1947t9

Members
  • Content count

    80
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About 1947t9

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Recent Profile Visitors

161 profile views
  1. Chris, Unfortunately too much going on the next few days or I might look for that elusive bridge. My neck and shoulder should be better next week too. I wasn't going to actually burn it off, I was going to get it cherry red with the hope it would require less persuasion. No room for a grinder and I think the sparks would probably give me a bigger beard trim than the torch. The friction disc is at the very end of the splines of the shaft. I hate to think of pulling the engine when all it would take is one solid whack, but it may come to that and I think I found a way to do it on the trailer if it need be. greg
  2. update.... we pried on the back of the flywheel housing but there was too much spring in the clutch, because the clutch disc is froze on the shaft. That is why the clutch pedal would not move originally. Mice have not only lived in the housing but lived inside the clutch and inside the flywheel area. We disconnected the clutch from the flywheel to see the carnage. The clutch disc is badly rusted and partially coming apart. The rivets holding the friction material to the disc are mostly dissolved. and over half of the friction material fell out. The angles are bad for beating the remains of the disc off the shaft. The only options I see are removing the engine or trying to torch the disc off the shaft or at least get it glowing. Nasty job. Removing the engine is not possible at this time where it is at, so the torch will be attempted when I get back next week.
  3. I'm hoping somebody can verify a plan of attack on this clutch. I have the prop shaft off. The coupling for the prop shaft to the clutch center shaft should be able to be removed. It is keyed to the clutch shaft and bolted to the end. If I can persuade it off can I put the bolt back into the clutch shaft and by using a slide hammer pull the clutch shaft out of the pilot bushing through the clutch then out the throw out bearing and out? At that point the clutch would need to be unbolted and if it isn't stuck to the flywheel it should drop out. I don't see another way. Thanks
  4. Too bad we aren't neighbors, none of mine have similar interests. They are all professionals, Dr's, college professors, software engineer, TV exec. All are nice people, but have no interest in what I like. The one that was a problem wanted to sell and thought that if I had no "yard art", as I collect military vehicles he might get more money. He is gone. All he had to do was talk to me, but he wanted to remain anonymous. so he filed a complaint with the county. What a nightmare that became. The county has a rule for everything, you can't open the hood on your car unless it is inside a building, stuff I had never imagined, and I don't live inside city limits. It is complaint driven, the county won't come looking for you, but once they get that complaint they make sure you are compliant with everything even how you stack firewood. Like I said a nightmare! I'm getting off the subject of my crawler, but that is why I put a bid on it, they couldn't get a bid. I thought I could use it at my new property. With the bid I made I didn't expect to get it and in a way I knew I shouldn't because I have no indoor place to work on it here and I feel in a fishbowl. I'm really paranoid because of what has already happened 2 years ago. It is such a nice little crawler, just need to get that clutch out and replaced. Greg
  5. I have owned my property since the 70's and have seen all my neighbors come and go. I think all my neighbors are good now but I'm getting new ones on one side. It makes me nervous, because the county I live in has so many rules that a complaint can be filed for anything. It happened once to me and they can charge you $1000 a day to come into compliance and I live on 5 acres. It cost me a lot that I had to get rid of so much, but I didn't have to pay a fine. It is why I've decided to move. People escape from the cookie cutter lifestyle they created, then apply it all over again where they move and the cycle repeats.
  6. Chip Man, that piece of angle iron you see in the pictures is not part of the tractor. It is just resting there and the blade is resting on it. Keeping the blade up. It is just a piece of scrap. I just realized that might be why the blade looks more homemade than it should.
  7. I haven't seen anything that says IH on the blade so you are probably right Chip Man about "homemade", but it looks well built and not abused. The machine has the rear mount clutch pedal linkage. The crawler without radiator and with the blade has the front mount clutch pedal. The book I have says it's not authorized by IH. I guess they made their own like a Chilton, but this one is Jensales. It does say the standard clutch can be removed with the engine in place. It says that is not possible if there is a reverser or TA as it takes a different clutch. I was happy to see that since I should be able to do that on the trailer. An engine removal not. Thanks
