hope you were sarcastic about getting a 9N instead; I drove one of those for the first time this past week moving wagons and raking hay and the WD is so far superior its not even funny. Now having driven one I would say only get a 9N if you need to go really slow and like being very uncomfortable.
  15. Yep the Eagle Mine, it certainly won't cover all the jobs as they are already up and running and mostly staffed but like you say something is better than nothing. I'm not sure the total employment numbers but they are doing well; from what I hear pretty much paying for the operation with the extra minerals they find so the main Ni/Cu deposits that are the main target are mostly profit. Last time I heard they estimated it at a 10, up to 15 year project. May have gone down as they have gotten into the deposits. I know they were pursuing more ground adjacent to the mine to expand but were hitting some legal road blocks.