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About pete23

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  1. Factory setting is 1 degree before top dead center. If your picture of the old pump installed is for that tractor, you apparently had marks lined up when you took it off. lf not, there may or may not be a dot on the drive shaft to correspond with dot in pump, or possibly a offset on the driving lug.
  2. I guess I will have to go with the self explanatory as I have never actually used one, just know of others who have. I would think it just goes on shaft up to the larger diameter of shaft unless it fits over the larger part then it would just go on as far as possible without contacting the bushing or housing allowing for a little end play in TA.
  3. First of all, how steep of a hill. Block it securely so it cannot roll before you attempt any more. It sounds like you have a clutch problem if you say the clutch does not feel right along with a TA out of adjustment. If you cannot get it out of gear by pulling the TA lever back while also pushing the clutch in, you can release the tension by jacking up one rear wheel. Then go from there to determine your problem.
  4. Those numbers include the ones that were just turned away which really makes the count totally inaccurate. I believe walls do work. I don't think we can build one the entire length of the border but some of that area is really tough to access from the other side and will require extra effort on getting here. Any time you require extra effort it reduces the number . As far as the ocean, yes, they are coming in on the coast right now. There again, requires lot of extra effort thus reducing the numbers. Have to get real tough on those caught coming in so the message gets across. Just to show how liberals think, our governor wanted to make it legal for illegals to get a drivers license. Says, it would make the roads safer. We in Minn needed to update our drivers license to federal standards and I think, if I read correctly, the bill was passed and signed without the stipulation for illegals to license up.
  5. Looks like you need to replace it . If you clean that up your clearances will be excessive. Might be worth a try but I would not expect real good results. Be sure to lube that or different pump with a heavy lube that will stay on during assembly.
  6. I believe you will have to take the pto apart, BUT, before you do any more, have you tried to adjust the PARTIAL engagement pressure. That is adjusted with that lock nut loosened and screwing the hex stem housing in or out to obtain correct pressure. You do that by feeling the stem when you are pushing it down . You will feel where a definite change in effort takes place. You screw the hex nut in or out to obtain about 40 to 50 psi. You may not be able to accomplish that if you do indeed have a leak inside pto but it is certainly something that has to be tried . If that adjustment is way off the pto pressures will be all over the place. I have seen, (I think I said this previously) where a customer and his friend screwed that in or out and got pto to work because it was slipping. They ran extremely high pressure as it blocked off the relief valve and blew the unit open. You had the valve out so it does indeed need adjusting, even if you repair the unit, be doubly sure to do this after assembly.
  7. I will just add, after you unhook the rod, turn the little lever complete circle and note how easily it turns. This is moving the control sleeve up and down . When you put it back together, dot up like stated, it should turn completely full circle just the same. If it does not, remove and reinstall. Personally, I think you would be very lucky if that was the actual problem with leak though.
  8. I never used a test harness, but, couldn't you just unhook one of the solenoids to either odd or even side and then it could not drive in that side, or lock up both .
  9. Well, it's your tractor so of course you can do it either way you like. For me, I would replace the seals on left side as it is super easy and if it still leaks, you will be needing to find different parts that aren't worn. If you pull whole thing right away and it still leaks, then you get to take every thing apart again and find different parts anyway.
  10. Is this a D-312 or possibly a D-310. My memory is not really sure if they ever used a D-310 in a 666 or not. BUT, if they did, that pump is known to lose it's prime. If (most likely is ) the D-312 and the only thing is have seen is worn out or seized. It will stop an engine dead if seized.
  11. 1066

    The third terminal is for a tach on some applications, but IH always used it to operate a relay for the warning light in the combines. It has no purpose on a 1066 but it also makes absolutely no difference, so don't worry about it. You have to determine if you have , of course full battery power on the main charging heavy wire, battery power to the wire that hooks to number two on alt at all times as that is the sense lead for the voltage regulator. Just a rusty or loose connection on number two can and will cause an over charge or a no charge condition. Then, number one comes from ign switch, to resistor under column and should have power only when switch is turned on. When unhooked from alternator, a test lamp will light fairly bright, depending on the resistance value of the resistor, but will be very dim when hooked up to alternator. If you have all that and no charge, you can be sure alternator is problem.
  12. The left side can be done without even draining the tractor. If you go to get new o rings, the parts book has always been messed up on those cat 2 hitch's and shows the second o ring on the right side but it is actually on left. Two o rings on left side. If grooves are worn in parts o rings might not last too long. If you want to do right side , then you have to take pto out and torsion bar out. It is the category 3 that you have to take shaft out for both sides.
  13. There is no block to eliminate a valve. The tractors with only two valves had slightly different lever hookup. What I would do is find another valve to replace the teledepth valve. You cannot just leave that teledepth valve ( well, I should qualify that statement, you can leave it but you have to block it with a lockout cover so it stays in neutral positon) . Your linkage to the now new valve will need to be worked on to make a good operating system. You need to get rid of the quadrant and friction device. You can leave the pipes to rear so you will now have a rear hook up. Also, you can leave the check valve if desired so it will positively hold loads from drifting down, or up. I say up because we used them that way to hold knife in the ground when applying nitrogen.
  14. Just for a quick test, take the old orfice and drill it out quite a bit. Even to a 16th of an inch and give it a try. If it stays on low pressure standbye that way, you at least know everything is hooked up right and together right. If it still goes on high pressure, (actually it should not even work to raise or lower hitch with that big a hole, ) you know something is wrong in the regulator valve block assembly. Like I said more than once, those new orfices have to be drilled out on many to compensate for wear in the regulating land area of all valves, especially teledepth valve. Also, you need to know how much pressure it actually builds. Normal 1500 max pressure should not kill engine unless you have WAAAAAy to big a pump.
  15. I (after having problems getting those covers to seat properly) always put the cover on without the gasket for checking the fit. I will grind down some of the corners of those guiding pieces so cover fits flat on head, no gasket. Some are a lot worse than others. You can easily squeeze the sides if bulged but a bow from end to end will take more work.