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About sawmill

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  1. If you pull the thermostat,it won't need to bypass,because it is then a full flow system. The bypass is only needed when a thermostat is used,to provide coolent until the thermostat opens,to the full flow position. If you have a sticky,or partially opening thermostat,the engine will run cooler without it. The only thing lost is the ability to maintain operating temperature in cold weather.
  2. Dubuque Not upsetting me,hidden in your post ,there is a pearl. The burning extra diesel part is what these old engines were designed to do. When they were new, diesel was dirt cheap, with lots of sulpher ,and oil. If you had of mentioned a thin grey haze then,they would have laughed their butts off. A brand new TD18,or TD24 with the proper fuel at the time,working like they were meant to do,would belch copious amounts of black smoke. So would the old Cats,and pretty much everything else. The crap that they call diesel now,is dry,thin,and doesn't burn right in those old engines. It is just like advancing the timing,or leaning out the fuel supply,and builds heat, in the heads and cylinders faster under a load. Trying to run a TD 18 now like it was built to use would be a little much,without some fuel system tweaking. Yep a lot of the old timers jerked the thermostats out for hot weather running. I can't really say if it hurt anything ,but it did seem to help sometimes. I have ran lots of old 18's and 24's back when they had to pay their keep,and learned a thing or two from the really experienced owners and operators. Most times a cracked head can be traced right back to the operator, service,or owner,and not paying attention to details. Nope the design was not the greatest, but if a guy learns how to handle eggs ,he won't break too many of them either. There was some hard and fast rules ,that those old guys insisted on ,and the strictest was, checking water,checking the radiator,fan,belts,cap, and hoses,then check the oil.By the way did you check the water? Keep that temp between 160,and 180,but if it is a short hard pull, it can go to 185 ,but you better back out of it,and cool her down slow. They were really picky about that throttle too. Pulling or pushing under a load and dumping the throttle to a low idle, when you stopped for a spell,didn't fly too well either. A hand that was a little too quick revving the old critter up ,could cause a feller to learn some new words too. Oh yeah and if it wants to keep creeping up to 185,something ain't right. Here is some of their reasoning. Number 1,crap happens. Believe it or not it is not only possible to kill a dozer in a hard push or pull,but it happens. Sometimes they even die on their own ,due to fuel,or mechanical problems. Then there is always the old emergency shut it down now routine. For some reason the temperature always raises in a head after a fast shut down. If you was running at 190 or above when that happens,it may not work out in your favor. Running a low radiator on a slope or when going over a hump or bank,can ruin your day too. An engine that is not firing even as in un balanced cylinder combustion ,will heat too. That can be as bad as having it out of time,when it is working hard. Pede is right about fan pitch, and the shroud too. If any little part of the cooling system on a TD 18, or TD24 is out of whack, it will over heat,when working hard. Running and keeping those old machines is like learning how to file and use a crosscut saw. A feller can either learn how to work with it ,or you can stay tired and broke. I don't know how many of you guys,are old enough to remember,when most folks would, drain the water out of their car every evening in the winter,and fill it back in the morning. Well lots of old dozer owners did the same. Sometimes they forgot too. Even if they didn't forget, all that straight water,and questionable water,made for some pretty rusty and scaled up old cooling systems. Dipping it out of a mud hole didn't help either. A lot of those old dozers had some pretty crude owners too. Gosh Dubuque only the first few lines in this book,was pointed your direction.Didn't mean to go time traveling on you fellers dime.
  3. If you had some really tall chairs,it would make ,one heck of an outdoor card table,wind proof and maybe portable. No winch,no canopy,no screens ,no engine guarding,no sweeps,worn out angle dozer, doesn't add up to anything that,you would want to drag logs,or pile slash with,unless it is in a corn field. Maybe push a little snow in your drive way,or a trail to the dog house, if you are married. It does have the high speed reverse escape track mod though. Looking at the seat style, and the way it is covered,don't count on getting it in the deal. Looks like he borrowed it from his wife's van. It also has the prescription version trunions ,that snap your back into place when hitting a rock,and keep you awake. She's a beaut Clark! Not to worry though,if it cost $20,000,to fix you could then sell it for,maybe $10,000,you got to stay positive. Just kidding,if you turned the tracks around,and the innards are not thrashed It might make a pretty decent old dirt pusher. All of the visible wear and defects can be a pretty easy fix. As long as the engine runs good,it steers good,no clunks from the bevel gear, and the converter and transmission works decent,it would be worth looking into.
