Brandon966

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About Brandon966

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  • Birthday 09/12/1987

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  • Location
    Youngsville, NC
  1. So I did the test, and the hitch went down with the isolator closed. In fact I was spreading fert yesterday with my spreader and tried to keep it up with the isolator valve and doing so would only cause the system to pressurize. How hard is that cylinder to rebuild? Also, my pto noise from the transmission area still exists, some days it does it some it won't. Any troubleshooting for this?
  2. I wanted to change the oil in my 444, now I'm worried I had the oil filter on upside down the whole time. Does it sit in the base like in the picture, or does it go the other way? The way it sits is how it is now, but it does not sit all the way down in the base. Which is it?
  3. Nice to see another CSF member on here!
  4. Great, good to know. Now is the problem of finding the 1 1/8" hose lol.
  5. The good ol 444 I've been working on. Saw the hydraulic fluid was a little low per the manual the other day (manual states fluid level should be at the bottom of the plug channel on the top of the housing). Lift and hydraulics worked fine. Added 1 gal Hy-Tran equivalent fluid yesterday, ran it for an hour or so, fed a round bale to the horses, had a mile trip up the road, all was fine. Go out today, find the lift and power steering not operational. I take the plug off the back to check the level, and fluid poured out. Not milky fluid, but not perfectly clean. Cranked the tractor back up, tried to operate the hydraulics and still nothing. Take out the suction and orifice filter and drain the rest of the fluid. I notice when I drain the fluid gold flakes coming out with it. Orifice filter is clean, but the suction filter was pretty cruddy. I feel up in the suction filter hole, and find a ton of gunk mixed with shavings. I'd say enough gunk and shavings in that cavity to cup in your hand. Cleaned the filters, and plan to fill back with oil tomorrow and try it. What bothers me is that the system worked fine the other day, but now I have shavings which makes me think the pump has gone. So what happened here? When I filled fluid back up to proper level did I stir up crud that was already there? Did the pump just all of a sudden degrade at my new fluid? Did the fluid pour out because the pump was pumping but had no fluid to return?
  6. Great, that makes sense. Thank you for the help. I'll try to get them to final torque and see what happens.
  7. Def not, its dry above the head. Tractor was rebuilt in the 80's, and the guy I bought it from when I asked him about the small amount of dirt and oil on the side of the engine said "its just always done that its an old tractor". When I cleaned it last week, I just noticed it actually dripping instead of disappearing in the old dirt and grime.
  8. So on that second step, do you just go from loose to full torque on one pull? The manual says to do it in stages, just wondering. So if I get any that don't click the clicker I need a new hg?
  9. My 444 gas has some oil that seems to seep down the right side (plug side) of the engine during use. Previous owner said the oil that was in it was a year old, and when I drained it out it wasent milky. I replaced it with 15-40 Rotella T, and still have the seeping issue. My obvious thought is a head gasket, but I see no signs of it, no steam, no oil in coolant, no coolant in oil, no overheating etc, only the slight oil seepage. Its enough that a few drips will make it down to the oil pan in about an hour of running. Im hoping that when the engine was rebuilt in the 80's maybe the head bolts have just loosened up or something, and tightening them back up will solve the issue. Thoughts?
  10. So another update. I got a new tach cable and it now works, success. Also adjusted the brakes, they feel 1000% better now which I'm pretty excited about. I also checked the hydraulic fluid in the inspection window and the plate under the seat. Fluid looks clean, although a tad low. PTO noise I was referring to earlier I figured out goes completely away if I push the pedal all the way to the floor, and jiggle the PTO lever, so I'm assuming that something is out of adjustment and allowing the PTO to become partially engaged some of the time. By far the largest issue I'm facing right now is the leaking lift. Any heavier load on it it leaks down, then the draft control tries to bring it back up. How hard is that lift cylinder to rebuild?
  11. So how would I adjust the clutch? Only info I can find is on replacement. The noise went away yesterday, maybe will be back today who knows.
  12. Ok fiddled with a few more things today on the tractor. I noticed the tractor didnt idle very low, so I turned the idle down to where i feel like it should be (where my 140 is). Also found out why the tach doesent work, the cable is broken, so I ordered a new one and hope to have the tach working by the weekend. Also investigated the muffler that's on it to see if its baffled, and it is. I was hoping it was a straight muffler and buying one with baffles in it would help, but it looks like this one is about as quiet as it gets. Moved a round bale with it, it did well but I did notice the lift "jumped" some at full height. From what I understand this is the lift arms leaking down with a load and the draft control trying to keep up. Not a huge deal, but def will need to be addressed. How hard is the lift cylinder to rebuild? Finally, the noise in the transmission area I noticed yesterday still persists today. It goes away if I press down on the clutch down to stop the PTO. The noise does not increase with RPM, nor does it change dependant on the gear. It also does not change if I have the PTO in or out. Any ideas on what that could be?
  13. Ahh I didn't even think to check that. I don't remember hitting it but that certainly could have been the case.
  14. Day 1 with the tractor. Fixed the wobbly muffler, but discovered the pipe from the manifold through the hood isnt original and is allowing allot of noise and heat past. Also since the muffler isnt original, I plan to replace both with factory parts. The tractor is much louder than my IH 140, so I'd like to quiet it down a little. Installed the new Autolite 386 plugs, old plugs looked good but were very black (and dry). I'm hoping thats due to a dirty air filter and probably very little use in the Removed the factory front bumper and weights, tractor to me looks much better now. Although to protect the grill I'd like to get a weight bracket for the front. Then I ran the tractor for the first time longer than 5 minutes, around the farm and a short jaunt up the road in road gear. Tractor seems to run great, no hiccups or misses as I know. Steering is sweet. Took off the busted steering wheel cap and installed the one from my grandfathers 615 Combine I saved before selling it for parts several years ago. The things I did discover that need addressing today other than the muffler pipe and black plugs is after driving it for 15-20 minutes there seems to be a very slight continuous knocking noise near the rear of the tractor. It almost sounds like the pto rubbing on the top link end, but it wasent on. Also, the brakes are a little touchy and vague, plus one locks up once in a while during use. Last, the 3 point hitch leaks down pretty quick after shutting the tractor off, while running its fine but after shutdown it leaks down in about 10-15 minutes. All in all, a productive day. Plan tomorrow to hook it up to my 10ft batwing (yes I know its too large for the tractor), and put a load on the tractor to see how it does.
  15. Ok so I picked up the 1971 IH 444 instead of the 454 (from my other thread) since it was in better shape. Original owner of this one was an IH collector, 3700hrs, pretty original straight gas tractor. Factory remote kit and power steering. Has a few unoriginal items on it (seat), but mostly a great looking straight tractor. He mentioned that he put new plugs, wires, cap etc in a few months ago, but that he put in NGK instead of Autolite and that I may want to change it. I want to start off fresh with getting some maintenance items done. Air, oil and oil filter, new plugs, fix some lights, new tach cable, etc. I've got an owners manual on order as well. Also plan on finding an original seat, or something close. I also will be removing the front weight kit and bumper, as well as the fluid from the tires. I dont need all the weight on the tractor driving across my yard aerating it. My questions are regarding the oil and air filters. I have seen that my tractor is an oil bath air filter, but then I've also seen normal filters for sale listing 444 as the application. The oil filter is the canister type, is it worth converting to spin on or just keep the canister? I think spin on is $40, canister is a $8 filter. I'm also going to be using 15w40 Rotella or similar oil, is that appropriate? Anything I am missing to get it in preparation for the farm?