TD40

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About TD40

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  • Birthday 04/08/1958

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    Treasure Valley Idaho
  1. 2nd try
  2. Great video. Love seeing all those combines. Here is a video I took a few years ago of a combine train I passed along the highway. Drove up ahead a couple of miles and got out of the car and took the video as the train passed by. I was on the old highway between La Grande and Pendleton Oregon. Hopefully the video will show up as I am unable to figure out how to preview this reply before submitting it. Many forums allow you to preview your post before actually submitting it. If the video does not show up, will try again. <iframe width="854" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/w_UkLwS3oNo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
  3. I have had very good luck with the ones that I have used. The first ones I tried were Hyperikon brand but a little different from the ones listed above in that they are designed to have the ballast removed and the 120 volt fed directly to the lamps. They work very well and I was very impressed with how well they work. I have since bought more (can't recall the brand) and they work well and their light is nearly as good as the first Hyperikon brand ones that I had. The main difference between the two is that the first ones I bought, the plastic cover over the actual LEDs was frosted and the on the second ones, the cover was clear. I feel the look of the light off of the frosted ones was a little better. If I buy more in the future they will have the frosted covers. As far as lamps that use a ballast opposed to those that do not. In my opinion I recommend getting lamps that do not use the ballast, but are wired direct to the 120 volts. Beside the issue of some lamps not working with certain ballasts, I do not see why anyone would want to keep a ballast if they didn't need to. Just one more thing to go wrong. Although I have not measured it (as I don't have any LED lamps that require a ballast) I feel that it is likely that a light with LED lamps that utilize the old ballast would use more power than one that did not use the ballast. There has to be some loss in the ballast as they usually get quite warm when in use and all that heat is simply power waste. Besides in many cases, the existing ballast is old and near the end of its like anyway. Makes more sense to simply remove it from the system. IMO is is not much of a job to remove the ballast from the system and rewire the fixture to accept lamps that don't utilize the ballast. However, I use to work as an electrician (now retired) so what seems easy for me concerning electrical may seem a little more difficult for others. I didn't actually remove the ballast, but just clipped the wires to it and left it in place. If the fixture was not already mounted, I would physically remove it to get the weight down. I do have one caution to consider: The two brands of LED lamps that I have are wired in a different manner. It is important to make a note on the fixture of what lamp it is wired for and/or how it is wired as down the road a future lamp may need to wired in a different manner. If a person was going to do a large shop or farm, it may be advisable to find a LED lamp that you like at a good price and buy all the same so the wiring of the fixture will be consistent. The one exception I have found to it being easy to remove the ballast from the system is a fairly new (2 -4 years old) fixture that had a cord built in to the fixture. It did not have a traditional ballast, but was built in to one end of the fixture. I had to tear the whole thing apart and then rebuild it to work with my lamps. Not really that difficult for me, but more than a 2 - 3 minute job. Glad I don't have more of them. I do agree on an above comment on color temp as I like a color temp of around 4000 as it is close to the old "cool white." I bought my first lamps from Amazon and felt they were a good deal at the time. That was well over a year ago and there are a lot more of them on the market and the price has come down as well. The last ones I bought (this summer) were just under $7 a tube delivered. Search the internet as there are a lot to choose from. I wish the inexpensive ones from Home Depot were the style that don't utilize a ballast as their price is good and I can get them local. However, I don't want to mess with keeping the ballast.
  4. Currently have 3 bikes for three types of riding. All were bought new. 06 KTM 525 EXC for dirt/off road, 07 BMW 650 X-Challenge for dual sport and 09 Suzuki 650 V Strom for road riding. Wife has 06 KTM 450 EXC, 08 Suzuki DR 400 and 09 Suzuki 650 V Strom
  5. Buy an 11 thousand dollar SnapOn tool box
  6. Update: The new injector tube arrived. Checked the other injector tube clamps. Found all of them loose. #3 was very loose. All tight now. Got new tube installed without issue. Old tube. You can see where I smashed it closed. Fitting from injector end. You can see how thick the tube wall is and how small the ID of the tube is. Took truck out for a test drive and no leaks. Got test cap ordered from Geno's Garage. Will keep in truck in case I ever break another injector tube. I figure just removing the rail end of the tube and installing the cap will be easier than trying to change out the entire tube while in the middle of the road if I ever I ever break one again. Used my cheap scan tool to reset/clear the check engine light.
