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About 65806

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  1. Welcome great story and tractor. Thanks for sharing.
  2. It's a beautiful pickup. Take it to some shows. I'm sure it will get the respect it deserves. If the show is full of a**holes go back home, get the 1468 and plow em under.
  3. If it was mine I would pull every drain plug. Hydraulic, oil, fuel and water. Use clean drain pans and look at anything unusual coming out Than replace every filter. Cut apart old ones to look for metal If all looks good in drain pans than refill everything. Next crack all the fuel lines at injectors and crank to run new fuel throughout the system. Check oil pressure as stated above. Next take the hose off air cleaner and have a board ready to choke off air if it runs wild. Next pull 5/8" plug off lower right side of MCV valve to let pump prime easier Start it up and see if oil come out 5/8 plug, shut it off when it does. Replace plug and restart. Work all functions to verify everything is working. Replace aircleaner hose. Rock and roll
  4. Have it welded back up. Should be easy fix for any decent machine shop. IMHO
  5. X2 on everything farmerfixem says. Since you have a engine hoist I would build a couple heavy angle iron brackets from frame to floor to hold the frame and use your hoist to roll the axle, radiator support and bolster completely away. That will give you much better access for pullers and such. Seals a piece of cake once you have access. I do have one question. I like the looks of your front tire/rim combination than the overly tall ones I have. Do you know the size tire/rim ?
  6. Perfect. Nice easy fix
  7. To check rod take the 4 bolts out that hold platform and raise it out of the way. Then you can see how the rod looks. If you go for the kit you need to get the platform all the way off and then remove the range cover. Its not really hard it just takes some patience to get the linkage under the cover to all line back up. There is a bushing that sets on the high/low shift fork that you need to be careful not to drop into the transmission. Let me know if your going this route and I can give you a more detailed explanation.
  8. Valve body can stay on. You can take the pin out on the front that hooks spool to lever linkage under the front seat behind metal cover than from the back you can unthread the cap with the hole and the tube as a unit. Than you can pull the whole spool out the back. Couple o rings in there that will need replaced but what is probably leaking is the super small o ring on the little piston that releases the detent. You have to buy the whole piston from CIH as o ring is not listed separate. Wasn't real expensive last time I got one. Once whole spool is out be careful that you don't loose the 3 balls in the tube for the detent. Good luck
  9. The adjusting rod under platform is probably bent from someone trying to force it with gear not lined up. You can replace rod and unjust it to overcenter and lock as long as your careful when using it or it will bend again. Or CIH has a kit that changes the way it locks and works good but requires removing platform and range trans cover to install a spring under the cover. I put the kit on my 806 and like the way it works. Now there is no doubt it's in park. Little over $100 for the kit.
  10. On the lower right side of the MCV valve there is a 5/8" plug you can remove, then start engine and see if it squirts oil out. Be ready to shut it off as it will come out pretty fast once it primes. You say it's making a "popping" sound. Does it sound like it's sucking air or is it a metallic sound? either way you should pull that plug and see if you can get some flow. Let me know what you find.
  11. You have to pull PTO to get to the draft arm u bolt that attaches it to tortion tube. the PTO is easy to remove . I would drain oil, remove PTO and take the tortion tube all the way out. That way you can clean the entire housing out good and re seal both sides. Do it right and it will last another 50 years.
  12. The relief valve I mentioned will only fix the weak lifting problem it has no effect on the coupler problem. A new set of female pioneer couplers is only about $30 and it will more than likely fix your issues. One "trick" I use is when unhooking I shut of tractor and work lever back and forth to relieve all pressure. Usually makes unhooking and rehooking effortless.
  13. My 806 wouldn't raise my disc either. I replaced the relief valve on right side of seat support casting with a 2,400lb valve for a 1066. Now it raises it at idle no problem
  14. This is correct for any carb that has a float bowl vented into the clean air chamber and will not run rich from dirty filter. However on a lot of older carbs the float bowl is vented to outside air and not clean air chamber. In this setup a dirty filter will cause a rich condition. I don't know where an 806 carb is vented.
  15. I posted that reply before Tony had pics uploaded. I agree that the bearings are no good.