Injpumped

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About Injpumped

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Walnut IL
  • Interests
    motorsports, mostly tractor pulling, and drag racing. Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors.
  1. C113 engine rebuild kits

    I used a realiance/howards/redpower kit on my buddy's Farmall B I rebuilt for him a couple of years ago. We used the high compression pistons, and they only offered the larger bore kit which makes it a 123 if I remember right. The little engine went together very nice, and ran nice too.
  2. 806 wet stack/slobber?

    As Danny mentioned, the new style 5 hole tip as used in the 1456, is a little better at handling light load slobbering. When I say new style, I'm referring to the latest designed injector nozzle used in those engines, so it's still almost 50 year old technology lol! The 5 hole tip has .0098" or basically .010" holes. The earlier style had 4 holes, and most were the 261 tip which has .012" holes. The biggest problem was the earlier ones also were set at only 2400 psi. As the injector wears, they tend to lose opening pressure, so could be 2200 or less. Way too low for a direct injected engine.
  3. No fuel to injectors

    This should have a Bosch VA pump, and there is not top cover you can take off to see if the metering valve is moving.Usually it's not good news when a VA pump doesn't deliver fuel. Does this have the 2 levers on side? One is throttle, the other is kill/excess fuel. Make sure it's moving those right.
  4. Crispy 7120 Combine

    Craigslist ad, "ran when parked!"
  5. 560 D Fuel Pump Issue?

    If it only runs at idle speed, no matter where you put the throttle, then the return line is most likely plugged, the fitting in the bottom of the tank gets rust and junk built up. Very typical problem on Roosa pumps is to have the flex ring break down, and the ground up plastic bits end up causing the same issue, BUT, some of the early 560 had a solid weight retainer. Don't mistake that for the new style EID that appears solid, it has rubber bumpers inside to cushion the injection pulses from the weights. For a tractor that just sits in a collection, I would not worry about rebuilding the pump, as long as you can get the return cleaned up.
  6. early 706 diesel on big iron

    The pump is just a typical Roosa Master / Stanadyne DB with electric shut off in the top cover assembly. That is a wire going to the terminal. Nothing special there. Pump may have been converted to electric shut-off for many reasons, combine engine/pump swap, run on pto pump/generator with murphy switches? Who knows.
  7. Backhoe will not start.

    why did he change filters? Just preventive maintenance? Or was it acting up before? The problem you describe sounds like the typical broken flex ring in the pump, and the pieces are plugging the return, causing it to die, and not have proper advance, thus the black smoke. Loosen the timing window cover on the pump, and let it leak into a bucket, and see if it will keep running like normal. If it does, then you have a pump in need of servicing.
  8. 7120 tractor timing

    It would be easy to see if it still pin to pin. Those can slip a little if it wasn't installed just right.
  9. This thought just occurred to me in reading this about the 3588 and 186. Could it be easily pieced together, to build a hydro 2+2? Isn't the hydro in the TA section, and the transfer case drive is behind that in the speed trans area, or range? They did build fwa hydros, so the gears must be there. Just dreaming. We used to pull the sugar beet digger with a 3388, and having it hydro in an application like that would have been nice!
  10. McNuggets are ok at best but... hoLy wAt dA!

    well, that escalated quickly! The power of meth lol!
  11. I just had a thought. I wonder if someone else built it and made a real good story and sold/traded it to the current owners, and they are just trying to get out from under it lol!
  12. Dad's (Blue) Tractor

    Sad part is Funk is owned by John Deere!
  13. Dt407 rebuild problem

    Like Matt said, if it has been put together with an RD shaft, (which it is, the broken shaft you showed is 17071, RD conversion shaft) Then the hub bolts to the gear with 3 bolts, and could be put in position wrong easily enough, thus explaining the possibility of being 180* out. I'd put it back how it is before I ever tore it all back apart, unless you have nothing better to do lol! The two shafts are made totally different.
  14. Dt407 rebuild problem

    If both washers are not on the banjo bolts, the bolt can be long enough to bottom out in the head, but generally that causes immediate seizure. This one was running for a while, then wasn't lol! Also, I find it odd that you'd have a 17071 shaft, which is the RD conversion shaft, and more expensive. A 1256 should have an 16863 which is the from the factory Roosa shaft. So this should have the 3 bolt hub inside the gear.
  15. Dt407 rebuild problem

    Let me clear this up once and for all! The tang on this pump is NOT OFFSET! That had nothing to do with you seizing it up! The only offset tangs are on 3010-4020 tractors that the pump is mounted at back of engine, Fords with Roosa pumps, some other little stationary engines, and the god old 5.7L Olds. Their offset is on the engine end of the shaft, NOT the pump end, and those have a very noticeable offset. By the looks of the shaft, the inside of the pump is nasty and full of varnish and crud. This is exactly why I try to convince people in to servicing the pump and injectors when it is off during an engine rebuild. That seizure will now cost you double of what a typical pump freshening would have been. New heads are over $1200! Fortunately, I have a few used one to use in my rebuild. Still costly, and could have been avoided.