  7. The early 2007's were available with the 5.9. The actual engines were built in late 2006 as I believe the new emission regs applied to engines built beginning in 2007. The engine in mine was built in December 2006 according to the sticker on it. Had a 2004.5 that I loved. It was the second Dodge diesel with the 5.9 that we had owned. I friend went and bought a 2007 with a 5.9 and knew it was going to be one of the last of the 5.9's. He also knew that I loved my 5.9's and when he bought his there was one on the lot that was very similar to the one I already had. 3500 single rear axle, 4 door, long bed, 6 speed and the color was the same as our current one. He told me about it and said if I wanted a new pickup in the next year or two to think about getting that one as the 5.9 would no longer be available. Wife and I went by to look, but didn't have our truck with us. The new one was very similar to the one we had but brand new. Got to talking to the dealer about trading ours in and he gave me an estimated price he would give us subject to actual inspection. Was almost to good to pass on so the next day had the wife drive the truck up to the dealer so they could look at it. After looking at our truck, the dealer said that due to the inspection he would have the adjust the price he would offer. He added $1000 to the price he would give us for our old truck. I knew the price on the new one was fair as the price shown online for the same truck at the big wholesaler out of northern Idaho (Dave Smith or something like that) was only $200 less than the price they had at the Pendleton OR dealer (then local to me) I was dealing with. Bought the new truck later that day and have not regretted it. Been a great truck even with the little issue I had a few days ago. Don't put as many miles on the truck as I did several years ago so this one may last several more years. Drove my brother in laws new Dodge diesel a few weeks ago. Other than the new style larger cab (much more room in back seat) and back up camera it has nothing on my nearly 10 year old Dodge. Not really in a hurry to trade my current one off.
  8. Yes, the problem is in the middle of the picture. The blue clamping blocks tend to get loose and allow the tube to vibrate until it destroys itself. From what I read, it is usually the #4 tube, but sometimes the other ones get loose. My advice would be to check all of them and keep them tight. When looking at the tubes and trying to count to see which tube is which, remember that rail fitting for #1 points towards the front of the engine, numbers 2 through 5 point straight up and #6 points towards the back of the engine. There is just enough stuff in the way and is just high enough up in the air that it can be a little difficult to see and count the injectors starting with #1 at the front. Here is a picture of mine taken just after I got home. You can see the rial fitting for the broke tube to the left of the orange sticker. It is the fitting with the nick in it. To the left of that is the loose blue clamping block. It is the block that needs to be checked and kept tight, along with the other nearby blue clamping blocks. Further to the left you can see the #4 injector fitting with the short section of tube sticking out. Near the lower right of the picture you can see the end of the #4 tube where I kinked it and smashed the end of it to seal it off enough to drive home. The end of the tube is above the top of the fuel filter housing. Hope that helps at least one person out there avoid the trouble I had. Other than this one incident (which didn't turn out as bad as it could have) the engine have been great and other than routine changing of oil and the three filters (oil, fuel and air) has been trouble free. redturbo: you mentioned a "test fuel cap." by that I assume you mean a cap to install on the rail in place of a tube. I would love to get one to keep in the truck in case I have a future problem. Changing an entire tube on the road could be a little difficult as access to the injector fitting can be tight, but access to the rail fittings (at least #2 through #5) is very easy and so with a cap you could be on your way again very quickly if you had the cap. My plan was to take the old tube and cut off the excess tube near the rail fitting and then weld the end shut to make my own cap but would buy a regular cap if I knew where to buy one. Took this picture when I got safely home. After the morning I had, was very glad to be able to take the picture.
  9. I have seen other threads concerning pickups so figure this one is okay. Also, I am not trying to start a bash on Dodge/Cummins but am only trying to warn others of a recent problem I had with my Dodge that turned out to be a fairly common problem. I am sure a lot of you are already aware of the issue, but until a few days ago, I was not and if I can help even one person out there I feel this thread is worth it. I have a 2007 Dodge 3500 4 door pickup with the Cummins 5.9. It has under 70k miles. My wife and I were driving home from our annual Christmas break trip to Arizona. (she works at a local primary school) We were pulling a car trailer that had our Suzuki Sidekick 4X4 on it that we had used to explore around the desert with on our trip. It was before sunrise on the 2nd of January and were were approaching Jackpot NV near the Idaho/Nevada boarder (middle of no where.) The outside temp was 7 below according to the trucks temp gauge. The driving tracks on the road were basically bare but there was lots of packed snow and ice along the edges of the road and in some places in the center of the driving lanes. The first indication of a problem was the check engine light came on but the truck continued to appear to run okay. A few miles later while approaching Jackpot, the truck died just like you had shut