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About thebunns

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 05/25/1939

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Oroville, WA
  • Interests
    Keeping the weeds down on my 100 acres of wildlife habitat, feeding & watering game, and taking pictures.

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  1. Different looking Farmall

    You must have had them all---I never saw one growing up in the '40s & '50s around Hartwick.
  2. Different looking Farmall

    Thanks, guys! You prompted me to google it:,
  3. Different looking Farmall

    That's a shot from my front deck in the Washington State Okanogan highlands on the Canadian border. It's a portion of the 270 deg. view we have from here. This one shows Mt. Baldy in British Columbia.
  4. Different looking Farmall

    That's about what I figured. I'd never seen an extra seat but it wouldn't be a big deal to add one. It seems reasonable to assume that the decal (or hood) was replaced rather than the front end.
  5. Different looking Farmall

    I just saw a "Cultivision A" Farmall with a narrow front end and an extra seat to the left of the normal seat. My '39 "Cultivision A" came with a wide front end and one seat. My neighbor had an identical tractor except the front end was narrow. It was "B" model. Can someone tell me what I saw?
  6. Engine Stuck

    Your price scheme doesn't apply in this case---the price is set, dead or alive! The seller is supposed to get a mechanic to work on it but waiting for him to accomplish that is painful. Vic
  7. Engine Stuck

    Are you talking about anti-freeze 50/50 or the 50/50 ATF and Acetone mix mentioned above? If the latter, where does the water come from? The tractor has been sitting for 12 years, but so was the one I now have that I started up on diesel after sitting 12 years & drove it down a mountain. The problem is that it's not mine, 175 miles away & I'm not at liberty to offer much help. I'm hanging in there because a new running gear was put in it before it got parked and mine could use it. For one thing, I have to use shims to tighten the tracks as both adjustment screws are totally stripped. Vic
  8. Engine Stuck

    That sounds like good advice if the engine was torn down. I think that's the only way you could tell which piston(s) was stuck. If that was the case, it seems like a block of wood & a maul might do it. Step one for me is to soak the cylinders in some kind of solution & then maybe tow the tractor to see if anything moves. Right now I'm waiting to see what the owner is willing to do. Vic
  9. td14a hyd controls

    I have one that was on my TD-14. Its problem was that if the blade is off the ground & I wanted to raise it, it would first drop an inch or two before going up. If you think you could use it or its parts, I'll send it to you. Vic Bunn Oroville, WA
  10. Engine Stuck

    I'm told to use ATF on a froze up engine because of its detergent properties. I know everyone has their preferences so let's not go there. If I give each cylinder 3/4 squirts from an oil can, will it be necessary to replace the oil if I get it running?
  11. I'm looking at TD-14A serial number TDF34659. There are differences between that one & my -14A serial number TDF36246 manufactured in the same year. I'm told by my "main mechanic" that farm tractors were built with different gear ratios or rear end ratios, giving higher speeds/gear. Is there any way to find out if this is correct, other than putting the two tractors side by side, picking a gear & see what happens? He was guessing that the farm tractor might be geared too high for plowing snow, which is my main reason for having the tractor.
  12. Starter valve shaft(s) stick

    Thanks for that input. The intake is removed. I quit trying to disassemble the butterfly setup when I found that if I apply any more pressure to remove the valve screws, I would probably break them off. I have been shooting every applicable spot with WD-40 penetrating oil every time I walk by the thing. I bought new springs & dust seals but won't use them. The present springs look better than the new ones. If anyone needs these items, let me know! The whole mechanism feels pretty good now so I'll put it back together in a couple of days. I now know where I can at least aim penetrating oil with the intake installed on the motor. Some of it should get where it's supposed to go. Vic
  13. Starter valve shaft(s) stick

    I got it! Thank You. I suspect that those holes were there all along. Today I saw them. Now, back to the reason I pulled the intake---to free up the butterfly valve shafts. I guess the visible portions of the shafts will have to be cleaned back to their original diameters to get them to slide out of the unit. I've got a sand blaster---is that too harsh? I used it on every part, nut, cotter pin, etc. of the "A" model Farmall I restored. (It and I were both born in '39.) Any suggestions to help make that job a little easier? Vic
  14. Starter valve shaft(s) stick

    You lost me a bit---you are using terms that are not in the manual. I'm guessing that the gas valves you are talking about are the starting valves that lower the compression in the cylinders for starting the engine on gas. And I'll guess that the flipper you are talking about are the two butterfly valves in the intake. Going on that assumption, why do I have to push on the yoke, opening the butterfly valves a bit to start the engine on gas? That's not sealing off all air leaks. I still want to know how the air/gas mixture gets to the cylinders with the butterfly valves totally sealing off everything from the cylinders. I just don't see that answer in these replies.
  15. Starter valve shaft(s) stick

    Thanks for the summary of how the engine works. I've read that many times in learning how it operates. That tractor was my first diesel. It does not answer my question---"Assuming that the valves are completely closed in the gas position, how does the gas/air mixture get from the carburetor to the cylinders? Those valves are essentially right next to the cylinders."