c1456

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About c1456

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  • Birthday 08/25/1975

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    Tupelo, MS
  1. The rubber on the damper/harmonic balancer.....whatever the correct term for it, has failed. After doing some research I see new ones are NLA. Used ones seem to be available, but kinda hate to take a chance on a used part that could be old as mine that has turned loose. I've read some on the places that offer a rebuild option, particularly one place called Dale's Manufacturing out in Oregon. Just curious as to what everyone's take on going with rebuilt vs used would be on this scenario.
  2. 10 bolt hub question

    Sorry about the typo but yes I did mean the 23.1-34's. thanks. The 1206 in question has what looks like factory cast centers and they are bolted to a 10 bolt hub that is clamped to the axle. Tractor is used to Bushhog an such and he was wanting to change over to 38 inch tires. We came across a set of 10 bolt dual rims with good tires and were trying to see if said duals would bolt up to those hubs already on the 1206.
  3. 10 bolt hub question

    Got a buddy that has a 1206 with 23.1-24's that are attached with what looks to be 10 bolt hubs. My question is, is this the same 10 bolt pattern as say the 10 bolt pattern on the hubs on a 1586 and such???
  4. 966 with hiniker cab

    Does yours still have the condensor on the rear of the cab that uses the two electric fans? If so make sure all that is flushed out and air is flowing well thru that. I had a 1566 that had the same cab and it worked as well as it was going to. Always put out cold air, but didn't cool as well down towards your feel. Lot of heat up thru the dash and cowl to overcome in those but it's possible. Good interior helps. One thing to think about if yours has not already been done this way is to find an 86 series in the junkyard and get all the stuff you need to move the condensor in front of the radiator and mount the dryer up in that area as well. Then you never have to worry about those electric fans on the back of the cab again.
  5. Case front end under 186

    http://www.redpowermagazine.com/forums/topic/47104-hd-axle-installed/?hl=square+front+axle Link to the topic about the 1586 upgrade.
  6. Case front end under 186

    It maybe in the archives here now but there was a member on here highlighted upgrading his 1586 to the late model ih square front end. I think he took his out from under an 1844 cotton picker which is the same as what was under the late 88 series. Find that post and you should get the info you need.
  7. Blackstripe 1566 worth saving???

    Here will be a little inspiration for you. We save'd one, black stripe 1566. I originally bought mine for parts for another 15 I had. I got to checking the parts tractor over and quickly discovered very little wear on the 3 pt and rear drawbar. Very little wear in the clutch and brake pedals. I knew the engine was bad as it had a broken crankshaft. I removed the hydraulic filter and cut it open and it was clean. I knew I had to have an engine. We got lucky and came across a late model 1586 that ran very good but had hydraulic problems and we got it purchased for a very good price. Put them in the shop side by side and split them and rolled the whole front half of the 1586 up to and bolted it to the 1566. There was a good many small items that had to be changed over between the two once we got it bolted back together but we made a very good tractor. BUT, we didn't have any rear end issues to look into. Before After
  8. 900 plate planter

    There was a cast iron bottom available for those. Ours originally had a pot metal bottom and those will wear. Mine didn't show any problems with soybeans or rounder type corn seed. But when we planted a flat type corn seed is when the wear showed up. It would throw seed out between the plate and the bottom. Updated to the cast iron bottoms and never had anymore trouble with the flat corn seed. I think it would have to have a lot of wear for a soybean seed to get by. If yours has the cast bottoms it will be obvious by looks and weight. Shouldn't be a problem with those.
  9. Farmall 460 hydra touch valves.

    It's nothing special but it does run good. I've already replaced a rusted out manifold, tuned it up, changed the oil and a few other misc. things. Got some more sheet metal to acquire and got to do something about the seat.
  10. Picked up a farmall 460 with 2 pt hitch, 62 model gas burner. The far right lever for the teledepth 2 pt hitch works great. Apparently the hydraulic lever closest to the hood and the middle lever haven't been used in a long time. I thought at first the linkage may be froze up but it's not the linkage. Seems like the spools in the valves are stuck. I know where I can pick up a couple of valves that are not stuck so I want to replace these. Question is to replace these ( will be the valve on the far right and the one just to the left of it under the dash), can I remove them from the right hand side of the tractor or do I have to start in at the left hand side and remove the teledepth valve to get those other two off?