if off. I coasted to the edge of the road the best I could but was still blocking much of the north bound side of the highway. The truck would not restart and I could smell diesel. Got out for a quick look and could see lots of diesel under the front of the truck. I had to get the truck out of the road so we unloaded the little Sidekick as quickly as possible and hooked it to the front of the truck with a tow strap. Using low range and first gear in the sidekick, my wife was able to pull the truck and trailer into the town and into a safe parking place along the highway. After taking a break in a nearby casino to warm up and let the sun rise I begin to look for the source of the fuel leak. I was soon able to figure out that the source as the tube that runs between the common rail and the #4 injector. There appeared to be a crack in the tube very near the fitting on the injector. I really wanted to get everything home that day so I removed the tube from the common rail as that fitting was very easy to reach and get loose with an adjustable wrench. I didn't have to undo the harder to get to injector fitting as the tube broke off without effort. My plan was to crimp off the end of the tube and drive home on 5 cylinders. I figured that there was fairly high pressure on the tube but didn't at the time realize how high the pressure was. I could see the tube was very thick walled and would not crimp over with the basic tools I had. I ended up using part of the trailer hitch as an anvil and hammering the end of the tube shut. Put the modified tube back on the common rail fitting and gave it a try. The engine started right up and there was only a small drip out of the end of the tube. The engine ran a little rough, but not as bad as i thought it might. My next fear was that the computer would know that one cylinder was not firing and either put me into a limp mode or worse, shut the engine down and not allow it to run. With that concern in mind I had my wife follow me in the Sidekick rather than loading it back on the trailer in case the truck died in the middle of the road again and I needed a two to get to a safe parking place. I drove to the next real town (Twin Falls ID) with her following. The truck actually ran pretty well. At Twin Falls I stopped in a large parking lot and found the tube was leaking fuel at a rate more than I wanted to let it continue. There was a factory bend in the tube near the broken off end and I hammered that bend down in an attempt to kink the tube. It appeared to work so we loaded the sidekick on the trailer and got on the nearby freeway for the couple hundred mile trip for home. About 40 miles down the road I could tell the tube was leaking a lot again from the smell and white smoke trail I was leaving. Pulled over at the next exit and really went to town on the tube with the hammer. This time I smashed it enough to hold for the rest of the trip. Got home without further incident. Did some research online and found that the #4 injector tube breaking/leaking is a fairly common issue with this generation of 5.9 engine. It appears that the clamp that hold the tube between the two fittings and keeps it from vibrating is know to become loose and allow the tube to slowly destroy itself. If caught early and kept tight then the tube failure is normally prevented. There are a few forums that discuss the problem. One of them is: http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-powertrain/189520-guys-check-your-4th-injector-line-sticky.html The first I ever heard about it was after my problem. If you have a 3rd generation 5.9 (approximately 2003 to 2007) and you have not yet had a #4 injector tube failure, I suggest you look into this further. There is an updated replacement tube available for about $30 from cummins and it is fairly easy to install so at least it will be cheap and easy to fix. I ordered my tube online as there is not a cummins shop nearby my home. I also found out the pressure in the tube can be as high as 26,000 pounds (yes that is thousands) so I can see why I had such a difficult time getting the tube to quit leaking. Also learned that a cummins will run okay on 5 if needed.
  10. I give my 2 cents on this subject from the other side. I don't have a lot of experience paying contractors as I do most of my own work. However, last year I hired a local firm to install a natural gas line to where I planned to install a gas stove to replace a wood stove. The work was done in a workmanship and timely manner. When the work was completed I asked about an invoice. The workers told me I would receive something in the mail. A couple of days later the local inspector signed off on the work. The next day I made a special trip into town to the office of the firm that did the work. I asked for the invoice (which closely matched the estimate) and wrote out a check for the entire cost. Received a receipt and that was the last of that deal. The office lady that took the check seemed a little surprised that I came in to just pay my bill before even receiving a statement in the mail. Work was done in a timely manner and I felt they should receive payment in a timely manner. Would not seem right doing it any other way. Concerning credit cards: I normally use them whenever possible to pay for things since I get cash back rewards and I pay the balance in full every month so I never pay fees or interest. The one exception is when dealing with small shops as I know then have to pay a fee to accept the card and don't feel right about making them pay the fee so pay in cash or check so they can actually receive the full amount they are due.
  11. We always pulled a 5 bottom plow with our old TD-40. Could usually pull in 4th gear unless plowing alfalfa when you could only use 3rd at the best and sometimes 2nd. Didn't plow alfalfa very often.
