DT361

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About DT361

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 03/23/1964

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    Male
  • Location
    Galesville, Wisconsin

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  1. 56 series diamond cab vs 66 series cabs

    I, personally, have not spent any time in either one - so I can't help you there. But I do see that 66 cab just popped up on the LaCrosse WI CL a couple days ago for a couple hundred bucks...seems cheap enough. Certainly could use paint and who knows what else. I have no affiliation with it; just happened to see it. Search "IH Cab" and it should pop up. I also see an "Ear-a-pounder" for a hundred - you can probably guess my opinion of those...... Mark
  2. Sick 1066

    Personally - I'd put in the 5gal of Hytran and mark that level on the stick. Then see what changes from there.Even if you do have to change the filter later, you won't lose too much Hyran.....just park on a reasonable side-hill with the filter cover up-hill. On the upside, the sprag in your T/A is still good! Mark
  3. Sick 1066

    Might be pump, but.... Replace the hydraulic filter? The 'whine' may be the bypass valve 'singing' as fluid is drawn through it. Inspect for debris. Overfill the trans by about 5 gallons - if there's an air leak, that might get it 'underwater' so to speak. 3-point and remotes work OK? - different pump, but same filter. Mark
  4. Slow Coyote in a round bale of hay

    Oh great....Thanks Maynard.... now all the Waco TX folks are going to be spamming us cheese heads with this image come Nov 20! Mark
  5. 1206 serial number

    A couple more popped up on Madison WI CL. I have no affiliation and no other info than what's in the listings. Both Farmalls, #'s 7599 and 8327. 7599 has the original style Perfex oil cooler and has newer name badges. 8327 has decals, but the newer oil cooler. 8327 would have been built in Dec. 1965, so not sure if cooler correct and decals wrong or vice-versa? Thanks Mark
  6. 1206 serial number

    Back to the top and with another number: Farmall F1206D #9322 S-Y on Eau Claire WI CL. No other info known and no affiliation to this tractor. Looks purrty and new shoes - asking price is up there purrty nice, too! Thanks Mark
  7. 450 gas TA

    Tractor Data indicates 1795 made. Seems that would be fairly rare compared to the row crops which they made a lot of. That said, I have no clue what it 'should' be worth, but I wouldn't think the T/A being out would have much affect on price. Thanks Mark
  8. 966 pro problem

    Probably available on Fleabay if you're into that. Highcap dealer or IH. Boatload of internet suppliers. Kind of depends on how much shopping around you want to do, or fast you want to get them. I believe you'll find them fairly common. Thanks Mark
  9. 966 pro problem

    lmk, Gotta luv 1st time out making hay!....always somethin'.... (your approx location?) Single speed 1000 pto, or dual speed 1000/540? On the 1000, it's straight through - input shaft right through clutches and out to output stub. There are really no gears in play on a 1000 single. On the dual, there is an idler gear that's driven from the 1000 and drives the 540 - all constant mesh; if one turns = both turn, or it's gears for sure. 540 driven gear is part of the 540 shaft. In any case, is there any side-to-side/up-down/in-out play in either shaft? With PTO running, any visible wobble in either shaft? Engine off!, grab 'em and reef on 'em as hard as you can all directions (bearing check). Twist the 540 too, to try to find a broken tooth - one shaft shouldn't turn more than a smidge without the other turning (gear check). Brake - assuming it's working (spring-loaded 'engage') - is going to fight you for turning and also for play in the 1000....will try to hide play in that shaft because there are three actuators pressing against the back of the clutch drum taking up slack. To overcome the brake for gear check, you'll probably need a pipe wrench or something - you shouldn't be able to turn it by hand. Rebuilding a pto isn't that bad at all, with the exception of the main clutch spring - you need to borrow/rent/fab a spring compressor less you take a flying spring to the face (run a search here - there are threads with pics, and how to make one). Once you're that far, there's a snap ring at the bottom of the clutch housing that likes to break its ears off....a real joy to get one out like that, but with persistence, she'll give. Rebuild kits with brakes are about $150 I think; If you rebuild... soak your new clutch plates in Hytran for a 1/2 hour or so before reassembling! Pretty fair number of threads on here about rebuilds, too...pick-up tube and screen, pump check, pressure adjustments, linkage....all things you'll need to address if you have to go that far. Good luck Mark
  10. 826 needs a little love

    Per ihfarmer1586 - definitely check and adjust your clutch and dump valve first. Most basic check is for about 3/4" free play between the operator deck plate edge and the clutch pedal arm BEFORE the throw-out bearing makes any contact when you move the clutch forward with your hand. Simple, engine-off check. From there, all gets more complex the further you have to go. Putting in a T/A isn't super bad or anything, but there are a number of clearances and dimensions that have to be checked/set. Also a number of "while you're in there" things to do. Whereabouts in MN?....don't suppose anywhere near Winona? Thanks Mark
  11. 826 Serial Number Registry

    RTF, Somewhat off-topic, but since you grabbed the 826's, any thoughts on if you'd like to add the 1026's into the mix, too? Just curious - I didn't see anyone else having them in the registry-keepers listing. Total possible would be about 2300, I believe. All were Hydro. I bring this up because I'm looking into a 1026 that's somewhat local, saw no registry, and will not hijack this thread further. Thanks Mark
  12. Serial number plate

    Independent (live) PTO with the ability for a Torque Amplifier option, I think. Someone else probably knows for sure. Thanks Mark
  13. I know nothing about this TA

    That type of TA is not hydraulic - fluid probably won't make any difference because it's, essentially, a 'dry' TA, It has a disc type clutch at the front of the TA input that directs the power to either TA (lever pulled back), or Direct (lever forward). It's positioned pretty high up in the housing....I think you can see/inspect it through a top cover? I'd have to re-read the operation theory, but as I recall, that clutch is released for Direct and engaged for TA....but I could very well have that backwards. When driving downhill; does it ever freewheel (no engine hold-back) at all? In TA, it would freewheel because the power is coming through an over-running clutch (ramp and roller type), so under load, the rollers jamb to the ramps, but under deceleration, the opposite occurs and the roller slide down the ramps and can rotate. The over-running clutch works opposite of the disc clutch - Jambing (engaging) in TA, and over running (releasing) in Direct....(i think - don't quote me ). For your pic of the bottom: That front cover that's missing is the clutch inspection cover I believe. That area is intended to be dry. The cover right behind it is where the fluid is, If you're getting fluid into the clutch area, it's likely the front seal of the trans input (if Hytran/80-90/whatever) or the rear crank main seal if it's engine oil. Yeah - a split if you want to fix. For what it's worth, I've been running mine for around 20 years with the TA non-functional, but no significant oil leak(s). All mine does, really, is rake, pull hay wagons, or occasional brush hog or box blade duty...no real work to speak of. So - if the lever position makes no difference (linkage all assumed connected and correct), and the tractor doesn't free wheel downhill, I think your front TA clutch isn't releasing and your just staying in direct. You might be able to do something for that (or see something that's 'wrong') from the top side of the housing? Seems to me, there is some adjustment on the release fork, but again, don't trust my memory! Thanks Mark
  14. Adjust Coaster brake on bicycle

    Wow! - now here's a topic I never would have expected...basically forgot these existed Lifted from web: you leave it in the bike, but loosen both axle nuts. Use an adjustable wrench to turn the whole axle, screwing it in or out of the left cone, then re-tighten the axle nuts once the cone adjustment is correct. Good luck Mark
  15. Best method to attach rear wheel weights

    I believe pretty much all clamp-style can be started out as solids for the 1st weight. If I recall, wedge style need a split-weight first and then your choice from there on out. Thanks Mark