neil33

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About neil33

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  1. So I decided to do a full rebuild of my B275 engine and after pulling the first 2 cylinder sleeves l have found hairline cracks at the thinnest point between cylinders 1-2, 2-3 and 3-4 (see photos). I have little experience with these engines and rebuilding in general so I'm looking for advice from those with more experience than me in this field. Maybe this is normal on the BD144 engine? I'm thinking that once the new sleeves are in place and the head gasket is in place, these cracks will make little difference but I could be very wrong. If I am wrong (its not unusual!) are there any other options or is the block scrap?
  2. Well a bit of an update....the good news is that the cotter pin method does work well, but the bad news is that all of the main bearing journals have corrosion marks on them so It looks like I now have a much bigger job in dismantling the entire engine to change the crank (based on the quotes I have had, its cheaper to replace than regrind), and on oleman's advice, I'll change the camshaft bearings too.
  3. Great advise guys....Thank you! I will have a crack at this at the weekend, I presume the new shells will roll in quite easily if all the caps are loosened, or maybe I can use the same cotter pin method to roll them on. . Will also get some plastigague on order once I find the correct size. I'll let you know how it goes.......
  4. So I have another question for you guys...... Is it possible to change the main bearing shells without removing the crank from the engine? My thinking is that if I remove all bearing caps I might be able to drop the crank enough to push the upper shells out and push the new ones in. Pics below of one of the main bearings and big end bearings, which appear to be less worn. My investigation in the low oil pressure on my restoration led me to drop the sump, only to find the oil pump gauze pretty well blocked with sludge. After changing the oil pump with a used (but known good) pump there is a small improvement in oil pressure but I feel the next step is the change the main and big end bearings but at this stage don't really want to remove the crank to have it reground. Advice appreciated.....
  5. BD144- Where do these "O" rings go?

    I think you are absolutely correct...they are a square section and fit the gasket holes perfectly. Maybe I should have asked this question before fitting the head!...hopefully this will fix the water in the sump issue although with the water in one of the head bolt holes, I'm not that sure.
  6. So Where do these 2 "O" rings go?......in centre of B275 head gasket kit photo. A bit of history...I purchased a part restored 275 some time ago and finally have it running after many years but have some issues, possibly connected to the above "O" rings. The engine is running, but with low oil pressure and I also found considerable water in the sump when changing the oil today. The head has been off several times and the previous owner had it skimmed and new valves fitted but other than that I'm not sure what else has been done. Another issue I noted after I refitted the head with new gasket was a small water leak from around one of the head bolds (outside the rocker cover). So..... When I bought the head gasket kit, I could not see where these two "O" rings would go (maybe the old ones were not there). I can also not find any reference to these in the parts catalogue. Any advice appreciated.....
  7. B275 Glow plugs inop

    Well it looks like you hit the nail on the head Owen...in fact,2, and 1 are also grounded out. They are all new plugs and look slightly different to the original old plugs so I need to investigate further. Certainly when they are removed there is no continuity between the element end the outer body, so I guess the element is touching the Pre combustion chamber and grounding to earth.
  8. B275 Glow plugs inop

    Owen, that's a very good point!..... The head and pre combustion chambers have been out so you may have a point. I will check in the morning!
  9. B275 Glow plugs inop

    Thanks Oleman for you advice, Everything is indeed connected in series and as per the wiring diagram (Im pretty sure).. Just seem odd that plug 4 (the first to get the current) has failed twice now...immediatly after activating the glow plug switch. My feeling is that it might be the glow plug indicator.....I dont think it should be white hot.....would it make a difference if the glow plug indicator was removed from the dash and not earthed at the time of plug 4 failure?
  10. B275 Glow plugs inop

    ,,,,Am I correct in thinking that the the current passing through the glow plug indicator should be reducing the voltage?
  11. B275 Glow plugs inop

    So..... im finally putting the dash back together on my restoration (taken over from someone else) and when when I activate the glow plug system it burns out the first glow plug (plug 4). At this point circuit continuity only goes as far a the failed plug. After replacing the plug I have check the continuity of the circuit, all the way from the glow plug switch to the last plug (plug1) and all is good there. I have 12 volts before the switch and after, when activated, and 12 volts to the glow plug indicator. The glow plug indicator seems to heat up VERY quickly (almost white hot) for a few seconds, then fades (Presumably when plug 4 burns out and breaks the circuit). All 4 plugs connected in series. From memory, I think these plugs are rated at something like 2 volts and I suspect the first plug is getting the full 12 volts and thats why its burning out. Can someone elaborate on the 2 volt/ 12 volt thing? what sort of voltage should I be seeing at each plug?
  12. Poor compression/ Pre combustion chambers

    Thanks for the tips Guys...... Think I will remove the head again, prior to initial start up, just to check valves, injector seals etc. I had reused the head gasket as it was previously new and engine had not run but think I will change it as a precaution.
  13. Hello All, I'm kind of new to the vintage tractor thing and have just take over a part restoration of a B275 that had already had some work to the cylinder head (skimmed and valves re ground) but on turning the engine over by hand it seemed to be loosing compression past 2 of the pre combustion chambers (hissing) so I figured that the upper and lower injector seals needed changing. As the pre combustion chambers could not be removed externally. I had to remove the head to push them out form the inside (they were held in pretty tight with some sort of sealant around the sides). anyway...once removed (all 4 of them) the were cleaned up and replaced with new seals but I saw no reason to use extra sealant. Which brings me to my problem..... I now seem to have poor compression (turning engine by hand) on all 4 cylinders, but no apparent hissing past the pre chambers So what went wrong? should I have used sealant around the Pre chambers, as I had found it? or if the valves had been put back in different positions during when I re assembled the head, could that be the cause? ...although they seemed air tight. Any other possible issues? Any advice for a newbie very welcome......