AHINKLE

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About AHINKLE

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 08/29/1976

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    ahinkle65@aol.com
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Modesto California
  • Interests
    IH:4-TD40's, 3-TD35's, F20 wide front narrow tread, F20 standard, TD14 142, O12, O20, Utility 350, CAT: D8-13A, R5, Gas 40, two std 22's, wide 22, 30, 15, JD: AOS, BO, 50' A, 37'A skeleton steel, AC: M std, two M wide
  1. charlie r, sent you an email
  2. 7288cdn, I don't know if there was ever any of the very late 35 or 40's available with the single plunger pump conversion from the factory. But It wouldn't surprise me if it did. They made many changes to these tractors, especially the TD40, they all look basically the same but there were a great many changes made. That's too bad you don't have a serial plate. However, you can narrow it down to year model by decoding the casting date on the main case if it hasn't been changed at some point. Yours should be underneath the seat right on top of the man case, forward of the steering clutch fork shafts. Should look like: 6.30K which translates to June 30 1941. Below the text of this message I will put the lettering code list, hat tip to MDiesel for providing it to me awhile back. If you have problems finding it I can post a pic of the location. Not all 35's came with electric start, per the parts book its a special application. I have seen a couple 35's with no ring gear, one of them didn't even have a machined shoulder for the ring gear. But I'm certain they all have the main case, bell housing plate, and front tub manufactured to accommodate the starter, unlike the TD40. Are you sure that is a 45 deg head on yours? Not trying to contradict you but I hadn't noticed before only seeing the picture on my phone Now seeing it on the big screen it appears to be the original 10 deg head. I may be mistaken but if it is a 45 deg it should have a line of 8 freeze plugs on the injector side of the head (see pic). Also, per the factory manual the 45 deg conversion requires the hood cut out to accommodate the re-located air cleaner which has to be moved away from the block to provide clearance (see pic). They corrected this in the factory 45 deg chassis by moving the fuel tank back towards the operator about 5 inches and installed a smaller fuel tank to keep the leg room. This allows just enough room for the air cleaner to tuck in behind the head and clear the hood line (see pics) Hope this info helps IH year code: H - 1938 I - 1939 J – 1940 K - 1941 L - 1942 M - 1943 N - 1944 O - 1945 P - 1946 Q - 1947 R - 1948 S - 1949 T - 1950 W - 1951 X - 1952 Y - 1953 Z - 1954 A - 1955 B - 1956 C - 1957 D - 1958 E - 1959 F - 1960 G - 1961 H - 1962
  3. There are 2 different mounting for the 45deg head. The type for a factory 45 degree system, and the style for a 10deg upgraded to 45deg. Post a picture of the fuel tank mounting. It will determine if yours is a factory 45 degree set up. I have both style brackets in my parts bins. 7288cdn's tractor is a 45 degree conversion fyi
  4. I have fixed one by welding up the vanes then chucked it in a lathe and machined it to fit. It works!! Andrew
  5. I'm sure you already know crawlers put quite a side load on rollers when turning, especially under load, so I would put the biggest snap ring or whatever you can come up with to keep that bugger centered. I would love to learn more about the hardening process you plan to do. Very much appreciate you sharing your knowledge Andrew
  6. Beautiful work, and a very nice shop! I was curious how will you handle the side thrust load? Do those bushings come in a hat style to take thrust? Thanks for sharing. I like your ideas... Andrew
  7. Thank you Sorry but I was unable to produce any video clips of the first walk under it's own power. I thought I had my camera set on video but it was only on snapshot. So all I got was a few blurry pics. We will have it out again soon. It has some minor problems that need some attention before we take her out again. All in all it was a good run.
  8. Well I couldn't believe I made it back to page 16 haha.... I have been AWOL for too long and I apologize. Shortly after my last post in Nov 2013 I received word from my Retirement Board that my retirement was approved and I was loosened from my chains to work again. I started putting the word out that I was willing to do some minor fabrication and repair jobs from home. After a couple weeks of nothing, the jobs came in like a tidal wave and have not let up. I am currently back logged with at least a full year of full restoration jobs. I am just finishing up my first restoration on a 2640 John Deere. I have been getting some weird stuff to fix and I like it! Just finished a 185 CFM air compressor pump that sheared the pump shaft (cast iron) I was able to weld it and save the guy several thousand $$$... Ok back to the TD40, it's been slow but it is running and driveable now. All that is left is to paint the hood and engine side skirts and install the hydraulic pump which is already painted and ready to install, also some decals that I have yet to decide on what to buy. Here is a quick vid of it's first run after installing the fuel tank... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V4wy5jdOTeg I will get some of it driving soon
  9. AUSSIE: I used my TIG welder for this. A while back I tried silver soldering a sample piece with horrible results. I usually have pretty good luck with silver but the contamination in the steel did not cooperate with me at all. I felt stick would be too hot, and my MIG is equipped with .045 wire, which I think is too heavy for this application, plus if I did get it to work it would require a lot of grinding afterward. I have been suprised how much I ended up using TIG after getting one. I pretty much use it for everything with the exception of large projects because TIG would be much slower. I ended up coating it with the tank sealer from the outside for good measure after leak testing. It looks fine enough, I will leave it to show what lengths I had to go through to make it useable. That way my someday, my "Grandson" (Lord willing), will be able to see what I did. The more I thought about it the more I don't want to make it look like I'm trying to hide something. I will show pics of how it comes out later in the week. Thanks, Andy
  10. Thanks Gilligan, you are an excellent Mentor! Andy
  11. Wow thanks fellas! I know I'm hard on myself, I always have been. Old habits are hard to break sometimes. Thank you very much. The tank had 2 pin hole leaks. They appear to be from corrosion between the forward seam layers which I didn't separate. I used the tank sealer to plug them from the inside, and applied it to all of the seams on the outside of the tank. I will test it again after the sealer cures. More to come Andy
  12. Last, my embarassing welds. Andy
  13. More
  14. More pics
  15. Progress: I've been working on the fuel tank this week, it has not been easy to say the least. Which in part is why I saved it until last. I will try to explain some of my problems I encountered with this task. In order to get a good weld on the seams it was imperative that I remove all of the galvanizing. I thought I had it cleaned with a good glass bead blasting, acid soak, caustic soap wash with hot high pressure washer, grinding and buffing, then another acid soak followed with another hot high pressure wash. I thought it was all gone but the weld process proved I was wrong. It is finished but I am dissatisfied with the appearance of the weld. Before I installed the front and rear caps I hand brushed the inside of the tank with tank sealer, staying several inches back from the weld area. I wanted to be sure I covered all the interior because the baffles make it very difficult. This actually worked very well. I just had to make sure I did not get the tank too hot during weld process. Another problem was warping of the end caps. I had to do a substantial amount of welding to the front cap to fix damage caused by corrosion. The rear cap required welding on the gas tank which caused some unwanted twist I could not straighten. All I can say is that "it is what it is" and I don't know how I could have done it differently without making a new tank, which in retrospect, I think I should have done.