Cattech

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About Cattech

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 02/01/1977

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Clear Lake, MN
  • Interests
    Yellow, Red, and Green diesel tech - old and new
    Corvettes
    Sleds and ATVs
    Cub Cadets, I run a 2165 currently

    in Pa's shed - IH 3788, H, '78 1460, 815 corn & soybean special - no more, he finally sold the old girl to some guy near Rochester, MN! JD 4320, 3010, Case 1845C


    and now, a Link Belt 4300C !@#$%^
    As if I needed another thing to fix...
  1. Usually you wouldn't get a thud with a pump failure unless it was catastrophic. Make sure the pump is turning and you don't have a gear train failure. If it's turning, I would take the pump and injectors off and bring them to a pump repair shop. Finding the exact part number pump will be difficult if not impossible because each PN represents the internal pump settings for the original application.... IE, 2 identical pumps, going on the same model engine, but with different HP ratings can have wholely different PN. Point being all the internal parts should being available and easy to get.
  2. Anyone planning to attend the Nowthen Threshing Show this upcoming weekend? Being I've seen the place nearly every year for the last 20.... I was going to skip it, but I see they are featuring Caterpillar. Of course I have to go now.
  3. I miss open snowmobiling of Yellowstone. Riding your own sled, going at your own pace.... instead of this rental 4 stroke sled in a guided group they have limited it to. I'm not sure how I'd like riding a horse for that long, but sure would like to see the secluded areas of the park your trip took you.
  4. There's two ECMs on the machine, and neither one controls the fuel shutoff solenoid. The solenoid is a simple standard wiring circuit from the key to a relay and from the relay through a fuse to the solenoid. The interlock system, controlled by one of those ECMs, runs the starter, the parking brake, and hyd enable solenoids - but not the fuel shutoff. IIRC, that's a two wire solenoid, and it'spowered to run. You can remove the solenoid and the engine should start. The solenoid gets power from one of the relays back in the engine compartment. The relays are all the same and can be swapped around for testing purposes. Pay close attention to the wiring going up to those relays, I think about 1/2 the electrical issues I ever had on those machines was in the harness just below the relays in the engine compartment, or down under the hystat pumps where the machine harness lays of over the frame. PM me an email address & S/N, I can send you the wiring diagram.
  5. My 1997 Cub 2165 during it's annual cleaning and service. This has been a real good tractor, though it does get this kind of care when the blower comes off and the mower goes on.
  6. I'd say Cub/MTD held out a little longer than most before cheapening them up.... longer than they get credit for. They had the cyclops tractors up to around '96, and as Dr.Evil said, those were still pretty similar to the IH Cubs. Then the 2000 and 3000 series with metal hoods were still pretty good machines. Around 2005 when the plastic hoods went on, all bets are off on quality, and man are they ugly.
  7. X2 on repowering the 318 with a modern V-twin, whether it's Honda, Kohler, Briggs, etc.... there are many kits available to make it an easy swap. And you won't believe how much more capable and efficient the tractor will be with the new powerplant. As to a zero turn, why wouldn't it pull your trailer? Think about it, they have their weight centralized around the drive tires to effectively steer, and the hydro's are built heavy since they have to take the abuse of constant speed and direction changes to facilitate turning. For a heavily built new tractor, unfortunately, JD is about the only game in town, and that green paint is expensive. By the sound of what you plan to use it for, I would think some of the lesser built brands - as long as you get one of their larger models - should do the job just fine. For a Cub Cadet, you may be interested in finding something used from the late1990's or early 2000's. The metal hood Cub 2000 and 3000 series are excellent machines and you can get them for $500 to $2500.
  8. If you have IVA (intake valve actuator) faults the engine will eventually derate. IDK the exact conditions that need to be met where the ECM activates the IVAs, and what the trigger to derate because of an IVA fault is, but that does sound like where your problem is. There are 6 IVA solenoids under the valve covers and a pressure sensor, very likely could be the wiring too. As to longevity, any engine can drop a valve, or get overheated, etc - and get rebuilt long before it would normally need an overhaul. With Cats, your normal single turbo pre-emissions engines usually are due around a million miles. The C13 acert 750k to 1M. The C15 acert, 1.2 to 1.6M but I have seen a few guys over 2M now. One guy just through the shop had 1.8M and 5 of 6 injectors were still original - he when he left it was 4 of 6. Big deal lately has been gliders, even fleets have been putting rebuilt older Cats in new chassis because they don't want a truck without a Cat under the hood. EGR, in 07 Cat adopted a version that pulls exhaust from behind the DPF. The 03 to 06 acerts have no connections between the exhaust and intake manifolds. They use the IVAs to bleed off combustion gases back into the intake.
  9. As someone mentioned above, every state is a little different. It sounds like the bank must hold the vehicle title until you satisfy the loan where you're at, I would figure all you need to do is ask the bank for your title, and they should just give it to you. Most likely scenario is they hold the title electronically and submit a request to your state DMV, who then sends a title, which probably will take a couple months. The letter you received is a courtesy notice that the loan is paid. Best thing to do is give them a call and ask.
  10. Simple explanation, if you look at the current title you should have, there will be a spot that says "Lein holder" or "first secured parties". This gives the bank who financed the car partial ownership in state records. If you go to sell the car and the new owner takes the title to the DMV to transfer it. When it has this area filled out, they cannot complete the action without a written release form or card. I have just stapled the release paperwork to the title so I wouldn't lose it. My titles are all kept in one secure place so I've never been too worried about leaving the Lein name on the title. When I sold those vehicles, I just gave the new owner the release card with the title. What the others above are suggesting is you pay for a duplicate title with the Lein holder section cleared out. I can see the logic, if you were to lose your release paperwork and then the bank loses their's or goes out of business, you would be hard pressed to get the title cleared in the future.
  11. Maybe trying to get in the modified garden tractor class..... I think it would win... I was thinking about doing the opposite to my Cub 2165, paint it like a CIH MX series.
  12. Very true, a 3208 set between 100 to 150 hp, even up to 200 will run forever. Unfortunately, Cat sold them at 250 - 275 in trucks and all the way up to 435 in marine applications. There was no reserve torque, they had to be running flat out to get the power. And when you push a small engine that hard something is eventually going to give.
  13. IF the right guy came along you probably have $500 worth of parts there. Problem is most 3208s have long since been retired and scrapped. You could pull it apart, save what's good and toss them on ebay, but don't be surprised if you have to sit on them for a yr. All depends on how valuable you consider your time.