  12. The Massy 90 could cut grain a lot faster than the Massy 27 could. During that last harvest, I also had a chance to operate the Massy 27. Although I grew up on the Massy 90, I had never operated the Massy 27 until that year. I was surprised how much slower I had to go in the heavy grain with the 27 compared to the 90. Both machines had the same size header (14 feet) but the 90 was larger all the way through and had one more straw walker than the 27 did. Just posting the pictures got me to remembering what it was like to run those old machines. Just to grease it every morning took several grease guns worth of grease. One of my first jobs as a boy was to help grease it and pump fuel into it. When I was old enough to reach the clutch peddle on the trucks, it was my job to drive the truck over to the combine when the grain tank was full. My older brother would drive the trucks to elevator while I loaded the other truck while he was gone. That way, we kept the combine running. As I got older, grandpa taught me how to adjust the combine to keep it operating at its best. When I was older and operating the combine, at least once or twice a day, grandpa would go behind you and check the ground for grain kernels. He had better not find too many or you would be stopping and making more adjustments. The old Massy was not the fastest combine (by later standards) but adjusted correctly, it could really cut grain with very little loss. Grandpa always said the grain you leave on the ground could make the difference between making or losing money that season. I know there were a few years when things were tight money wise and and am sure he was right. As Loadstar pointed out, the sounds of the old Massy was a sound you never forget. We did occasionally get a small fire going on the engine. Had to pay attention and if something smelled like something burning, it was. We kept a 5 gallon sprayer with just water in it to put out any fire. Speaking of Loadstars, in 1964, we bought a new Loadstar 1600 for a grain truck. It was our first truck with its own hoist. It had a 16 foot bed and could hold much more grain than it could legally carry. One one of our fields, we had to take the State Hiway and pass a State scale to get to the elevator so we had to not load it up all the way. Back in 1964, the new Loadstar was much larger than most of the trucks in use then. It was so large, that it would barely fit on the scale at the old elevator. It was a good thing the truck had its own hoist as if we would of used the elevator hoist that lifted the front tires, the grain coming out of the back would of missed the grain grate. As it was, we had to weigh, then pull forward as far as possible. We had a mark where to stop. We then used the trucks hoist and it you stopped just right at the mark, the front of the bed would barely miss the top of the exit door frame. As it was, you had to dump slow as the grain will still dumping as the very back of the grain grate. Also, you could not dump the whole truck at once as the pit would not hold the whole truck at once. Within a couple of years, trucks of that size were common and many were larger. The grain elevators had to update their dumps to keep up with the times. Anyway, the first year we had the Loadstar, we almost lost it to a fire. The truck had a V8 engine and the exhaust pipes from each side came together under the truck in a Y shape. Stubble would hang up in the Y. We didn't realize it was a problem at first and one day my brother had just returned from town and dumping a load of grain. The exhaust pipe was hot from the drive back from town. When he parked, the built up straw caught on fire. He was lucky to get the fire put out. Good thing the truck we new and did not have a build up of grease on the engine. After that, each time we moved the truck in the field, we (mostly me as I was the filed jockey then as I was not yet old enough to get a license) had to crawl under the truck and remove any straw that had got caught on the exhaust pipe Y. The Loadstar was a good truck. It had a 4 speed with a 2 speed rear end. Don't remember the exact engine size (390 something I believe), but it had plenty of power. It also had a radio. None of the other equipment had a radio.
  13. I am very new to this forum, but already feel welcome. I just found this particular thread yesterday, but have already been through many of the 266 pages. I really enjoy all of the pictures and the stories that go with them. Hopefully you will allow a newbee to add a little to this great story you have going. I don't have hardly any pictures of my days working on the family farm. I hardly took any pictures before the days of digital pictures and what few I did take, I can't find them now. I knew I had a couple of the last harvests ever done with our old equipment. I found them tonight and just scanned them in. By this time, my parents/grandparents farm ground was leased out to my grandpa's brother and his two sons. Part of the deal was that they could rent some of our equipment as needed. My grandpa's other brother and his son were still farming their place. When the grain harvest came on, everyone in the family worked together to get it done, as often the weather did not provide much of a window for getting the grain cut. This year was no exception. We had lots of rain in early August and by the time the rain stopped, we had a lot of grain that needed to be cut and right now. By this time, I was working nights at the sawmill, but that didn't matter this year. We all pitched in this year to get the harvest done. For this years harvest, we had two combines. Our Massy Harris model 90 Special that was kept cutting my my grandpa and myself and my great uncles Massy Harris model 27 which was a few years older than our model 90. This first pictures is of me running the model 90 The second picture is of my grandpa's two brothers, D and Lynn, myself and Lynn's oldest son. Not sure where grandpa was, but most likely he was cutting grain. (didn't want to waste daylight when it time to cut grain) I am the only one from the above picture that is still alive. Within a year after this picture was taken, both of my Great Uncles were gone. (they passed away within two weeks of each other) Cancer caught up with the other person shown within a few years. I can't remember for sure who took all of the pictures of that harvest (it was one of the wives, but I am not sure which one), but I know several were taken as I later saw them. I got copies of the two I have because I was in them. I wish I had the rest of them now, especially the ones showing my grandpa. We did manage to get all of the grain cut during our window of good weather. As I said, it was the last year the old Massy Harris 90 was ever used to cut grain. It was parked in the machine shed where it sat until mom sold the farm years later. By todays standards, it was not much, but it sure did cut grain nicely. I know my pictures and stories may not compare to the the stories and pictues of Old Binder Guy, but I hope you enjoy seeing them anyway. Thank you OBG and all who have made this thread the great story it is.