  4. I am a logger too,and I wouldn't waste time fooling around with a grinder. Learn how to hand file ,if you want a saw that really cuts right. Most of those chain grinders are too loose and floppy to be accurate. They will also case harden the teeth ,so that you can't file them ,or burn all the temper out,to the point of being junk. Just the thought of attacking a chain with an angle grinder,shivers me timbers.
  5. If a Galion or Adams grader has an engine in it that starts with the TD prefix,it is a transplant from a dozer. The original engines in those machines started with the UD prefix. I have an original 44 model Adams,with original olive drab paint ,Marine Corp.stencils,and brass tags,in running condition. I have owned several Adams,Wabco,and Galion graders,and know a little of their history. Adams only started using the IH diesel engine in their graders in 1943. Westinghouse bought Adams in 1953,the same year that RG Letourneau ,parted company with Westinghouse. Westinghouse scrapped the Adams line of graders in 1955,and introduced their own grader. When you see an Adams 440,or 660 vintage machine,it is really a Wabco running under the Adams Trademark. Here is where lots of confusion got started. They still used the Adams name for their own new Wabco line until 1960. Any grader after 1955 using the Adams name is really a WABCO designed and built machine. Westinghouse dumped the old gas start IH engines soon after buying out Adams. Westinghouse also did the same thing ,with the LeTourneau name,and started more confusion. RG Letourneau made an agreement with Westinghouse not to produce any earthmoving machinery for 5 years when he sold his first company to Westinghouse in 1953. He worked on designing forestry, and government experimental contracts during that time. Up until then his best selling machines were mechanical drive scrapers,pull scrapers,and attachments. This is what Westinghouse bought in the sale, RG started a new company ,also using the LeTourneau name,at the same time in 1955. Wabco designed and built the Wabco electric drive haul truck ,using General Electric drive motors, and generators ,after the split. In 1958 RG started producing his own ,designs for the commercial earthmoving business,as in the L series scrapers, log stackers, drilling equipment, and later loaders, haul trucks,and much more using electric drive. Both companies continued using the Letourneau name long enough to confuse a lot of folks. The Wabco electric drive machines were their own design, and engineering,and this is what was sold to Komatsu. Komatsu was interested in the Haul Pak trucks, and loaders. RG Letourneau later sold his company to Marathon,and it became Marathon Le Tourneau,then was sold to Rowan,who sold it to Global Joy. The drilling equipment division was sold to Cameron . Global Joy is still producing Letourneau machines ,as in loaders ,log stackers,and more,still using the Letourneau tradename too. All of the old RG Letourneau electric drive machines used DC drive motors. They only updated to AC drive motors in their loaders in 1996. Their new machines all use a SR ,as in Switched Reluctance drive now.
  6. Yes it was gas start,but had the new style heads,and a serge tank for the cooling system. I bought it from the original owner,and it had less than 3000 hours at the time.
  7. My old 57 model 24 only had a single stack . It came from the factory like that.
  8. A little something to think about. When a ram bends,it stretches and weakens the metal. Bending it back stresses it even more,and it will never be as strong as it was new. Any good hydraulic shop ,can make a new ram,tube,or piston. My experience with rams that have been straightened ,is that they will just bend again in the same place,or break,from stress cracks.
  9. Jacksprat Real happy ,that everything worked out for you. That is a pretty nice looking TD9 too. We got a little snow up on the mountain nothing serious though. I got a kick out of your little joke too. It is a good thing ,that you didn't have to wait on me for parts. I still haven't had a chance to get away from the house. My wife is confined to a hospital bed,and an oxygen concentrator 24/7. Without someone to watch her I can't get out of hearing distance. Even then I have to make a visual check every few minutes. I have darn near wore out my ladder climbing up and and down from the roofing project to check on her. I got the roof finished ,and near as I can tell, I should have the rest of the remodel finished in about 10 years at the current pace.
  10. DDR I think the skidder will be just fine for your use,and L.M.Reese is right about the chains,they should be on the front axle,for best performance. With the chains on the front,it will help pull the machine through snow or mud and keep it going straight. Keep the planetaries full of oil and you should do just fine. The extended frame is a plus,and you will appreciate it too. The Gearmatic 19 is a good winch,and simple to keep working right. The Detroit is a tough little engine,and pretty trouble free too.
