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About cgage

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 02/06/1991

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Upper Peninsula Michigan
  • Interests
    Old tractors. Currently: 1947 Farmall Super A Industrial, 1950 Farmall M, 1944 Farmall H, 1936 Farmall F-20, 1952 Allis WD, 1944 Allis B, 1948 Oliver 70

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  1. I ordered a new assembly for my Super A as mine is getting pretty loose just haven't installed it yet but inspected it when it got here and the new ones are sealed bearings as mentioned rather than the old oil filled bushing on the originals. The original assembly in my A had the oil seal go bad years ago so I removed the fill plug and replaced with a grease fitting and just keep it full of grease now. Works but it makes a heck of a mess so that's why I went with the new replacement. I figure most any used assemblies the oil seals won't be much better than the old worn out ones I already have.
  2. Yeah I don't think it turned out very popular once people actually put them to work. I have seen one at a show but I don't think I have pics anymore. There is a guy that comes to the same shows/clubs that I do that has an M with a 2-71 detroit diesel swap and I would much prefer that tractor. I think they are rated around 65 hp and he has a straight pipe on it for pulling and running the saw mill and it sounds awesome! May get tiring listening to it all day in the field but that is what ear plugs are for.
  3. I just rebuilt the F-4 on my F-20 and used The Fordson House in Escanaba, MI or I have gotten some parts from Rudy at Rebuilt Mags. Very helpful and great to work with.
  4. To try getting it unstuck without pulling the head (unless you already have) I would use something with more penetrating power, WD40 will just dry stuff but isn't a great rust penetrant. I have used a mixture of ATF and kerosene or I have also heard acetone and marvel mystery oil. Pull the spark plugs and put some in each cylinder and let it sit for at least a few days; weeks is better. After that just keep putting pressure on it by rocking the tire as mentioned or with a bar on the crankshaft. Sometimes if works better to spin the engine backwards to get it off the rust spot so work it in both directions.
  5. Coil could be a possibility but with just shutting off like that first check I would make sure of is power to coil making sure that circuit of the switch didn't go bad or wire didn't get shorted or something. My Allis B just did the same thing though it has a magneto where it just shut off. Tried to restart and it wouldn't even fire; disconnected the ground wire I have to the mag going to my toggle switch and it fired right up. Switch went bad and just grounded the mag and shut the ignition off. Could be other things as well but I always try to start with the simple.
  6. Wow, stayed under $1000 for a brake job. What a deal!
  7. As said if you learn to do it right and have the tractor tuned up it is absolutely a good back up start option. I have an F-20 and an Allis B that are hand crank only and I have started my Super A at times with the crank if the battery is low or because it was winter and the battery wouldn't spin it very well. I have hand started my Farmall H with a distributor several times, mainly just to try it but it started easy as it runs good and so if that hand starts the engine is pretty similar to your 300 so that should hand start okay as well. I usually rotate a bit to get the cylinder I want on compression but make sure when you go to actually start it you do so by hitting compression with crank at the bottom and start by pulling up not pushing down. That way if it does kick back it will pull the crank out of your hand rather than kick back into your shoulder.
  8. Yeah, now up to $850 for a brake job is pretty rough. I rebuilt a whole rear end for my truck for that price. Brake jobs at dealerships are one of the most overpriced services. Hopefully you can get settled and get your shop up and going that way you want. Last thing I went to a dealer for was to mount tires and sensors on my wife's 06 Ford Explorer because it has the stupid TPMS system so they had to have a Ford computer to train and locate all the new sensors. They were fairly reasonable on price but it took them 5 hours to mount the tires and do a front end alignment (on a front end that was all easy to adjust because I had just done the steering rack and tie rods so it was all brand new and no rust to fight). And this was with scheduling the appointment 2 weeks ahead of time so they spot was already reserved for me. Not sure how it took them the first 4 hours to mount 4 tires, must have been using screwdrivers like I do at home!
  9. I am a young collector but definitely have more love for the older tractors. I have an H and an M and see why they sold so well when they came out; they are great, nice driving tractors. My favorite Farmall would have to be either my Super A (probably because it was my first tractor) or my F-20 which was always my dream tractor. Though I am a little more partial to my old F-20 or my A for sentimental reasons I would say the best vintage IH would have to be the H or M.... pick up nearly any book, shirt, hat, fabric, pretty much anything branded IH or Farmall and 95% of the time there will be an H or M as the representative tractor. They have become the "IH mascots".
  10. I don't actually have it on my F-20, just an idea that I saw on several tractors at various shows. Putting one at the coupler would be a good idea as well. I would just measure the diameter of the bolts on the coupler and see if you can find one for that bolt pattern, sorry don't know the match there. Maybe if you measure your bolt spacing you can get a parts store to match it by bolt pattern spacing?
  11. Not sure on what one would go in the bell housing but I have seen a few of the F series tractors where people use a flex plate mounted on a pto adapter and make a mount for the starter so the starter and flex plate are underneath the rear end connected to the pto. Just shift in your pto box, fire it up, then you can shift it back out again and you won't even have the flex plate spinning all the time underneath you. This is obviously just if you don't plan to use the pto.
  12. Does your club allow engine swaps? I have always wanted to see someone do one of the detroit 2-71 swaps that people did to the MD's with a WD6. If you want diesel grab the WD6 and if the engine goes swap in a 2-stroke GM or 4bt Cummins, would be one heck of a cool tractor! Probably not the most practical solution....
  13. If you can get a W-4 as the cheapest option I would pick it up. They always seem to be competitive in their class and there are options out there for getting some more power from them pretty reasonable since they are the same engine as an H. Could be a reasonably priced way to have some fun and be easy to haul if that is all you want to do. The gas start diesels were great for fuel economy and were close to the same on power but I have seen an MD dyno against an M with just a modern overbore rebuild and the diesel wasn't even close to keeping up in the power department.
  14. I agree if you are talking new I wouldn't buy any of them for basic needs. You can pick up old tractors cheap and set them up to do what most hobby or landowners need and with the aftermarket expanding if you get a common model you can just about do a basic rebuild on some of them for what it costs to plug a computer into a new one and fix a sensor. Which it was mentioned you aren't even allowed to do yourself even if you could because the companies claim the rights to the software anyway. I can see some big time farmers with huge acres to cover investing in newer equipment but even then it is going to be a lot of overhead. However, if I had the money that I wasn't an issue and was going to buy a new utility tractor it would probably be CaseIH or Kubota. John Deere is really getting picky about the mentioned software rights issue so I would stay clear of that.
  15. Thanks for the info. I will look around for some info on the engine when I get it here before I start ordering parts.