pete23

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Everything posted by pete23

  1. 3pt hitch levers on a 50 series

    The friction control nylon bushings on the raise rate lever is accessible by removing the roll pin holding lever on and removing lever . The nylon bushings for draft control and positon control levers are more difficult. You have to remove the little cover and disconnect the mechanisms inside under cover. I think one is pinned but other is splined and has to be indexed. Easy to drop stuff down inside. I don't recall if you can do it with tank on or not. Been too many years.
  2. 606 hydraulic pump mounting flange mystery

    Probably shorter to prevent interference in some applications on the end that goes into the tractor. However, then again it may be too short for some as it seems to me that the original on some old tractors had the seal fairly close to the end of tube. Might be wrong on that though. At any rate, do as little rough measuring to be sure that when the tube is installed in pump, the seal will be fully seated in the bore in the tractor housing. If it is close to being where it belongs you can just install in pump and carefully install pump, observing from the filter side that tube is indeed entering the bore in housing and when you draw down pump mounting bolts, it will move seal on tube to correct spot. Lube the seal before installation so it can slide easily if necessary. Just be darn sure the seal is far enough toward inner end that it will indeed be fully in bore in housing.
  3. Used sleeve?

    It is easy to reuse a wet sleeve but the dry sleeves in your engine will require diligent removal of old sleeve and I would rigid hone it after installing it in different block just to take any kinks out that occurred during removal and installing.
  4. Hard starting gas 606

    How much work & repair did you do to the manifold. That two piece manifold needs to be taken apart and completely cleaned inside the preheat stove area. They get all plugged with carbon and no exhaust can circulate around inside of it to preheat the mixture. This won't help it start but will greatly help it run after a little warm up. The heat riser spring, plate and weight have to be doing their job to direct that hot exhaust onto the intake stove inside manifold. The starting and lousy running can very well be related to the manifold also. There are two different style manifold gaskets used and it is imperative that you use same style or you have to split manifold to get proper alignment of the two parts to the head. I have seen several of those six bangers that had one style gasket get put together with other style and then get air leaks along intake causing hard starting, miss firings and sputtering. You also need to set the timing with a light for the proper advance when engine is running full rpm's. I am not sure on a 606 but it is probably 22 degrees before top dead center. Then it should retard to very close to top dead center at low idle speed. You can also check static timing (engine not running) with electronic ignition same as with points, except you cannot look at the device to see when spark will occur. You turn distributor opposite direction of rotor rotation and use coil wire to see spark occur with engine at top dead center.
  5. Dow passed 24,000

    And that my friend is just another of your opinions.
  6. Dow passed 24,000

    Who you speaking to? I didn't reply to anything you have put down. I just stated a opinion on corporate tax rates being lowered.
  7. Dow passed 24,000

    Corporate taxes get passed on to consumer and then consumer says, costs too much. So corporation finds a place overseas to produce the product at lower costs. Now consumer buys product. That is why people say lower the corp taxes to get them to stay here and some more to come back here. Plain and simple. Will it work, don't know.
  8. The latest sexual harassment lawsuit

    Why can't we ever find out what O'Reilly actually did to those women. Lot of news that goes no where. To pay off one with 32 million and it was going on for some time, what the heck.
  9. 1066 throttle linkage

    One of the big problems with that throttle is that the ball gets down too far into the groove and then it takes a lot effort to move the throttle to shut off and that puts a strain on the parts. What I would do was drill the hole where spring and ball fit into and put in a larger ball. Worked on many really good.
  10. 86 series tach ?

    Like I said, I don't do colors but if it is a Dicky John it is not original and if it is Newport it is original. We had a whole lot of problems with that original style one and that is why IH went to a different supplier when they came out with the 50 series tractors (often called 88 series but 2+2 were 88 also ) and it was not available until 82, long after 86 series were out of production.
  11. 86 series tach ?

    The replacement data center for the 86 series was very similar to the 88 series. I just checked and the data center replacement made by Dickey John was released for service in May of 82 to replace original Newport design. I can't remember the colors like you guys who run them all the time but I am sure you are correct, it is not original. Easy to tell if you pull the two screws and look at the back to see mfg. The Dickey John also has several switches in back to set for proper model tractor whereas the original had a module you pulled out of the back with different part numbers for different model tractors. But, over the years I have worked on many tractors where the owner said it had never been touched and I clearly remember working on it previously. Never had a wrench on it.
  12. 606 hydraulic pump mounting flange mystery

    Seal comes on the tube. You will need to move seal on tube to proper depth. I usually do some measuring to get it close and then when I install the pump, let the pump push seal to it's final position when tightening the pump mounting flange. May come with a chart showing proper depth for your application, may not.
  13. Over-sized Load or Under-sized road?

    I read that story last night but it gives no clue how far it was being moved which to me would be the difference between poor judgement and outright stupidity. The powers to be have to be because of things like this.
  14. 1086 ta trouble? Maybe

    Use it in high side of Ta , no problem. As far as white smoke, well what was the problem that you changed pumps. White smoke is low temperature combustion. Can be caused by engine condition or late injection timing. The late timing can be the static timing pump was installed at, or can be the automatic advance is not working properly. It is called intravance and advances the timing with increase in engine speed. If it does not smoke at lower speeds but does at higher speeds it would be intravance. Smoke at all speeds would be static timing. That is taking into consideration the engine compression it';s self is not the white smoke problem. Pump shops and dealers have a timing light you can hook on and check timing when engine is running . That will tell you if advance is working and also if pump is internally marked and timed correct. The mark maybe put in the wrong place on the hub, ( not likely but possible as it is marked according to plunger lift to close of spill port).
  15. 986 Electrical Issues

