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About cgage

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 02/06/1991

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Upper Peninsula Michigan
  • Interests
    Old tractors. Currently: 1947 Farmall Super A Industrial, 1950 Farmall M, 1944 Farmall H, 1936 Farmall F-20, 1952 Allis WD, 1944 Allis B, 1948 Oliver 70

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  1. My dad's side is from England and Germany and my mother's side is pretty much all Finnish like many that moved into our area for mining.
  2. Just brought home a 1957 S120 4x4. My brother had it for many years but lost interest so it finally came home with me. It is set up as a plow truck but I plan to fix it up and take all that stuff off though I did used to plow the farm with it and it is a beast! Anyway, I am working on getting things fixed up so I can drive it to local shows. I did an ignition tune up and it will run on gas poured in the carb or run for about 5 seconds at a time but the carb leaks bad and the diaphragms are all shot so not much running until my rebuild kit gets here but have a few questions I'm sure someone knows the answer to.What oil would be recommended to run in the BD240? When I got it running for about 10 seconds it went right up to 50-60 lbs of oil pressure with the old oil still in it, but will have to see what it does once I get it running and warmed up. Guess the main idea is it does seem to be a pretty tight engine (hopefully). I am guessing like a 10W30 or with just summer running maybe a 10W40? Would the old manual transmission and transfer case just be 80W90 like I'm assuming the axles are? Also looking for a source for any more 6x7.25 bolt pattern 17.5" wheels for it. They are the one piece (not split ring) which I like but I don't have a spare so I would like to find at least one more wheel with that bolt pattern if anyone knows of good locations or yards to call. Thanks
  3. The tractors/equipment trailer I pull with my F350 Dually diesel so not worried about the truck in this case but fair enough to ask, I see some interesting rigs out on the road sometimes! I also have a 1/2 ton for the camper but that would never pull both tractors. If I end up doing it I will pull the weights off the H and probably the belly pump too. Should drop some weight.
  4. My wife wants to take both her tractors to a show we have coming up in July. It is about 260 miles from home so not doing multiple trips. She has an H and an M and our equipment trailer is only 10k gross so I can only take them one at a time. A local trailer rental place has an equipment trailer they can rent that is a 14k or 15k gross with an 11k load (cargo) rating. I can't imagine they would be over but I have never had either on a scale and don't really trust all the weights I find on different sites all over the internet as they vary so much so would it be reasonable to put both an H and M on a trailer that is rated for 11k lbs? Neither has loaded tires, both have belly pumps and belt pulleys and no wheel weights on either (the H has one set but they will come off for paint and don't have to go back on for the show). Thanks for any help.
  5. My local tractor supply has a 6.5x13 3500 lb utility trailer that they rent out pretty reasonable that would fit a Super A. Maybe check at a TSC if you have one nearby.
  6. I ordered a new assembly for my Super A as mine is getting pretty loose just haven't installed it yet but inspected it when it got here and the new ones are sealed bearings as mentioned rather than the old oil filled bushing on the originals. The original assembly in my A had the oil seal go bad years ago so I removed the fill plug and replaced with a grease fitting and just keep it full of grease now. Works but it makes a heck of a mess so that's why I went with the new replacement. I figure most any used assemblies the oil seals won't be much better than the old worn out ones I already have.
  7. Yeah I don't think it turned out very popular once people actually put them to work. I have seen one at a show but I don't think I have pics anymore. There is a guy that comes to the same shows/clubs that I do that has an M with a 2-71 detroit diesel swap and I would much prefer that tractor. I think they are rated around 65 hp and he has a straight pipe on it for pulling and running the saw mill and it sounds awesome! May get tiring listening to it all day in the field but that is what ear plugs are for.
  8. I just rebuilt the F-4 on my F-20 and used The Fordson House in Escanaba, MI or I have gotten some parts from Rudy at Rebuilt Mags. Very helpful and great to work with.
  9. To try getting it unstuck without pulling the head (unless you already have) I would use something with more penetrating power, WD40 will just dry stuff but isn't a great rust penetrant. I have used a mixture of ATF and kerosene or I have also heard acetone and marvel mystery oil. Pull the spark plugs and put some in each cylinder and let it sit for at least a few days; weeks is better. After that just keep putting pressure on it by rocking the tire as mentioned or with a bar on the crankshaft. Sometimes if works better to spin the engine backwards to get it off the rust spot so work it in both directions.
  10. Coil could be a possibility but with just shutting off like that first check I would make sure of is power to coil making sure that circuit of the switch didn't go bad or wire didn't get shorted or something. My Allis B just did the same thing though it has a magneto where it just shut off. Tried to restart and it wouldn't even fire; disconnected the ground wire I have to the mag going to my toggle switch and it fired right up. Switch went bad and just grounded the mag and shut the ignition off. Could be other things as well but I always try to start with the simple.
  11. Wow, stayed under $1000 for a brake job. What a deal!
  12. As said if you learn to do it right and have the tractor tuned up it is absolutely a good back up start option. I have an F-20 and an Allis B that are hand crank only and I have started my Super A at times with the crank if the battery is low or because it was winter and the battery wouldn't spin it very well. I have hand started my Farmall H with a distributor several times, mainly just to try it but it started easy as it runs good and so if that hand starts the engine is pretty similar to your 300 so that should hand start okay as well. I usually rotate a bit to get the cylinder I want on compression but make sure when you go to actually start it you do so by hitting compression with crank at the bottom and start by pulling up not pushing down. That way if it does kick back it will pull the crank out of your hand rather than kick back into your shoulder.
  13. Yeah, now up to $850 for a brake job is pretty rough. I rebuilt a whole rear end for my truck for that price. Brake jobs at dealerships are one of the most overpriced services. Hopefully you can get settled and get your shop up and going that way you want. Last thing I went to a dealer for was to mount tires and sensors on my wife's 06 Ford Explorer because it has the stupid TPMS system so they had to have a Ford computer to train and locate all the new sensors. They were fairly reasonable on price but it took them 5 hours to mount the tires and do a front end alignment (on a front end that was all easy to adjust because I had just done the steering rack and tie rods so it was all brand new and no rust to fight). And this was with scheduling the appointment 2 weeks ahead of time so they spot was already reserved for me. Not sure how it took them the first 4 hours to mount 4 tires, must have been using screwdrivers like I do at home!
  14. I am a young collector but definitely have more love for the older tractors. I have an H and an M and see why they sold so well when they came out; they are great, nice driving tractors. My favorite Farmall would have to be either my Super A (probably because it was my first tractor) or my F-20 which was always my dream tractor. Though I am a little more partial to my old F-20 or my A for sentimental reasons I would say the best vintage IH would have to be the H or M.... pick up nearly any book, shirt, hat, fabric, pretty much anything branded IH or Farmall and 95% of the time there will be an H or M as the representative tractor. They have become the "IH mascots".
  15. I don't actually have it on my F-20, just an idea that I saw on several tractors at various shows. Putting one at the coupler would be a good idea as well. I would just measure the diameter of the bolts on the coupler and see if you can find one for that bolt pattern, sorry don't know the match there. Maybe if you measure your bolt spacing you can get a parts store to match it by bolt pattern spacing?