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  • Birthday 08/29/1976

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    Modesto California

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  1. Super H implement drive sprocket question

    Thanks DD
  2. Have a pair of these off a Super H. Anybody have an idea what implement they are intended for? I have no use for them
  3. TD35 starter

    Yes if it's the Delco 710 gear reduction starter it will fit. The later 14's direct drive starters won't fit in the space between the block and chassis.
  4. TD35 starter

    Flange is exactly 1.5" thick. You can make a paper gasket off of the starter flange and use as a pattern if needed. Other than thickness it doesn't have to be high precision as the tractor uses the mounting bolts to align the drive. Regards, Andrew Hinkle
  5. TD 35 w/ 45 degree head

    charlie r, sent you an email
  6. TD 35 w/ 45 degree head

    7288cdn, I don't know if there was ever any of the very late 35 or 40's available with the single plunger pump conversion from the factory. But It wouldn't surprise me if it did. They made many changes to these tractors, especially the TD40, they all look basically the same but there were a great many changes made. That's too bad you don't have a serial plate. However, you can narrow it down to year model by decoding the casting date on the main case if it hasn't been changed at some point. Yours should be underneath the seat right on top of the man case, forward of the steering clutch fork shafts. Should look like: 6.30K which translates to June 30 1941. Below the text of this message I will put the lettering code list, hat tip to MDiesel for providing it to me awhile back. If you have problems finding it I can post a pic of the location. Not all 35's came with electric start, per the parts book its a special application. I have seen a couple 35's with no ring gear, one of them didn't even have a machined shoulder for the ring gear. But I'm certain they all have the main case, bell housing plate, and front tub manufactured to accommodate the starter, unlike the TD40. Are you sure that is a 45 deg head on yours? Not trying to contradict you but I hadn't noticed before only seeing the picture on my phone Now seeing it on the big screen it appears to be the original 10 deg head. I may be mistaken but if it is a 45 deg it should have a line of 8 freeze plugs on the injector side of the head (see pic). Also, per the factory manual the 45 deg conversion requires the hood cut out to accommodate the re-located air cleaner which has to be moved away from the block to provide clearance (see pic). They corrected this in the factory 45 deg chassis by moving the fuel tank back towards the operator about 5 inches and installed a smaller fuel tank to keep the leg room. This allows just enough room for the air cleaner to tuck in behind the head and clear the hood line (see pics) Hope this info helps IH year code: H - 1938 I - 1939 J – 1940 K - 1941 L - 1942 M - 1943 N - 1944 O - 1945 P - 1946 Q - 1947 R - 1948 S - 1949 T - 1950 W - 1951 X - 1952 Y - 1953 Z - 1954 A - 1955 B - 1956 C - 1957 D - 1958 E - 1959 F - 1960 G - 1961 H - 1962
  7. TD 35 w/ 45 degree head

    There are 2 different mounting for the 45deg head. The type for a factory 45 degree system, and the style for a 10deg upgraded to 45deg. Post a picture of the fuel tank mounting. It will determine if yours is a factory 45 degree set up. I have both style brackets in my parts bins. 7288cdn's tractor is a 45 degree conversion fyi
  8. I'm sure you already know crawlers put quite a side load on rollers when turning, especially under load, so I would put the biggest snap ring or whatever you can come up with to keep that bugger centered. I would love to learn more about the hardening process you plan to do. Very much appreciate you sharing your knowledge Andrew
  9. Beautiful work, and a very nice shop! I was curious how will you handle the side thrust load? Do those bushings come in a hat style to take thrust? Thanks for sharing. I like your ideas... Andrew
  10. TD40

    Thank you Sorry but I was unable to produce any video clips of the first walk under it's own power. I thought I had my camera set on video but it was only on snapshot. So all I got was a few blurry pics. We will have it out again soon. It has some minor problems that need some attention before we take her out again. All in all it was a good run.
  11. TD40

    Well I couldn't believe I made it back to page 16 haha.... I have been AWOL for too long and I apologize. Shortly after my last post in Nov 2013 I received word from my Retirement Board that my retirement was approved and I was loosened from my chains to work again. I started putting the word out that I was willing to do some minor fabrication and repair jobs from home. After a couple weeks of nothing, the jobs came in like a tidal wave and have not let up. I am currently back logged with at least a full year of full restoration jobs. I am just finishing up my first restoration on a 2640 John Deere. I have been getting some weird stuff to fix and I like it! Just finished a 185 CFM air compressor pump that sheared the pump shaft (cast iron) I was able to weld it and save the guy several thousand $$$... Ok back to the TD40, it's been slow but it is running and driveable now. All that is left is to paint the hood and engine side skirts and install the hydraulic pump which is already painted and ready to install, also some decals that I have yet to decide on what to buy. Here is a quick vid of it's first run after installing the fuel tank... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V4wy5jdOTeg I will get some of it driving soon
  12. TD40

    AUSSIE: I used my TIG welder for this. A while back I tried silver soldering a sample piece with horrible results. I usually have pretty good luck with silver but the contamination in the steel did not cooperate with me at all. I felt stick would be too hot, and my MIG is equipped with .045 wire, which I think is too heavy for this application, plus if I did get it to work it would require a lot of grinding afterward. I have been suprised how much I ended up using TIG after getting one. I pretty much use it for everything with the exception of large projects because TIG would be much slower. I ended up coating it with the tank sealer from the outside for good measure after leak testing. It looks fine enough, I will leave it to show what lengths I had to go through to make it useable. That way my someday, my "Grandson" (Lord willing), will be able to see what I did. The more I thought about it the more I don't want to make it look like I'm trying to hide something. I will show pics of how it comes out later in the week. Thanks, Andy
  13. TD40

    Thanks Gilligan, you are an excellent Mentor! Andy
  14. TD40

    Wow thanks fellas! I know I'm hard on myself, I always have been. Old habits are hard to break sometimes. Thank you very much. The tank had 2 pin hole leaks. They appear to be from corrosion between the forward seam layers which I didn't separate. I used the tank sealer to plug them from the inside, and applied it to all of the seams on the outside of the tank. I will test it again after the sealer cures. More to come Andy
  15. TD40

    Last, my embarassing welds. Andy