  11. I am not an expert on S7 skidders. In general IH skidders are as rare as hens teeth in the part of the country that I log. What few that do show up are S10,S8,and once in a great while an S11. The S7,S9,and S11,are actually Hough designed machines. IH sold them for awhile,then refined them with upgrades and design changes into the S8,and S10 IH Paylogger. I have owned a couple new S10's, and an S11,and worked around a few S8's. In my opinion the last series of S10,and S8's were really good machines,the S11,not so much. If you are just puttering,or part time logging,then the Hough machines are just fine. They are good solid machines,but were built during the learning curve,and are a little clunky,and left handed compared to some of the competition of that time.
  12. Adjust the tracks ,so that they still have about an inch sag between the top roller and front idler. Adjusting tracks too tight is a sure way to screw up an undercarriage,and if they are too tight ,they will jump off quicker than being a little loose. Even on the new TD8's ,the track adjusters will creep back ,if you are working it,because the front idlers take a lot of pressure,and pounding. That even gets worse with tight tracks. With a little experience, you can adjust them just fine by feel and eyeball. While running,you can feel the slap when they need adjusted. The tracks on a machine are just like the chain on a chainsaw. Keep them at the sweet spot, and they won't fall off,or overstress all the moving and wear goodies,such as pins,bushings, sprockets,idlers,bearings,shafts,and seals. I have used lots of TD8's on some of the worst ground that you can imagine,and never lost a track. Also the center pivot on those dozers has always been a pain because they wear fast,and create a lot of flop. This will cause them to washboard,and hop over rocks and hard spots. When new ,they had wear shims,but should have had more. If all the shims have been removed, all you can do is remove the retainer plates and build them back up. Whoever that designed the bushings in those dozers ,should have been shot. They don't have anyway to lock in place,and will turn in the bore,just enough ,that they won't take grease. The track length,rigid undercarriage,and the way that the dozer is mounted,all factor into how it grades. Even with everything,in good shape and tight,it takes some skill to maintain a smooth push at distance. Throw in the blade wobble and slop,then it gets tough.
  13. If it is close to an old planer or sawmill,I would say it is a home built shaving baler. I have a factory genset with that same power unit.
  14. Tuscarora trader I was wondering about the same thing too. With old equipment there is a really big chance that it has been cobbled up out of whatever was handy. Some of the early T9's and TD9's did have a 6 volt starter,with positive ground. As long as it is 12 volts the ground wouldn't matter. Finding the correct nose cone and drive in a MT30 or MT35 may not be easy either. IH had a habit of tweaking parts,so you had to buy from them too. I have a Lincoln welder that locked the starter and broke the nose cone. It has an F160 Continential engine. Those are cheap except,Lincoln used their own nose cone,and you have to use a starter special made for their bell housing. Thanks to their tweaking that lousy little starter cost twice as much as a new one for my D5. If the starter had been for a stock F160 it would have been $35.00,and I had two of those laying on a shelf. Jacksprat I am glad to hear that your Brother is still with the living,and hope that you have a great time. It is possible that I have the stuff that you need . I am the Health care giver for my wife, and that is a 24/7 job. If I can get away,I will sort through my treasure trove of parts. I inherited lots of that stuff,and just need to dig through it. For pulling the injectors ,I just use a small rolling heel bar,and tap the injector on the flange with a small brass hammer to free it up.
  15. Jacksprat No I was never in the service. I hope that when you said that you would visit your brother,that you mean as in a real live visit,and not at the wall. Your starter issue doesn't really make sense,after giving it some thought . There is three types of starters for those TD9's. There is the lever or plunger type with direct battery connections. There is the solenoid type where the solenoid is mounted on the starter,and is activated with a push button switch. Then there is the type with an external remote mounted solenoid and button or key switch. It sounds like someone tried using a remote solenoid type starter ,by just using a button and no solenoid to handle the amp load. That would be a sure way to make some excessive heat, and not create enough amps to spin the starter under a load. If this is the case,you would need a switch that is amp rated more than the battery starting amps,as in major breaker switch,not a button. The solenoid for my TD9 is mounted on the engine block. The starter button is only intended for supplying enough amps to energize the coils in a solenoid,not to power the starter.