stronger800

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About stronger800

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  1. 1456 with detroit

    I'm not advocating for what's already been done, but maybe the guy needed a motor, or rather a running Tractor, and that's all that he had to work with. Who is the guy here who posted recently about him or his father having been given a $10-15k estimate to rebuild their 414 fifteen or 20 years ago? So they put in the overheating 436 for 5k or something? Both numbers.....mind boggling.... For that era, imo.
  2. 1456 with detroit

    I bet that could be cleaned up ( maybe completely replace frame rails, extend the grill up ward a tad, to raise the hoods, not sure, but it surely could be done somehow) and it would look cool.
  3. 18.4-38's vs 20.8-38's

    You get a lot of Road speed out of 20.8's. I have used them mainly for that reason, and to gain draw bar height when pulling a manure spreader through snow. Other than that, I'd never buy a set. 18.4 radials, are great. 20.8 radials, like you are seeing, are Expensive. The wider rims are expensive, and the larger front tires you should have to equal out the package, those cost more too. As do the tubes. They look cool though. I've noticed no difference in traction when running duals, 18.4 -20.8. We do the same tillage jobs with one of each. Tire condition and weight seems to have more to do with it. Imo.
  4. 56 series diamond cab vs 66 series cabs

    806, it would go right on. They are same hood style as 826/856 minus a different shifting lever design
  5. 1466 clutch boost remove and replace

    If you do have a cab and are more comfortable with a bit of extra room, you can just remove the two front cab Bolts and put a floor jack and block of wood under the opposite side of the tractor and it will go up about 3" without loosening rear cab mount bolts at all. Given, it stresses the rear rubbers a bit, and loosening the Bolts would be best. i would remove the left side step too.
  6. 966

    If it runs and moves, it's worth more than that even for parts I'd say
  7. 1066 wedge lock, bolt size?

    I understand the consequences of having to hammer the wedges loose, if it ever comes to it. It's what I had to do this time, when the rusty old ( new to me) factory bolt snapped. On my own machines, they've all be moved a time or two and typically go freely. The factory nut comes with just two or three small tac welds, I was going to do the same if need be
  8. 1066 wedge lock, bolt size?

    The big bolt that draws the wedges in. Snapped one during wheel removal. Looks to be 7/8" fine thread to me. If dealer does not have a wedge assembly in stock, I may try Fastenall. A grade eight with a nut welded in the center, looks like it would work to me. Anybody know if the correct Bolt for the wedge assembly is available separately? Thanks
  9. 706 problem

    Ahead of your clutch pedal, half way up the side of the trans, is the Multiple Control Valve. Valve looking assembly, with lots of bolts, and lines going to it. There is a bleeder plug that faces toward the rear of the tractor. A 5/8" open end wrench or a 5/8 thin walled 3/8 drive socket fits it best. It's the only plug looking plug that points back, and is 5/8". remove this plug. And then climb on and start the tractor. Air/oil will Shoot out of there straight back and all over your rear axle. If you just see clean oil.... Then I just wasted your time and got your axle all dirty, but if you see and hear air/oil/air, then it might be your problem. As soon as you see the oil fly in a steady stream of mostly oil and not mostly air, Shut Tractor off quickly (it only takes maybe five seconds) and then put the plug back in. We have an 806 that needs this procedure about once a year, and a 1466 that needs it about once every five years. No idea why. They seem good otherwise.
  10. 986 coolant leak

    Flipping them over, I suppose is a good idea. I've replaced several, but I bet they cost a lot more than they use to. A few good strips of weather stripping stuck to the bottom of whatever radiator you decide to,put back in, wouldn't hurt.
  11. 986 coolant leak

    You'd have to have a shop look at it. One local shop here won't touch them, but the other guy does, so I've been told.
  12. MCV PUMPS

    I grew up changing 4-5 of those filters a year, for over 25 years (still do) knock on wood, I've never had a problem with either style cover leaking.
  13. 706 D310 frame rail length

    Oh good....because I forgot to look. Although we had an 826 for 25 years, running right beside our 8o6, and I would have said they were/are the same length.
  14. Looking for Ether Kit for 806

    Any i.h. salvage yard. Off of about any tractor, 06-66 series and likely later models too. Have you seen them? They are very simple.
  15. 756 Build-Out

    Cummins swap would be 5k, easily, in reality. If not 6k. I priced it out a few times over the last few years. And that's assssuming you can even find a good running cummins for under $2500. Around here, a junked out dodge with 300k on it, still brings 5k, because guys want the motor. I'd be searching for one of those fairly drop in combine diesels as he said earlier.