Cotter Pin

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  1. hydraulic system on 340

    The smallest bit I have is 1/32nd. That seems about right. Cleaned out the junk but didn't appear to expand the opening much.
  2. hydraulic system on 340

    Thanks, all. Once I got it opened up again, Pete's instructions were more clear. The orifice backed right out. The screen was collapsed and full of goop. The orifice itself was plugged. I was able to take the retaining pin out to remove the ball valve in there, and then drill the opening out. It's a very small hole, but was easy to drill since most of what was being removed was the clog, not metal. The parts catalog makes that piece look like a needle valve instead of a check valve with a filter sock attached. Here are a couple of photos so the next guy has more to work from. Getting the mangled screen out of the housing was tricky. It was broken off of the orifice. I couldn't get ahold of it with anything. In the end, I disconnected the coil and cranked the starter motor a couple of times, and the hydraulic pressure pushed it right out. But be sure to disconnect the coil so you aren't at risk of the engine starting and pushing full pressure in your face. Thanks for the help. It made a huge difference.
  3. hydraulic system on 340

    Pete, thanks for the information. I had the function of the valve more or less figured out, but couldn't tell where the supply for the fluid to push the piston to open it was supposed to come from. I'll try cleaning out the orifice (part #10 on the parts diagram) and see if that will get things flowing again. I'm a little nervous about sticking a very small drill bit in a deep hole like that without good access to retrieve it if it breaks off. But there is no flow there now, so it is blocked and needs to be cleaned out. Thanks for the help.
  4. hydraulic system on 340

    I just bought a Farmall 340 with the engine driven hydraulic pump at the timing gear. The hitch lifts strongly--it will lift the tractor off the ground. But when the control is in the neutral position, so the cylinder is not active, the pump is pumping full pressure against a closed system. There doesn't seem to be a working dump valve that is putting the fluid back into the sump/transmission. The pump and tubing get very hot and finally the engine will stall out. I've seen the question raised on other panels, but while the question is common, there are no answers. New fluid and filter didn't solve it. I've torn part way into the regulator valve and it looked clean and the o-rings seemed tight. There's a very powerful spring in the "safety valve" that seems solid. I can't pull the safety valve piston at the front of that because there's no way to get a hold of it. I wasn't able to get the regulator valve completely apart, either. The piston comes out, and the o-ring seems to be tight. There's a ball bearing valve behind that, which the piston apparently is supposed to activate. It moves freely, though sometimes makes a snapping noise when I push the piston into it. I can't get the valve seat out. All the orifices in the cover plate are open and clean. Am I even in the right area? Any suggestions on what the problem is, and what tool I need to get the regulator valve seat out? It looks like I need a screwdriver about an inch wide to hit the slots cut into each side of the seat. I know the pump pressure is the problem. When the cylinder is in motion, the engine rpm drops. When the cylinder is not in motion, the engine is laboring against the pump pressure. It ought to be the reverse of that, with the engine working harder when it is lifting the hitch. Thanks! I've learned a lot from other posts on my other equipment. My 1943 M is so much simpler.