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About pete23

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  1. 1066 TA hestitating

    No use raising the pressure. The low side of the TA is a mechanical drive over running clutch. It has a hydraulic pack operated by six small pistons that have enough pulling ability to pull a light load but are intended to prevent free wheeling, not pulling. When you shift from low to high that free wheeling clutch pack is released when you are in the middle part of the lever movement. Therefore you are totally depending on the over running clutch to pull the load. It is not grabbing ( not all the time at least) and therefore the tractor will stop moving until the Direct Drive clutch pack fills enough to pull the load. lf you apply the brakes when lever is in low side I believe your tractor will stop moving also as the hydraulic free wheeling clutch pack will not pull you with brakes applied . That is the way most people test to see if low side is working but that could be main clutch slipping also. I have a different method that I feel is better and will detect sprags that are working sometimes and not others. If your sprag (overrunning clutch) is really bad, just put ta lever half way between low side and direct drive. Tractor will stop if low side is bad. If sprag is not completely shot, works sometimes, I drive in direct at a speed where tractor will coast. Then I pull TA lever back and see if low side picks up the drive. With lever half way back no pressure is applied to direct drive or free wheeling clutch pack. Totally depended on the sprag to pull tractor. If it don't pick up the drive I hit the clutch just in case sprag should happen to grab to avoid a really harsh engagement. I learned that trick on first 806 tat the TA went out on. I shifted that TA a jillion times applying brakes and it would never miss a beat. Several tries with the coast method showed me the customer did actually have a complaint.
  2. 986 transmission/ brake trouble

    Well, that clarifies some things . Didn't realize brakes had quit only after bypassing the clutch booster.
  3. 5288 EGT probe

    That is the reason IH quit putting them on the 50 series tractors. Could not keep them working and time was running out on IH about that time. I believe Dickey John made the data center for them and it was supposed to be so superior to the ones used in the 86 series which were troublesome also.
  4. 986 transmission/ brake trouble

    You say you bypassed the hydraulics of clutch booster. How did you do that. Did you plug supply off or hook feed line to return line. Since the booster is a dead end street and only used fluid when clutch is depressed, you should have capped the supply to the booster to eliminate any leakage problem through booster. As far as the brakes, just hook a hose on the bleeder valves and see if you get a good flow through brake when pedal is depressed. Could be as simple as plugged orfice in feed coming into brake valve or as serious as worn out brakes or not enough regulated pressure from MCV. A gauge on regulated circuit would tell you a whole lot. You do not mention if the lube light works or not. It will tell you a lot also. It should come on with key before starting tractor, come on when clutch is depressed all the way and other wise , it should be out. I think you have a worn out clutch , unless your low side of TA is shot and your regulated pressure is way low. The low side of TA does not require any hydraulics at all to pull the tractor but the high side does. So, if low side is shot, and high side slips, you don't move, same as if a main clutch is worn out.
  5. Case-IH 5130 kicking our butt- suggestions needed

    I had a little experience with those when they were new. I learned enough about them to know I didn't want to know anymore. Drive you nuts and the salesman standing there, well you went to school and should know what is wrong. They have so many electrical components for different operations and every time you disengage one of them, like lifting or lowering the hitch, the de -energizing of the solenoid sends a voltage spike down the line and if there isn't a diode in that circuit, like there was not on the first ones, it would shut computer for power shift off. Stray voltages due to defective diode , same thing. I would permanently mount gauges in clutch pack circuits though and when it acts up, quick look.
  6. I put a lot of 856 air cleaners on 806 tractors. As far as single air cleaner element on 856, that was only on the custom and not other early or late 856. We sold just one custom and sure enough, guy beat up air cleaner and dusted the engine down good.
  7. Removing Roosa Master pump

    I bet the pump comes off and on easier and quicker now though. It is called experience. Good point on that fuel return as I completely forgot about that. I am going to ASSUME that it is the same as a 460-560 etc and they all have a spring loaded check valve in the fuel return fitting under bottom of tank. Some guys take the ball and spring out because of problems but that is not the correct thing to do either. I have seen the ball go right through the spring and block the return. Other problems in the check valve could partially block it also and cause you a problem. We lost the sale of a new 560 because that check valve was defective but that is another story.
  8. I'm glad you guys like them but I still see no need for them. That fan sucking the air into the front of the radiator and baffle making that dirt turn 90 degrees at full blast to get to the air cleaner is in my book more efficient than those up in the dirt precleaners. There was a problem with 06 and 56 series not having large enough hose from pre cleaner to air cleaner but that was addressed on the 66 series. That hose was pretty flat and would collapse part way or all the way. The right size tin can inside of it took care of that. The ones I didn't like was the 50 series with the top air flow which worked great in some places but terrible in other applications.
  9. Removing Roosa Master pump

