A.W. Gonya

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About A.W. Gonya

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 07/04/1977

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    West Independence Ohio
  • Interests
    F & Letter series Farmall's, Cub Cadets, anything IH.
  1. If it's drained it's no more than 100lbs, I lifted mine off the workbench alone and I'm about half worn out.
  2. Thanks John, Got it off today finally. I locked the brakes and put the H in gear, as I was going to get the '6 pipe my friend, (who is all of 180lbs, popped it off with a breaker bar. Kinda surprised, but grateful it finally came off.
  3. I'm at a crossroads on the H and I need some clarification. Over the winter the H went through a fairly comprehensive rear-end rebuild to replace the inner axle bearings. Top cover came off, brake housings off, bull gears and differential removed. Replaced all of the bearings, gaskets and seals. Along with a few other parts that were damaged when the bearings failed. Top cover went back on, tractor back together and filled her with gear oil. Then the input seals started leaking. carefully took out the input assembly, yoke, both bearings, gears, and rebuilt/replaced. Bearings had a lot of wear. All that is left is the output drive for the lift all pump, it leaks, the seal is shot. I have tried every combination of ideas to remove it. Spent multiple hours on google and reading threads. We made the socket/barstock tool for the impact. Still stuck. In the end I still don't know for sure. Is the Transmission side drive/nut threaded like a conventional nut? Do I remove it by turning counter clockwise? Is the drive/nut on the belly pump reverse threaded? After reading multiple threads on various forums I am left with conflicting information. My next step (Tomorrow) is to lock the brakes, put it in gear, block the tires and try again. I need any ideas/suggestions I can get
  4. So sorry for your loss, prayers to you and your family.
  5. OK, From what I can tell I think I can make it work, I think the former owner probably did use it on his S.C. One, it looks like the points have been cut down, good news for me, I have zero interest in 300U's. Two, it looks like the major difference is the rockshaft, but there is a provision to keep the rockshaft from turning, which should allow the spring mechanism to work just like a C20 plow. It has the big compression spring mechanism like the other FH plows I have seen. Thanks for all the help gents, it is very much appreciated. Will let you know if it works. If I had to do it over again, I would probably just have bought another 2-14 #8 pull behind.
  6. That's a shame, prayers from us.
  7. Thanks, I kind of hope someone did, if I can make it work I will. Feeling pretty damn stupid right now. Thought my search was over and I jumped too quick.
  8. Swell... Previous owner said it was small point, he has a S.C and said he used it on it. Guess all I can do is take some measurements. Never had a fast hitch implement and bought on impulse.
  9. 2-14" I think.
  10. Brought this one home today, looks different from most of the Fast hitch plows I have found online. Don't think it's "rare" but I would like to know what I have. Going to use it behind the Super C hopefully.
  11. Posted twice, sorry.
  12. Don't need to grind it off if you just source a K301-K321 oil pan. It has the deep sump for the long dipper rod. Have helped with 3-4 rebuilds with several hundred hours on them running the long dipper and a deep pan.
  13. Swing-a-Way made them in St. Louis until about five years ago. Now Wal-mart sells, or did recently, a close (And US made!) Copy. I picked up a couple used Swing-A-Way openers and very carefully cleaned them.
  14. This is what I bought. BLACK BRAIDED EXPANDABLE FLEX SLEEVE WIRING HARNESS LOOM FLEXIBLE WIRE COVERebay Hope it's ok to link to link to ebay.