    What is your voltmeter in tractor showing you. It should pop up into battery range when turning key on and then gradually move into alternator side when started. Those gauge are not accurate but they still show you if it is charging or not .
  16. 606 hydraulic pump mounting flange mystery

    Might want to start counting teeth on the driving gear also. I am not up on a 606 but can tell you that a 656 went through a series of changes on hydraulic pump drive gears. What they did was go to a larger capacity pump, then used a gear to slow it down to get same gals as smaller pump which was 12 gal per minute. They did this to reduce hydraulic noise. You may have same thing going on with that tractor so be sure to match pump gear and driving gear according to parts book. I would drop the lower cover and check back lash when pump is installed. Loose ok, tight with no or very little back lash is no good. On sucking air, the biggest culprit is always that seal on the suction tube. Has to have a nice crisp lip that fits bore nice and is at proper depth on tube when pump is installed. Usually replaced them but they are spendy now days.
  17. 1486 filter leak

    Cover is warped. Put a rubber band under the 0-ring for a temporary trial fix.
  18. C221 Rebuild Issues

    Just to add, the Zollner's have a Z stamped on I believe, the pin boss inside piston. I always liked to see 3.5 to 4 thousands clearance and that was what I could usually determine that a new piston had on the unworn bottom, (or top of bore). I saw some combine engines that were bored over sized where the machinist would give them .002 and that did not work out. They claimed to be going by the mfg specs and it was difficult to tell them to give them more clearance. This was back in the early 70's on 403 and 503 machines. My machinist claims that there is so much difference in the alloys now days that it is really difficult to know what clearance to use. He was talking about IH, Case and Deere diesel engines. Of course we did have pistons outgrow their hole back in the 60's, in particular on truck engines, mostly the LP versions.
  19. 1066 with spare parts in hydraulic filter housing

    I don't know if you drained the whole rear end or not but you need to. When you do it use a clean pail and check each section you drain for filings . Each axle housing, center housing and front drain plug under speed transmission. There is nothing in the shift mechanism itself to cause that amount of steel to be in the filter. Axle bearings can definitely go bad with no sign of leaking. When range cover is off to repair shifting mechanism you can inspect for pinion bearing problem. You need to determine where that metal came from or you will stand a very good chance of further damage. A usual spot for metal to accumulate is underneath the hydraulic pump. Metal from bull pinion bearings or gear will also end up in axle housing .
  20. Sad night for a good guy...

    I have about a half dozen Deere manuals on the 55 series tractors if he could use them as I never will . Picked them out of dumpster when dealer replaced when superceded.
  21. I know, that is pretty much what I am saying but I thought Ingersoll Rand was better than that. I am not an electrician so presumed this compressor would do the job. To get one that would easily handle my sand blaster would cost about three times as much and require me to rewire my garage. I looked at several other makes before I bought this one and It came closest to my situation and budget. Live and learn. The motor I have on there now I am sure is not much better but reducing the load keeps it running nice and cool whereas the original motor got , you might say, pretty darn hot. I did hook an ammeter on it also and did not see any thing that looked over the rated draw.
  22. I burned up a motor on my Ingersoll rand (actually wife was using it sand blasting) in less than one year. After a lot of back and forth , part of it due to me living in Mn and purchase made in S. D. Ingersoll did send me a new same model motor. Voltage when pumping near full pressure was over 230 volts coming into motor on the new one as that is what they wanted to blame problem on. Well, that motor got very warm after running for several minutes and I always tried to give it a break when I was doing the sand blasting. It could keep up but not get ahead so to speak. About 8 years later, another motor went. Would pop the breaker and not run up to speed with belt off compressor. I ordered a similar motor from somewhere, forget where now and I installed smaller pulley on motor, left same pulley on compressor. Compressor runs about 30 % slower but motor can run without even getting good and warm. A motor repair man said they just try to push those high speed motors too hard and are not capable of good service. He told me of converting to the lower speed motor with pulley changes on both ends but I took the easier way and less expensive way out as I don't need the compressor nearly as much anymore. I was really disappointed as I thought Ingersoll Rand, yaa, good stuff. Get what you pay for they say. Can you say Chinese.
  23. Lot of good information there. I hate those out of round bores but could live with maybe .002 ok. Have seen some with as much as .006. I wasn't working on that engine as someone was doing his own job and had me measure it for him. Sent him to the machine shop. Now, I have no idea if this is one of the engines involved or not but some where along the line, machine shop calls me about cracking sleeves in a 407. I gave him my usual thoughts about installing them and added you cannot push that sleeve in until it bottoms out and you need a tool to get proper depth. He says bull in not so nice a terms and we left it at that. Well, a few years later I was over there and we some how got into the discussion of sleeve cracking on those engines. He says, yaa, somebody told me they can't be pushed all the way down and have to be have specific protrusion. Takes care of the problem along with proper fit of course. I didn't say anything. He is a very good machinist , does excellent work but doesn't take to shall we say constructive advice.
  24. 986 - 66 similarities

    The cabs do not come with shifting mechanism so that is a whole different ball game. Also, the 88 series cabs are have a little more room behind the seat, couple inches. This might give you problems using the later shift mechanism, not sure. Might crowd your fuel tank, don't remember for sure but that extra length made it possible to set the seat to full rear position without contacting the rear upholstery of cab and ripping it off. Also made it a whole lot more difficult to get at the hitch internal adjustment of drop control valve under fuel tank, in front of rear cover.
  25. 1466 clutch boost remove and replace

    Take off that whole cab support. Year around is after market cab. I doubt any kits, just individual parts. Take note of the adjustment as the rear adjustment is to set the booster valve with no tension on input but no excess slack either. Front adjustment is for clutch free travel. Also, note you will be disturbing the pivot for the TA operating spool so be sure when done it contacts the snap ring lightly when TA lever is ahead.