    Turning guide stud in too far would cause it to be advanced at all speeds and loads so that would not be cause of white smoke. What the guide stud does is there is a bevel on guide stud that meets and matches the bevel on top of metering valve. There is a slot on metering valve that the farther down it is pushed down by guide stud the more fuel volume from primary pump is directed to the load advance. Do you have the static timing set at 3 degrees before top dead center. That engine is really picky. Late timing is what causes the white smoke but like I said, over advancing static timing to over come white smoke without knowing that the load advance is working properly is notttttttttt good. I mentioned fuel volume above so of course low primary fuel pressure would cause poor advance operation.
  10. Anybody remember the original baffle the 7 and 806 came out with. Up in the dirtiest corner of the whole front end. Just a little piece of tin that let all the air supply to engine go in largely unaffected by the air blast of fan. Early filter plugging was a problem and we only had single filter. IH sent out a bulletin where the improved baffle could be installed and I put on many. BUT, they sent a SKINNY too short piece of weather stripping along to seal the top and sides of the baffle. Well, some didn't fit too well and they still took on a lot of dirt. Took me a while to figure just calk the darn thing and be done with it. My brother in law, who could have trouble with anything, could run the whole season then. That baffle has to seal all the way around top and two sides for maximum efficiency. Many have air gaps or even bent out of shape. Of course, a turbo equipped engine uses a lot more air so results will vary. I also doubt if many actually check the restriction with a water mamometer to see what it actually is. A little smoked up inner filter can cause a lot of restriction that is blamed onto dirt in the outer filter.
  11. Asian Carp

    It's pretty much a losing battle with all these invasive species but you have to keep trying it guess. Here in Minn, you can't even take any remaining minnows you might have left, home with you if you have then in lake water. You are supposed to bring your own water from home to put them in then take them home. You know that isn't going to fly. We have the zebra mussels here in the local lakes now. Supposed to wash the boat off or let it sit in the sun I guess for a couple days before going to a different lake. Drain all water before leaving lake. I have never seen a boat that will drain completely. Always some left in the bottom. Then I ask, what do we do with the pelicans flying from one lake to another with their bills having contained over a quart of water. Do they drain it nice and dry in the sun. Need a pair of lawyers with you to just go fishing now days.
  12. Opinions on cut out relays

    A cut out and high low charge system is the most trouble free if that is what you are looking for. The reason any one went to a regulator is that in continuous work like day after day , a high low charge system will over charge the battery even on low charge and it is just a guessing game as to when you want high charge. In puttering around work, no problem and yes, the regulators of today are mostly junk. Deere went to the diode style cut out on old tractors and it will work on yours.
  13. Found oring in filter housing?

    Just not familiar enough with that model to make an intelligent response. I never like the sound of a Hydrostatic drive that works ok cold and gives up when hot. Good chance wear in the valve plates in hydro itself. Have seen some get lucky on larger models and when it seemed like internal problem, a new valve in drive selector solved the problem. I don't think you can isolate external controls from internal on that model very easy, so just don't know. Might try on the Farmall board of Yesterdays tractor as some of those guys are more familiar with that model than I am.
  14. Removing Roosa Master pump

    Had a post all typed up and zip, hit the wrong key . Anyway, the window you need is in my pickup but that won't help you. A diesel repair shop should have one to sell and all IH, Deere, and Acco dealers should have on in their tools. Don't know if they will loan them out, I used to . That pump has a load advance which means it advances at no load and retards under load. It should advance two marks on window at all engine speeds but not advance at all at cranking speed. It is best to adjust when on a dynamometer but can be done without. With engine running at low idle speed, Turn in adjusting stud on governor guide just enough to fully advance it the two marks , then run at full throttle and see if still advanced or needs a little more adjustment. Then I idle engine, pull throttle to full open right at the pump and watch timing mark. It should retard close to one full mark and then snap right back to full advance. When it does this you are pretty close to right on. Normally takes very little screwing on stud but being it was apart it may be way off adjustment.
  15. Removing Roosa Master pump

    Get a window on the pump to address the automatic advance is working. It sounds like it is not. Advancing the static timing may very well cure the white smoke but that is absolutely the wrong way of going about doing it until you verify advance is adjusted properly because then the timing will be wrong under a load where it is most important.