  8. I think this crawler will work well for me, once it's operating. I like the looks of it too. I like that it's small. I have this narrow steep skid road that accesses an upper bench on my property. This crawler is how I will get up there. My plans are to get this one working on the trailer, then use it to pull the other one off the trailer. Where I live now is about 70 miles from where I want to take them off is. So It's not convenient to work on it there and my driveway here is now really clogged up. My neighbors I'm sure are wondering what's going on.
  9. So far we haven't sprayed any penetrants up in there, hoping the clutch would free itself, but spraying is next. The throwout bearing definitely won't slide on the shaft. In the book I have it says to remove the driveline, remove the shaft and the clutch then can be removed through the inspection cover. It says the engine doesn't need to be removed. All of this is helpful to know, but it doesn't give any more details. I'm thankful it doesn't say remove the clutch without anything more. If the shaft is frozen in the clutch, that will complicate things. If the clutch is frozen to the flywheel too that won't be good either. I'm going to believe everything is stuck inside the clutch. My guess is only the shaft comes out the back, the shaft slides out of the clutch and out of the throwout bearing. The throwout bearing is lubed by a rubber line. There are 3 bolts on the housing and one inside the shaft all of those have been removed. It doesn't look like there is anything to get a hold of to pull on the shaft except that bolt hole on the end of the shaft itself. Does this take a special puller? I still can't get under there. Thanks Sugermaker, for your thoughts. I'm resisting going to the Dr. cause I know what they will say. Total rest, plenty of fluids and prescribe muscle relaxers, which I won't take, because I hate the way they make me feel, unless this is totally killing me and I can't get out of the chair anyway. I'm not that bad yet. Hopefully someone will come along that has done this and is willing to explain what my son needs to do. Thanks
  10. Yes, I do need a good service manual, but cash is non-existent and it all is going on the credit card, which is not so good. Cleaned the carb, put on a coil from the other machine that had the IH logo(it liked that) and the engine runs very good and no smoke from the beginning. I've got to get the clutch out as it is froze up. I'm practically disabled with my neck and shoulder, so my son is helping under the machine. He took off the driveline but is uncertain how to get the throwout bearing and shaft out of the clutch. Any pointers are appreciated. Thanks
  11. What confused me was each tractor has a different clutch pedal. One has a front pivot and the one that is stuck that I'm trying to start has the rear pivot. It looks like both clutches will be rather easy to remove if necessary. That is once my neck and shoulder problem subsides. So far the tractor has not started, but I have had only 2 abbreviated attempts due to weak batteries and a slow charger. I think both have the standard PTO. What I haven't yet been able to determine is where the standard hyd pump is supposed to be mounted. I see there is an option for one on the front and the crawler with the blade has one on the back.
  12. I think also that the mouse nest was a large part of the problem. The clutch disk may also be stuck to the flywheel, but the clutch itself is stuck, it won't release. The clutch pedal is hard. It could also be the PTO that is somehow stuck. I'm not sure how the PTO works but the clutch pedal works both PTO and the clutch for the transmission. Thanks Kevin for the brochure, that is a very nice one. It also tells how the PTO is operated with the clutch pedal. I'm having a problem with a stuck pedal. It's possible it is in the PTO, but I think even though the first bit of travel stops PTO power, the transmission clutch looks the problem, but I'll have to check that out. Greg
  13. Well, I'm ready to attempt a start but the clutch pedal won't move so while it could start, it won't move. I think this problem relates to the large mouse nest up in the flywheel area. The clutch pedal is different between the 2 machines. The one that is stuck must be the constant running PTO because the lever goes back to the rear. I can't get under the tractor because I pulled a muscle in my neck or I'd be certain. If I could get up under the tractor I would pb blaster the clutch center. I'm guessing that is where it's stuck, unless it could be the PTO which I'm totally unfamiliar with. The steering levers move so I'm hopeful it will steer. Suggestions are welcome. Thanks
  14. I'm greasing the tracks. I have not done this before and don't know what to really expect. I read to pump grease into the roller until resistance is felt, which I assume means full. The question is if the rollers are empty how much will it take? So far I've put in 10 pumps in each and one I put in 35 with nothing showing. I don't want to waste grease, but I want to have the right amount in there too. Thanks
  15. Is there a parts wanted section or do I list what I need in a thread? I have a fairly long list.